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Computer wont startup.

Last response: in Systems
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November 29, 2010 1:08:46 AM

ASRock M3A770DE AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard
G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
RAIDMAX HYBRID 2 RX-630SS 630W ATX12V V2.2/ EPS12V
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F4 HD322GJ/U 320GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Rosewill DESTROYER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2GHz Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor

Ok so after I built everything I tried turning on my PC and nothing happened after many unpluggings It finnaly turned on once after 20x tries. I took out some of the hardrive and video card cords. I tried again but it did not work ever again. Everytime I tried turning it on All I heard was a wierd noise from my PSU(Noise of it starting up but the fan wasnt moving and the LED light didnt turn blue). Also my case's power button got jammed inside for no apparent reason. And as I was hooking the front panel wires to the board I noticed that the Power LED chord was incorrect it was taking the 3rd spot of the power button. The LED had 3 spaces and 2 prongs.. with the MIDDLE empty. which meant it would take a spot of the Power button. Now For the Power Sw chord I put it where it said Power BTN and in ground. After many 20x tries I took out some chords of the hardrive and video card and it suddenly worked the CPU fan went on and the PSU fan worked, but it only worked that one time after trying to restart it some 20x times it never worked ever again. I am starting to think it is because of the case's power button might not be properly working, because it is jammed in and wont release, or could it be the PSU, or is it my wiring?

More about : computer wont startup

November 29, 2010 2:22:59 AM

help pls.
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a b B Homebuilt system
November 29, 2010 3:52:15 PM

May want to run to the an electronics store and grab an replacement / temporary switch to test with (should be cheap). Very well could be the switch. If not, I would look at memory before the power supply.
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a c 122 B Homebuilt system
November 30, 2010 2:10:44 AM

If the power switch is jammed on, the PSU will go into automatic shutdown just like it would if the system were on and you pressed and held the power switch in. One way of checking your power switch is to remove it and install your reset switch instead. Then try to boot with your reset switch.

Check your motherboard manual very closely when connecting the front panel leads. Right now, you do not need the power LED connected. You should see the fans come on and turn.

If the power switch is not your problem, you have more work to do. It's more important to get the system working. The power LED is a minor annoyance. After all, you can use the blue LED's on the front fan as a power indicator. (The Antec 900 case does not even have a power LED. The case uses the two blue LED front case fans as power indicators.)

Work through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.

I have tested the following beeps patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU. You do have a case speaker installed, right? If not, you really, really need one. If your case or motherboard didn't come with a system speaker, you can buy one here:
http://www.cwc-group.com/casp.html

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU.

Motherboard LED's mean very little. When on, all they are telling you is that the computer os plugged into a live power socket and the PSU is switched.

Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card. Silence or long single beeps indicate a problem with the memory.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
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