What motherboard for i7-3930k with 8 ram slots should i choose?

Hi there,

I am getting myself a new computer with a i7-3930k, but I'm in doubt about what motherboard to go for.

Originally I was planning a Gigabyte X79-UD3 but I think it would be nice with 8 ram slots so that I can get install 16GB extra memory later if I want (may not need it, but I'm using lots of memory when doing 3d work in maya, photoshop etc. - so I figured it would be nice with the option).

Then there's a X79-UD5, but also an Asus P9X79 (standard edition) where the latter is the cheapest one. However, I can't find any reviews of this Asus board as it seems only to be the pro or deluxe edition being reviewed.

Saw a review of the UD3 here on Tom's hardware where it was recommended as much as a P9X79 Pro, but I don't know what I should choose considering that I'd like the option of more ram later? :)

What do you think?
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  1. Currently, there's a C2/Vt-d 'bug' with the SB-E and so far only ASUS are immune. Plus 'I' only like the 8xDIMM MOBOs.

    The ASUS P9X79 (2-WAY SLI, less SATA ports, no ASUS SSD Caching, ALC892) and ASUS P9X79 Pro (3-WAY SLI, Marvell 9128 2xSATA3 slow ports, ASUS SSD Caching, Bluetooth, ALC898). Both are very similar otherwise so I'd expect the same results and perhaps even the vanilla ASUS P9X79 outperforming a tiny bit where 'less is more' from bandwidth shared paths. They should OC the the same; same Phase power.

    I've been 'learned' not to rely on so called 'Review(ers)/(s), trust me I felt like tracking one down and giving them a swift kick.

    Further, other than listing "3d work in maya, photoshop etc." I don't see any of the ASUS's being a problem, but I do see others being a potential problem.
  2. Thanks for your reply.

    Regarding the Asus SSD caching - is that feature even relevant considering the fact that I will be using a SSD for OS and most other programs (apart from games)?

    And isn't the cooling supposed to be better on the Pro too due to some heatpipes?

    I'm not sure if I understand your last comment correctly - you think the fact that I will be doing 3d work can be a problem? 3d work is definitely the main reason why I'm buying a new computer - gaming is the second, less important, reason :)
  3. I am not a fanboy of SSD Caching, so that should answer that question. Cooling I generally prefer the X79's with active cooling to the chipset. If you want a better MOBO then ASUS P9X79 WS, Sabertooth X79 or perhaps the ASUS R4E X79. You're clearly budget conscious, sure it would be nice to get a Ferrari for the cost of a Corvette... Problems are MSI, Gigabyte and other X79's 'now' high temps/high vCore, maybe once the C2 corrected Intel SB-E are released it won't be a problem for non-ASUS X79's. Rendering has nothing to do with 'problems' just manufacturers.
  4. Ok it was just that you said "other than listing "3d work in maya, photoshop etc." I don't see any of the ASUS's being a problem" that confused me before :)

    Anyways, do you think it would be worth it to go with a more expensive board such as the Sabertooth?
  5. If you have an older version of Maya e.g. 'w/ Dongle' then I like the ASUS P9X79 WS with its' internal USB port. I have the Sabertooth X79 it's fine, but I'd need to know more about your 'other' H/W, future H/W and expectations before recommending one or the other. As far as what I've seen so far any of the ASUS X79's will do the job.

    I'm sorry about the confusion above, sometimes I type too fast and the fingers and the brain are out of sync.
  6. Hehe np :)

    I'm using Maya 2012, and have no plans of using older versions. Additionally I'll be using Photoshop CS5, Nuke and Mudbox, maybe ZBrush too - and I can't deny that I enjoy gaming too :) But as I mentioned gaming is only second priority.

    As for other hardware I am planning on buying an assembled PC this time that I am able to customize quite a bit (and I wouldn't really save much by assembling myself anyways).

    CPU: i7-3930k - the shop sells it OC'ed to 4.0 GHz (guess it's easy to do myself, but haven't really been into oc'ing before and I'm not paying extra for it)
    Memory: 16GB Kingston HyperX 1600
    GPU: For now just my old GTS250, but will replace it with the upcoming nvidia cards equivalent to a GTX570 or GTX580 (if the new ones turns out to be bad, I'm probably going for a 580).
    SSD: Samsung 830 128GB or Agility 3 120GB
    HDD: WD Caviar Black 1TB (reusing this from my old PC)
    PSU: Not sure, but the shop where I'm buying it puts in a OCZ ZS 750W as standard - do you think this will be good enough?
    Case: Fractal Design Define R3
    Finally I'll be using my current two 22" monitors

    I guess that was all the hardware.

