Lets play WHAT JUST FRIED!!!

jediomed

Distinguished
Dec 16, 2010
9
0
18,510
First time in 15 years I buy a system instead of building one myself and look three months later its dead. No boot no POST nothing. Just a mocking yellow light on the mobo indicating something has power and nothing else. Tried booting off the board to see if the button was gone, nothing. Tried taking out the second video card, nothing. System specs follow:

CAS: Apevia X-Plorer 2 Mid-Tower Case w/ Side-Panel Window and MultiMeter Display (Green Color with 200mm UV Green LED Fan)
CASUPGRADE: None
CD: Samsung SH-B123L 12X BLU-RAY Player & DVDRW Combo [+38] (BLACK COLOR)
CD2: None
CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-950 3.06 GHz 8M Intel Smart Cache LGA1366
CS_FAN: Default case fans
FA_HDD: None
FAN: Asetek 510LC Liquid Cooling System 120MM Radiator & Fan (Enhanced Cooling Performance + Extreme Silent at 20dBA)
FLASHMEDIA: INTERNAL 12in1 Flash Media Reader/Writer (BLACK COLOR)
FLOPPY: None
FREEBIE_CU1: Civilization V Full Version Game
GLASSES: None
HDD: 500GB SATA-II 3.0Gb/s 16MB Cache 7200RPM HDD [-41] (Single Hard Drive)
HDD2: None
HDDPRO: Free 30 GB Kingston 2.5 inch SATA Gaming MLC SSD with Hyper-X memory purchase (Single Hard Drive)
IEEE_CARD: None
KEYBOARD: Xtreme Gear (Black Color) Multimedia/Internet USB Keyboard
LANSURGE: None
MB_ADDON: None
MEMORY: 6GB (2GBx3) DDR3/1600MHz Triple Channel Memory Module (Kingston HyperX [+58])
MONITOR: None
MONITOR2: None
MONITOR3: None
MOTHERBOARD: (3-Way SLI Support) MSI X58A-GD65 Intel X58 Chipset SLI/CrossFireX Triple-Channel DDR3 ATX Mainboard w/ 7.1 Audio, eSATA, GbLAN, USB3.0, SATA-III, RAID, IEEE1394a, 3 Gen2 PCIe, 2 PCIe X1 & 2 PCI (All Venom OC Certified) [-30]
MOUSE: XtremeGear Optical USB 3 Buttons Gaming Mouse
MULTIVIEW: Non-SLI/Non-CrossFireX Mode Supports Multiple Monitors
NETWORK: Onboard Gigabit LAN Network
OS: Microsoft® Windows® 7 Home Premium [+104] (64-bit Edition)
OVERCLOCK: Pro OC (Performance Overclock 10% or more) [+19]
POWERSUPPLY: 800 Watts - XtremeGear Gaming Power Supply - Quad SLI Ready
PRINTER: None
PRINTER_CABLE: None
RUSH: NO; READY TO SHIP IN 5~10 BUSINESS DAYS
SERVICE: STANDARD WARRANTY: 3-YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY PLUS LIFE-TIME TECHNICAL SUPPORT
SOUND: Creative Labs SB X-Fi Xtreme Audio 24-BIT PCI Sound Card [+48]
SPEAKERS: None
TEMP: None
TVRC: None
USB: Built-in USB 2.0 Ports
USBFLASH: None
USBHD: None
USBX: None
VC_PHYSX: None
VIDEO: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 465 1GB 16X PCIe Video Card (Major Brand Powered by NVIDIA)
VIDEO2: None
VIDEO3: None
WNC: None
 
Solution
An XtremeGear 800W unit is in no way capable of handlign dual GTX 465s, look at their 700W unit which has 38A(or 40A depending on if you do it based off the stated wattage or current) on its 12V rails, that would be good for a 550W unit, but its crap for a 700W unit, the 800W unit likely only has about 45A and is of certainly shoddy quality, im betting it blew.


Quick way to check, take a fan and your PSU out of your case and test it as shown in this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4

If the fan doesnt spin, or spins very slowly then your 12V rail(which powers most of the system) is shot. The reason that some of it can go but not the whole thing is because the 5VSB rail which powers the motherboard when off is...

jediomed

Distinguished
Dec 16, 2010
9
0
18,510
Agreed. I don't have a volt meter sadly. It should be noted I just added the second GTX and got about an hour of run time before the explosion. Before I run out and buy a new PSU, the yellow light on the mobo bothers me though. If it was the PSU was dead wouldn't that light be off too?
 


I also wonder about the warranty..
You could lose a circuit or two in the PSU and still have power elsewhere. Not common I'll wager, but still possible. I definitely would suspect the PSU, especially since you just added a second video card and poof!

Just contact the manufacturer for an RMA. If its under warranty it is their job to figure out what happened.
 
An XtremeGear 800W unit is in no way capable of handlign dual GTX 465s, look at their 700W unit which has 38A(or 40A depending on if you do it based off the stated wattage or current) on its 12V rails, that would be good for a 550W unit, but its crap for a 700W unit, the 800W unit likely only has about 45A and is of certainly shoddy quality, im betting it blew.


Quick way to check, take a fan and your PSU out of your case and test it as shown in this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4

If the fan doesnt spin, or spins very slowly then your 12V rail(which powers most of the system) is shot. The reason that some of it can go but not the whole thing is because the 5VSB rail which powers the motherboard when off is independent of everything else, it also doesnt look like a DC-DC based on the load table so the 5V 3.3V and 12V are all generated separately unlike modern units where the 5V and 3.3V are derived from the 12V rail.
 
Solution