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$1200 Home Recording Build

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March 2, 2011 6:28:14 PM

Attempting to figure out what I should buy/opinions on what I've selected/etc. If I haven't selected a part, I've put why I haven't or what I'm thinking about it. I haven't made too many choices yet, though I've been doing a lot of research. The problem being that, since I've never done anything like this, I'm afraid to start making definitive selections. Anyways, here it goes.

Budget: $1200, can go over, but would prefer to go less if possible.
Purchase Date: ASAP.
Goal: A PC for home music recording as the primary task. I'm going to be running a Pro Tools set-up with an MBox, so I can probably save some money on a sound-card for now by using the motherboard audio. A friend does this and said there's no noticeable difference. I do a little photoshop work, but nothing elaborate. I also play a few games, but nothing too resource intensive. Needless to say, the visuals are a spot where I can save a little money.

Parts:

Case-

I'm unsure as to what I need for a case. Something inexpensive. I don't need the prettiest enclosure on the market.

PSU- Newegg.com - XCLIO STABLEPOWER 500W 500W ATX Active PFC Power Supply
I wanted something with a larger fan since, being a recording pc, quiet is better. Price: $70

CPU-Newegg.com - Intel Core i7-950 Bloomfield 3.06GHz 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor BX80601950
I was told that I should spend more on a bad-ass processor now in order to save me trouble in the future. About the only things I came up with for requirements were: Quad core, Intel, & 64-bit compatible. Price: $280

MOBO-Newegg.com - ASUS Sabertooth X58 LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
I'm just kind of guessing on this one. There's most likely a better option but I'm unsure of what I should be looking into. Price: $200

HD1-Newegg.com - Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Oft recommended to me for my storage hd. Don't see why not. Price: $90

HD2-Newegg.com - Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC064MAG-1G1 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
I want a solid state drive for my os. I'll also be bringing whatever my current pro tools project would be on to this while i'm working on it to take advantage of the speed. Price: $125

RAM-Newegg.com - CORSAIR XMS3 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model TR3X6G1600C9
Another shot in the dark here. Price: $75

Vid Card- Newegg.com - JATON Video-PX8400GS_LX GeForce 8400 GS 256MB 64-bit DDR2 PCI Express x16 Low Profile Ready Video Card
Something on the less expensive side. Price: $41

Sound Card-
Don't need at this time

OD-Newegg.com - LG Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM SATA DVD Burner - Bulk - CD / DVD Burners
Picked a random one. Price: $20

Keyboard/Mouse-Newegg.com - Verbatim 96983 Piano Black 2.4 GHz Wireless Slim Keyboard and Mouse
Wireless just because. Price: $35

Monitor- Newegg.com - Hanns·G HZ194APB Black 18.5" 1366 x 768 5ms Tilt Adjustable WideScreen LCD Monitor w/Speakers 250cd/m2 10,000:1
I don't need a beast of a monitor. Price: $95

Subtotal - $1031
OK! Let's hear some critiques/input! As I said before, I'm new to this. What else do I need in order to have a working machine? Will I be able to connect to the web? What about temperature? Do I need anything to combat high temp? Haha, basically... What next?

~jd.
March 2, 2011 8:34:06 PM

Hello ZMdHtr606;

I think a 1600x900 monitor is the lowest you want to go. 1366x768 is just such amount of screen real estate for working IMO. Acer S201HLbd Black 20" 5ms LED-Backlight LCD $115 $20 more for 1600x900 and better LED backlight & 13.5W power usage (vs CCFL in the Hanns-G 28W power usage)


Video card: ASUS EAH5450 Radeon HD 5450 512MB 64-bit DDR2 PCI Video Card $40 & $10 rebate

Keyboard/Mouse: Unless you get a Piano Black case think about a keyboard that won't show fingerprings so easily
PSU: You can do better on PSU quality and price than that Xclio: XIGMATEK 400W ATX12V 80+ BRONZE Power Supply $35

Antec Three Hundred Illusion Mid Tower Case $55 & free shipping

What does that ASAP translate as? Some pretty nice Sandy Bridge stuff coming out quite soon.
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Related resources
March 2, 2011 10:13:13 PM

How soon is quite soon
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March 2, 2011 11:25:33 PM

If you wait a month there's going to be some seriously different and perhaps better options on the market (Sandy Brdige mobos).

