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Tom's Hardware > Forum > Laptops & Notebooks > General Discussion > A S-Video connection fried both my TV and laptop! Answers ..

A S-Video connection fried both my TV and laptop! Answers ..

Forum Laptops & Notebooks : General Discussion A S-Video connection fried both my TV and laptop! Answers ..

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Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

Hello,

Recently, I had a big power surge problem involving both my brand new
laptop and my less than two years old TV. Two total looses.

My main concern is that I don't really understand what happened and,
thereof, can't see a way to prevent it in the future.

Here's the story :

I bought a few weeks ago an HP notebook with an S-Video output. I used
my laptop (on battery and AC power) a week and a half before trying the
S-Video output and did not have a single problem.

So, someday, I decided it was time to try to connect my laptop on my TV
by using the S-Video output. I bought a S-Video-to-RCA cable at
Radioshack because I thought it would be more practical to have my
laptop connected to the front RCA jacks of my TV.

As soon as the contact was made, both my laptop and TV went off and I
could smell a light odour of burnt electronic components. The TV did
not seem to be damaged because I could turn it on almost immediately.
As for the laptop, I simply had to reinsert the battery to make it
start.

Maybe it was very stupid, but I thought that the problem could be the
cheap RadioShack cable. So I decided to buy a true S-Video cable.

For my second try, I choose to not plug the laptop into the AC outlet
and just use the battery. After connecting the laptop to the TV, all I
see is a black screen. By the way, I did not feel like there was a
power surge problem this time.

Days later, I really wanted to make my S-Video port work. So, I
downloaded the latest devices drivers for my graphic card and gave the
S-Video output a new try with the laptop connected to the AC outlet.
Not a good idea.

Again, as soon as the contact was made, both my laptop and TV went off
and I could smell a strong odour of burnt electronic components. This
time the damage was terrible. Both my laptop and TV are completely
fried. There is just no way to make'em work anymore.

So my questions are :

1) What happened ?
2) How could I prevent this kind of surge ?
3) Should I never try to connect a laptop to a TV ?

I made a diagram of my living room electrical setup. You can see it at
this URL : http://home.ca.inter.net/~gdupuis/livingroomsetup.jpg

I don't think that the problem is from my TV since it is almost new
and because it never fried my DVD player or VCR. I guess the problem
comes from my laptop, but I still don't really understand.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really need to understand
since I don't know much about electricity.

Thank you very much.

(By the way, I am very sorry for the poor English. It is not my
language.)

Reply to Anonymous
Register or log in to remove.

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Recently, I had a big power surge problem involving both my brand new
> laptop and my less than two years old TV. Two total looses.
>
> My main concern is that I don't really understand what happened and,
> thereof, can't see a way to prevent it in the future.
>
> Here's the story :
>
> I bought a few weeks ago an HP notebook with an S-Video output. I used
> my laptop (on battery and AC power) a week and a half before trying
> the S-Video output and did not have a single problem.
>
> So, someday, I decided it was time to try to connect my laptop on my
> TV by using the S-Video output. I bought a S-Video-to-RCA cable at
> Radioshack because I thought it would be more practical to have my
> laptop connected to the front RCA jacks of my TV.
>
> As soon as the contact was made, both my laptop and TV went off and I
> could smell a light odour of burnt electronic components. The TV did
> not seem to be damaged because I could turn it on almost immediately.
> As for the laptop, I simply had to reinsert the battery to make it
> start.
>
> Maybe it was very stupid, but I thought that the problem could be the
> cheap RadioShack cable. So I decided to buy a true S-Video cable.
>
> For my second try, I choose to not plug the laptop into the AC outlet
> and just use the battery. After connecting the laptop to the TV, all I
> see is a black screen. By the way, I did not feel like there was a
> power surge problem this time.
>
> Days later, I really wanted to make my S-Video port work. So, I
> downloaded the latest devices drivers for my graphic card and gave the
> S-Video output a new try with the laptop connected to the AC outlet.
> Not a good idea.
>
> Again, as soon as the contact was made, both my laptop and TV went off
> and I could smell a strong odour of burnt electronic components. This
> time the damage was terrible. Both my laptop and TV are completely
> fried. There is just no way to make'em work anymore.
>
> So my questions are :
>
> 1) What happened ?
> 2) How could I prevent this kind of surge ?
> 3) Should I never try to connect a laptop to a TV ?
>
> I made a diagram of my living room electrical setup. You can see it at
> this URL : http://home.ca.inter.net/~gdupuis/livingroomsetup.jpg
>
> I don't think that the problem is from my TV since it is almost new
> and because it never fried my DVD player or VCR. I guess the problem
> comes from my laptop, but I still don't really understand.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really need to understand
> since I don't know much about electricity.
>
> Thank you very much.
>
> (By the way, I am very sorry for the poor English. It is not my
> language.)

It looks like a problem with the electrical grounding of the TV vs the
laptop. One, probably the TV, is not properly grounded. Connecting the
S-video cable simply established a common ground potential between the
two pieces of equipment. This is normal and with good electrical ground
on the AC supply no more that a very small amount of total charge
(amp-hours) is required to establish a common ground potential. If,
however, if the two pieces of electrical equipment are from two
different AC supplies not sharing a common ground, it is possible to
move substantial charge, or even create a dead short to ground, thus
overloading one or both through the ground plane.

This episode clearly shows that there is a serious grounding problem
with the AC supply you have. Either the system is ungrounded, the AC
lines have been switched so that ground is live, etc. It is not only a
hazard with equipment, but is likely a personal safety hazard. You need
the services of a reputable, licensed electrician.

Q

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca <dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca> wrote:
>
> So my questions are :
>
> 1) What happened ?
> 2) How could I prevent this kind of surge ?
> 3) Should I never try to connect a laptop to a TV ?
>
> I made a diagram of my living room electrical setup. You can see it at
> this URL : http://home.ca.inter.net/~gdupuis/livingroomsetup.jpg
>

I'm sure there's people here who know a lot more about this than I do,
but that *** NOT GROUNDED *** label on the TV outlet screams out to me,
"OH NO!!". An S-Video cable contains a ground wire. Your laptop was
properly grounded, your TV was not. They did not share a common ground,
and when you connected them, the ground voltage differential was large
enough to send a large current through the S-Video cable's ground wire.

A composite video cable also has a ground wire, but maybe it was only
the Radio Shack adapter that got burned up, not your equipment (complete
speculation). You didn't fry anything when your laptop was on battery
power because your laptop was not grounded while running on battery.

That's my take on things, but I'm no electrician, and as I said, I'm
sure there are way more knowledgable people here.

