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[Motherboards] Help picking a new mobo and confirming a problem

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Been trying to get this thing to work since the 28th of nov so I hope you guys can help. Do I have something that isn't compatible or what?

So I have a now dead ASRock 970 EXTREME3 on my new build and I'm looking for something to replace it as this is the 2nd one I've went though. So far I hooked everything up with the Asrock, and cut the comp on, I get no video or a post beep but all fans are running. When trying to power on the second time nothing happens at all.
I tested the PSU via paperclip and its working. I also tried to "jumpstart" the mobo thinking maybe my power button was screwing up and also get nothing.
So I'm replacing it with something else.

My build consists of: CPU: AMD FX-4100 Zambezi 3.6GHz
GPU: XFX Radeon HD 6870
RAM: Kingston HyperX 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
PSU: OCZ ZT Series 750W
Case: Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower

So I'm looking for a compatible mobo at around 80-100 bucks maybe a little more depending.

Big thanks for any help you can give. This thing is wracking my brain

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I've had the same problem recently, PSU turns on via paperclip. so I also suspected the mobo to be the problem but it turned out the PSU was defective, maybe supplying wrong voltages.
best thing to do in this scenario is to try to use known working components to find out whats broken.

P.S. it's an OCZ Modxtreem pro 600W

I thought the same thing but wasn't sure. I tried my old psu with my first asrock and it worked. Then I tried the OCZ and it also worked for a while before doing the same thing it's doing now. Now with this 2nd asrock it doesn't work at all past the very first time I turned it on. I haven't tried my old PSU with it though. Could the OCZ be frying the mobo?
Motherboard Expert

If you have a volt meter you could test the voltages. You can do a Google search or OCZ's web site to find the pinout of the main power connectors. I would focus on the 24 pin and 8 pin mains first. OCZ's are usually pretty good(mine is flawless so far), but even they can make a bad one now and then as can Asrock and everybody else.

You might also Google your mobo to see if there is maybe a bad batch out there or something. It can happen as well.
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tlmck said:
You might also Google your mobo to see if there is maybe a bad batch out there or something. It can happen as well.


I lack the means to really test the PSU at the moment. I can't figure out where I put my multimeter..

Starting to think it may be the PSU after all I mean 2 bad mobos in a row is possible but its also likely and maybe more so that its just a bad PSU.


So what are the chances that the PSU is actually frying the mobo with my first asrock my old PSU wouldn't work after switched back to it. And if it did fry the mobo what are the chances that it fried my other components? I can only return these things so many times. The last thing I need is a CPU/GPU turned into a paper weight.
Motherboard Expert

One other option would be if you have a local shop or Geek Squad or something that could test the PSU for you. It may cost a few bucks, but many will not charge for a quick test.

tlmck said:
One other option would be if you have a local shop or Geek Squad or something that could test the PSU for you. It may cost a few bucks, but many will not charge for a quick test.


I'm not near enough to get to the geek squad anytime soon and the local shop said "Oh no we can't do that. if it won't cut on its your power supply.. or the motherboard.. or a few other things." sigh

I'll just replace the mobo and the PSU. Can anyone recommend me some good ones that fit with my specs above?

Best solution

Motherboard Expert

I would get the PSU first. This one will do fine. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

If the mobo does turn out to be dead, I would get this one next. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... Basically the same, but a few more USBs, etc. and much better quality. I have been building these things for 24 years and used a variety of board brands, and in all those I never got a bad Gigabyte board. Cannot say that about any other brand, even ASUS. Plus I just like the layout of Gigabyte boards better.

If you do determine that the OCZ is bad, I would definitely send it back although OCZ would just likely send you a refurb. You could always keep it as a spare. Always handy to have for testing and such.

tlmck said:
I would get the PSU first. This one will do fine. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

If the mobo does turn out to be dead, I would get this one next. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... Basically the same, but a few more USBs, etc. and much better quality. I have been building these things for 24 years and used a variety of board brands, and in all those I never got a bad Gigabyte board. Cannot say that about any other brand, even ASUS. Plus I just like the layout of Gigabyte boards better.

If you do determine that the OCZ is bad, I would definitely send it back although OCZ would just likely send you a refurb. You could always keep it as a spare. Always handy to have for testing and such.



Do you think the mobo power cables on the PSU you linked are long enough for a case with a bottom mounted PSU?

Also it's a lot longer than my old one (It's 7.1 last one was 6.9) and it fit sort of awkwardly in my case. Part of the fan was past the hole for the fan in the case but not by that much. Don't want to burn it up because half the fan is covered. Although the problem with the OCZ could have just been where the fan was placed in the PSU.

I was looking at this one because of the size but half the comments are about getting them DOA http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Motherboard Expert

Should be fine on the cables. If you had a full tower case, you might need extensions which are cheap anyway.

It's difficult to tell from the pictures, but it does seem those holes on the bottom are cut awfully close to the back in that case. My Elite 430 has about a 5/8-3/4" gap before the holes start and they line up with my OCZ pretty well.

Not really a huge deal. You could always drill some more holes towards the center of the case. Won't hurt anything. Just be sure to dab the holes with a little paint or they could rust. Not much telling the quality or mix of steel Rosewill uses. A small bottle of modelers' or artists' paint and a small pack of cheap artist brushes from Walmart may set you back a whole dollar. Just make sure you get acrylic. Looks to be matte black from the pictures although since they will be covered it really does not matter. Even some clear nail polish will do the trick if you don't mind the silver showing. Just make sure you let it dry before installing the PSU.

tlmck said:
Should be fine on the cables. If you had a full tower case, you might need extensions which are cheap anyway.

It's difficult to tell from the pictures, but it does seem those holes on the bottom are cut awfully close to the back in that case. My Elite 430 has about a 5/8-3/4" gap before the holes start and they line up with my OCZ pretty well.

Not really a huge deal. You could always drill some more holes towards the center of the case. Won't hurt anything. Just be sure to dab the holes with a little paint or they could rust. Not much telling the quality or mix of steel Rosewill uses. A small bottle of modelers' or artists' paint and a small pack of cheap artist brushes from Walmart may set you back a whole dollar. Just make sure you get acrylic. Looks to be matte black from the pictures although since they will be covered it really does not matter. Even some clear nail polish will do the trick if you don't mind the silver showing. Just make sure you let it dry before installing the PSU.



Eh after all of these problems I don't think I plan on doing crossfire in the future anymore. I may just go with a 650w and save a bit of cash and on the plus side they're smaller.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6817139012
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