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stable reliable work pc

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January 14, 2011 12:22:37 AM

Hello
I need to build a reliable and stable working machine (but also some other uses)

Approximate Purchase Date: next month or so

Budget Range: 100.000yen about 1000USD

System Usage from Most to Least Important: mainly work 3d modeling, cad and so on, secondary use might be some games and music editing

Parts Not Required: OS (win7) and Monitor I will see later, already got speakers.
But sound-card will be decided later, maybe external, so there should be room for it or good connection.

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: anything with free delivery and no credit card needed

Country of Origin: currently Japan

Parts Preferences: whatever but solid, durable, stable and reliable

Overclocking: no

SLI or Crossfire: no

Monitor Resolution: don't have monitor yet

Additional Comments: summer is extremely hot and humid reaching some days about 40°C/104 ºF

I have 4 ideas for different builds with similar price as reference, Intel i7, Intel i5, phenom 2 6X and phenom 2 4x

Intel 7i:
motherboard: ASUS P7P55D-E LX
CPU: Intel Core i7 870 BOX
RAM: 8 GB (2x4GB) corsair CMX8GX3M2A1333C9 (ddr3-1333)
Videocard: Elsa GLADIAC GTX 460 1GB (GD460-1GERX)
HHD: western digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX (1tb for data and OS)
power supply: Antec TP-750AP
case: Scythe SCY-T33-BK (includes one fan)
extra fan for case: 2x 120mm fans ( deepcool Xfan 120U G/B)
optical unit: BUFFALO DVSM-724S/V-BK
mouse and keyboard: microsoft Wired Desktop 600

Intel 5i:
motherboard: gigabyte GA-P55A-UD3R Rev.2.0
CPU: Core i5 760 BOX
RAM: 8 GB (2x4GB) corsair CMX8GX3M2A1333C9 (ddr3-1333)
Video card: asus ENGTX460 DIRECTCU/2DI/1GD5
HHD: western digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX (1tb for data and OS)
power supply: Antec TP-750AP
case: NZXT HADES-BLUE (includes 4 fans)
optical unit: BUFFALO DVSM-724S/V-BK
mouse and keyboard: Wireless Desktop 3000

Phenom 2 6xi:
motherboard: ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3
CPU: Phenom II X6 1075T BOX
RAM: 8 GB (2x4GB) patriot PSD38G1333KH (ddr3-1333)
Video card: sapphire HD6950 2G GDDR5 PCI-E DP MINI DL-DVI-I + SL-DVI-D/HDMI/DUAL (21188-00-40R)
HHD: western digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX (1tb for data and OS)
power supply: corsair CMPSU-650TXJP
case: NZXT HADES-BLUE (includes 4 fans)
optical unit: BUFFALO DVSM-724S/V-BK
mouse and keyboard: Wireless Desktop 3000

Phenom 2 6xi:
motherboard: ASUS M4A88TD-M EVO/USB3
CPU: Phenom 2 4x 955 BOX (95w)
RAM: 8 GB (2x4GB) corsair CMX8GX3M2A1333C9 (ddr3-1333)
Video card: sapphire HD6870 1G GDDR5 PCI-E DL-DVI-I/SL-DVI-D/HDMI / DUAL MINI DP
HHD: western digital Caviar Blue WD10EALX (1tb for data)
SSD: intel X25-M Mainstream SSDSA2MH120G2K5 (120GB for system files and applications)
power supply: Antec EA-650
case: Scythe SCY-T33-BK (includes one fan)
extra fan for case: 2x 120mm fans ( deepcool Xfan 120U G/B)
optical unit: BUFFALO DVSM-724S/V-BK
mouse and keyboard: microsoft Wired Desktop 600

The i7 seems to be the fastest, but the NZXT case of the i5 and phenom 2 6x might be relevant for stability in extreme hot summer; also the 6x got an ati hd6950. The phenom 2 4x might be slower cpu but may be the ssd will represent a better improvement in performance than the other cpus.

