1800$ to spend on gaming rig (Updated)

Alright, I'm finally done, please critique.

Cpu: Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K

Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 PRO LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Video Card: EVGA 012-P3-1570-AR GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

Monitor(s): ASUS VH236H Black 23" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen Full HD 1080P LCD Monitor

Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

Ram: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-8GBXH

PSU: CORSAIR TX Series CMPSU-950TX 950W ATX12V v2.3/EPS12V v2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

Case: COOLER MASTER HAF 922 RC-922M-KKN1-GP Black Steel + Plastic and Mesh Bezel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

CPU Fan: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler

TIM: MASSCOOL G751 Shin-Etsu Thermal Interface Material

OD: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM

Mouse: Razer Naga

Keyboard: Cheap POS
27 answers Last reply
More about 1800 spend gaming updated
  1. Also would like it to be future proof a bit if possible. I'd like SLI, so if I can do that with 1400$ great, but I can always get a better system now, and in a week or two have the money for a 2nd video card. I don't really care much about the optical drive, I rarely burn things or install via them anyways. Sound cards I don't care much about either.
  2. Idea here was to build for future giving you a hi air flow case, PSU big enough for a 2nd GFX card and other stuff to be added "Later". Keep in mind, this build is just about "obsolete" in the sense that the 1155 chipset is the new boy on the block and the 1156 is being retired. While the build holds and is good for cost estimation, I'd hold off and get a Asus Sabertooth P67 board w/ a Core i5-2500K which should still keep you below the $1400mark. Check out the MoBo EFI BIOS video here:


    Case - $90 - Coolermaster HAF-922 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119197
    Case Fans - Later - CM Red 200 mm http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103072
    PSU - $110 - XFX Black Edition 850 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207001
    MoBo - $120 - ASUS P7P55D-E LX http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131634
    CPU - $209 - Intel i5-760 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115067
    Cooler - $40 - Scythe SCMG 2100 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185142
    TIM - $5 - Shin Etsu http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150080
    RAM - $70 - 2 x 2GB Mushkin CAS 7 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226103
    GFX - $230 - Asus GTX 470 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121372
    GFX - Later - Same
    HD - $55 - Seagate 7200.12 1TB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148433
    SSD - Later - OCZ Vertex 2 3.5" 120GB http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227590
    DVD Writer - $19 - ASUS 24X DVD Writer http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204
    OS - $100 - Win 7-64 Home OEM http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116754
    Monitor - $180 - ASUS VH242H1920x1080 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236052
    Keyboard - $67 - Logitech G110 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126087
    Mouse - $45 - Logitech MX-518 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104318

    Cost $1,340 w/o any combo discounts

    Sound, LAN, etc are all "on board". If it were me, I'd up my budget about $70 and spring for a 570 GTX

    See comparisons with 480, 6870, etc here:

  3. No, you have to wait a few more days for SB. It will be the best value by far for your budget.

    i5 2500K ~$220
    P67 board ~ $150
    4 or 8GB RAM (DDR3 1600 CL9 is fine) ~$110
    AMD Radeon 6870 ~$240

    That leaves you lot's of room for the rest actually. You might even be able to fit in an i7 2600K for around $320.
  4. Thanks for the replies, one thing I don't need is an OS, so that saves me 100$. Also, I heard about these SSD drives a couple months ago, I guess those are just for playing games from?

    I also heard they don't last very long, and you can't or shouldn't defrag them? True or false? Don't know much about them.
  5. An SSD can improve load times in Windows and games, but it comes at a price. $215 for 120GB:
    Not a priority and most of your games/data must still go onto a platter drive. If your budget didn't include the monitor or was a bit more it might be a good time to get an SSD.

    Win 7 will manage an SSD well and it will not need too much maintenance. There is no sense in "defragging" an SSD as it has no platter. You have to watch it though and make sure it doesn't fill up.
  6. Proximon said:
    No, you have to wait a few more days for SB. It will be the best value by far for your budget.

    i5 2500K ~$220
    P67 board ~ $150
    4 or 8GB RAM (DDR3 1600 CL9 is fine) ~$110
    AMD Radeon 6870 ~$240

    That leaves you lot's of room for the rest actually. You might even be able to fit in an i7 2600K for around $320.

    I was thinking Sandy Bridges would be out in a week or two...but if it's just a couple days I suppose I could wait, I assume that's a "Sandy Bridge" Recommended list for the CPU/ Mobo/Ram/Video card with my budget?
  7. Yes. It's certainly Monday but maybe as early as Friday for the retail release.
  8. SSDs are primarily used for your OS and other commonly used applications like a web browser. I'd recommend that you DON'T store games on an SSD. It will fill up quickly and actual fps won't increase significantly in gaming, you'll just see reduced load times.