    I'd like the machine to last me for as long as possible (my current PC is almost 4 years old where I didn't really upgrade anything) but this time I may throw in a new graphicscard later or maybe run SLI if that is a better option at that time (though by the time I feel the need for a stronger graphiccscard it's probably better with a newer card, unless I can find a cheap used card). I could maybe even upgrade to an Ivy Bridge E cpu later (if that's their name), but I actually doubt that I will.

    I hope that wasn't too much info :)
  7. About the only MOBO ruled-out is the ASUS R4E or any EATX. Don't get any OCZ PSU's too many instances with coil whine. The Samsung 830 is a very good SSD, the WD are fine for single HDD but since they lack TLER I wouldn't RAID them together. The GTX 600 series is due out pretty soon, I expected them with the SB-E but my assumption they'll be available with the IB/LGA 1155 CPUs.

    I would either opt for the ASUS P9X79 WS or ASUS P9X79 (standard), you mentioned nothing about 'high' OC'ing e.g. >4.5GHz. The WS is less 'buggy' if you have more complex/unusual peripherals though none were mentioned, and is IMO a better option for l-o-n-g rendering jobs.
  8. I will be rendering quite a bit, but most likely just overnight renders as the longest - but I'll probably be doing that quite often :)

    The P9X79 WS is stretching the budget a little bit - do you think it's more stable since you say it's better for long renders?

    And yeah I'm most likely not going to OC more than the 4.0 GHz to begin with, so definitely not anything extreme-ish. If I later decide to fiddle with it myself I would be more than happy with 4.5GHz.

    The shop where I'm buying the computer has a lot of Corsair PSU's, but will most likely be able to get other psu's aswell like Seasonic etc. Do you have any recommendations? How many watts do you think I should go for considering that I'd like one that's powerful enough to handle sli later? I'd also like the PSU to be silent.

    And thanks a lot for your replies, it's very helpful :)
  9. ASUS puts the P9X79 WS through more vigorous testing and some of the chipsets are little more commercial, it's also a solid OC'er MOBO. It's a 'nice to have' but based upon what you've stated the P9X79 (standard) should be fine.

    Either MOBO is good for a 4.5GHz OC, just keep the vCore, if on air, <1.40v if not between 1.35v~1.40v for 24/7 operation.

    I also like both Corsair and SeaSonic, and depending on your kW/h cost, mine is $0.12, factor in ~$10/year for Silver from Bronze upgrade. I normally get the Corsair Professional 'Silver Certified', or in some cases 'Gold Certified' modular or semi-modular PSUs. It depends on 'use and load' 8~10/day or more it pays to get a good PSU. NewEgg had a deal after rebates and free shipping $150 for the Corsair Professional Series HX850, but this second the cost is up +$10 to $160. kWh calculator -> http://imog.us/tools/psucalculator/ PSU size calculator -> http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/ ; I would peg everything 100% when rendering (TDP/CPU Utilization, System Load, and 30% for Capacitor Aging).

    Rendering your priorities should be, if using the GPU -- the GPU(s), RAM the more the merrier, and for an added safety net IMO RAID at least RAID 1. The only differences between you and me are 'what' we Render.
  10. That chart actually returned 1110W :O
    I put in two GTX580, 100% load and 4.0GHz with 1.3v vcore, 100% TDP, 30% capacitor aging, 2 harddrives, 1 ssd, 3 regular 120mm fans, 5 usb devices and a blu-ray drive.

    Do I really need so much power? I thought a good 850W would be more than adequate? I know I put in more components than what I have now, but I'd like to have headroom to do a few upgrades later down the road.

    Btw the memory wasn't Kingston, it's G.Skill RipjawsX 1600 CL9 - I guess that doesn't change a whole lot and that those are good too?
  11. Maybe, it depends if you CPU render or GPU render, an OC'ed GTX 580 'can' pull 550W but normally it's 350W~400W under full load, and the SB-E 230W or more depending on OC. The 'problem' is if there's not enough power coming from the PSU it will bottleneck the system if not cause instability -- insufficient power per demand.

    Regarding the calculation, you are adding an additional 30% power for capacitor aging which will allow the system to fully function at least for a while anyway. However, most folks simply don't 'get' that ALL PSU's loose capacity. You might want to consider the Corsair CMPSU-1050HX if the GPU is rendering along side the CPU. Otherwise you'll notice progressive slowing and or instability.