To prevent this, you could have either 1) had a grounded AC cable to
the TV; or 2) plugged the laptop into the same surge suppressor that the
TV was plugged into. In the latter case, both the laptop and the TV
would have been improperly grounded, but they would have shared
the same ground voltage. Assuming, of course, that my amateur-level
analysis is correct.

Usually it's no problem to use the S-Video output of a laptop to
hook up to a TV, either with an S-Video cable or with a S-Video to
composite adapter.

That's quite a loss you've sustained there. Probably several thousand
dollars :( Now I'm gonna go check all my outlets to make sure
everything's grounded.

Your English is fine :)

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

Thanks for your help,

"They did not share a common ground, and when you connected them, the
ground voltage differential was large enough to send a large current
through the S-Video cable's ground wire. "

I don't know much about electronics. I'm not sure to really understand
what you mean by "common ground" ? I mean, even if nothing was grounded
in my house, a laptop shouldn't burn a TV and a TV shouldn't burn a
laptop, no?

"To prevent this, you could have either 1) had a grounded AC cable to
the TV; or 2) plugged the laptop into the same surge suppressor that
the TV was plugged into. In the latter case, both the laptop and the
TV would have been improperly grounded, but they would have shared the
same ground voltage. Assuming, of course, that my amateur-level
analysis is correct."

Ground voltage? Are you saying that if I try to connect my DVD player
to my TV using the same AC outlet that my laptop was plugged on, the
same disaster will happen again?

It is very important for to understand what happened and your advice is
really appreciated. Thank you again.

Gabriel.

wbw wrote:
> dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca <dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> >
> > So my questions are :
> >
> > 1) What happened ?
> > 2) How could I prevent this kind of surge ?
> > 3) Should I never try to connect a laptop to a TV ?
> >
> > I made a diagram of my living room electrical setup. You can see it
at
> > this URL : http://home.ca.inter.net/~gdupuis/livingroomsetup.jpg
> >
>
> I'm sure there's people here who know a lot more about this than I
do,
> but that *** NOT GROUNDED *** label on the TV outlet screams out to
me,
> "OH NO!!". An S-Video cable contains a ground wire. Your laptop was
> properly grounded, your TV was not. They did not share a common
ground,
> and when you connected them, the ground voltage differential was
large
> enough to send a large current through the S-Video cable's ground
wire.
>
> A composite video cable also has a ground wire, but maybe it was only

> the Radio Shack adapter that got burned up, not your equipment
(complete
> speculation). You didn't fry anything when your laptop was on
battery
> power because your laptop was not grounded while running on battery.
>
> That's my take on things, but I'm no electrician, and as I said, I'm
> sure there are way more knowledgable people here.
>
> To prevent this, you could have either 1) had a grounded AC cable to
> the TV; or 2) plugged the laptop into the same surge suppressor that
the
> TV was plugged into. In the latter case, both the laptop and the TV
> would have been improperly grounded, but they would have shared
> the same ground voltage. Assuming, of course, that my amateur-level
> analysis is correct.
>
> Usually it's no problem to use the S-Video output of a laptop to
> hook up to a TV, either with an S-Video cable or with a S-Video to
> composite adapter.
>
> That's quite a loss you've sustained there. Probably several
thousand
> dollars :( Now I'm gonna go check all my outlets to make sure
> everything's grounded.
>
> Your English is fine :)

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

For Quaoar :

As you can see in the diagram I posted, I did something very stupid :
my TV is connected to a surge suppressor, but the surge suppressor is
connected to the AC outlet using a cheap 2-pin extension cable. So, no,
my TV is not properly grounded.

You seem to know what you are talking about, but I'm not at your level
in electricity matters. To be honest, I'd like to know if it's possible
for you to explain me a few concepts that you used in your reply
because I do not understand them.

- common ground potential
- ground plane
- "ground is live"

Thank you very much.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca wrote:

> Thanks for your help,
>
> "They did not share a common ground, and when you connected them, the
> ground voltage differential was large enough to send a large current
> through the S-Video cable's ground wire. "
>
> I don't know much about electronics. I'm not sure to really understand
> what you mean by "common ground" ? I mean, even if nothing was grounded
> in my house, a laptop shouldn't burn a TV and a TV shouldn't burn a
> laptop, no?
>
> "To prevent this, you could have either 1) had a grounded AC cable to
> the TV; or 2) plugged the laptop into the same surge suppressor that
> the TV was plugged into. In the latter case, both the laptop and the
> TV would have been improperly grounded, but they would have shared the
> same ground voltage. Assuming, of course, that my amateur-level
> analysis is correct."
>
> Ground voltage? Are you saying that if I try to connect my DVD player
> to my TV using the same AC outlet that my laptop was plugged on, the
> same disaster will happen again?
>
> It is very important for to understand what happened and your advice is
> really appreciated. Thank you again.

In the US one wire is "neutral" and is connected to the ground at the
breaker panel--something would have to be badly wrong with the wiring for
there to be a ground differential in the situation you describe. Outside
the US the standards differ so that may not be the case.

My inclination would be to believe that there's something improperly wired
up inside the TV. Before I plugged anything else into it I'd want to check
it with instruments.
>
> Gabriel.
>
> wbw wrote:
>> dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca <dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca> wrote:
>> >
>> > So my questions are :
>> >
>> > 1) What happened ?
>> > 2) How could I prevent this kind of surge ?
>> > 3) Should I never try to connect a laptop to a TV ?
>> >
>> > I made a diagram of my living room electrical setup. You can see it
> at
>> > this URL : http://home.ca.inter.net/~gdupuis/livingroomsetup.jpg
>> >
>>
>> I'm sure there's people here who know a lot more about this than I
> do,
>> but that *** NOT GROUNDED *** label on the TV outlet screams out to
> me,
>> "OH NO!!". An S-Video cable contains a ground wire. Your laptop was
>> properly grounded, your TV was not. They did not share a common
> ground,
>> and when you connected them, the ground voltage differential was
> large
>> enough to send a large current through the S-Video cable's ground
> wire.
>>
>> A composite video cable also has a ground wire, but maybe it was only
>
>> the Radio Shack adapter that got burned up, not your equipment
> (complete
>> speculation). You didn't fry anything when your laptop was on
> battery
>> power because your laptop was not grounded while running on battery.
>>
>> That's my take on things, but I'm no electrician, and as I said, I'm
>> sure there are way more knowledgable people here.
>>
>> To prevent this, you could have either 1) had a grounded AC cable to
>> the TV; or 2) plugged the laptop into the same surge suppressor that
> the
>> TV was plugged into. In the latter case, both the laptop and the TV
>> would have been improperly grounded, but they would have shared
>> the same ground voltage. Assuming, of course, that my amateur-level
>> analysis is correct.
>>
>> Usually it's no problem to use the S-Video output of a laptop to
>> hook up to a TV, either with an S-Video cable or with a S-Video to
>> composite adapter.
>>
>> That's quite a loss you've sustained there. Probably several
> thousand
>> dollars :( Now I'm gonna go check all my outlets to make sure
>> everything's grounded.
>>
>> Your English is fine :)