    Whoever said save a bit for GTX570 and Sandy Bridge, +1. Go for the i5-2500k. You'll get all the ghz you need out of that bad boy.

    With a 1080p monitor (like the one suggested by JackNaylorPE), you shouldn't see framerates below 60 at full settings, moderate AA, AND v-synced.
  9. If you get a 90gb+ ssd put your OS+browser, heavily used programs+ favorite game, you can store 1 or 2 games just put the games you don't use too often on a platter drive
  10. I really like my case, the NZXT M59. Its one of the best out there around only $50. Lots of room and good airflow. Tool less design too! Used it to build my first. Typing this with it right now. Great system.
  11. Quote:
    No, you have to wait a few more days for SB. It will be the best value by far for your budget.

    i5 2500K ~$220
    P67 board ~ $150
    4 or 8GB RAM (DDR3 1600 CL9 is fine) ~$110
    AMD Radeon 6870 ~$240

    you mind rounding that out? (cooling, psu, etc.) looking to spend around the same, but don't need monitor/keys/mouse/os.

  12. @csjesse Don't Hijack Threads, it is not appropriate according to the forum rules and it's annoying post your own thread and if it isn't as active just wait it will get looked at eventually in 2 days at most
  13. joelmartinez said:
    @csjesse Don't Hijack Threads, it is not appropriate according to the forum rules and it's annoying post your own thread and if it isn't as active just wait it will get looked at eventually in 2 days at most

    what i requested would benefit the OP since it's built to his budget, i don't see how i hijacked the thread.
  14. Definition of Hijacking: To seize control of some process to achieve a purpose other than its originally intended one.

    It's hijacking if you want a different purpose than the OP which you do you want to build one system and he wants to build another if you want Proximon to elaborate on his build it is okay to ask him to do so but only in order to help the OP not yourself, if someone starts a thread they want to be the subject of it not them and some other guy who wants something similar, start your own thread or instead of asking Proximon to elaborate for your own purposes ask him to elaborate for the OP's purpose, and then use that info for your build when you check it by starting a new thread.

    Basically what I'm trying to convey is that the question set by the OP should be the one answered and not any other similar questions by you or other people. Now let's get back on track that was a long rant.
  15. /Bump, I got a few things so far, need help finishing, see OP.
  16. I heard there was a performance difference with new ram "designed for new sandy bridge cpus" compared to some of the older but still compatible ram, but I've only heard that, this has me doubting on what to get. Also wondering if I should get 8gb or 4gb of ram, I know 4gb is enough, I'm just wondering if within the next year will there be a reason for me to need/want 8gb.

    For the case, I think the mobo can support some kind of front panel thing for usb or e-sata (Can't remember exactly), was wondering if I should take advantage of that feature or not.

    For the PSU from what friends have told me I'm going to need 900-1000w, especially if I'm going to throw another 570 video card in it later on, + a ssd, + another hd, + whatever else may come on down the road, but I've seen quite a lot of people on various forums saying a good 850w will suffice. Never seen anyone suggest something lower than 600w though for what I'm planning on building.

    I've seen that cpu cooler posted a couple times, seems solid, but I also seen people call it old and out dated and there's better and newer things out now for the same price or lower.

    I looked up the new logitech keyboard with the mini lcd display and unless I missed something It didn't impress me much, might just stick to a piece of crap. I'm all about what's going to actually make me a better gamer, not superficial fluff.

    Reading over some of the reviews on the hard drive I'm getting kind of scared me as well, a lot of people saying it didn't pass such and such test, died within a month, or just was flat out not working when they first got it, but...I went ahead and took the risk since there were more positive reviews than negative ones + it seems like it has the speed + space that I need for the price.
  17. It's for USB 3.0, and that might be handy to get up front.

    HAF X has those but it's pricey

    This Lian Li is a bit less

    Perhaps others have some better choices.

    I misread your OP about the PSU... missed the word "another" actually. Two 570s will need a bit more. A 750W would be adequate but 850W would not be too overkill.

    If you don't want modular (It won't help you game better) then Corsair 850TX will be fine:

    On the keyboard, backlit keys and programmable keys are the reason to get the board I linked. If those aren't needed, just be sure to get a wired board not wireless.
  18. Any other cases like the HAF X with the front panel usb 3.0 thing but for less?
  19. Think I'm finished. Later on I'll add an ssd and another vid card.
  20. If it fits your budget I'm OK with it. I suspect the TIM you are using is probably not as good as you think though.
  21. Proximon said:
    If it fits your budget I'm OK with it. I suspect the TIM you are using is probably not as good as you think though.

