First build Critique
Last response: in Systems
Well, title pretty much says everything, it's my first build ever so I'm hoping it's decent. I plan on doing some gaming, maybe some video editing (using my television as a monitor) and I was wondering if anyone could give me some feedback so I know if I made good choices for parts.
Case: Cooler master elite rc-310 steel / plastic ATX mid tower case
~
Motherboard: Asus p8p67 (not deluxe or pro, just the basic one)
~
Processor: Intel Core i5-2500 sandy bridge 3.3GHz (3.7 turbo boost) Quad Core
~
Graphics card: HIS Radeon 6950 2gb PCIe with crossfire / eyefinity support
~
PSU: Corsair 750tx SLI ready Crossfire ready 80 PLUS certified
~
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X series 4gb (2x2gb) DDR3 1600
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Harddrive: Seagate barricuda 500gb 7200rpm (Bare drive)
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Optical drive: ASUS DRW SATA 24x dvd burner
~
Extra case fans (just to keep things cool): 2x roswill RFX-120 case fans
In all honesty I don't think it's a bad build
Case: Cooler master elite rc-310 steel / plastic ATX mid tower case
~
Motherboard: Asus p8p67 (not deluxe or pro, just the basic one)
~
Processor: Intel Core i5-2500 sandy bridge 3.3GHz (3.7 turbo boost) Quad Core
~
Graphics card: HIS Radeon 6950 2gb PCIe with crossfire / eyefinity support
~
PSU: Corsair 750tx SLI ready Crossfire ready 80 PLUS certified
~
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X series 4gb (2x2gb) DDR3 1600
~
Harddrive: Seagate barricuda 500gb 7200rpm (Bare drive)
~
Optical drive: ASUS DRW SATA 24x dvd burner
~
Extra case fans (just to keep things cool): 2x roswill RFX-120 case fans
In all honesty I don't think it's a bad build
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LG DVD±RW SuperMulti Drive Black SATA Model GH22NS50B - OEM
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COOLER MASTER HAF 912 RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
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SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
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MSI N460GTX CYCLONE 1GD5/OC GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
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CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-650HX 650W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power ...
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G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBXL
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Intel BOXDP67BA LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
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Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500K
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Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - OEM
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This is my first build above I was going to get a MAC pro but its a little out of my price range. I think this is a solid build. A little excessive maybe in certain areas but I want something fairly quite that runs cool and is dependable for am a/v editing rig. Will not be over clocking or gaming will be doing some video but no 3d rendering pretty light projects, but heavier audio projects.
Yea, I do alot of online gaming, so I tried to keep everything under $1,300, I will deffinatly keep some of the parts on your list, the RAM, case HDD and PSU, and optical drive lol, may think on monitors but I dont think I would need 2 since I doubt I would use them much, might change cards but 2gb is always handy to have.
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Im far from an expert im new to this whole thing as well but from what I gather its better to spend the extra couple bucks for the 2500k if you plan on over clockin your rig because on non k CPU the memory and turbo boost multipliers are locked. You could get cheaper memory if your not going to over clock you can go with ddr3 1333 and save a couple buck there. depending on the intensity of your gaming you can get the h67 series board that has onboard graphics that will support basic setting on games like warcraft starcraft and such. A ssd is a good investment to put your operating system on it supposed to make your rig a little faster. As far as the psu it looks a little bigger then what you need if you go on corsairs website or several other websites they have psu calculators where you can inputs your parts and they will give you a.good idea of what you need. Corsairs are under rated from factory, and a great psu. Just some stuff to look at may save you a couple bucks, but like I said I am a beginner as well so I would defiantly get a second opinion. Good luck with your build!
LG DVD±RW SuperMulti Drive Black SATA Model GH22NS50B - OEM
COOLER MASTER HAF 912 RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
MSI N460GTX CYCLONE 1GD5/OC GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-650HX 650W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power ...
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL9D-8GBXL
Intel BOXDP67BA LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor
Intel X25-M SSDSA2MH080G2K5 2.5" 80GB SATA II MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
$1,077.41
And this is the tower itself without OS or monitors. It's a little easier to see in this format.
Best solution
No, it wasn't a bad build at all. This might be niggling, but the three things I might change are:
1. Case. The low-end Rosewill cases are nice. Fans are quiet, fit and finish is decent, and their quality control leaves Coolermaster in the cesspool.
2. PSU. A single GPU will need no more than 650W to be comfortably in the most efficient part of its range, or 550W to save money and still be quite sufficient. Corsair is decent, as are Antec and Seasonic.
3. If you'll use your TV as a monitor, that HD6950 will be overkill. Check the benchmarks of the games you wish to play. If getting a HD6850 leaves money in your budget for a 1920x1080 monitor, that would probably be the better long term choice.
1. Case. The low-end Rosewill cases are nice. Fans are quiet, fit and finish is decent, and their quality control leaves Coolermaster in the cesspool.