I need to know if there is some mistake such as incompatible hardware, insufficient power, anything missing...
Which one should I go for considering the main purpose of the machine, fluid and solid, reliable working? (Considering really hot and humid summers) I prefer a bit slower work, but without crashes unstable behavior or data loss. Is there any component listed that I should avoid? What other components or alternatives should I consider?
Any advise

Thank you

More about : stable reliable work

January 14, 2011 12:31:49 AM

I forgot to clarify, 3d modelling will be more modelling and handling heavy files, but not so much rendering, mainly google sketchup
January 25, 2011 7:42:27 AM

what about forgetting all that and thinking in a Sandy bridge?
Related resources
January 25, 2011 8:16:36 AM

ytaaa said:
what about forgetting all that and thinking in a Sandy bridge?


With a $1000 budget, absolutely. SB is the build for 2011! :) 

That said, you could probably also go cheaper given your requirements.
January 25, 2011 9:11:22 AM

chnathan said:
With a $1000 budget, absolutely. SB is the build for 2011! :) 

That said, you could probably also go cheaper given your requirements.


yes, I am just a little concerned about finding a cheap motherboard that works already stable, most review refer to overclocking but I don't need to
January 25, 2011 9:23:18 AM

Well, since you're interested in quality over whatever's cheapest, here's one option that's got some good reviews: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... . Honestly, MBs from quality manufacturers don't just up and die very often, so I would expect you'll be fine.

You'll also want to go for name-brand RAM and a quality PSU. I like this ram http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... and a quality 650W PSU will be plenty for a single GPU build. There are plenty of good PSU choices out there - can help more with that once you have a rough build down. Things to consider are whether you want the cheapest reliable PSU that will do the job, or if it's worth a premium to you to have things like higher efficiency, lower noise, less heat (maybe given what you mentioned), or modular cables.

For maximum data protection, consider a raid 1 (mirror) setup along with regular backups to an external hard drive and/or network drive. (I do daily backups to my home server, supplemented by semi-weekly backups to a remote FTP server.)

The RAID will give you up to the second data in case a drive fails. In case your RAID controller / whole computer dies, taking the hard drives with it (extremely unlikely) you lose at most a day, and if your whole house gets flattened (hopefully even more unlikely), you still have recent data. :) 
January 26, 2011 12:00:06 AM

thanks

The Asus board looks good, however the p8p67 has many other versions, some cheaper as for example the p8p67 LE, does such other boards compromise stability or it is just some conectors and features missing which I eventually could not need? considering that I will not do overclocking and so on.

As for the ram, I have not seen much mushkin around here, may be they use another name, I don't know, but I ussually see a lot of corsair, patriot, a-data, transcend, samsung and cfd elixir.

As for power supply, anybody knows about the Antec EA-650 or Corsair CMPSU-650TX(JP)? (regarding temperature and reliability)

Also I could consider the RAID 1
January 26, 2011 1:34:18 PM

I am not sure if it's just marketing or if it means something but ASUS also have what they call "Corporate Stable Model" (CSM) versions of their motherboards which they imply have added reliability.

For instance:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

But, again, no idea if that's just clever marketing or if those boards have more reliable parts like all solid capacitors, etc.

As for power supplies, reliable brands are Antec, Seasonic and Corsair. Both the models you ask about have a good reputation for reliability.

January 26, 2011 8:56:32 PM

Dougie Fresh said:
I am not sure if it's just marketing or if it means something but ASUS also have what they call "Corporate Stable Model" (CSM) versions of their motherboards which they imply have added reliability.

For instance:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

But, again, no idea if that's just clever marketing or if those boards have more reliable parts like all solid capacitors, etc.

As for power supplies, reliable brands are Antec, Seasonic and Corsair. Both the models you ask about have a good reputation for reliability.


