Need $600 Gaming computer build

Just to preface this,
This is the first time that I am building a computer and I am almost completely new to the topic of what parts and what systems would be good to have on a computer, as well as what the optimal prices would be in order to get a very functional computer. Any extra help would be greatly appreciated, and I'm sorry if any of the instructions are at all vague, it's just that I am very new and don't know things like what websites I want the parts from.


Approximate Purchase Date: Within this upcoming month (february)

Budget Range: around $600

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming (WoW and others like the new Diablo), school work (documents and powerpoints, etc.), internet surfing

All parts are required (But not the mouse or the keyboard if the price is too great)

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: None (Whatever is the most logical/reasonable/best)

Country of Origin: Does not matter (Once again, whatever is best)

Parts Preferences: No preference, I have open ears to all suggestions

Overclocking: Maybe (As long as the computer is fast enough and meets the recommended requirements for games like WoW and Star Wars: The Old Republic which is coming out soon that it is not necessary)

SLI or Crossfire: I barely understand what this is and will be doing some looking up terms later to figure this one out, but as long as the computer meets all the requirements I am good

Monitor Resolution: Not especially important, but I suppose something closer to 1024x768 that larger

Thank you
23 answers Last reply
More about need gaming computer build
  1. So you need a monitor operating system and the complete computer tower? Thats going to be tough for 600. I'll see what I can do.
  2. Well this is what I came up with. It's over budget. I can hack it down some more but you'll start to lose nice things like USB 3.0/SATA 6 GB/s which is good for future proofing. I can also hack down the graphics card some but once again, you might suffer in the long run.

    ANyways without further adeu: $795 before shipping and MIR

    Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 59.99
    PSU: Antec Earthwatts 500W 80 PLUS BRONZE 49.99
    CPU/Mobo Combo: AMD Athlon IIx4 640 3.0GHz AM3 CPU/Biostar 870 Motherboard 173.99
    Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 64 Bit OEM 99.99
    Hard Drive: Samsung Spinpoint F3 500GB 49.99
    Optical Drive: LG DVD-RW SATA w/ Lightscribe 19.99
    GPU/RAM Combo: Sapphire 6850 1 GB/OCZ Reaper DDR3-1600 2x2GB CAS 8 244.98 ($15.00 Mail in Rebate)

    Like I said I busted your budget. But when you look at what you lose to lower the price, imo it isn't worth it. For example to go from the Quad Core Athlon to a Triple Core Athlon you only save 20 dollars. And personally I'd rather have the extra core.

    But like I said if this is still too high I can hack it down some.
  3. here's my suggestion. It does lack USB3/SATA3, but sacrifices must be made:

    Athlon II X3 450: $80
    AS Rock 880GM: $60
    4GB RAM DDR3-1333: $40
    Samsung 500 GB HDD: $50 (same price as the 320G when you consider shipping)
    DVD Burner: $17
    Case: $55
    Antec EA 430W 80+ Bronze: $45
    GTX 460 768: $145
    Hanns-G 19" 1440x900 monitor: $100
    Win 7 64-bit Student: $30

    $622 total, including the OS.
  4. Very important question, do you have a Microcenter nearby? Check their website. You can get a Phenom II x2 and a motherboard (MSI 785GM-P45) that may unlock (~50%) to a Phenom II x4 for $99 (after rebate). That will save you $40 on the second build.

    Also, you can get a Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB (twice 500GB) for $55 off of plenty of websites (often Amazon).

    I wouldn't normally recommend using a PSU included with the case, but your budget is outrageously restrictive:
    That saves you $60 from the 2nd build.

    Get this monitor, because it looks good:
    This will cost you an extra $30.

    Then a Radeon 5850 for $170 (after rebate):
    That will cost you an extra $25.

    3GB RAM DDR3-1600 $44:

    Because of the lousy PSU, you'll probably need 1 extra 4-pin to 6-pin adapter and a 4-pin molex to sata adapter. So overall this setup saves you $55 over the second build and gets you a much better monitor, video card, and RAM. I'd use the $55 to buy a better PSU like this one:

    Of course, this all hinges on whether you've got a Microcenter nearby.
  5. Oh and btw, if you're wondering--a 5850 is easily better than a 6850.
  6. For standard resolutions of an 18.5" monitor a 5850 and a 6850 will both far exceed a 60 Hz refresh rate...
  7. Start with ScrewySqrl's build, then do some digging. You can probably get a Rosewill case for ~$40; any of their budget cases I've used have been fine.
    Then, for another $5, get the 500W Earthwatts (this price will probably not last).
    Under no circumstances should you attach a Logisys PSU to a computer, particularly one with a powerful graphics card.
    At a resolution of 1440x900, if you need to make temporary sacrifices to make budget, you could get a HD5750 or even a HD5670 and play with some settings lowered, until you can afford an upgrade.
  8. So i can most likely move the budget up to about $800 if necessary to get something that works well. The only question that i have is which of the builds above make the most sense with that new limit. Also, whether or not this would most likely be a computer that would last at least a few years running some of the more intensive online games without updates. Lastly, what operating system would you guys recommend, something microsoft or linux based?
  9. at $800, you MIGHT be able to squeeze in a sandy bridge build with one of the single x16 PCIe P67 builds, and add $30 to my monitor choice for a 21.5" Acer 1920x1080 monitor
  10. I stick by my build that came in at 795. But obviously I'm biased. ;)
  11. If you increase the budget a little, I'd look for USB3.0. Although you can get it on an add-in card, that is one feature that may add some future-resistance, depending on what high speed peripherals (like an external drive) you may ever want.
    There's no denying that Sandy Bridge is the fastest CPU you can get now, but there is also no denying that a much cheaper AMD X3 (or X4) can play any game out there, with performance at higher resolutions much more dependent on the GPU.
  12. just because this is a pretty important decision on what i end up getting, jtt283 and everyone else, which of the $800 builds above seemed the most solid. Also if you guys wouldn't mind, what type/what monitor should i be looking for?
  13. I use Acer and I like them. No dead/stuck pixels and they are relatively inexpensive.
  14. does it matter which monitor from acer in terms of compatibility or will any work?
  15. With a new graphics card, 99% will have a DVI out, and 99% of new monitors will have a DVI in. So if they both have this standard, they will be compatible.
  16. Ok so i just have one last question, is the build identified above a specific gaming build or could other changes be made in order for it to more gaming specified for the same price?
  17. Which build above? If its' the one I suggest then yes, it is most definitely a gaming build. Quad core and a good discrete graphics card with 4 GB of fast RAM with good latency.
  18. Any of those builds are suitable for games (except the one with the fecal Logisys PSU, which would probably blow up under load). Variances are mostly attributable to budget.
  19. pardon my noobieness, but what is the Logisys PSU
  20. Logisys is a company that makes fireworks factories disguised as power supplies :lol:
  21. ROFL!
    (or, their PSU-shaped objects are actually fireworks in disguise. Turning one on lights the fuse)
  22. we cant see your secure wish list jockey
Ask a new question

Read More

Homebuilt Computer Systems Product