64gb is too small for the SSD. Go ~120. Samsung F3's are the recommended drive right now, though there's nothing wrong with the Caviar Black.

All motherboards have onboard ethernet, which is plug a cable in the back style. If you want wireless, that takes an add on card (not difficult).

Extra fans depends on what case you pick out and what fans it comes with stock.
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March 2, 2011 11:52:28 PM

A good chance we'll see some stock before the end of the month.
They've been spotted in some of the 'usual places' over in Asia at retail shops.
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March 3, 2011 1:33:32 AM

WR2 said:
Core i5-2400 Sandy Bridge 3.1GHz (3.4GHz Turbo Boost) Quad-Core CPU $195
ASUS P8H67-M LX LGA 1155 Intel H67 SATA 6Gb/s Intel Motherboard est $110
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 2 DDR3 1600 RAM $65
Your SSD/HDD/ODD choices
The XIGMATEK 400W PSU and Antec 300 case.

~$850 before any rebates, taxes and shipping. Add a copy of Windows 7 64bit for $100



WR2,

In this post I see you're using the H67 mobo. Are you suggesting that he take advantage of the integrated video in the I5 chip, or were you planning on him still using the discrete card?
I'm not challenging the concept or anything, just wanted to be clear b/c I'm putting together some alternate selections for some components with the idea of getting this PC as quiet as possible given the home recording use. I was thinking of suggesting that he try it with integrated video to start, with a video card waiting off to the side to be purchased if he decides that he wants it later.
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March 3, 2011 1:33:39 AM

As of right now, there isn't a pro tools that is compatible with windows 7 (unless if it came out very recently). also, i'm going to probably go with a dual monitor system.
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March 3, 2011 1:43:09 AM

CopaMundial said:
I was thinking of suggesting that he try it with integrated video to start, with a video card waiting off to the side to be purchased if he decides that he wants it later.
Yes I was thinking the HD 2000 Graphics on the CPU.
And I always suggest if you can wait till you figure out if you need something - and then add it - you don't end up paying for something you didn't really need.
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March 3, 2011 1:47:10 AM

ZMdHtr606 said:
As of right now, there isn't a pro tools that is compatible with windows 7 (unless if it came out very recently).
Is it a Win7 issue? Or a 32bit/64bit issue? I have some really ancient programs running in Win7/32bit.

So you're more interested in WinXP? Or Linux?
You can actually have more than one OS on a system.

I'm a long time dual monitor user and a big fan. I think once you learn the ropes it can really help your productivity.
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March 3, 2011 1:47:36 AM

ZMdHtr606 said:
As of right now, there isn't a pro tools that is compatible with windows 7 (unless if it came out very recently). also, i'm going to probably go with a dual monitor system.


Do you already have a copy of Pro Tools? If so which version?
For the 'm-powered' stuff (for use w/ Mbox) I think they started Windows 7 support @ ver 8.0.4. The newest version is 9, and I think that lists only windows 7 (well, aside from MAC).
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March 3, 2011 1:55:43 AM

i'm not sure what the reason is, only that many people are upset about it.

Do I need to worry about that sandy bridge processor recommended above as far as the recalls are concerned?
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March 3, 2011 2:06:10 AM

ZMdHtr606 said:
i'm not sure what the reason is, only that many people are upset about it.

Do I need to worry about that sandy bridge processor recommended above as far as the recalls are concerned?


The recalls were not on the processors themselves, they were on the chipset that's part of the motherboards. They had an issue where they would stop talking to SATA hard drives.
That recall is the reason you couldn't find those motherboards for sale yet, but the wait is nearly over because the first boards are starting to show up on NewEgg now (as in there are 5 to choose from, within a week there will probably be 20 to choose from).
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March 3, 2011 2:09:07 AM

no i dont have pro tools yet, was only going by what a colleague had told me. if new pro tools is windows 7 compatible then disregard my previous statement :) 
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March 3, 2011 2:17:26 AM

updated parts list:

Case-COOLER MASTER Elite 430 RC-430-KWN1 Black Steel / Plastic Computer Case
I could probably save money and get something different than this… Price: $50

