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I think i fried my 2600k

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May 23, 2011 5:53:18 AM

I have a i7 2600k with a p8p67 pro and have left it overclocked to 4.5 for about a month or two now and havent had any problems until now except every once in awhile my computer would warn me saying its at 1.55 volts (i left voltage on auto) but that would normally go back down quickly. This morning my computer just randomly shut off. At first i thought it was a power surge or something but every time i would go to turn it on it would shut right back off in about a half second. After trying everything i went and purchased the maximus iv extreme to try to narrow down the problem. Now when i try to boot up i get no beep or anything on the screen but on this mb there are troubleshooting leds and the cpu led stays red. I just wasted 400 on this motherboard and just found out microcenter no longer takes back motherboards for returns please dont tell me i have to buy a new 2600k too hahahaha

More about : fried 2600k

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May 23, 2011 5:55:52 AM

overclockiing wont ruin your pc, but a careless one would.
What was your average temps during the time of usage?
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May 23, 2011 5:59:51 AM

around 34 C i have a liquid cooled setup, the highest i have ever seen it was 48 C and thats under heavy load
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May 23, 2011 6:00:04 AM

once the pc was properly cooled, you should be fine, but since the cpu leds on the new board say a problem, u might have to accept the inevitable, try the cpu on a cheap board
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May 23, 2011 6:02:17 AM

xaira said:
once the pc was properly cooled, you should be fine, but since the cpu leds on the new board say a problem, u might have to accept the inevitable, try the cpu on a cheap board


i already tried it on two boards my p8p67 turns on for a half second and the maximus iv stays on with a red cpu led and no post. I really dont want to have to buy another 2600k hahaha
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May 23, 2011 6:04:07 AM

Does anyone know how intel is with RMAs?
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May 23, 2011 6:05:23 AM

willmoser said:
i already tried it on two boards my p8p67 turns on for a half second and the maximus iv stays on with a red cpu led and no post. I really dont want to have to buy another 2600k hahaha



You could try to check for burn marks.CPUS are built strong so it is not a big possibility but if you could check for a small burn mark then yeah why not?

You could also check if your cpu psu four pin connector is also seated in properly.
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May 23, 2011 6:26:50 AM

in my experience, more expensive boards tend to be more finicky because there are so many customisations, cheaper boards tend to be set to stuff that cant be changed, and as a result, be more stable, well, as one last test, drop another working 1155 cpu in thse boards
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a c 115 à CPUs
May 23, 2011 9:48:50 AM

well for a start you never overclock with auto voltages, you set all your voltages manually even if your not gonna change them. the reason for this is that if you leave it on auto the bios will adjust voltages to what it thinks the cpu might need, not to what it actually needs. on a 4.5 oc theres no reason to go over 1.35 if its done correctly.
so the chances are your cpu has developed a fault and its most likely in the mmu...
return it under your warranty. and hope they dont blame you for it failing.

a dead cpu? turn off the pc at the wall. turn on the monitor and wait for no signal. time it to see how long it takes to go into standby. it should be around 7 seconds.
now turn the monitor on and as soon as you see the no signal message turn the pc on. if the monitor immediately jumps into standby the cpu is dead... i know your pc wont power up but it should still send the signal to the monitor to go into standby mode... as its basicaly telling it theres no cpu present.
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May 23, 2011 9:56:29 AM

It's not likely the overclocking did any damage to your CPU. I don't mean to be condescending, but I dont'know what your experience level is so here are a few basic options:

- did you drop the CPU correctly in the socket
- is your motherboard fine with the memory you are using (compatibility list)
- did you attach all the necesary powercables to your motherboard and videocard (if required)
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a c 172 à CPUs
May 23, 2011 10:11:19 AM


Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.
The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
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a b à CPUs
May 23, 2011 3:35:55 PM

What about resetting the BIOS? Would that not clear any overclocking settings and allow for a 'vanilla' boot?

I'm not sure about the above, I've just not seen it posted. Someone more knowledgeable than me could yay or nay it?
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May 23, 2011 4:23:00 PM

ghnader hsmithot said:
http://files.myopera.com/MoodyB/albums/516650/i7_socket_burn.jpg
You could try to check for burn marks.CPUS are built strong so it is not a big possibility but if you could check for a small burn mark then yeah why not?

