New Build Wont Connect!

On thursday my new build was finally complete. She posted and installed windows with ease. A beautiful day.

Gigabyte P55A UD3 Mobo
Intel i5 760
2x2gb Crucial RAM
7200rpm samsung 1tb HDD
Gigabyte gtx 460 1gb GPU
Saesonic 520W PSU
Gigabyte GN-WP01GS wireless pci

Then, like a horrible nightmare, she stopped connecting to my apartment's broadband internet. They allow connection, and once registered, you even get to browse and download. It happened when Windows 7 installed its updates on shutdown. After the restart, no interwebz! Now I think this is a driver problem, due obviously to the update process, but I've downloaded and installed drivers for both LAN and wireless. Still nothing. The LAN jack shows orange light, but no green, and I have no idea what to do. I'm new to building and Windows 7, and have a terrible fear of having to send hardware back to newegg.

Technical Notes:
-Installed "current" drivers via
-Shows orange but no green
-Wireless registers networks but "limited connectivity" while laptop 2 feet away documents this post
-Windows updates suspected culprit
-Feelings about laptop similar to feelings about copier in "office space"
-Windows 7 virgin
-Utterly stumped

ANY help is greatly appreciated. I really don't want to have to tear out ALL my hair.

Thank you.
4 answers Last reply
More about build wont connect
  1. Work through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    If not, continue.

    I have tested the following beeps patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU. You do have a case speaker installed, right? If not, you really, really need one. If your case or motherboard didn't come with a system speaker, you can buy one here:

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU.

    Motherboard LED's mean very little. When on, all they are telling you is that the computer os plugged into a live power socket and the PSU is switched.

    Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps:
    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card. Silence or long single beeps indicate a problem with the memory.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
  2. If jsc's advice doesn't get you anywhere, try going to Network & Sharing Center and disable the Local Area Connection. Reboot. The computer should rediscover the connection.

    The fact that the jack is only showing the orange light suggests that either there isn't any data coming down the line. It's hard to say if that's on your end or the router without knowing more.

    Can you explain a little more about the setup?

    Your new build connects to broadband via:
    a) wireless
    b) wired connection - this is where you're seeing orange light, correct?
    c) both

    This net connection is via:
    a) a wireless/wired router that you set up and connects to your apartment's cable or something
    b) a wireless network run by the apartment complex
    c) a wired network run by the apartment complex

    Knowing those details will make it easier to figure out what's going on.
  3. A little more about the setup: The build can connect via both, the lan connection on the motherboard and a pci wireless card. Lan shows a flashing orange light, and wireless reports "limited connectivity".

    The net connection is via both (b) and (c). The complex runs the wireless, and there's a jack in the wall. Monday I intend to call "pavlov media," the complex service provider. This will connect me to someone in India who has all the answers. I hope. But they really are from india.
  4. It sounds like you're not getting an IP from the router, but you can reach it.

    Open a command prompt (Start button & just start typing command in the text box) and try "ipconfig /all" and if that doesn't show you as having an IP address, do the following two things in order:
    ipconfig /release
    ipconfig /renew

    That should get you a new IP address, assuming that they're not doing something mildly fancy like restricting via MAC address (it doesn't sound like they are).

    If that doesn't work, it might be time to start playing around with rolling back drivers and such, but really, neither Windows Update nor the drivers should have caused problems.
Ask a new question

Read More

Homebuilt Gigabyte New Build Systems