No Display Output + Mobo wont register any USB

Firstly, excuse me if this is in the wrong section of the forums.

A little background: I built a computer fairly recently in fact, only a month or so ago, i have built two before this one so I have a rough knowledge of the inner workings of building. I built this computer for my daughter as i was sick of having Facebook Viral Apps, and sims 3 all over my second PC.

The system itself has been running for 2 months now with out any issues at all, in fact i was impressed at how the i-5 matched up to my i-7. Last night i installed a further 2 x2gb GSKILL DDR3 RAM, which i knew ran with my chipset well as it is the original that was in the system! I installed with no issues it just slotted rite in, as any routine RAM upgrade does!
Unfortunately this seems to have created me more issues than the $60 RAM was worth i now have some heavy stability issues, in fact i can't even get the system to POST, well i say that it could be posting, i just can't see it.

Now i have:

-No Display "No Signal" I can see the monitor is registering the cable as when i remove it it changes to "No Cable Connected"
-No USB input My Mobo refuses to register that there is a USB cable in there no output at all.
The system sounds and looks as if it is going through the phases of booting up, and continues to run.

I followed the troubleshooting guide on no display, and to no avail.
I have tested my GFX card and RAM in my other system, and also the power supply, all worked perfectly well and normal.
I removed the new RAM and returned to the old RAM and still NO OUTPUT.

Could By motherboard have been shorted? I'm so pissed it's not everyday your 1000 PCS go wrong!

Also i wear a anti static wristband!
I have also tried to reset the CMOS and i have tried the on-board display. NOTHING.
No overclocking done!

Please help me :((((((

My Specs:

Gigabyte H57M -USB3
Corsair TX 650w
Intel I5 - lGA 1156
WD caviar Green 1.5TB
MSI R5770 Hawk Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit
CM storm Case
GSKILL 2 X 2GB F3-12800CL9D DDR3
7 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about display output mobo wont register
  1. Installing RAM while the mobo is mounted can sometimes be dangerous. Due the force required to install RAM securely into the socket, pushing on the mobo can sometimes cause enough flexing to damage the mobo. Still, that doesn't mean we can't try a few things just be sure.

    First, breadboard the problematic system.

    1. Remove ALL connections to the mobo, except for the heatsink fan
    2. Remove ALL of the hardware YOU installed to the mobo, except for the heatsink/cpu
    3. Remove mobo from case
    4. Place mobo on a non-conductive surface, such as phonebook
    5. Install just one DIMM
    6. Connect the PSU to the mobo (both the P1 and the P4) - Remove the PSU from the case, if need be
    7. Connect the monitor to the mobo via on-board VGA/DVI
    8. Using a flathead screwdriver, or similar tool, jump the PWR_SW pins on the mobo.

    Do you get a display? If not, then shut down the system and move the currently installed DIMM to a different slot, and turn on again. Do this until you've cycled through all DIMMs in all slots. While you're doing this, jot down any observations.

    If the breadboarding did work, you've likely got a short in the case, or while installing the RAM, you may have dislodged, hit, or otherwise misadjusted something. Also check your wiring, make sure there are no frays.
  2. Thank you for your very detailed response.
    Sadly, I already bench tested on the Mobo box, and installed the sticks on by one.
    With the PSU connected. still no luck.

    The GFX card functions perfectly on my other system so i ruled that out.

    The on board will not display, normally i'd say the power supply was faulty but i tested it in my other system and it worked normally?

    Is it possible i damaged the mobo whilst installing the RAM?
    I'm at a loss here, considering buying a new MOBO to test, because i think ive damaged it!

    With my testing and observations i've whittled it down to the
    CPU OR mobo, which would be more likely?
  3. Mobo is always more likely to be faulty. In your case specifically, the CPU was not touched, physically or otherwise. If the mobo is only a few months old, why not get some warranty on it, rather than buying a new one?
  4. THE CPU was not touched, nor removed from it's socket.
    I have been reading reviews on the current motherboard i have, a few months later seems allot of them have been failing, i may do both as i need to purchase a new motherboard for another build.

    I just hope it will solve the problem, because i am at wits end about this situation.
  5. Best answer
    Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    If not, continue.
    The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

    I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

    Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

    I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps:
    Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.

    A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

    Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
    At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
  6. Hello JSC, thank you very much for your very detailed breakdown.
    I resolved the issue in the end, i tested the mother board with parts i have laying around, it was dead.
    So i RMA'd the mother board and then decided i'd upgrade to the P55, one week on running smooth and crisp.

    Thank you very much for all your help, this community should be proud to have some of the best experts in the field!

    Once again, thank you!

    Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread: [...] t-problems
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    The above is fantastic and helped me get to the end goal!
  7. Best answer selected by horribly1.
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