First-time builder here experiencing some serious difficulties that I can't diagnose or repair.
CPU: Intel i5 2400
Mobo: Asus p8z68-v LE
GFX: Asus Ge Force GTX 560 Ti 1Gb
PSU: Antec EA 650 Green 650W
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB
SSD: Crucial M4 128GB
Case: Fractal Design Core 3000
I put this together last weekend and all was working fine, apart from one minor issue: the BIOS would not "see" my SSD drive in the boot order list, so I couldn't get it to automatically boot my OS from it. However, it was possible to select it from a "manual override" list, so that's what I did. And everything was totally normal, aside from that.
I tried to fix this minor issue by using the graphical drag-and-drop boot order list where it showed my regular HD and something labelled "N/A". I thought maybe this was my SSD, just mislabelled. So I moved that to top priority.
Since doing that, I have not been able to get the computer to POST once. I don't get any signal to my monitor at all.
When I power up, all fans spin (including CPU) and the DVD drive whirs. Then the DRAM LED comes on at solid red. It remains in this state until I turn it off.
I have tried a variety of things:
- Pressed the memOK button: The LED blinks, the system reboots itself, fans turn on, LED blinks, then reboots again. This then repeats until I power the system down.
- Checked that everything is seated properly and plugged in.
- Attempted to clear the CMOS via the battery and jumper pins. I expected this to solve the problem - as it appeared like a BIOS setting broke it - but it doesn't make any difference. (For the record, I took the CMOS battery out for about 6 hours even though most places seem to recommend 2-3 minutes.)
- Tried a different PSU (but exact same Antec model). No change.
- Checked RAM in different configurations, no change.
- Have also unplugged all USB connectors (had a wild theory that the "N/A" in my boot menu was a USB drive). No change.
There is no apparent damage to any part, no smoking, exploding, popping or anything like that.
I just don't understand how it could malfunction so badly after it was working fine. The building process was relatively smooth too.
So, I'm at a bit of a loss now and fearing that somehow I damaged the motherboard. Any help much appreciated.
CMOS: Did this following instructions in the video, both the jumper pins and the battery separately, no change.
SATA: Did this, no change.
Removing GTX 560: Here's where it gets interesting (in a bad way!). I took out the GTX and then as I put the power cable back in the PSU, it crackled, shorted/surged and blew the fuse in the plug. I don't have a spare fuse at the moment to replace.
This is interesting because this exact same thing happened to me last weekend - but with a different PSU and kettle lead. I actually assumed the fault was with the "old" Antec unit, so I requested a replacement from Amazon, which they speedily fulfilled. I was also slightly cavalier with the kettle lead last time and I foolishly pulled it during a memOK cycle (since it was in a reboot loop), so I assumed that it was my stupid timing that broke it. This time, though, I was simply putting the cable back in the PSU.
What could possibly be going on? Is the motherboard shorting? Do I have something wired up dangerously? Why would this happen to two completely separate PSUs and two completely separate kettle leads? I am really confused (and concerned) by this!
Will buy a new fuse tomorrow and report back. I think I actually broke the previous kettle fuse; even with a fuse change, it wouldn't work with the "old" or the new PSU.
Not sure if this added detail is relevant: Both Antec PSU's have had "sticky" on/off switches. When you press it to the "off" position, they don't click off. Seemed strange to me, but I guessed it was a design feature since both of the units had the exact same thing. So I was constantly getting slight crackles when inputting and taking out the kettle lead, even if I held it to the "off" position.
Oh, and just to clarify: I didn't think it was important to mention the fuse woes in the first post as I thought it was just a one-off and I had "solved" that problem by getting a new kettle lead. I also didn't want to confuse the issues. But with this happening again, surely it must be related?
Obviously, this seems to be a short. However, the short might be originating from the GPU, or at least as it seemed to be from the info as I read it.
Therefore, 'if it were me' - get the new fuse, and remove the MOBO from the case and 'breadboard' it on a piece of cardboard e.g. MOBO's box. Next, only add the RAM, CPU and Stock HSF. IF you added your own Thermal Paste then make 100% sure it didn't squeeze out and get on the CPU pins. Further, often a misplaced standoff or I/O can cause a short -- they MUST 100% line-up properly. In the first post use the onboard iGPU and have the GTX 560 off to the side.
If it boots okay next add the SSD/HDD then last the GPU. If all works then you know it's you case. If the case has the 'punched-out' pseudo standoffs then use (2) layers of electrical tape. In my builds I use thin plastic washers on top of the standoffs secured by a tiny bit of silicone.
IMO - get a 'few' fuses just in case. Also, try a different outlet and test it with something like a 100W lamp.