--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

TVs are typically designed to reduce costs to the absolute minimum by using a
power supply that has no isolating power transformer, so with a 2-wire
(ungrounded) AC power connection, the TV chassis will either be at 'neutra'
potential (roughly ground) or at 'live' potential (high voltage) depending on
the "luck of the draw" in how you plug it into the mains socket. In the old days
this didn't matter because there weren't any external connections anyway (except
maybe an audio output that was obtained safely via an audio output transformer).
If additional connections such as S-video are required, TV design can adapt
cheaply by either providing output isolation via signal transformers or
capacitors (which allow signals to pass but block DC and the low-frequency AC of
the mains supply) or (even more cheaply) by ensuring that the TV chassis is at
neutral by using a 3-pin plug that can only be inserted into the mains in the
correct way (with the extra safety bonus that external metalwork, etc. can be
grounded via the third wire). It is in principle possible for an isolating
capacitor or transformer to short-circuit due to a failure or a manufacturing
fault, though the latter is more likely in the case of a new set, and neither is
that likely with a set made by a reputable manufacturer. Perhaps you fell victim
to the last possibility, namely that your set used a 3-pin connection that would
have been fine if you had connected it direct to a wall outlet (assuming that
the outlet is itself wired properly, of course!), but by connecting your set via
a 2-wire extension you inadvertently played lotto with odds of 1:1 (and, ahem,
....lost). If the TV set had low-voltage isolating capacitors, these might not
have been able to withstand the potential difference between a live chassis and
an external ground. (In that case, though, I would have thought that the user
manual would have contained some very strong warning forbidding the use of
two-wire extension cables... )

Laptops typically use an external AC adaptor that contains a switching power
supply which itself may or may not use an isolating transformer, depending on
the design. Some of these may also use a 2-pin AC connector. If you combine a
non-isolating AC adaptor with a 2-pin connector, again you're playing a game of
chance. Such a combination may well be prohibited, however, by local or
international standards, because it is fundamentally unsafe. (I must admit I've
never really thought about that issue before now.)

You would have to consult a qualified professional to determine the true cause
of the problem in your case, though, particularly if you suspect any
construction fault (whether equipment or house wiring). However I would
immediately junk any 2-wire extension cable (or possibly restrict it for use
solely with existing simple 2-wire appliances such as table lamps).

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

In "Re: A S-Video connection fried both my TV and laptop! Answers needed!", R.
J. Sutherland <rj.sutherland.removethis@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>(ungrounded) AC power connection, the TV chassis will either be at 'neutra'

Oops! should be 'neutral', of course...

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

R. J. Sutherland wrote:

>
> TVs are typically designed to reduce costs to the absolute minimum by
> using a power supply that has no isolating power transformer, so with a
> 2-wire (ungrounded) AC power connection, the TV chassis will either be at
> 'neutra' potential (roughly ground) or at 'live' potential (high voltage)
> depending on the "luck of the draw" in how you plug it into the mains
> socket. In the old days this didn't matter because there weren't any
> external connections anyway (except maybe an audio output that was
> obtained safely via an audio output transformer). If additional
> connections such as S-video are required, TV design can adapt cheaply by
> either providing output isolation via signal transformers or capacitors
> (which allow signals to pass but block DC and the low-frequency AC of the
> mains supply) or (even more cheaply) by ensuring that the TV chassis is at
> neutral by using a 3-pin plug that can only be inserted into the mains in
> the correct way (with the extra safety bonus that external metalwork, etc.
> can be grounded via the third wire).

In the US the two slots in the outlet are of different sizes, so that a
keyed two-prong plug is possible. It is still possible to defeat that with
a file or a hammer, but one of the reasons that that route was taken was
that the three-pin plugs were often defeated by breaking off the third pin.

> It is in principle possible for an
> isolating capacitor or transformer to short-circuit due to a failure or a
> manufacturing fault, though the latter is more likely in the case of a new
> set, and neither is that likely with a set made by a reputable
> manufacturer. Perhaps you fell victim to the last possibility, namely that
> your set used a 3-pin connection that would have been fine if you had
> connected it direct to a wall outlet (assuming that the outlet is itself
> wired properly, of course!), but by connecting your set via a 2-wire
> extension you inadvertently played lotto with odds of 1:1 (and, ahem,
> ...lost). If the TV set had low-voltage isolating capacitors, these might
> not have been able to withstand the potential difference between a live
> chassis and an external ground. (In that case, though, I would have
> thought that the user manual would have contained some very strong warning
> forbidding the use of two-wire extension cables... )
>
> Laptops typically use an external AC adaptor that contains a switching
> power supply which itself may or may not use an isolating transformer,
> depending on the design. Some of these may also use a 2-pin AC connector.
> If you combine a non-isolating AC adaptor with a 2-pin connector, again
> you're playing a game of chance. Such a combination may well be
> prohibited, however, by local or international standards, because it is
> fundamentally unsafe. (I must admit I've never really thought about that
> issue before now.)
>
> You would have to consult a qualified professional to determine the true
> cause of the problem in your case, though, particularly if you suspect any
> construction fault (whether equipment or house wiring). However I would
> immediately junk any 2-wire extension cable (or possibly restrict it for
> use solely with existing simple 2-wire appliances such as table lamps).

FWIW, it's possible that the outlet is wired improperly, with neutral and
hot reversed. In the US there are inexpensive testers available at most
major building-supply stores that will check this and give a "go/no-go"
response.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

<dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:1109758327.620582.137420@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> Hello,
>
> Recently, I had a big power surge problem involving both my brand new
> laptop and my less than two years old TV. Two total looses.
>
> My main concern is that I don't really understand what happened and,
> thereof, can't see a way to prevent it in the future.
>
> Here's the story :
>

[snipped]

A check of your diagram instantly reveals the story. There is no ground
wire to the TV set up. Modern TVs (and indeed the other equipment on the
same circuit) runs using switch mode power supplies. These contain a an
input filter circuit, which cause the ground wire to assume a potential of
half the line voltage if not otherwise grounded. Since there are several
pieces of equipement connected, the combined filters will have a substantial
stored charge.