PSU- CORSAIR Builder Series CX430 CMPSU-430CX 430W ATX12V Active PFC Power Supply
Price: $40

CPU-Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500K
Price: $230

MOBO-Asus P8H67-M LX LGA1155 MicroATX Motherboard Intel H67 Chipset EPU DDR3 USB3.0 SATA 3Gb/s 7.1CH HD Audio
Price: $110

HD1-Newegg.com - Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Price: $90

HD2-Newegg.com - Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC064MAG-1G1 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Price: $125

RAM-Newegg.com - CORSAIR XMS3 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model TR3X6G1600C9
Price: $75

Vid Card- Newegg.com - PowerColor AX3450 256MD2-HV2 Radeon HD 3450 256MB 64-bit DDR2 PCI Express 2.0 x16 Low Profile Ready Video Card
Do I even need this? Or does my mobo have a built in vid card that will suffice? Price: $30

Sound Card-
Don't need at this time

OD-Newegg.com - LG Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM SATA DVD Burner - Bulk - CD / DVD Burners
Price: $20

Keyboard/Mouse-Logitech Cordless Desktop EX 100 Black 102 Normal Keys USB RF Wireless Standard Keyboard and Mouse
Price: $30

Monitor 1- Acer S201HLbd Black 20" 5ms LED-Backlight LCD monitor 250 cd/m2 ACM 12,000,000:1 (1000:1)
Price: $115

Monitor 2- Acer S201HLbd Black 20" 5ms LED-Backlight LCD monitor 250 cd/m2 ACM 12,000,000:1 (1000:1)
Price: $115

Subtotal - $1030

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March 3, 2011 2:22:29 AM

ZMdHtr606 said:
updated parts list:

CPU-Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500K
Price: $230

RAM-Newegg.com - CORSAIR XMS3 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model TR3X6G1600C9
Price: $75



If you're changing to the Sandy Bridge chip, then you'll want to change to a dual-channel memory config.
Here's the set WR2 recommended above
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-4GBXM
$65 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

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March 3, 2011 2:31:09 PM

I've been getting a few people suggesting that I go with a RAID setup rather than use that ssd (because the ssd isn't really helping anything in my current setup). I'm still pretty fuzzy on what exactly a RAID setup does, and why it would be that much more of a benefit.
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March 3, 2011 2:38:45 PM

Did they say RAID1 (for data security) or RAID0 (for speed).
RAID0 is faster than a single HDD but slower than a SSD.

What is your current setup, what SSD do you have, and why isn't it helping?
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March 3, 2011 2:47:43 PM

ZMdHtr606 said:
I also play a few games, but nothing too resource intensive
What type of games would those be?

Im liking the Intel HD 2000 video chip built into the CPU a lot better than that $30 3450 video card. $30 3450
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March 3, 2011 2:50:59 PM

Intel HD 2000 is actually more powerful, and a better fit to your whole system than that HD 3450 card would have been.
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March 3, 2011 7:07:03 PM

this is my current planned purchase list

Case-COOLER MASTER Elite 430 RC-430-KWN1 Black Steel / Plastic Computer Case
I could probably save money and get something different than this… Price: $50

PSU- CORSAIR Builder Series CX430 CMPSU-430CX 430W ATX12V Active PFC Power Supply
Price: $40

CPU-Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500K
Price: $230

MOBO-BIOSTAR TH67+ LGA 1155 Intel H67 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
Price: $105

HD1-Newegg.com - Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Price: $90

HD2-Newegg.com - Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC064MAG-1G1 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Price: $125

RAM-G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-4GBXM
Price: $65

Vid Card-
Using the cpu vid to start since I’m not making this for the graphics and since this is easily upgradeable in the future.