    Power Consumption:
    CPUs - http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Processors/Intel-Core-i7-3930K-Sandy-Bridge-E-Processor-Review/Power-Consumption-and-Perform
    GPUs - http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2010/11/09/nvidia-geforce-gtx-580-review/8

    It is what it is. Folks get all confused when their PSU's go poof and in some instances so does their system along for the ride in the process. One of the reasons I don't get cheap and undersized PSU's; been there the culprit's in the mirror. Nothing worst than saving $50 to later destroy a $500 GPU + $600 CPU + $250 MOBO; the math doesn't add up in the end. BTW - I was one of those naive folks, and my lesson was blowing (2) expensive GPUs not to mention the PSUs.

    Some 'G.Skill RipjawsX 1600 CL9' when combined into (2) sets won't run DDR3-1600 CAS 9 and instead will only run DDR3-1333 CAS 9. If you have a single set of 4x4GB then it will run rated.
  12. Currently I'm not really using the gpu for rendering, so it's only the cpu - but that may change in the future, I don't know really.

    I'm definitely willing to spend some extra money on a quality psu that I know will be powerful enough, also taking into consideration that the other components like the cpu are quite expensive - but on the other hand I don't want to go out and spend way too much money on the psu if I don't actually need it :)

    Even though the gpu is not rendering along the cpu right now (and I don't know if/when that will be the case for me), but taking into consideration that I'd like this psu to last through some possible upgrades of the gpu (either a new one or sli) and also the fact that a stable system is important (it sucks to realize in the morning that your render crashed :P) - do you then think the HX1050 is well spent money in my case?

    It would really suck if I later down the road realize that a 750 or 850W psu is going to be a little insuficient..

    If I go for the standard P9X79 that also makes a little more room in the budget for a more expensive psu :)
  13. I'm by no means cavalier with my money or advising folks to waste their money. Knock on wood, but after 10K posts I've never had someone complain what I recommended. I can only advise on what's posted here and the Q&A's to get a feeling what's important.

    That said, if it were 'my' rig yep it would have the Corsair CMPSU-1050HX. Those calculations are what they are, simple additions of wattage.

    Keep in mind, if you suddenly decide OMG I need more GPU's then you're also shopping for a new MOBO on top if it all. Therefore, I try to plan ahead and leave options open "IF" the options are viable. Overkill is better then oopsy replacement.

    Heck even the kWh is a consideration and therefore the PSU Certification, and AMPs yeah I too look at those ratings. Trust me, I drive myself nuts all of the time, and I do my best not to be shortsighted. The anxiety of 'Add to Cart' goes almost immediately to excitement when you make the correct choice. I've become good about using Excel and trying various components and costs.
  14. I'm sure you know what you're talking about, it sounds like it :) - I'm just a little surprised that it would be a good idea with such a psu for my build - but on the other hand it does indeed make a lot of sense.

    When you say I would need a new mobo if I decide I need more GPU's are you then referring to tri or quad sli? I mean a P9X79 standard should be fine with two gpu's in sli right? I'm almost completely sure that I won't be running with more than 2 gpu's in this system - but adding in another gpu later without worrying about other upgrades is what I'd like to be able to do :)

    Also is the CMPSU-1050HX the same as 1050HX? Just a little confused as there doesn't seem to be any psu's named with the cmpsu in front here in Denmark.
  15. PSU - run the calculations again. The issue is while rendering the CPU is under 100% load then if you start GPU rendering then both the CPU + GPU will be running @ 100% overnight. Most folks screw-up their systems by under-powering it plus never think about capacitor aging. I said an 850W is sufficient, but then you also mentioned SLI GTX 580.

    MOBO - yes I meant if you do 3/4-WAY SLI.

    Model - CMPSU-1050HX is the 'model name' for the Corsair Professional Series HX1050 1050W - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139034

    BTW - Corsair just added a braiding kits - http://www.corsair.com/power-supply-units/psu-accessories.html
  16. Once again thanks a lot for your help, I'm going to talk with the shop and see if they can install the HX1050 in the computer instead :)
  17. Ok I can get the HX1050 at a fine price so that's all good :) However I got a little bit in doubt regarding the case - now that I'm trying to ensure that my system will run well even with high load and possible sli, do you think the case will be good enough in terms of airflow etc.?

    I chose the Define R3 because I'd like a somewhat silent computer (I don't mind some noise though, but I just don't want a very loud and noisy computer), and then the price is also very good for the case.

    What do you think?
  18. I know nothing more than I can 'Google' about the Fractal Design Define R3 case. It appears to have fans, or places for fans, in all the right places to keep components cool.