Your S-video cable provided the ground path for that charge via the laptop's
mains supply cable. The burning smell (and smoke?) is because the S-Video
ports on both the TV and the laptop are not designed to handle the current
that flowed. Had the TV circuit been properly grounded, you would not have
had a problem.

You should be thankful that it was your S-Video cable that completed the
circuit - it could have been you or a member of your family.

Ian.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

In "Re: A S-Video connection fried both my TV and laptop! Answers needed!", "J.
Clarke" <jclarke.usenet@snet.net.invalid> wrote:

>In the US the two slots in the outlet are of different sizes, so that a
>keyed two-prong plug is possible.

I never noticed that - it's been a while since I've been in North America, but I
was always amazed at the relative abundance of 2-wire circuits there. They
vanished here in the UK with our transition from round-pin to square-pin
plugs/sockets in the 60's, and in continental Europe around the same time with a
deliberate move to 3-wire plugs/sockets. But with 230V mains, we have to be
very, very careful.


>It is still possible to defeat that with
>a file or a hammer, but one of the reasons that that route was taken was
>that the three-pin plugs were often defeated by breaking off the third pin.

(Crikey! For every situation there is an idiot, as I always say...)


>
>FWIW, it's possible that the outlet is wired improperly, with neutral and
>hot reversed. In the US there are inexpensive testers available at most
>major building-supply stores that will check this and give a "go/no-go"
>response.

Yes, that's what worries me most. I think the original respondent is in Canada,
but your comment probably still applies. I think he would be well advised to
check all his wall outlets with such a device (which is why I've sent this
otherwise somewhat OT response).

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

In "Re: A S-Video connection fried both my TV and laptop! Answers needed!", R.
J. Sutherland <rj.sutherland.removethis@ntlworld.com> wrote:

> I think he would be well advised to check all his wall outlets with such a device

Oh, and his 2-wire extension cable too...

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

In "Re: A S-Video connection fried both my TV and laptop! Answers needed!", "Ye
Electric Fanne Clube" <ian.shorrocks@baeherclothessystems.com> wrote:

[...] These [power supplies] contain an
>input filter circuit which cause[s] the ground wire to assume a potential of
>half the line voltage if not otherwise grounded. Since there are several
>pieces of equipement connected, the combined filters will have a substantial
>stored charge.

A properly isolated output can indeed assume arbitrary potentials relative to
the grounds of other equipment depending on the relative capacitances *between*
them all (not on the storage capacity *within* any of them, note). Because the
capacitances are very small, the charges accumulated are also very small, and
the resistance of an interconnect cable is quite sufficient to keep any
transient equalising current flows small. I would certainly not expect these to
cause any kind of burning or equipment damage. (Occasionally a static
electricity discharge generated by friction between different materials can
generate sufficient potential to destroy a semiconductor device, which is not
quite the same thing, and in any case is a silent - and smell/smoke free -
assassin.) No, the kind of damage reported is characteristic of a short between
two lines of different fixed potentials, and is much more serious (and
dangerous). This could result, for example, from a switched power supply whose
output *isn't* properly isolated, whether by design or because of a fault.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

Sounds like the cable used was the Wrong one.. Laptop we can help
with.. The TV? Used to repair these but whats the point anymore..
(They are inexpensive to replace unless its a new Hi- def)...

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

"J. Clarke" <jclarke.usenet@snet.net.invalid> wrote in message
news:d056360310h@news2.newsguy.com...
> dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca wrote:
>
.....
> In the US one wire is "neutral" and is connected to the ground at the
> breaker panel--something would have to be badly wrong with the wiring for
> there to be a ground differential in the situation you describe. Outside
> the US the standards differ so that may not be the case.
>

There are a lot of old houses in the US that are still wired with 2-wire
wiring. As rooms are re-modeled, etc., they may put in new grounded
outlets, but many times these are still not grounded.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

"R. J. Sutherland" <rj.sutherland.removethis@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:lc2e21hp5elhvabo58g20i9dnh5po9i91q@4ax.com...
> In "Re: A S-Video connection fried both my TV and laptop! Answers
needed!", "Ye
>
> A properly isolated output can indeed assume arbitrary potentials relative
to
> the grounds of other equipment depending on the relative capacitances
*between*
> them all (not on the storage capacity *within* any of them, note). Because
the
> capacitances are very small, the charges accumulated are also very small,
and
> the resistance of an interconnect cable is quite sufficient to keep any
> transient equalising current flows small. I would certainly not expect
these to
> cause any kind of burning or equipment damage. (Occasionally a static
> electricity discharge generated by friction between different materials
can
> generate sufficient potential to destroy a semiconductor device, which is
not
> quite the same thing, and in any case is a silent - and smell/smoke free -
> assassin.) No, the kind of damage reported is characteristic of a short
between
> two lines of different fixed potentials, and is much more serious (and
> dangerous). This could result, for example, from a switched power supply
whose
> output *isn't* properly isolated, whether by design or because of a fault.
>

Although SMPSUs do provide isolation between the mains input and the DC
output, the ground point of the input filter circuit is taken to input
ground, but this is also connected through to the grounded output terminal.
The 2 filter capacitors that go between the live and neutral input (the
latter of which is also ground in the US), form a voltage divider. If the
input ground is not actually grounded, then the (now) equipment ground
assumes half line potential.

I would agree that the capacitance values encountered would normally be
quite small, but it is possible that the equipment in question is also sold
in Europe in some form. If this is the case, then the filtering is far more
substantial because of Europe's power factor correction requirements. It is
also quite possible that some part of the set up has a leakage fault.

Remember that there is a valuable clue in that the burning did not occur
when the laptop was energised from batteries.