Sound Card-
Don't need at this time

OD-Newegg.com - LG Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM SATA DVD Burner - Bulk - CD / DVD Burners
Price: $20

Keyboard/Mouse-Logitech Cordless Desktop EX 100 Black 102 Normal Keys USB RF Wireless Standard Keyboard and Mouse
Price: $30

Monitor 1- Acer S201HLbd Black 20" 5ms LED-Backlight LCD monitor 250 cd/m2 ACM 12,000,000:1 (1000:1)
Price: $115

Monitor 1- Acer S201HLbd Black 20" 5ms LED-Backlight LCD monitor 250 cd/m2 ACM 12,000,000:1 (1000:1)
Price: $115

Subtotal - $985
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March 3, 2011 7:09:54 PM

games would be mostly half life mods like cs, tf2, and dod.
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March 3, 2011 7:15:04 PM

here's what two guys have said about it "Myself, I would use the Black for the main drive, and a blue of equal size, for backup, and forget the SSD until the price is reasonable.
Or 2 Blacks in a RAID0, and a blue the size of the combined blacks.
But with the RAID0, all you need is 3 blues, as 2 blues in RAID0 are faster than 1 black in non RAID"

and

"I would also skip out on the SSD, you really won't notice a benefit and especially at that price. I would spend the money on another HDD and setup RAID like mentioned.

The SSD will do little for you, real time backup of your important music projects can be a life saver.

Edit: If you're still set on the SSD I would suggest buying a larger capacity drive. 64GB is so little to work with, or is it just me? Maybe I just install too many programs?"
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March 3, 2011 9:46:54 PM

I have to be honest. Im scratching my head and wondering...
If you 'really won't notice a benefit" with a SSD wouldn't that also true of RAID0 which is slower?
RAID1 (data security) slowest of all.

How would those options work out on price?
Right now your list is at $215
RAID0 2x 1TB Black and 1x 2TB Green = $295
-> or 2x Blue 500GB & 1x 1TB Green = $145
RAID1 2x 1TB Black = $180
No Raid: 1x 1TB Black and 1x 1TB Green = $155
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March 4, 2011 4:23:22 AM

i'm scratching my head and wondering... what does it all mean
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March 4, 2011 11:24:19 AM

ZMdHtr606 said:
i'm scratching my head and wondering... what does it all mean


It means there's not a clear cut reason for one or the other.
Which in general is a good sign that you should just not do either one right yet.

Get your PC built first, and keep that ~$125 from the SSD in your pocket. Once you're up and running you'll see the real world performance of your system. If something is lacking then you can address it at that time and you'll be $125 along the way to paying for it (well $165 if you consider the $$ you're saving by not buying video card atm).

Here is the order that I would consider as your 'down the road' shopping list:

1) An external backup solution.
Sure, your friend had a good point that RAID 1, 5, or 10 all provide some data security. But that shouldn't be your primary backup. If you have something on your PC that you would hate to lose (music you've created, photos, your address book, compromising photos of your ex) then you need a second copy of that stuff off of your computer. Some stuff is manageable by burning a copy to DVD, but if you're beyond that then look at any number of the backup drives. Preferably ones that you plug into PC, they backup automatically, and then you unplug them. My advice is to get in the habit of doing your backups maybe every week or so... but when you're not using it keep that backup drive someplace else (ie your mom's house or stuffed under the couch at your friends apartment) so that fire/flood/theft can't get both of your copies at once.
You should do this one either way, regardless of whether your machine is running fast or not, but some people like to spend their money on performance first and then see what's left to spend on backup solutions. Nothing wrong w/ that approach.

2) Video Card
We left this off of your build b/c the focus is primarily on home recording and integrated graphics on your CPU should probably be sufficient. Once you're running you may decide to play a game on this system that just doesn't cut it on integrated graphics. If that's the case then you can pull the trigger on a decent video card at any point later and it's simple to install.

3) More RAM
If your machine is slower than you wanted, adding more RAM will be a more noticeable (and more easily applied) improvement than an SSD.

4) SSD
By the time you've done 1, 2, and 3 the cost of SSD's will have dropped again and you will have had at least months of time to research Tom's Hardware articles and posts in the 'Storage - SSD' forum that you will fully understand the requirements for getting the most out of an SSD.


Also, one other note.
We have you going for the motherboard with the 'H67' chipset (as opposed to the other popular choice of the 'P67'). The reason there is that type motherboard allows you to take advantage of integrated graphics on your second generation I5 cpu.
But at the same time we have you down with a I5 2500k processor. The (K) designator means that it's unlocked for more flexible overclocking. But motherboards w/ the H67 chipset are not able to take advantage of that flexibility.
So in your case (with the H series motherboard) there would be no functional difference between the 2500k and the vanilla 2500. So get the I5 2500, and save another $20 (*edit*) or step up to the I7 2600 @ $299... which would be more in keeping w/ your original intention of getting the meanest CPU you could get.