2. PSU. A single GPU will need no more than 650W to be comfortably in the most efficient part of its range, or 550W to save money and still be quite sufficient. Corsair is decent, as are Antec and Seasonic.
3. If you'll use your TV as a monitor, that HD6950 will be overkill. Check the benchmarks of the games you wish to play. If getting a HD6850 leaves money in your budget for a 1920x1080 monitor, that would probably be the better long term choice.
Well in all honesty the only reason I chose the 750w PSU was that I plan on adding some cold cathode lighting and extra fans to the case, and adding new parts down the line. On the graphics card, would there be much difference between the 6950 and the 6850? if I ever, say, get a Blueray drive for it later down the road, would it affect it much or not really?
(edit) would the Roswill Cruiser be a decent choice in case? because ( I know it sounds foolish ) i would dearly love a window in my first build just too see my handiwork in action
(second edit) What is the difference between an Intel i5 2500 and the 2500k?
(edit) would the Roswill Cruiser be a decent choice in case? because ( I know it sounds foolish ) i would dearly love a window in my first build just too see my handiwork in action
(second edit) What is the difference between an Intel i5 2500 and the 2500k?
There is still a lot to be changed:
650tx you don't need the extra efficiency
get mushkin silverline instead http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] -_-Product
Never buy Intel boards they absolutely suck spend a bit more for this asrock http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] -_-Product
Don't buy an SSD now the next-gen is coming in a month or two buy then, SSD isn't essential from the start it's a luxury not a necessity to a gaming rig.
Finally the video card I don't remember what res, if it is 1920x1080 I would recommend the amd hd 6950 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] -_-Product if it is lower your gtx 460 should do fine.
This is a critique I received on the parts list above hope it helps.
2255414,6,810340 said:
Im far from an expert im new to this whole thing as well but from what I gather its better to spend the extra couple bucks for the 2500k if you plan on over clockin your rig because on non k CPU the memory and turbo boost multipliers are locked. You could get cheaper memory if your not going to over clock you can go with ddr3 1333 and save a couple buck there. depending on the intensity of your gaming you can get the h67 series board that has onboard graphics that will support basic setting on games like warcraft starcraft and such. A ssd is a good investment to put your operating system on it supposed to make your rig a little faster. As far as the psu it looks a little bigger then what you need if you go on corsairs website or several other websites they have psu calculators where you can inputs your parts and they will give you a.good idea of what you need. Corsairs are under rated from factory, and a great psu. Just some stuff to look at may save you a couple bucks, but like I said I am a beginner as well so I would defiantly get a second opinion. Good luck with your build![/quotemessage]Thanks! Hoping to get it started when I get the money for it, which wont be for a while anyways. In response to the 2500k and overclocking, I don't see myself doing it, just dont see the need to.
(by the way, beginners gota start somewhere
)
Just a quick note, I have the Cooler Master HAF 942 and the fit and finish is immaculate - there is nothing I can criticize about the quality so far but I have not completed my build. The CM cases are also very highly rated. However, I cannot comment on the lower end CM cases as I don't own one but the CM RC-692-KKN3 is rated with 5 eggs at NewEgg and the HAF 932 goes on sale for $100 frequently and is very highly rated (it is huge though).
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Thanks.
Some of the HAF cases look tempting, but even my RC-690 had untapped screwholes, and the front doesn't line up quite right even when securely in place. With my next case probably in the $100-$150 range, I'm not sure I'm ready to risk another Coolermaster case. Many of their PSUs have liar-labels on them (overrated junk; read HardwareSecrets reviews of them), and I don't care to support liars and schlock-mongers.
Some of the HAF cases look tempting, but even my RC-690 had untapped screwholes, and the front doesn't line up quite right even when securely in place. With my next case probably in the $100-$150 range, I'm not sure I'm ready to risk another Coolermaster case. Many of their PSUs have liar-labels on them (overrated junk; read HardwareSecrets reviews of them), and I don't care to support liars and schlock-mongers.
I think every CM case I ever bought had some untapped screw holes.
Weak tool-less mounts, misaligned panels (to be fair, could have happened in shipping), individual audio wires rather than a block; I'm sure I can think of something else. All were minor, and all could be fixed, but I just got tired of it. None of the Rosewill cases I bought had ANY of these problems.
Weak tool-less mounts, misaligned panels (to be fair, could have happened in shipping), individual audio wires rather than a block; I'm sure I can think of something else. All were minor, and all could be fixed, but I just got tired of it. None of the Rosewill cases I bought had ANY of these problems.
Thanks for your first-hand experience - I respect comments from people who actually have had the products and used them. Considering the fit and quality of my 942 HAF it is difficult for me to understand some of the things that you are describing. The panels on the 942 fit/align perfectly. I have not tried the toolless optical bays and hard drive bays yet but other reviewers have raved about them and they appear to be strong. If they are not I will post again. I will know more after I finish my build. I got delayed by the 2600K chip issue.
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