Ian.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

"R. J. Sutherland" <rj.sutherland.removethis@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:aeud21lpc00vanlqbe48d382akknb0v44s@4ax.com...
> In "Re: A S-Video connection fried both my TV and laptop! Answers
needed!", "J.
> Clarke" <jclarke.usenet@snet.net.invalid> wrote:
>
> >In the US the two slots in the outlet are of different sizes, so that a
> >keyed two-prong plug is possible.
>
> I never noticed that - it's been a while since I've been in North America,
but I
> was always amazed at the relative abundance of 2-wire circuits there. They
> vanished here in the UK with our transition from round-pin to square-pin
> plugs/sockets in the 60's, and in continental Europe around the same time
with a
> deliberate move to 3-wire plugs/sockets. But with 230V mains, we have to
be
> very, very careful.
>

It's quite surprising at the variance here. In the Netherlands, 3 wire
outlets are extremely rare. In Italy, they are only likely to be
encountered in a kitchen for the washing machine (and in my experience, the
centre ground pin is occasionally connected to something)

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

"Joe Davis" <davisexp@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:OJFVd.101$cN6.59@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>
> "J. Clarke" <jclarke.usenet@snet.net.invalid> wrote in message
> news:d056360310h@news2.newsguy.com...
> > dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca wrote:
> >
> ....
> > In the US one wire is "neutral" and is connected to the ground at the
> > breaker panel--something would have to be badly wrong with the wiring
for
> > there to be a ground differential in the situation you describe.
Outside
> > the US the standards differ so that may not be the case.
> >
>
> There are a lot of old houses in the US that are still wired with 2-wire
> wiring. As rooms are re-modeled, etc., they may put in new grounded
> outlets, but many times these are still not grounded.

That is a non-ssue, as there are *NO* consumer TV's in the U.S. supplied
with a grounding-type plug, to the best of my knowledge. Every one that
I've ever had (or seen) only had a two pin non-grounding AC mains
plug...same with VCR's, DVD's and every other piece of consumer-grade home
entertainment gear that I've seen or owned.

TV's get grounded by the shield in the cable connection. I had a cable guy
once tell me that something in my video system was causing a difference in
potential between ground and the shield on the cable going into my house.
He installed a 'DC blocker' which could only have been an inline capacitor.
He advised me to get the grounds on my outlets checked...HA!

jak

>
>

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

You're right, my TV doesn't have 3-prong plug, just like my DVD player.
Everyone is suspecting my cheap extension cable (which I changed
today!), but, like I said, my TV doesn't have a 3-prong plug.

There's something that you said which interested me. You said that the
TV is in reality grounded using the shield in the cable connection. It
seemed to me like an useless detail, but now, I guess you have to know
that I had no connector on my coaxial cable when I plugged my laptop
into my TV. Since then, I put a new connector on my coaxial cable, but
I couldn't imagine that it would make such a difference. Maybe we found
the source of the problem.

Thanks for your help. I'll write another message resuming the answers
that I got and some new details (like the fact that I checked every AC
outlet in my appartment and only one (the one on which the TV was
plugged - not the laptop) was OK according to an APC surge suppressor).

Thanks for your help.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

jakdedert wrote:

>
> "Joe Davis" <davisexp@attglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:OJFVd.101$cN6.59@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>>
>> "J. Clarke" <jclarke.usenet@snet.net.invalid> wrote in message
>> news:d056360310h@news2.newsguy.com...
>> > dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca wrote:
>> >
>> ....
>> > In the US one wire is "neutral" and is connected to the ground at the
>> > breaker panel--something would have to be badly wrong with the wiring
> for
>> > there to be a ground differential in the situation you describe.
> Outside
>> > the US the standards differ so that may not be the case.
>> >
>>
>> There are a lot of old houses in the US that are still wired with 2-wire
>> wiring. As rooms are re-modeled, etc., they may put in new grounded
>> outlets, but many times these are still not grounded.
>
> That is a non-ssue, as there are *NO* consumer TV's in the U.S. supplied
> with a grounding-type plug, to the best of my knowledge. Every one that
> I've ever had (or seen) only had a two pin non-grounding AC mains
> plug...same with VCR's, DVD's and every other piece of consumer-grade home
> entertainment gear that I've seen or owned.
>
> TV's get grounded by the shield in the cable connection.

That may provide a signal ground for the video signal but that is not a
power ground.

Bear in mind that for most of the life of TV in the US the "cable
connection" was a 300 ohm balanced twinlead going to a roof antenna. For
me it's still going to a roof antenna, but the roof antenna is now a
satellite dish, and the cable shield is grounded, but if there was a
significant difference in ground potential between the electrical power and
the shield ground, the shield would go up in smoke in no time.

> I had a cable
> guy once tell me that something in my video system was causing a
> difference in potential between ground and the shield on the cable going
> into my house. He installed a 'DC blocker' which could only have been an
> inline capacitor. He advised me to get the grounds on my outlets
> checked...HA!
>
> jak
>
>>
>>

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

Posting the same question to at least four newsgroups
(alt.comp.hardware, sci.electronics.misc, comp.sys.laptops &
and alt.electrical.engineering) is not going to provide any
better answer. You have not yet provided sufficient
information. You provided the best you could at the time.
Now you know of more facts that must be supplied. IOW the
only useful answer says what and how to get that necessary
additional information.

Many (and far from all) of your answers are technically
correct. However they are only tens of - maybe over 100 -
possibilities. Still you are no closer to all the possible
answers. Essential information - especially the numbers - is
required. IOW those who best know the answer are not even
posting because you still have not provided sufficient
information to make a useful reply. Currently, every answer
is best described as 'shotgunning' or 'wild speculation'.
Some are quite accurate possibilities. But far more
possibilities have not yet even been posted. And should not
be posted because the numbers of possibilities is too
numerous.

Posted previously was a requirement for a 3.5 digit
multimeter and how to obtain important facts. No way around
that requirement because - as was posted elsewhere - this
could also be a precursor to a human safety problem. Also
posted previously, this damage requires at least two
simultaneous failures. This damage could not be caused by any
single point failure.

Is using that meter scary? Good. That means this tool
about as complex as screwdrivers, is necessary, educational,
exciting, interesting, and informative. Get the meter and
don't even ask why.

Now to dispel the myths. First is the idea that an APC
surge protector told you anything useful about those wall
receptacles. It does not. You still don't know of possible
human safety problems in those receptacles. Second is that
any cheap power cord or Radio Shack cable could have cause
this damage. Forget it. Enough said. Third, missing ground
pin on the TV could contribute to the damage. Nonsense.
However your TV power cord is polarized for good reason. It
should not be possible to connect power reversed. Was it a
surge? No. It was an unacceptable voltage difference that
could only occur due to multiple failures. Is the TV grounded
by coax signal input? Yes, if one of the failures was inside
that TV. Otherwise no. But again, the meter is required.
Destructive voltages could even enter via coax if an earthing
(one type of grounding) problem exists. If that internal
failure existed, then AC voltage numbers on that meter would
have made this (and many other possible) failures obvious.

There is no replacement for the numbers provided by that
meter. Previously posted were some important voltage numbers
to obtain from between two separated wall receptacles. That
might expose one of the failures or might demonstrate why
damage could be so significant.

