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Noobie needs HELP Case connections

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Anonymous
a b ) Power supply
May 27, 2011 10:12:18 AM

Well, I thought my mobo was faulty, but i tried another and that had the same problem...

Its a new case and I have the power lead thing connected to the mobo (that little one) when I press power on the case, the fans turn, lights go on, for about 1/2 a sec then everything turns off, so wtf im so lost atm

May 27, 2011 10:44:54 AM

Quote:
Well, I thought my mobo was faulty, but i tried another and that had the same problem...

Its a new case and I have the power lead thing connected to the mobo (that little one) when I press power on the case, the fans turn, lights go on, for about 1/2 a sec then everything turns off, so wtf im so lost atm


I think it is correctly connected, if not it must not power on at all, so i think is a faulty mobo or PSU. It sounds like the PSU is weak and the overcurrent protection switchs off. ¿Do you need to disconnect from mains to switch on the second time?
a b ) Power supply
May 27, 2011 11:16:33 AM

sounds like you have the reset switch linked to the power headers, are you sure you've got the right ones connected?
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Anonymous
a b ) Power supply
May 27, 2011 12:24:28 PM

I was wrong, I did everything right, its either the cpu or mobo, had a feeling too :/  oh well. Hope its the mobo as the cpu was off ebay and dunno what the guy will be like I have contacted him too. I said from day 1 the cpu looked suspicious lol
May 27, 2011 1:50:19 PM

If you think its the cases power switch, u can just bridge the 2 pins with a screw driver for a split second since thats all the case button does anyway. It should start... make sure you have a speaker plugged into your mobo. that would probably throw a code if theres an error. Also take the CPU out and check for bent pins.
a c 274 ) Power supply
May 27, 2011 5:47:53 PM

Most likely the 4/8pin cpu power lead.
If your mobo requires an 8pin lead use it.
a c 144 ) Power supply
May 29, 2011 2:07:23 AM

System specs?

Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.
The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
!