If it makes a difference I have the 650TX in my server. It's been on 24/7 for basically the past 2 years and is running fine, but the PSU fan bearing is starting to squeak just a bit. I'm considering upgrading to a Seasonic X-560, just so I'll likely never have to deal with it again. (The fan only spins under med-high load, so it should last forever.) The modular cables are nice too. Here's a review: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Seasonic-X-Serie...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Of course, it's pricier, so if you aren't going to be leaving the PC on 24/7 and don't mind the lack of modular cables, either one you mentioned would be more than fine. (Or even if you will leave it on 24/7 and don't mind replacing the PSU fan after a couple years.) This one really is overkill unless you want the best.
January 27, 2011 4:08:33 AM

thanks
helped a lot
what about gygabite mother borads, might the ultra durable something like the "Corporate Stable Model"? or should I just go for the ASUS P8H67-M PRO for instance?

Also I have not yet used a machine with ssd, but I heard that it should be very good. Ssds are still very expensive, anybody tryed them for boot partitions? It is really good, or better to upgrade later? In such case I would need to reinstall everything, right? years ago I remember that to clone a partition from one disk to another both had to be the same, I did it once but both hd were the same brand and capacity.
January 27, 2011 4:18:49 PM

I have had equal success with Gigabyte and ASUS. I've had Gigabyte boards longer and they've all been problem free. I can't speak to other brands because I've never bought any other brands. For me, the deciding factor between Gigabyte and ASUS is what is on sale.

I also have been using 64GB SSD as boot drives on my PCs. A word of warning: once you go SSD you'll never go back.
January 29, 2011 4:51:42 AM

As for the rest of the hardware parts

-I can't buy at newegg here but, I used it for links as reference only-

Ram:
corsair 4GBx2 CMX8GX3M2A1333C9 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
or
patriot 4GBx2 PSD38G1333KH a little cheaper than corsair, could not find at newegg but here http://www.dospara.co.jp/5shopping/detail_parts.php?bg=...

GPU:
sapphire HD6950 2G http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

or a 6870
sapphire HD6870 1G http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
which of theese two hd 6870 should be better?

(I am not a saffire fan, actually never had one before, but seems to offer a good product for its price around here)

HD:
For data: Samsung SpinPoint F3 HD103SJ
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
For system: Intel X25-M Mainstream SSDSA2MH080G2K5 80GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


(I still considering the RAID, but when I have lost partitions in the past it was because of software related problems or general unstability, so I will be using external backups anyway. Also I think HD has been botleneck for years loading apps and booting, so I will try to make an effort to use SSD for system.)

Power supply:
Antec EA-650

Case:
depends on wht I see at the purchase time, probably I just go shopping, so I can see what I buy. For temperature should I better use the psu at the top or bottom?


any advice?
January 29, 2011 6:05:07 AM

Depends what you mean about 'for temperature' as far as the PSU. At the bottom is the new trend because then the PSU channel is completely independent. It sucks cold air from outside the case, then expels it outside the case. In the standard ATX configuration (at the top), the PSU technically helps cool the case my sucking in warm air (usually from right above the CPU cooler) and expelling that. So bottom is better for the power supply, top may be better for case temperatures.

However, I'd say you're better off using your case exhaust fan(s), which you have more control over, for case temperatures and going for a power supply on the bottom given the choice. (Honestly though, whatever will work. I'm building my new system in a Fractal Design Define R3 which seems pretty decent and looks more professional than modern 'gaming' cases. Has nice quiet case fans and lots of soundproofing, which is nice if you're using it for work all day.

For the SSD, you might consider waiting until Intel releases its G3s in February. Supposedly that's going to drive prices down.
January 29, 2011 10:44:10 AM

thanks, I will see what I find, also I have to take care about the space for the video card, seems to be a large one, so I think it may depend a lot on the possibilities to fit the video card inside the case, and what airflow may remain after that. The Fractal Design Define R3, looks good, and might have room for such video cards, but a little expensive, but good as reference after watching some videos about the case, so I can see what detail to look for. As for external appearance, I do not care that much, but also I will try to avoid too much paraphernalia of some gamer cases...