Way too many possibilities exist. You clearly don't yet
have basic knowledge to even begin to understand which are
useful facts, which are total myths, and how many valid
possibilities exist due to too few facts. Get the meter if
for no other reason, because one of those failures could also
be a serious human safety problem. Get the meter because there
is no faster way to obtain essential information - the
numbers. And get the meter because learning is best
accomplished by actually taking the measurements.

BTW, which country is this AC power in. Another important
fact. Currently this and many posts have assumed N America.
Basic facts remain same. Some details would change if not in
NA.

"dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca" wrote:
> You're right, my TV doesn't have 3-prong plug, just like my DVD player.
> Everyone is suspecting my cheap extension cable (which I changed
> today!), but, like I said, my TV doesn't have a 3-prong plug.
>
> There's something that you said which interested me. You said that the
> TV is in reality grounded using the shield in the cable connection. It
> seemed to me like an useless detail, but now, I guess you have to know
> that I had no connector on my coaxial cable when I plugged my laptop
> into my TV. Since then, I put a new connector on my coaxial cable, but
> I couldn't imagine that it would make such a difference. Maybe we found
> the source of the problem.
>
> Thanks for your help. I'll write another message resuming the answers
> that I got and some new details (like the fact that I checked every AC
> outlet in my appartment and only one (the one on which the TV was
> plugged - not the laptop) was OK according to an APC surge suppressor).
>
> Thanks for your help.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

On 2 Mar 2005 02:12:07 -0800, "dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca"
<dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca> wrote:

>
snip
>
>Again, as soon as the contact was made, both my laptop and TV went off
>and I could smell a strong odour of burnt electronic components. This
>time the damage was terrible. Both my laptop and TV are completely
>fried. There is just no way to make'em work anymore.
>
>So my questions are :
>
>1) What happened ?
>2) How could I prevent this kind of surge ?
>3) Should I never try to connect a laptop to a TV ?
>
>I made a diagram of my living room electrical setup. You can see it at
>this URL : http://home.ca.inter.net/~gdupuis/livingroomsetup.jpg
>
>I don't think that the problem is from my TV since it is almost new
>and because it never fried my DVD player or VCR. I guess the problem
>comes from my laptop, but I still don't really understand.
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really need to understand
>since I don't know much about electricity.
>
>Thank you very much.
>
>(By the way, I am very sorry for the poor English. It is not my
>language.)

You should disconnect everything from ac power including the surge
protectors and and power strips and immediately ask a professional
to check all in person This isn't something that can be "fixed"
or easily explained without the technical knowledge and equipment
which you do not possess.

You have no way to determine what advise and opinion you receive
here is expert or just well intentioned but not knowledgeable or
even dangerously but unintentiionlly misleading. Genuine expert
advise here is also of limited value to you since that requires
knowledge and equipment on your part too But you would not be
asking if you had all that.. On site professional expertise is
the only thing you should consider.

..As pointed out here there are several _real_ possibilities.
One not mntioned is that sheer good luck with the various ac plug
insertions (orientation) from all the devices shown in your
diagram, and your touching of metal parts, may also have kept the
problem hidden until the laptop and all its connections was
connected. There is at least one device other than through the
laptop connection that is dangerous since enough current can flow
to burn components.

I urge you to seek professional in person checking.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

J. Clarke wrote:
> jakdedert wrote:
>
>>
>> "Joe Davis" <davisexp@attglobal.net> wrote in message
>> news:OJFVd.101$cN6.59@newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>>>
>>> "J. Clarke" <jclarke.usenet@snet.net.invalid> wrote in message
>>> news:d056360310h@news2.newsguy.com...
>>>> dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca wrote:
>>>>
>>> ....
>>>> In the US one wire is "neutral" and is connected to the ground at
>>>> the breaker panel--something would have to be badly wrong with the
>>>> wiring for there to be a ground differential in the situation you
>>>> describe. Outside the US the standards differ so that may not be
>>>> the case.
>>>>
>>>
>>> There are a lot of old houses in the US that are still wired with
>>> 2-wire wiring. As rooms are re-modeled, etc., they may put in new
>>> grounded outlets, but many times these are still not grounded.
>>
>> That is a non-ssue, as there are *NO* consumer TV's in the U.S.
>> supplied with a grounding-type plug, to the best of my knowledge.
>> Every one that I've ever had (or seen) only had a two pin
>> non-grounding AC mains plug...same with VCR's, DVD's and every other
>> piece of consumer-grade home entertainment gear that I've seen or
>> owned.
>>
>> TV's get grounded by the shield in the cable connection.
>
> That may provide a signal ground for the video signal but that is not
> a power ground.

No, but it's the only ground which exists....
>
> Bear in mind that for most of the life of TV in the US the "cable
> connection" was a 300 ohm balanced twinlead going to a roof antenna.
> For me it's still going to a roof antenna, but the roof antenna is
> now a satellite dish, and the cable shield is grounded, but if there
> was a significant difference in ground potential between the
> electrical power and the shield ground, the shield would go up in
> smoke in no time.

Depends...potential (voltage) and current (amperage) are two different
animals. You could have a lot of voltage difference, but if there was not
significant current available, both systems when connected together would
simply go to the same potential, or voltage. That's *why* we ground things.

OTOH, while there may not be enough current available to 'smoke your coax,'
there 'could' be enough to damage delicate semiconductor junctions...the
possible source of the OP's problem.

jak
>
>> I had a cable
>> guy once tell me that something in my video system was causing a
>> difference in potential between ground and the shield on the cable
>> going into my house. He installed a 'DC blocker' which could only
>> have been an inline capacitor. He advised me to get the grounds on
>> my outlets checked...HA!
>>
>> jak

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

I work for a power company and one of the trouble calls I went on was to a
home where when the cable guy plugged the coax into a cable modem it was
causing a bad arc and blowing a breaker in the breaker box. The problem was
that the house had the old 2 wire type of wiring but, they had changed to
the newer type of wall outlets with ground. The problem was that they had
run the hot wire across the neutral connector and also into the ground
connector on the newer type of wall plug and had the ground wire going to
where the hot wire should have gone on the wall plug. A light on the same
outlet worked fine as it should have but, what can happen is that the
outside of the lamp which was brass becomes energized to around 120 volts.
This is no problem as long as the person is not touching a good ground and
the light at the same time. If you are wearing tennis shoes with good clean
soles you can touch 120 volt wires and never know it. A wood floor also
insulates fairly well. Anyway, the customer had already used one of those
plug checkers which plugs into a wall plug to tell you if it is wired
correctly. The plug checker showed that the wall plug was wired correctly
even though it was wired just the opposite of how it should have been. So
what was happening is that when the cable modem was plugged into the wall
outlet the case of the cable modem along with the shield side of the
connector became energized to 120 volts and when the cable guy plugged the
grounded coax into the connector on the cable modem it was causing a direct
short.
So theoritically if your tv was plugged into a wall plug that was not
wired correctly and your laptop were plugged into a wall outlet that was
wired correctly you'd have a direct short on the ground side of that S-video
cable. So likely the TV or the laptop may have been plugged into a wall
plug that was not wired correctly. Your home owners insurance might cover
such an electrical catastrophe or you might could turn it into your
insurance after the next big lightning storm ;x But, you didn't hear that
from me.

