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How do I connect a cold cathode to a switch ?

Hello,

I've got a new build coming up, and this will be the first time I'll be using Cold Cathodes. More specifically, these ones :

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=16209
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=17288

The thing is, I'd like to connect them to a 12v/off/5v fan controller :

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=39050

However, I do not know how to make it fit with the 3-pin connector of the fan controller. Also, how do I get rid of the included switch (on the PCI bracket) ?

Here is what I have planned for each of the channels of the FC (from left to right)

Channel 1 : Pump #1
Channel 2 : Blue Cathode
Channel 3 : 16 Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 + 4 Cooler Master Megaflow Red LED
Channel 4 : UV Cathode
Channel 5 : Pump #2

Thanks for the help,
al360ex
10 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about connect cold cathode switch
  1. Oh, and if you want more info about the components of my next build, you can check this thread : http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/265338-29-radiators-time-building-complete-loop

    Thanks again !
  2. Best answer
    Ok first off, you should NOT connect the cathodes to anything that will feed then 5 volts.

    If you connect them to a fan controller with 12 off and 5, cut the 5 volt side of the power cable if you can(use an extension cable and cut red).

    If you try to run a 12 volt cathode on 5 volts, its little transformer box will overheat and get damaged by trying to use such a low voltage(same thing as running a CFL on a dimmer, its just bad).

    Pumps are not that happy undervolted most of the time either, but it may not hurt anything but cooling power.

    As for the fans, hell yeah, check the limits(if any for a 12, off, 5 volt controller) to make sure you do not overload any channels. but i recommend finding a way to disable the 5 volts on the pump and cathodes.

    Getting rid of the switch on the back is nothing more then a matter of crossing the 2 wires that go back there and soldering + taping them up. To connect the current connectors to a fan controller you have to make a cable of your own, i do not think they sell them.
  3. nukemaster said:
    To connect the current connectors to a fan controller you have to make a cable of your own, i do not think they sell them.


    Would this cable be okay to convert the 4-pin female molex from the cathode ? : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=350

    Also, for the molex that plugs directly into the fan controller, if I use an extension cable like this one and remove the 5v wire, will I be okay ? Or does the fan controller outputs its 5v by using a resistance on the 12v wire ?

    Thanks for the help !
  4. The wire to covert the 3 pin fan header to a 4 pin molex header will work. Its more like 2 pin(the yellow is for speed sensing). If you do this, do not plug anything else in as this new 4 pin cable will only have 12 volt lines and no 5 volt lines. So it will not run lets say a hard drive.

    The 4 pin molex extension is just what you need(look for a cheaper one), but remember when you cut the 5 volt line, no fans on that controller will be able to run at 5 volts either. If the controller uses Resistance or just routes the 12 and 5 volt power will vary from company to company. You will have to look into this for sure.

    Example. ZM MFC1

    4 full range dials that use the 12 volt power and some form of resistance or voltage regulation and 2 switches that just tap 12 and 5. the 12 and 5 have no hardware, they are just a switch and thereby cutting the 5 volt line on this unit, gives you 12 off and off yet the other 4 full range dials still work.

    http://www.silentpcreview.com/article86-page1.html
  5. nukemaster said:
    Pumps are not that happy undervolted most of the time either, but it may not hurt anything but cooling power.

    As for the fans, hell yeah, check the limits(if any for a 12, off, 5 volt controller) to make sure you do not overload any channels. but i recommend finding a way to disable the 5 volts on the pump and cathodes.


    For the pumps, I'll be using two Koolance PMP-450s, each coupled with a CTR-SPD24 24V Pump Controller.

    I plan on keeping these controllers at their maximum setting...so if I use the 5v switch, my pump will actually run at 10v. And I know it works well with that voltage.

    I think I'll use both of them at that setting when my system is idling, and switch them to 12v (24v, in fact) when under load. I could even use one at 12v and the other one at 5v. I'll see what works best once I've assembled my system.

    As for the fans...the Gentle Typhoon uses less than 1 watt each (so a total of 16w) and the Megaflow uses 3.36w each at 12v. That gives my a total of 28-29w.
    And I also know from reviews that both these fans work very well at 5v.
  6. nukemaster said:
    The 4 pin molex extension is just what you need(look for a cheaper one), but remember when you cut the 5 volt line, no fans on that controller will be able to run at 5 volts either. If the controller uses Resistance or just routes the 12 and 5 volt power will vary from company to company. You will have to look into this for sure.


    Okay, so I might have to modify the switch itself...

    From this picture, are you able to determine which wire would be the 5v one, so that I could remove it ?
  7. I would need to see the board it self, they are generally marked as well. what controller is that?
  8. nukemaster said:
    Example. ZM MFC1
    4 full range dials that use the 12 volt power and some form of resistance or voltage regulation and 2 switches that just tap 12 and 5. the 12 and 5 have no hardware, they are just a switch and thereby cutting the 5 volt line on this unit, gives you 12 off and off yet the other 4 full range dials still work.


    Yeah, I saw this fan controller, but it wouldn't match my case well (Haf X), and I didn't like its layout and color. Plus, the inscriptions on it are really ugly.
  9. nukemaster said:
    I would need to see the board it self, they are generally marked as well. what controller is that?


    It is the Lamptron Fan-Atic
  10. Best answer selected by al360ex.
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