1st Build for Entertainment (movies ect)

First Off Let me say this, All you techies are awesome for this feedback on this site, I learned somenice lil tricks so far!!!!!!

This is my 1st build I’m confused about the memory and mother board being compatible……I have all of the parts picked out for my build (listed below) that I want to start in a week. The compatible memory For the Asus P7H55-PRO LGA 1156 micro atx says the standard memory is DDR3 2133 (OC)/1333/1066 on the newegg site (which I have no Idea what these #’s really mean) But I want to put 4gb of Kingston KHX1600C8D3T1K2 XMP Because I love Kingston and I did a little research so I think it’s fast memory, I also went to the Asus website and It said this memory was compatible, But I would like to know what you pro’s think before I start ordering! this memory going to be the best fit?

List of parts
Asus H55 pro-evo
i3 cpu (with intergraded graphics
Kingston KHX1600C8D3T1K2 (4GB)
(Same Memory for H55 evo mobo)
Blu-Ray Samsung SH-B123L
Asus DvD burner Sata
WD1600AAJS 160 GB Hard Drive SATA 3g and a WD 1t
Six hundred black case
Card Reader
power supply Antec EarthWatts EA750 750W

Thank you
29 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about build entertainment movies
  1. This build is all messed up please fill this out so I can fix it for you

    The main problem is that you are basing this build on the past generation of CPUs the newer h67 chipset should be the basis of your build
  2. LOL I was looking at this built for the last years and now it fell into my price range I was looking at. But now that you opend my eyes to the 1155 socket I kind of liked it better then the 1156! one question,(side note) do you think the corks are worked out of the new 1155 products?

    Here is the new list I came up with but the asus website doesnt have a memory support list for these new mobo's but this is what I selected.....Thank you!

    Approximate Purchase Date: By 2/10/11
    Budget Range: $650-$800
    System Usage from Most to Least Important: watching movies and music
    parts Not Required: keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers
    Preferred Website(s) for Parts:
    Country of Origin: United states
    Parts Preferences:
    G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666)l F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM $47
    ASUS P8H67-M LE LGA 1155 Intel H67 Motherboard $100
    Intel Core i5-2400S Sandy Bridge 2.5GHz (3.3GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 BX80623I52400S $204
    Blu-Ray Samsung SH-B123L $ 75
    Asus DvD burner Sata $19
    WD1600AAJS 160 GB Hard Drive SATA 3g $ 37
    Six hundred black case $ 65
    OS Win 7 $100
    Card Reader
    power supply Antec EarthWatts EA750 750W $80

    Overclocking: No
    SLI or Crossfire: no
    Monitor Resolution: using LCD TV 1080p
    Additional Comments: I would like it to have very few problems lol
  3. Best answer
    First of all, not all the problems are worked out yet.

    Intel Discovers Bug in 6-Series Chipset: Our Analysis

    Second, the integrated graphics on sandy bridge are not that great. The ones worth getting are only available on the 2500k and 2600k processors and those are out of your price range. I would just stick with what you originally had and grab a discrete graphics card that is passively cooled.

    SAPPHIRE Ultimate 100294UL Radeon HD 5550 1GB

    Also, a 750w PSU is way more then you will ever need. I would recommend saving a little money and getting a 400W or so.

    Antec EarthWatts Green EA-380D Green 380W
  4. I might hold off on any P67 or H67 based boards, they have all have a physical hardware defect.,12108.html

    Edit: dangit jedi you beat me by 11 seconds.
  5. I hate when that happens. Especially if I have spend a lot of time on a post with links and everything. Sorry :)
  6. Can I ask why I need to get a Graphics card? I thought the i3 chip has intergraded Graphics and I would be able to get 1080p out of just the chip (so says they on the website… Plus I wanted a 750w power supply just in case I upgrade years from now, but if you say I only need a 400w I can save even more money because I already have a 400w Antec supply (No SATA tho :pfff: ) from my old as dirt tower that took a huge dump on me 2 weeks ago lol (8 years I had it)

    Just so I get this right…I should go with the old set up and it should work, even with the Kingston ddr3 1600 memory I had questions about?

    I looked into those p67 mobo and you have to admit, they are some good looking boards
  7. oops I ment to say H67 bad
  8. Yea, you should be able to use it without a graphics card. I used AMD's 708G integrated for my HTPC for a while. I just like to have a little extra graphics horsepower in my machines. Not necessary I suppose.

    Yea, your old setup should work fine.
  9. For a minute there I wanted to get the G-skill ram because it’s cheaper but I’m kind of fond of the Kingston and I think I might get better performance out of it…

    I will put the order in so I can get this build started….Thanks for the feedback
  10. O.K. I Have my computer all put together and I started to wire it up and I case across a problem.......