Ben

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

TV doesn't need a connection from internal TV power ground
to building's safety ground or building's earth ground.
Notice each ground, that may or may not be interconnected, is
specifically different. We define different purposes of each
ground. TV doesn't need nor provide a safety ground. That
S-video connection should have worked just fine - no damage -
on a TV with no safety ground. And again - what every poster
should note - to have his damage required multiple failures.

If the TV required a safety ground AND all TVs only have two
prong plugs, then no TVs have a UL approval. Damning fact.
TVs with only two prong plugs get UL approvals. TV doesn't
need a safety ground AND that coax wire connection does not
safety ground a TV. Furthermore the TV ground and that coax
ground are typically isolated to obtain UL approved.

Since we are posting long speculative reasons for his
failure, well here is another example. The cable TV coax was
not properly earth grounded. An electrical short inside the
neighbor's house put 120 VAC onto that cable ground. Now that
'hot' cable would not have been a problem IF the coax was
properly earthed. And even without that earth ground,
isolation inside the TV would have made that 'hot' cable
irrelevant. But a failure also existed inside the TV. Now
the 'hot' cable has connected into the laptop via S-video.
Multiple failures.

Yes, coax could even be a source of the damage. And that is
the point. We could fill the newsgroups with speculation only
on this poster's failure. That goes right to the point of my
every post. He must first provide more information. Based
upon facts as provided, not one person here can provide a
useful answer - no matter how technically accurate that answer
may be. Without facts - at minimum - from the 3.5 digit
multimeter, then every reply is nothing more than wild
speculation.

Every post except one from H. Dziardziel. If the OP does
not obtain necessary equipment - at minimum the multimeter -
and does not start asking questions from those who demand he
provide more information, then the OP must do as H. Dziardziel
has posted:
> You should disconnect everything from ac power including
> the surge protectors and and power strips and immediately
> ask a professional to check all in person

Who here is going to tell H. Dziardziel that he is wrong -
and still be a responsible human being.

There is so much wild speculation in this thread that some
even 'feel' a TV must be grounded. OK. Where is that third
safety ground prong? This missing prong is the smoking gun:
some here are posting without first learning basic facts.
TVs are not grounded. And all TVs with S-video connectors
should connect to that laptop without damage. To have damage
means the OP has multiple failures - that could also be
serious human safety problems. With so much wild speculation
- especially a silly idea that a TV must be externally
grounded - then the OP has little choice but to follow H.
Dziardziel's recommendation.

jakdedert wrote:
> J. Clarke wrote:
> ...
>> That may provide a signal ground for the video signal but that is not
>> a power ground.
>
> No, but it's the only ground which exists....
>
>> Bear in mind that for most of the life of TV in the US the "cable
>> connection" was a 300 ohm balanced twinlead going to a roof antenna.
>> For me it's still going to a roof antenna, but the roof antenna is
>> now a satellite dish, and the cable shield is grounded, but if there
>> was a significant difference in ground potential between the
>> electrical power and the shield ground, the shield would go up in
>> smoke in no time.
>
> Depends...potential (voltage) and current (amperage) are two different
> animals. You could have a lot of voltage difference, but if there was
> not significant current available, both systems when connected
> together would simply go to the same potential, or voltage. That's
> *why* we ground things.
>
> OTOH, while there may not be enough current available to 'smoke your
> coax,' there 'could' be enough to damage delicate semiconductor
> junctions...the possible source of the OP's problem.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

First of all, I'D LIKE TO THANK EVERYONE WHO RESPONDED to my post. I am
still very amazed to see how much help and advice I got from you guys
and to see the amount of time you have dedicated to help a pure
stranger like me.

So, again, thanks everyone.

As I am reading this thread, I realize that the problem is way more
complex that I thought it could be. There are tons of possibilities
which are far above my understanding of the subject. Just like w_tom
said, I am going to have to get a few numbers from a qualifed
electrician before posting any new information. To me, it seemed so
simple : it was the laptop since I never had any power problems before
and because my TV never fried my DVD player or VCR.

I am considering going to the small claims court with this story and
that's why I needed some good explanations about what happened. Now, I
really understand that I'll have to check my appartment electricity
before blaming the laptop.

It seems to me that you guys are quite interested by my story. I admit
that understand what happened is some kind of a challenge from a
technical point of view. So, if you're still interested, I'll post the
numbers when I'll have them.

By the way, I live in Montreal, Canada. I am a university student and I
really don't have the money to hire a specialist just to know what
happened to a 400$ TV (my laptop is on warranty). But I know someone in
my family who is an electrician, so I'll ask him to checkout my
appartment. The most important thing for me is to understand how I can
prevent this kind of incident and if I'll be able to try again my
S-Video port when my laptop will be repaired (I'm still waiting)
without destructing a new TV.

So, again, thanks everyone.

Gabriel.