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March 4, 2011 12:31:51 PM

CopaMundial laid that out nicely.

Here is some background on the Sandy Bridge HD 3000/HD 2000 graphics and Quick Sync high performance video decoder.
THG: Sandy Bridge’s Secret Weapon: Quick Sync
AnandTech: A Near-Perfect HTPC

There is a catch. If you install a graphics card you won't have access to the HD3000/HD2000 IGP.
And as CM mentions you don't have access to the unlocked multiplier method of overclocking. You can still bump up the CPU speed in the as the THG article explains: Overclocking: Sandy Bridge Changes The Game.
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March 4, 2011 8:06:50 PM

i like the step-by-step plan. I already have an external hd that i've been using with my laptop. If that is the way i go about doing things, which hds should i buy to start off with? Also, I think i'm going to go with the i7 2600 right off the bat. Do I need to change anything else then? Also, since i've never even seen a dual-monitor setup, i'm unsure what i need. Is there an adapter or something similar that I need so that I can plug both in? I'm unsure what overclocking is though it seems like most pc guys do it? Doesn't it void your warranty/make the system less stable? A little explanation would be awesome! And finally, where do I find a tutorial for putting everything together? I want to read through it and make sure that I've got everything I need (specifically some of this arctic silver stuff someone mentioned in another forum)
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March 4, 2011 9:18:27 PM

ZMdHtr606 said:
I'm unsure what overclocking is though it seems like most pc guys do it?
It does seem that way when you're hanging out around these forums. But the exact opposite it true. The majority of PC owners never overclock. But when you hang around with the 'enthusiast' types you often find in the forums it's easy to think that.
The simple explanation of overclocking is that it makes the CPU (or video card) faster than it came from the factory. "Extra speed for free"

The THG article it did a pretty good job of explaining the difference between the K (unlocked multiplier for high overclocks) and the non-K version (locked multiplier and limited overclock ability) Overclocking: Sandy Bridge Changes The Game
No doubt you've read and watched the discussion about adding after market CPU coolers and high performance thermal compound (Artic Silver 5).

Warranty/Safety & Stability. The Intel Warranty never mentions overclocking but the legal mumbo jumbo gives them an option to reject a warranty claim if they detect signs of overclocking. But this should not be an issue for all but the most 'extreme overclocking' attempts. Mild overclocking is usually very safe & stable and does not require a lot of effort in learning. Many motherboards have an 'easy button' or some software that allow you to overclock. As you increase the level of overclocking you increase the risk to the hardware & stability which is why so many enthusiasts spend the extra $$ on top end cooling and premium parts (PSU, motherboard, RAM, gaming cases with extra cooling fans).

Guides to building:
Here is a Step-by-Step Guide to Building a PC

Look over the forum's "System won't boot" checklist to see some of the common build errors and how to avoid them.

-> The usual advice; read the manual / install guide; look at the parts, read the manual again and if everything makes sense and looks right - then go ahead with the install.

While you're waiting you can download the online version of the motherboard manual and start getting familiar with it. Same for the other parts you want to order if they have install guides or manuals available.
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March 4, 2011 9:43:21 PM

ZMdHtr606 said:
Also, I think i'm going to go with the i7 2600 right off the bat.
Would that be the i7-2600 & H67 motherboard option or the i7-2600K with P67 motherboard and a video card?

Setting up and running dual monitors is very easy. http://www.microsoft.com/athome/organization/twomonitors.aspx

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March 4, 2011 11:56:27 PM

Regarding overclocking, you can dovetail that into the earlier discussion of things that you do right away vs things you do later.

