System won't POST, fans start and stop continually

Hi there,
I am having an issue with a new system that I am building. When I turn on the power, the fans come on for about 5 seconds, then shut off, then on again, and off, indefinately. Nothing shows on the display. The hardware specs are as follows:

Power supply: Corsair HX1000W
Motherboard: Asus P7H55-M (integrated video)
CPU: Intel Core i5 650
RAM: Mushkin Enhanced Silverline Stiletto 8GB 2X4GB PC3-10666 DDR3-1333 9-9-9-24 Dual Channel Memory Kit

To troubleshoot, I plugged an Antec Neo ECO 620C power supply into the motherboard and it did a POST, so I thought it was the HX1000W at fault. So then I plugged the HX1000W into a Dell Vostro, and also a system with a P35-DS3L motherboard, and it worked on both of them! However, on both of these systems, there is only a 4 pin EATX 12v connector. The P7H55-M has an 8-pin EATX 12v connector.

Is the HX1000W faulty? Is there anything else I can test? I have a voltmeter.

There is a video of what is happening here:

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
4 answers Last reply
More about system post fans start stop continually
  1. Chances are if it powers with one and not the other, then the psu is to blame here(this kind of thing can happen).

    You can short the green in the atx connector to any black to start the psu and then check voltage, but at no load its not gonna be much of a test.

    I suggest testing in the Molex connectors
    Red to Black = 5
    Yellow to Black = 12

    Orange to Black is 3.3

    The cpu power connectors should be 12.

    Please take care when doing this as you don't want to damage the unit while testing.

    Corsairs own video of it.
  2. Thanks Nukemaster, that is a very handy trick with the paper clip! The power supply did power up with the paper clip, and the voltages on the pins seem ok. I'll contact Corsair tech support and see what they have to say.
  3. Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    If not, continue.

    I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

    Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

    I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps:
    Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.

    A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

    Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
    At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
  4. The problem is solved, well for me anyway. My supplier allowed me to exchange the HX1000W for a TX850W which works with this motherboard. Thanks for the input everyone!
Ask a new question

Read More

Power Supplies Components