Tried first boot, computer turned off after a second

So I attempted to install my new computer after getting all my parts in the mail. After installing the motherboard, processor, RAM, video card, and power supply, and hooking everything up, I was ready to try my first boot. I then got a flash of the "CPU is in 1phase power mode" LED, and all of the fans (case, processor, video card, and power supply) start for a brief second, but then the computer shuts off immediately afterwards.

Here are the components I presently have installed:

Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500K

CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply

MSI N460GTX Cyclone 768D5/OC GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 768MB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

MSI P67A-GD53 LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL8D-4GBXM

Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

I've included a picture of how everything is connected and set up right now, thought it might be of some use despite it being hard to see everything. Unfortunately the case does not have a speaker for the motherboard so I can't even go off the beep signals from the motherboard. I've tried booting without the ram, without the video card, without both, with only 1 ram in each slot, took off and placed back the cpu, but so far no luck, as the computer continues to shut down after 1 second. Any idea what the problem may be or what I could try to fix it?

any and all help appreciated!
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  1. Best answer
    Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    If not, continue.

    I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

    Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

    I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps:
    Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.

    A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

    Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
    At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
  2. I have exactly the same problem.

    I have build a new system, also with a new sandy bridge.

    Sandy bridge i5 2500
    8gb ddr

    After pressing the on-button the fans en leds light up, but after 1 sec everything reboots and powers up again and this repeats and repeats.

    *What i tried:
    Boot with only CPU - Exactly the same!
    Boot with CPU en Ram - Exactly the same!
    Boot with ONLY motherboard - Same problem!
    Boot with other 1155 motherboard of MSI - Exactly the same problem!
    Tried everything with the MSI bord described as above with the GIGABYTE bord.

    It is for me difficult to believe that it is related to overheating of the CPU because in 1 sec it shouldnt be possible. I also checked the sticky about boot problems om this website.

    Could this be related to the PSU?
    Or could this be somehow related to the CPU?
  3. As long as the cpu aux power and cpu fans are connected to the correct connectors on the mainboard, a 'DOA' PSU is always possible.....

    DOuble check that case/mb standoffs are in correct positions; an extra is a disaster!
  4. Standoffs are in correct position. Is it good to try the motherboard totally outside the system?

    Because i tried two motherboards, could it be related to the CPU somehow?
  5. I forgot to mention that i have an antec earthwatts 380 watt psu that is 30 months old. It is 80% efficient. This PSU should be enough right?
  6. Just built my first MSI mobo after always using Gigabyte.
    Must say the MSI manual is lacking in comparison.
    Make sure the ATX connection is properly seated it's marked on the mobo.
    The stupid plastic cover threw me off i removed that and plugged in the proper ATX cable not the 4pin.
    I built an 1156 and against my better judgement i went with MSI's dimm suggestions which were wrong btw.
    Switched back to my original ram placement and all was fine.
    So my initial problems were the wrong ATX connecter and improper ram placement.
    Should have went with my instincts and not followed the manual.
  7. Just went through the guide as suggested by jsc, and my power supply failed this test:

    Hopefully the psu is the only component with a problem, gonna see what corsair and newegg can do for me tomorrow.
  8. My psu was working in old system so i doubt this Will be THE problem for me right?
  9. Best answer selected by toxicity.
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