    Really? I read quite a lot of forums and reviews and it was always popping up everywhere I read. It's about 1800$ exactly, which is a bit more than I wanted to spend but I splurged a little, what else would you have done different with 1800$? The things I went back and forth on A LOT was the case, the ram, and the PSU.

    I can order some new TIM right now though, there pretty cheap...if you got a good reason why it's not optimal.

    Just noticed I ordered the same CPU fan as you did, so if it comes with a better paste I can just use that instead of the shin.
  22. "Suspect" meant just that this time, although it was maybe not the best choice of words as usually when people say that they mean something a it stronger.

    The only Shin-Etsu TIM I'm really familiar with was good in it's time but expensive and very hard to apply. That's why I say suspect... I think you might have this confused with that. So I'll go look.

    Well, this is the first to come up:
    This is a review that is OVER 4 YEARS OLD and it shows this Shin-Etsu in last place of the 4. We don't even recommend AS5 anymore because there are better products, although it is still good.

    This is a more recent review that gives it very high marks:
    Although they used the actual paste and NOT the paste being re-sold by Mascool. It's a very strong review though with excellent testing procedures. Perhaps the paste has improved over time? This is possible, or perhaps it's just variation in batches.

    Perhaps the Shin-Etsu you have ordered is good. It's not being sold by them though and so it's hard to say. Mascool does not have a great rep in other areas and I find it hard to trust them here.



    Personally I have tried many but currently using OCZ freeze:

    Some actual Sin-Etsu G751:

    I don't think the included paste is as good as any that have been mentioned. It's best left to lower budgets. Then again, the Hyper 212+ is primarily a very good bargain. Great bang for the buck but not the best cooler. It's just that you have to spend quite a bit more for the very best. According to Frostytech
    This is the very best currently

    We could be talking 3-4C difference, which is significant... is it worth the extra cost? I can't answer that for you. Depends on how high your overclocking expectations are.

    Pretty sure for that case I would get the Corsair 850HX. Well what I would get would be the AX850, but that's me and not what I would recommend to you. The case is a bit smaller (not small just a bit more cramped than the larger ones) and you won't like the mass of cables that come with the 950TX. The 850HX is a better PSU with modular cables. It's also more efficient and will save on power bills a small amount.
  23. The last of my order is getting here today. The only thing I'm wondering now is what to do with the one hard drive I got until I get a ssd. Should I partition it and make a space for windows, and another space for games, or will that slow performance or be too tough on the drive?

    I don't like partitioning drives, I've always had at least 2 drives so I can have one for windows and another for games/storage, this will be my first time with just one hard drive.

    I have my eye on one of these ssd's http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100008120%20600038519&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&CompareItemList=636|20-148-358^20-148-358-TS%2C20-148-357^20-148-357-02%23

    Not sure what the difference is except for the "form factor" and I'm not even sure what exactly that means...

    Wondering if I should just get another Caviar black instead of a SSD, and just do RAID0.

    Only other concerns I have is with the mobo, I've heard there was a few problems with them and ram, might have to switch some jumpers around to get it to work, and I think I read someone having a problem with the 2nd PCI-E slot not running at full speed, which I won't know about until weeks from now when I have enough to get a 2nd card....I'm betting the only thing that really irritates me is:

    1) Issues with the ram.
    2) Installing the fan/heatsink.
    3) Figuring out how to overclock safely when I get to the point that I want to try.
    4) Hoping my Caviar Black drive or anything else doesn't need to be RMA'd.

    Also wondering if the power outlets in my room will be enough to power 2 computers without any problems, and how I want to go about plugging them in.
  24. The two SSDs are different sizes. One is 1.8" while the other is 2.5". Mounting either will require an appropriate bay or adapter.... or just some velcro tape. Remember they have no moving parts and don't need to be screwed down like mechanical drives.

    I would not personally buy an SSD that small. At the present the real values are at 120GB and 160GB. That's enough space for a few games with long load times, like Crysis.

    The RAID 0 option is OK as long as you keep backups. Won't be as fast as SSD of course.

    Overclocking will be simply a matter of increasing the multiplier. Very easy.

    I have a small write-up on installing HDT-type coolers that is linked in one of my guides. It's by no means gospel but worth a read.
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