You could also check if your cpu psu four pin connector is also seated in properly.



Thats what that discolor ration is oh damn... See my 2600k has a big ones of those on the right side of it, and i cannot hold any stable over-clocks anymore but it never BSOD with normal settings--


Intel rma is easy contact intel lol, as long as you kept the stock heat sink and box.
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May 23, 2011 4:24:56 PM

cia24 said:
Thats what that discolor ration is oh damn... See my 2600k has a big ones of those on the right side of it, and i cannot hold any stable over-clocks anymore but it never BSOD with normal settings--


Intel rma is easy contact intel lol, as long as you kept the stock heat sink and box.

Have you tried to stress test your cpu?So that you can confirm as to why your cpu cannot overclock properly.
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May 23, 2011 4:26:22 PM

ghnader hsmithot said:
Have you tried to stress test your cpu?So that you can confirm as to why your cpu cannot overclock properly.



4.8ghz stable in prime for 24 hours. stable in all the test I have done, Any game that I play will crash and BSOD after 5-10 min, I am not the only one with this issue though there are a few other people that have the same issues.
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May 23, 2011 4:29:30 PM

cia24 said:
4.8ghz stable in prime for 24 hours. stable in all the test I have done, Any game that I play will crash and BSOD after 5-10 min, I am not the only one with this issue though there are a few other people that have the same issues.

alright link to me your thread that you have started so that i dont hijack this thread if not you could start a thread.I could help you answer your question.
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May 24, 2011 6:44:31 PM

Yes everything was connected properly and the cpu was properly seated. I tried a new power supply i had sitting in my closet that has never been used and still no luck. I also looked at the bottom of the processor and couldnt find any darkness spots or anything irregular of anykind but by elimination (cant be mb or ps) it has to be the cpu so i started an rma with intel but i have no idea if it will go though or how long it will take so i opened up a credit acount and did some one day shipping on newegg for a new one hahahahahaha thank god i have good credit cause im too broke to buy it hopefully intel sends me a new one that i can sell to pay off the one i just bought.
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May 24, 2011 6:49:20 PM

1.55v is way to high for 4.5 ghz. Some of it depends on the chip, but my i7 2600K is stable @ 4.5 ghz @ 1.3v. Currently running 4.6 ghz @ 1.32v

Don't use auto overclock if voltages are running high
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May 24, 2011 6:57:23 PM

bearclaw99 said:
1.55v is way to high for 4.5 ghz. Some of it depends on the chip, but my i7 2600K is stable @ 4.5 ghz @ 1.3v. Currently running 4.6 ghz @ 1.32v

Don't use auto overclock if voltages are running high


yea i learned that the hard way haha but i deffinitly wont do it the lazy way when i get my new one
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May 26, 2011 8:26:42 PM

WOW god hates me. I decided to swap the mb out again and got a new maximus iv along with my new 2600k and everything worked great..... for 30 minutes. Then my pc shut itself off again and now when i press the power button nothing at all happens, the mb lights are on but the power button does nothing. FML!!!! what do i do now? should i call corsair and tell them that the HX850 is frying every mb i give it???
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May 27, 2011 2:29:41 AM

willmoser said:
WOW god hates me. I decided to swap the mb out again and got a new maximus iv along with my new 2600k and everything worked great..... for 30 minutes. Then my pc shut itself off again and now when i press the power button nothing at all happens, the mb lights are on but the power button does nothing. FML!!!! what do i do now? should i call corsair and tell them that the HX850 is frying every mb i give it???


It sounds more like your PSU went bad. Something could have killed it. Strange though as all Corsairs have built in surge/power loss protection. In fact from your first post thats what I thought more than the CPU or mobo.
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June 7, 2011 6:35:01 PM

Best answer selected by willmoser.
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June 7, 2011 6:37:44 PM

jimmysmitty said:
It sounds more like your PSU went bad. Something could have killed it. Strange though as all Corsairs have built in surge/power loss protection. In fact from your first post thats what I thought more than the CPU or mobo.


I purchased the AX1200 along with another new MB and now all is good. I returned all the broken MB's to the store and am RMAing my HX850 along with a damage claim for a new p8p67 pro.
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