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May have fried motherboard

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January 16, 2012 9:34:06 PM

I was overclocking my phenom II x4 840. After running prime95 for about 10 minutes my computer shut down and won't start back up. My cpu temps were around 48-49C.

I took out my video card and one of my memory sticks and sometimes when i hit the power button the lights on my fans will flash briefly, and then shut back off. No beeps or video is showing up.

I was looking around the internet for similar problems and I found that it might be my motherboard, and maybe the psu?

If anyone has any advice on how to fix this it would be appreciated!

specs:
mobo: MSI 760GM-P33 AM3 AMD 760G Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
psu: XIGMATEK ACXTNRP-PC602 600W ATX12V Ver.2.3 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
cpu: phenom II x4 840
2x2 gigs g skill ram

More about : fried motherboard

January 17, 2012 2:31:42 PM

if it can't be fixed I wouldn't mind going to a 990x or 990fx mobo anyways, but i just wanted to make sure that it cant be fixed so i wouldnt have to drop $130 right now

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a b V Motherboard
January 17, 2012 3:00:10 PM
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I would try by first unplugging everything, then replugging it back in. Also have you tried taking the CMOS battery out of your motherboard, leaving it for 5-10 mins, then plugging the battery back in?

It is possible that the motherboard or CPU could have died. But I don't know about the PSU since you mentioned the fans and lights flash on briefly. You also mentioned 49C which doesn't seem that hot.

Do you have a spare PSU to try out?
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a c 156 V Motherboard
January 17, 2012 3:50:59 PM

Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.
The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU. Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU. At this point, if you do not have a system (internal case) speaker, you really need one.


Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps, LED's, or fan activity:

Check for line power at the PSU input. Extension cords, power strips, and power cords do fail.

If you have power and no beeps, suspect components in likely order are PSU, motherboard, and CPU.

Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
January 17, 2012 3:51:44 PM

i havent tried taking out the cmos yet but i definitely will when i get home from work.
If it was just the cpu then wouldnt it at least boot into the bios?
and no I dont have an extra psu =[

the phenom II x4 has a max temp of ~70C, most people keep it under 60C load, so I'm sure the cpu temp is fine, I wasn't looking at the motherboards temps tho
January 17, 2012 8:04:31 PM

UPDATE: took out the cmos for a few minutes and then put it back in and tried to restart my computer and i heard a pop and smelled something burning. opened it up and one of the transistors popped.
so it looks like its time for an upgrade!
January 17, 2012 8:04:50 PM

Best answer selected by lessthanflawles.
a b V Motherboard
January 17, 2012 8:11:43 PM

Oh wow yikes. Usually clearing the CMOS doesn't do that sort of thing - it sets the motherboard back to default (everything).

Did the pop occur on the motherboard? And do you mean capacitor, (usually a little round thing on the motherboard, or sometimes square) and not transistor?

Anyways - try not to breath any of that stuff in - and if possible air out the room where the pop occured.

But in hindsight, maybe overclocking might have stressed out your components on your motherboard (which is highly possible).

Either way - sorry about what happened, i feel guilty now that I told you to try taking out the CMOS battery and it killed your motherboard(?)!
January 17, 2012 8:45:15 PM

haha no worries, clearing the cmos I'm sure wasn't the problem, I must have damaged them when overclocking.

and I'm pretty sure it was a transistor. it was one of these little guys:


I dont have a camera on me but half of mine is missing! lol I'm pretty sure it fell behind my desk when I took the motherboard out.

but anyways thanks for the advice, and it would probably help for some other people who didnt already ruin their parts! =]

edit: link doesn't work, but it was the square thing which im pretty sure is a transistor
!