    I have a some wires coming from the front panel of the case that has +5v, D-,D+, G writen on it, and I have no Idea where it gets pluged into? I thought it was for the system warning speaker But I don't inderstand what the D means.

    Can someone answer this for me....Thanks
  11. It is most likely either for the front panel audio or USB. I would guess audio. Look in your motherboard manual for where you connect front panel audio and USB. It will show you a picture with all the pins labeled. Just look for connection that matches the wires you have.
  12. I did that and I can't figure this out for the life of me......

    The 4 pin connector from the Case is labeled +5v, D+, D-, G and the MOBO(pin cluster) for System warning speaker is Labeled +5v,G,G, S (for speaker)....
    I went to the Antec website and they said I might have to reconfigure the connector. But I still don't no what the D's stand for on the case connector?

    I also read somewhere on the web that I would have to set the connector up like this +5v, (nothing), G, D's. Both of the D's on the same pin

  13. But there is also a tag on the connector from the case that says 2.0 usb3.....what does this mean? but the antec site says it's for the system warning speaker! confused
  14. what motherboard did you get?
  15. I have an Asus H55 with a Antec six hundred case.....................
  16. I am pretty sure that connector is for the USB. It will go on one side of the USB headers. The pin configuration should be in the correct order. 5v at one end, ground at the other and the (+) and (-) in the correct location in the middle.

    the Antec six hundred has 3 USB 2.0 connections on the front. Each set of 4 pins will connect 1 usb port. Ports 1 and 2 might have come as a single connector with 8 pins. The third port (the one you are questioning) is labeled as 2.0 USB3 for the 3rd USB 2.0 port. That will simply go on one side of the USB headers on the motherboard.

    The connector should connect to the circled pins
  17. So I started my computer without hooking up the speaker connector! everything starts fine......BUT, here is the problem, It shows the Asus bios screen (when I am holding down the DELET key) and it goes from the Asus screen to a nother screen asking me to press enter to boot from a CD? as I have the asus driver in the Deck, i press enter then it is a black screen and say ---welcom to Asus motherboard make a DOS menu?

    Did I miss the Bios screen somehow?
  18. Sounds like you missed it. Usually, motherboards will start up with a splash screen showing the logo. If you push del during that screen, it should change to a black screen showing the memory and detected hard drives. If it changes, usually that means that it recognized the key press and will take you into the BIOS.

    If it already shows you the memory test and drives detected, at the bottom of the screen, it usually tells you what key to press. When it recognizes the key press, it usually changes text to something like "entering BIOS" At least mine does, but its a gigabyte board. Haven't used an ASUS for a couple of builds so I don't remember exactly what happens.
  19. I did it a few time and I miss it every time lol!

    I'm wondering if it's the hard drive
  20. I Got into the bios! you were right, my timing with the DELET was off.....I was holding it down to early!

    Next is the operating system........

    Thanks Guy
  21. glad you got in. Good luck. Just post if you have any more questions.
  22. Another question:

    So I played my first movie!
    It wasn't as good as i thought it woud be, I think because I had it hooked up to my 46" lcd tv with no video I looked into a nvidia card that cost around $116 -130, ddr3-5, 1gb, with around 128 plus processor speeds..

    does anyone think this is a good idea to get a great picture for watching movies?
  23. The integrated graphics should be good enough to work on your tv. I have used integrated graphics for a tv without issues.

    Why didn't it look as nice as you thought. Is it not showing a full screen picture? Is the display fuzzy?
  24. It was really joggy! if that makes sense?

    I think I found the problem, I updated the driver and the picture looks really good now. Another problem is I can't get the blu ray player to work now. I did a little digging and found alot of people had the same problem, it looks like it is an OEM part and newegg thinks everyone has the driver. Now I'm looking all over the internet to find the driver for the Samsung blu ray player.... This sucks
  25. Sorry for your troubles. At least the picture issue has been fixed. Don't have a blue ray drive so I can't be of much assistance there. It's all part of the joy (or pain) of building your own PC.
  26. LOL...True true.

    I will find something in time..............
  27. I Got into the bios! you were right, my timing with the DELET was off.....I was holding it down to early!
    When you want to get into the BIOS, just hit DEL repeatedly upon power up, no need to "time it".
  28. So I was digging into this whole blu-ray situation and I found you need 3rd party software for these blu ray drives to work!

    The good news is I found PowerDvd 10 to be ahead of the pack as far as solid software program also found it for $50 on e-bay (normally cost’s $100)

    Now I’m in the thick of this build and 1 step closer to a solid entertainment tower!!!!!!!!!!!!
  29. Best answer selected by YoungBuck.
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