dupuis_gabriel@yahoo.ca wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Recently, I had a big power surge problem involving both my brand new
> laptop and my less than two years old TV. Two total looses.
>
> My main concern is that I don't really understand what happened and,
> thereof, can't see a way to prevent it in the future.
>
> Here's the story :
>
> I bought a few weeks ago an HP notebook with an S-Video output. I
used
> my laptop (on battery and AC power) a week and a half before trying
the
> S-Video output and did not have a single problem.
>
> So, someday, I decided it was time to try to connect my laptop on my
TV
> by using the S-Video output. I bought a S-Video-to-RCA cable at
> Radioshack because I thought it would be more practical to have my
> laptop connected to the front RCA jacks of my TV.
>
> As soon as the contact was made, both my laptop and TV went off and I
> could smell a light odour of burnt electronic components. The TV did
> not seem to be damaged because I could turn it on almost immediately.
> As for the laptop, I simply had to reinsert the battery to make it
> start.
>
> Maybe it was very stupid, but I thought that the problem could be the
> cheap RadioShack cable. So I decided to buy a true S-Video cable.
>
> For my second try, I choose to not plug the laptop into the AC outlet
> and just use the battery. After connecting the laptop to the TV, all
I
> see is a black screen. By the way, I did not feel like there was a
> power surge problem this time.
>
> Days later, I really wanted to make my S-Video port work. So, I
> downloaded the latest devices drivers for my graphic card and gave
the
> S-Video output a new try with the laptop connected to the AC outlet.
> Not a good idea.
>
> Again, as soon as the contact was made, both my laptop and TV went
off
> and I could smell a strong odour of burnt electronic components. This
> time the damage was terrible. Both my laptop and TV are completely
> fried. There is just no way to make'em work anymore.
>
> So my questions are :
>
> 1) What happened ?
> 2) How could I prevent this kind of surge ?
> 3) Should I never try to connect a laptop to a TV ?
>
> I made a diagram of my living room electrical setup. You can see it
at
> this URL : http://home.ca.inter.net/~gdupuis/livingroomsetup.jpg
>
> I don't think that the problem is from my TV since it is almost new
> and because it never fried my DVD player or VCR. I guess the problem
> comes from my laptop, but I still don't really understand.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really need to understand
> since I don't know much about electricity.
>
> Thank you very much.
>
> (By the way, I am very sorry for the poor English. It is not my
> language.)

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

Hi,
I just experienced a problem similar to the original poster. i also
was hooking my laptop to my tv via an s-video cable. my laptop was on
AC power, connected to a different circuit than my tv. i plugged the
s-video cable in to the tv first, and then plugged it into my laptop.
as soon as i did so, there was a spark from my tv, with a small amount
of smoke. my tv no longer worked, but my laptop still does.

after i read these postings, i bought a circuit tester and tested my
outlets. the tv is connected to an ungrounded outlet. my laptop was
connected to an outlet with hot and neutral reversed. according to my
circuit tester, this outlet is the only one in my apartment with the
polarity reversed- but none of the outlets in my apartment are
grounded. i live in the US.

is having the polarity of this outlet reversed enough to cause the
problem?

is there extra testing that needs to be done with a 3.5 digit
mulitmeter, beyond what i've done with the circuit tester?

do i still need to call in an electrician to examine the rest of the
circuity in the apartment, or i can just fix this one outlet and be
done with it?

and is there a way i can test it all out short of plugging my computer
back into my new/repaired tv? i'd like to replace my electronics as
seldom as possible.

thanks!

-evan

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

Re: "> after i read these postings, i bought a circuit tester and tested my
> outlets. the tv is connected to an ungrounded outlet. my laptop was
> connected to an outlet with hot and neutral reversed. according to my
> circuit tester, this outlet is the only one in my apartment with the
> polarity reversed- but none of the outlets in my apartment are
> grounded. i live in the US.
>
> is having the polarity of this outlet reversed enough to cause the
> problem?"

Your situation is pretty extreme, but that combination could definitely
cause the problem.

I think that the circuit tester is telling you all that you need to know.

You have two outlets to fix, not one. But I'd use the circuit tester on
every outlet in the house. At that point, you need to assess if you
can fix it or if you need to call an electrician (it goes without saying
that you shouldn't try to fix it yourself unless you know what you are
doing).

[Hot and neutral reversed is a really serious issue that, in a few
cases, can present lethal shock hazzards]



evanpon wrote:
> Hi,
> I just experienced a problem similar to the original poster. i also
> was hooking my laptop to my tv via an s-video cable. my laptop was on
> AC power, connected to a different circuit than my tv. i plugged the
> s-video cable in to the tv first, and then plugged it into my laptop.
> as soon as i did so, there was a spark from my tv, with a small amount
> of smoke. my tv no longer worked, but my laptop still does.
>
> after i read these postings, i bought a circuit tester and tested my
> outlets. the tv is connected to an ungrounded outlet. my laptop was
> connected to an outlet with hot and neutral reversed. according to my
> circuit tester, this outlet is the only one in my apartment with the
> polarity reversed- but none of the outlets in my apartment are
> grounded. i live in the US.
>
> is having the polarity of this outlet reversed enough to cause the
> problem?
>
> is there extra testing that needs to be done with a 3.5 digit
> mulitmeter, beyond what i've done with the circuit tester?
>
> do i still need to call in an electrician to examine the rest of the
> circuity in the apartment, or i can just fix this one outlet and be
> done with it?
>
> and is there a way i can test it all out short of plugging my computer
> back into my new/repaired tv? i'd like to replace my electronics as
> seldom as possible.
>
> thanks!
>
> -evan
>

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

On 9 Mar 2005 20:31:03 -0800, "evanpon" <evanpon@gmail.com> wrote:

>Hi,
>I just experienced a problem similar to the original poster. i also
>was hooking my laptop to my tv via an s-video cable. my laptop was on
>AC power, connected to a different circuit than my tv. i plugged the
>s-video cable in to the tv first, and then plugged it into my laptop.
>as soon as i did so, there was a spark from my tv, with a small amount
>of smoke. my tv no longer worked, but my laptop still does.
>
>after i read these postings, i bought a circuit tester and tested my
>outlets. the tv is connected to an ungrounded outlet. my laptop was
>connected to an outlet with hot and neutral reversed. according to my
>circuit tester, this outlet is the only one in my apartment with the
>polarity reversed- but none of the outlets in my apartment are
>grounded. i live in the US.
>
>is having the polarity of this outlet reversed enough to cause the
>problem?
>
>is there extra testing that needs to be done with a 3.5 digit
>mulitmeter, beyond what i've done with the circuit tester?
>
>do i still need to call in an electrician to examine the rest of the
>circuity in the apartment, or i can just fix this one outlet and be
>done with it?
>
>and is there a way i can test it all out short of plugging my computer
>back into my new/repaired tv? i'd like to replace my electronics as
>seldom as possible.
>
>thanks!
>


I think you are missing the obvious solution here: don't plug your
laptop into a different circuit than your tv and then connect the two
of them.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: comp.sys.laptops (More info?)

 

In "Re: A S-Video connection fried both my TV and laptop! Answers needed!",
Chris Hill <hillco@earthlink.net> wrote:

>On 9 Mar 2005 20:31:03 -0800, "evanpon" <evanpon@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>I think you are missing the obvious solution here: don't plug your
>laptop into a different circuit [from] your tv and then connect the two
>of them.

I think you are missing the >safe< solution here: get his house wiring checked
by someone who knows what he's doing. A miswired outlet is potentially LETHAL.
(If the choice was up to me, I would also have all 2-pin outlets replaced with
properly-grounded 3-pin ones, even in N. America.)

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