I'm having a serious issue with a new build and before I completely put blame to the PSU, I would appreciate a bit of feedback before sending it back to newegg.

My system:

Qty. Product Description Savings Total Price

LITE-ON 24X DVD Writer Black SATA Model iHAS-324-98B
Item #: N82E16827106334
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy


Rosewill Smart One ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, Black interior, comes with three Fans-1x Front Blue LED 120mm Fan, 1x Rear ...
Item #: N82E16811147120
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
-$5.00 Instant


SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD502HJ 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Item #: N82E16822152181
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy


GIGABYTE GA-880GMA-UD2H AM3 AMD 880G SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
Item #: N82E16813128445
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy


Rosewill RV2-500 500 W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V SLI Ready Power Supply
Item #: N82E16817182038
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
-$10.00 Instant


G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9S-4GBRL
Item #: N82E16820231310
Return Policy: Memory Standard Return Policy


AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2GHz Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor HDZ955FBGMBOX
Item #: N82E16819103808
Return Policy: CPU Replacement Only Return Policy

My problem:

I've got everything hooked up and am getting no power. I've gone through the FAQ here and Troubleshooting forum. I tried another old 300W PSU but it's old and doesn't have but 1 SATA connection. I connected the optical drive and the fans came on and the computer booted into bios. That would normally be enough for me to say it's definitely the PSU but when I switch the reset/power button connectors, the fans turn about half a resolution and light up for a split second. Then nothing--even if I press the power button again. If I switch the button connectors again, it will do it again.

Again, any feedback is greatly appreciated.
6 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about tomshardware
  1. You cant really switch the power/reset switches, can you? reset is momentary contact, so, would cause what you are seeing, wouldnt it?

    stick with 300 watt for troubleshooting, remove everything but one mem stick, (dont even need video card, mb should at least beep to tell you it has no video card) connect power switch normally, and try again
  2. the reset switch wouldn't cause the power to turn on and then off immediately--the reset switch should cause the power to turn off and then back on immediately.

    And it does it even when the switches are correct. I only changed the connections to test the power button.
  3. Best answer
    Here is a simple test to check your PSU:
  4. You said you wnet through the trouble shooting did you use this
    CREDIT TO (b)jsc

    I also wanted to add some suggestions that user jsc often posts. This is a direct quote from him:

    "Pull everything except the CPU and HSF. Boot. You should hear a series of long single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence here indicates, in probable order, a bad PSU, motherboard, or CPU - or a bad installation where something is shorting and shutting down the PSU.

    To eliminate the possiblility of a bad installation where something is shorting and shutting down the PSU, you will need to pull the motherboard out of the case and reassemble the components on an insulated surface. This is called "breadboarding" - from the 1920's homebrew radio days. I always breadboard a new or recycled build. It lets me test components before I go through the trouble of installing them in a case.

    If you get the long beeps, add a stick of RAM. Boot. The beep pattern should change to one long and two or three short beeps. Silence indicates that the RAM is shorting out the PSU (very rare). Long single beeps indicates that the BIOS does not recognize the presence of the RAM.

    If you get the one long and two or three short beeps, test the rest of the RAM. If good, install the video card and any needed power cables and plug in the monitor. If the video card is good, the system should successfully POST (one short beep, usually) and you will see the boot screen and messages.

    Note - an inadequate PSU will cause a failure here or any step later.
    Note - you do not need drives or a keyboard to successfully POST (generally a single short beep).

    If you successfully POST, start plugging in the rest of the components, one at a time."

    If you suspect the PSU is causing your problems, below are some suggestions by jsc for troubleshooting the PSU. Proceed with caution. I will not be held responsible if you get shocked or fry components.

    "The best way to check the PSU is to swap it with a known good PSU of similar capacity. Brand new, out of the box, untested does not count as a known good PSU. PSU's, like all components, can be DOA.

    Next best thing is to get (or borrow) a digital multimeter and check the PSU.

    Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires. [...] tube_gdata

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU. You can carefully probe the pins from the back of the main power connector."

    Here's a link to jsc's breadboarding thread: [...] _13_0.html

    I believe your PSU maybe be the issue but you should run through the above before going through an RMA process and the long delays associated with that. Unless you bought locally.
    I would suggest, if it is the PSU that you consider buying a major brand like Antec, Corsair, Seasonic even Cooler Master rather than replacing with another Rosewill. I too have used Rosewill. In fact my son's PC is running one now, his sytem is old and in needs to be replaced. 7750 BE on a 780g MB with a 4850. I believe they have a much higher DOA and failure rate than the major brands and a PSU is something that can take other components with it when it goes.
    Good luck and be very careful if you decide to try to short the PSU.
    One final thing, are you 100% certain the front panel switches are in the right places?
  5. I just tried the paperclip test and it does the exact same thing. I'm RMA'ing it and getting an OCZ. Thanks all!
  6. Best answer selected by excavator.
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