Here's my theory on overclocking.
No one needs overclocking on a brand new system.
You've already made a big step up in speed over your old system, so just enjoy it. Later when the 'newness' of your PC has started to fade, and you're itching for an upgrade THAT'S the time where I advise people to look at overclocking.
For example if you run this system for 12-18 months in this config... and then later you toss in a video card, some RAM, and some overclocking it will be a great mid-cycle upgrade.
If you do stuff like that right up front the boost you get from it is hidden by the overall larger boost from the new system in general. So if you do those sort of boosting steps mid-cycle then you'll get the following benefits:

1) Spread out the cost of the system.
2) A noticeable improvement that can hold you over and satisfy your itch to upgrade (sometimes enough to spread out your next purchase... where you may have purchased 3 systems over 'X' years you can get by with only 2).
3) Give you a video card that's more likely to be transportable to your next system... cutting down your cost and allowing you to get into a tic - toc sort of pattern w/ your systems where you upgrade CPU/Motherboard on the 'tic' cycle and video card + overclocking on the 'toc'. Doing it that way allows you to buy higher end gear b/c you're concentrating your funds better.
4) If you do, by some freak chance, manage to cook your CPU with overclocking (which really is rare, and getting even more rare w/ some of the automated utilities available)... then you've burnt out a chip that you were already growing tired of anyway. That's a lot less soul crushing than sitting there realizing that you just killed a 3-day old CPU.

Regarding which drive to buy, I think you're fine w/ the build you listed last time w/ the following corrections.


ZMdHtr606 said:
this is my current planned purchase list

Case-COOLER MASTER Elite 430 RC-430-KWN1 Black Steel / Plastic Computer Case
I could probably save money and get something different than this… Price: $50

PSU- CORSAIR Builder Series CX430 CMPSU-430CX 430W ATX12V Active PFC Power Supply
Price: $40

CPU-Intel Core i5-2500K I7 2600 Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600
Price: $230$300

MOBO-BIOSTAR TH67+ LGA 1155 Intel H67 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
Price: $105

HD1-Newegg.com - Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Price: $90

HD2-Newegg.com - Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC064MAG-1G1 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Price: $125


RAM-G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL7D-4GBXM
Price: $65

Vid Card-
Using the cpu vid to start since I’m not making this for the graphics and since this is easily upgradeable in the future.

Sound Card-
Don't need at this time

OD-Newegg.com - LG Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 16X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X

CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM SATA DVD Burner - Bulk - CD / DVD Burners
Price: $20

Keyboard/Mouse-Logitech Cordless Desktop EX 100 Black 102 Normal Keys USB RF Wireless Standard Keyboard and Mouse
Price: $30

Monitor 1- Acer S201HLbd Black 20" 5ms LED-Backlight LCD monitor 250 cd/m2 ACM 12,000,000:1 (1000:1)
Price: $115

Monitor 1- Acer S201HLbd Black 20" 5ms LED-Backlight LCD monitor 250 cd/m2 ACM 12,000,000:1 (1000:1)
Price: $115

Subtotal - $985$930
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March 7, 2011 2:06:06 PM

So you are saying not to use a second hard drive?
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March 7, 2011 2:50:50 PM

ZMdHtr606 said:
So you are saying not to use a second hard drive?


Correct. I would advise one drive now, with your options open to add a drive later if you feel that you need either more space or more performance (from an SSD specifically).

We've brought you in at $930, with room to adjust later as needed. That's $270 under your initial $1200 budget, so for now I would put that money into your purchase of your ProTools / Mbox.
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March 7, 2011 4:50:19 PM

I was wondering what you thought of that psu? I'm worried about it after reading reviews. There were almost as many 1-egg vs 5-egg reviews (on newegg obviously) and quite a few references to noise, smoke, etc.
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March 25, 2011 4:19:49 PM

Is that what "B3 stepping" means?
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March 26, 2011 12:11:31 AM

ZMdHtr606 said:
Is that what "B3 stepping" means?


B3 stepping is a reference to the fix that was required to the 'cougar point' chipset on the LGA1155 motherboards. The first release of those motherboards had an issue where some motherboards, over time, would stop communicating with devices on their SATA II ports. That motherboard chipset issue was the source of a lot of delay for people waiting to build systems with the Sandy Bridge CPU's. The CPU's were fine, but you couldn't buy motherboards for them.
Motherboards marked as 'B3 Stepping' have the fix applied to prevent that issue, so they are good to go.
Any motherboard for sale from a reputable source at this time will have that fix applied.
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