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Please help! my new build pc would not boot

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December 8, 2010 12:31:29 AM

I attempted to build my new pc yesterday but the pc would not boot after i push the power button of the case. I connected everything as told in the motherboard user guide. But there is no beep, no fan turn on, nothing. The only problem i can think of is that the graphic card does not fit all the way into the slot (because the expansion slot of the pc is a little bit too wide, the left side of the graphic card does not fit all the way in, but it's just off by like 0.1 or 0.2 cm, i still cant see any gold plate, which mean they are inside the slot) So will this be the reason my motherboard doesn't boot? or there might be other reason?

My motherboard is Asus p7p55d-e lx. my mother board has a 24 pin connector and a 8 pin connector (right on top of the cpu socket) First time, i used one cable connecting both connecting both connector, and it didn't work. so i use that cable to connect only the 24 pin connector while using another cable to connect the 8 pin connector, and it still didn't work. Also, i am not using the Jmicron IDE connector(because i don't think i can connect that with my harddrive/cd drive.)

Please help, i really need to get this pc working because i need to play cataclysm. (my old pc crushed 3 times in a row while attempting to install cataclysm :cry:  )

here are the pictures, maybe they will help explaining the situation.










This is my first build, so the cables are everywhere (some of them are fan controller cable) Sorry about that.

More about : build boot

December 8, 2010 12:40:16 AM

I'm using the same exact board for a build tomorrow! It's hard to see the 8 pin connector in your picture, but to confirm you need to connect both the 8 pin and 24 pin from the PSU into the motherboard.

Refer to this sticky for further trouble shooting
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-ste...


If your optical drive is not IDE, it gets connected with a SATA cable
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December 8, 2010 12:41:38 AM

NOTE: I didn't see all the pictures at first, but I can see the 8 pin more clearly now. It would also help listing your other components
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December 8, 2010 12:55:05 AM

component wise.

cpu:i5 760
motherboard: Asus p7p55d-e LX
memory: G skill 8Gb 2x4Gb
gpu: Gigabyte GTX480 SOC
Hard drive: Western digital 1TB
SSD: OCZ Vertex 2 60GB
CPU cooler : coolermaster v8
case: NZXT Phantom
PSU:Seasonic 750W
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December 8, 2010 1:00:14 AM

I bought the same Mobo, CPU, RAM and SSD... I can let you know tomorrow what happens with my build..see if everything is compatible.
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Best solution

December 8, 2010 1:04:53 AM

Don't take offense to this, did you flip the switch on the PSU before you pushed the power button on the case? I'm sure you did, but have to ask. Next, are you POSITIVE you connected all the front panel leads to the MB correctly?? Check that to be sure. It was THE issue in a recent post and the poor guy tried almost everything else before he figured it out on his own. Next, I think I am confused about the 24 pin and 8 pin situation. The 24 pin powers the MB and the 8 pin powers the CPU. They both must be securely snapped in place. There is a specific 8 pin CPU lead on the PSU, make sure your using it. I don't actually know if using a 6+2 PCIe lead in place of the 8 pin CPU lead would work or not. Maybe some one smarter than me can answer that. I don't know if its even possible to plug the wrong lead into the CPU power or not.
Does the PSU fan turn? Try unplugging the 8 pin cpu power then starting it too.
If you're just flat out dead with nothing going at all and no PSU fan it could possibly be the PSU. Oh, make sure PSU power cord is plugged in the PSU fully as well.
finally, when you do get it up and running you might take some time and work on some cable mgmt, cause DAMN!!! For such nice hardware, you've got cables running everywhere bro. Cable mgmt is the longest part of my build. That's after you get it started and there is probably a guide on this site somewhere that will help you sort them all out.
Post back what happens when you try all that and keep checking back here because there is a ton of wisdom on this site. Others will undoubtedly have ideas too.
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December 8, 2010 1:33:03 AM

First, thanks for all your suggestion.

I did flip the switch on the PSU.
I am certain that i connect all the front panel leads to the MB correctly (i have checked 3 times)
I am using a 8 pin cpu cable for the cpu connector
The PSU fan doesn't turn on. But the label on the PSU read "temperature sensor controlled fan"
The PSU power cord is indeed plugged in the PSU fully.
I will definitely spend some time on cable management once i get it running.
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December 8, 2010 2:21:46 AM

How much trouble would it be to exchange your PSU for a new one? Did you buy locally or online? Is that an easy option for you?
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December 8, 2010 11:00:10 AM

I bought all my part from newegg. So returning is gonna take a week or so........ How would i know if my psu is functional?
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December 9, 2010 12:01:00 AM

There is something about a Paper Clip and a way to jump a circuit. I have not tried it and don't recommend you do unless you can carefully follow the written instructions listed somewhere on this site. Lets see if we can find them.
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December 9, 2010 12:14:51 AM

Here is a very helpful link, look it over. Be careful if you decide to try to short the PSU.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-ste...

Here is the text to trouble shooting a PSU. The paper clip thing freaks me out. I wouldn't do it.
If you suspect the PSU is causing your problems, below are some suggestions by jsc for troubleshooting the PSU. Proceed with caution. I will not be held responsible if you get shocked or fry components.


"The best way to check the PSU is to swap it with a known good PSU of similar capacity. Brand new, out of the box, untested does not count as a known good PSU. PSU's, like all components, can be DOA.


Next best thing is to get (or borrow) a digital multimeter and check the PSU.


Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.


The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.


You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FW [...] tube_gdata


This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU. You can carefully probe the pins from the back of the main power connector."



Here's a link to jsc's breadboarding thread:


http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/foru [...] _13_0.html
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December 16, 2010 5:02:23 PM

I finally figured out that i had a dead psu. I buy a new one and my pc work flawlessly now. Thank you for all the help you provided.
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December 16, 2010 5:02:57 PM

Best answer selected by pureamdfanboy.
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