Good news about the intel 3G, I suppose I still can wait a month, I had planned to built it in february anyway
February 2, 2011 1:02:33 AM

so now there is no much sb motherboard on the market, but I should have this thing working in february, so may be I will just go cheaper with some amd, I can't afford much softs to stress it anyway, but the sb was quite cheap for a long lasting system.
February 2, 2011 3:39:52 AM

Quote:
I need to build a reliable and stable working machine (but also some other uses)


Yep huge hell no to SB - the one thing for a stable,reliable work rig is data integrity/stability and the chipset flaw revealed makes SB a freak in this aspect

B]Sandy Bridge chipset flaw to cost Intel $1 billion[/B]
http://www.zdnet.com/blog/hardware/sandy-bridge-chipset-flaw-to-cost-intel-1-billion/11157

Quote:
All 6-series “Cougar Point” chipsets, including H67 and P67, are affected. The issue is a hardware design problem that causes high number of bit errors eventually device disconnection.
There is no software fix for this issue. All affected systems will need a motherboard replacement.
February 7, 2011 9:45:18 AM

going for 1090t with a good discount
February 11, 2011 11:22:39 PM

OK finally its complete.
at the end i got the phenom II 6x 1090t
motherboard asus m4a88td-m evo usb3
ram patriot 8gb (2x4gb) 1600mhz
gpu sapphire hd 6950 2gb
psu antec ea 650
case kurosuke (micro atx)

At the begining it was not very nice, I pressed the power button, all fans and lights went on but no signal on monitor. A was quite worried because I had some difficulties whit the cpu cooler. (as ussual with the stock amd cooler).
then I saw that the dram led on the motherboard was no, so I pushed the memOK button, o it started blinking.
After that I got the system running, but windows could not finish the instalation. So I checked the BIOS and saw that the ram voltage was set 2.4v, and the default was 1.5v and on the vendor page it was pecified 1.5v, so I set it at 1.5v and the windows instalation succeeded. No problem after that.
I have not yet installed prgrams to really stress the cpu but at this moment pc probe II shows cpu temperature 23C and motherboard 26C, but its cold today and I am not running more applications, as temperatures rise in the room cpu might reach 29C and the motherboard 30C. So I guess I did not mess up the cooler instalation, but I fave not yet seen temperatures stressing the cpu or in summer.

March 9, 2011 2:10:16 AM

Today I got an issue
After working without any problem since I got it working, today was something wrong.
Again I got no image on the screen at startup. I used the "input" button on the monitor (mitsubishi diamondcrysta RDT32IWLM-S), but nothing, but also I saw that the monitor power led was on and green, even after shutting down the pc and disconecting the pc from the monitor, it should be yellow in stand by. So I changed the ground conection and connected it to the same as the pc and the light went green, no idea if that was just coincidence. After that i got "no signal" on the monitor. Then tried to use the monitor connected with a notebook, it worked but image seemed to be smaller than I remebered (using hdmi). Then tried again with the pc, and just got "no signal" I tried without the vga card using the integrated, and also no signal, also no beeps from the mainboard or so. After that I got again the dram led on, pressed the button and still it was not working. Reconnected the monitor to ground, to make sure it was propperly making contact (ground conectors here are dredfull). After a while of testing finnally i got an image and windows as booting without problem but slower (with integrated video card, no idea what driver), so I could get into the bios, set the ram again to 1.5v and by the way disable the VT6415 IDE controller (because I have only sata drives, so it should boot better desaibling that, read it somewhere else). I got the vga card back inside the box, and it worked fine, no problem then. CPU temperature is 27 motherboard 30, normal for odays temperatures. The settings in the display menu were resetted by its own, I dont know if that is normal after disconecting and reconecting power cables. Another thing, windows booted without complaining about any unpropper shutdown or so, unless such mesages appeared without being able to see them. But it seems that the pc was not wanting to boot during the problem.

Anybody knows about such issues?
March 9, 2011 9:01:27 AM

or should i better start another thread with the last issue
!