Pavilion p6115y wont power on

Hello,

I am having issues with a less than 2 year old HP Pavilion p6115y PC. It started with it not powering on unless I would unplug it for a few seconds. At this point, it does not power on at all.


I tried a power drain. I opened the case, disconnected the battery and held the power button down for 40 seconds, plugging it back in to no avail.

I reseated all of the Ram. No difference.

I disconnected the Media Card reader, no difference.

The power cord is working as well the power outlet.

When a plug is in the back of the computer, there is the green light on. Pushing the power button starts the fans for about a second, the light on the power button comes on, but quickly goes off.

I think I pretty much covered everything I tried. I made sure the red power switch ont he back was set to 115v. I am just not sure where to go from here.

Any help would be appreciated.
7 answers Last reply
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  1. My first suspicion is the Power Supply. The 300w cheapo that came with your PC is the bare minimum for it's needs.

    Are you reasonably mechanically inclined? If so, disconnecting the PSU, and replacing it with a new one is an easy task. I can walk you through it if you need.
    Here is a quality, low-priced 380 watt PSU from Antec. If that is not it, well, you have a nice PSU to start a build with, or you can return it.
  2. Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-posting-boot-problems
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    If not, continue.
    The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

    I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboarding

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

    Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

    I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps:
    Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=youtube_gdata

    A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

    Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
    At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
  3. Noworldorder said:
    My first suspicion is the Power Supply. The 300w cheapo that came with your PC is the bare minimum for it's needs.

    Are you reasonably mechanically inclined? If so, disconnecting the PSU, and replacing it with a new one is an easy task. I can walk you through it if you need.
    Here is a quality, low-priced 380 watt PSU from Antec. If that is not it, well, you have a nice PSU to start a build with, or you can return it.


    Thank you for the link and the offer to walk me through it. I will follow the troubleshooting located in this thread and then get back with you. I certainly feel I have enough knowledge to replace the power supply with some assistance.
  4. jsc said:
    Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-posting-boot-problems
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    If not, continue.
    The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

    I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboarding

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

    Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

    I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps:
    Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=youtube_gdata

    A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

    Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
    At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.


    Thanks for the links. I will work through the troubleshooting tips. I don't like to half-ass tasks nor do I like to waste money, so I'd love to get the issue figured out.

    I did come across something on the web that mentioned HP had extended their standard 12 month warranty on certain computers to 24 months for a known hardware issue. Any idea what that issue was about? Again, thanks a lot for the assistance.
  5. boilermaker26 said:
    I did come across something on the web that mentioned HP had extended their standard 12 month warranty on certain computers to 24 months for a known hardware issue. Any idea what that issue was about? Again, thanks a lot for the assistance.
    It had to do with their 802.11g card being defective on laptops. That is the only HP recall that I am aware of.
  6. Noworldorder said:
    It had to do with their 802.11g card being defective on laptops. That is the only HP recall that I am aware of.


    Thanks again. I pulled out the power supply and did the little trick with a paper clip and the green/black wires. The power source still showed a light, but the PSU fan did not seem to come on. It was disconnected from the computer fans, so I was unable to see whether or not it powered any of the computer's fans.

    Is adding a new PSU as simple as disconnecting the old one and connecting the new one? Do all the necessary wires come with the PSU, or is that something that is added?
  7. When testing a PSU, please remember to plug a fan into the Molex connector because most PSUs will not power on unless they sense a load.

    Yes, replacing the PSU is merely a matter of disconnecting the old one and plugging in a new one. It comes with everything you need. In your situation, you will end up with an excess of cables, but that's fine; a good unit will last so long as to usually be usable in your next system. Which is one of the reasons I encourage my clients to let me install a 450-500w Corsair, Antec, Seasonic, Silverstone 80 Plus Gold PSU. Overkill in some cases, but the extra $50 is often recouped if they upgrade components later on.
    Blow the system out with compressed air every year or so (I clean mine every few months) and they may last for decades.
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