    The best advice I can give you is to get high CFM/low dBA fans and put them all on some type of fan controller that's either 100% manual or adds thermal monitoring plus automatic fan control. People can get CrAzY with fans, fan controllers and deadening materials.

    A good fan is going to cost >$8~$15+/each and fan controller >$25~$60+.

    What a lot of folks do by mistake is to find 'good' fans but run them @ 100% then complain that they're too loud. They're really meant to be controlled and should run normally @ 40%~60%, and offer the additional overhead when and if needed to lower spiked temps.
  19. Ah ok :)

    It does come with 2 fans, I think I'll just see how it works out and then add in additional fans if needed.

    Do you know of any other good case that makes a little effort to dampen noise? I looked at the P183 too, but it's more expensive and it doesn't really seem to offer anything that the Define R3 doesn't.
  20. Corsair has a new case coming out, the Obsidian Series 550D -> http://www.corsair.com/pc-cases/obsidian-series-pc-case/obsidian-series-550d-mid-tower-quiet-case.html ; you might want to watch the video.

    However, ANY noise you are hearing now is coming from bad, dirty or cheap OEM fans. This can be corrected by the use of new good and controlled fans - EASY! Further, the new and updated system you really need front, rear and top fans.
  21. Yeah I've seen that case and it looks very good - but it's going to be like 2-3 weeks before I can get it and I'd really like to get my new computer as soon as I can, I've been considering the various parts for quite some time already now :)

    I know a case can't be considered "silent" on its own, but I guess it does help with noise dampening even though the components are not considered to be noisy and in the end result in a more silent computer - or do you think it makes more sense to go for the best cooling that can ensure that fans doesn't need to run fast?

    People seems to talk positively about the R3, but I just got a little worried if the ariflow is good enough in it.
  22. Well I had a nice post and 'duh me' accidentally closed the frigging widow.

    What I use on gaming rigs:
    Koolance internal USB Fan Controller TMS-205 - http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=1178
    AeroCool Shark - http://www.aerocool.us/accessory.htm

    Step down:
    Aquacomputer Aquaero - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13696/
    Thermal Fan Controllers - http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g47/c17/s422/list/p1/Fan_Accessories-Fan_Controllers-Thermal_Controllers-Page1.html
    Yate Loon fans (or Scythe) - http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=ZaWiJcJq&searchspec=Yate+Loon&go.x=0&go.y=0

    Cheap but gets it done:
    NZXT Sentry-2 (flush face) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992005
    Fans, take your pick just stay under <30 dBA w/controller or <20 w/o controller.

    I've used the NZXT Sentry-2 it works fine; the folks with problems IMO have problems from slamming it or poking the screen too hard.
  23. Thanks for the recommendations, looks nice :) I think I'll have to wait a little bit with the purchase of fans+controller etc. as my budget is already stretched a fair bit with the hx1050, but it would be cool to be able to control the fans in a nice way :)

    What's your opinion about "silent" cases though? You think they're worth going for or is it better to go for airflow where the fans could run slower and thus decrease the noise?
  24. There are a variety of 'silent' cases, but for your purposes the best way to accomplish near silent is a fan controller, and if needed 'better' fans. If I have a rig that's really OC'ed and with multiple aka high-end then the most silent is water.

    If your noise is that aggravating then as soon as you can swing $25 get the NZXT Sentry-2 and later add some fans (top x2/out) that will reduce the heat significantly. Also, if there's room for a 120mm in-front of the PSU on the floor of the case AND it has a filter then have another pulling air in (bottom in).

    Otherwise, 'silent' cases aren't really mean for OC'ing and stuffing-in multiple GPU's and etc; you'll end-up overheating.


    I recently got the Corsair Carbide Series 500R - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139009 ; dirt cheap after instant, promo and rebate.

    Front (2x120mm/in), Bottom (140mm/in) separate purchase, Side (240mm/out), Rear (120mm/out), Top (4x120mm/out) separate purchase for Corsair H100 push/pull. Everything cools well and I tapped into the 3-way built-in fan controller.

    I would not consider a 'silent' case because I OC everything plus SLI on cheapo ASUS GTX 560's that have 2x fans/each and would heat the case too much with restrictive airflow.
  25. The thing is though I'm most likely not going to oc more than the 4.0GHz that the shop does for me. Also the R3 does actually have the option of installing an extra fan in the front, bottom and on the side.. but I don't know if that's good enough.

    Even though I can get silent case fans and a controller I'd still be stuck with the noise from the psu, graphicscard (I don't think I will replace the gpu cooler) and hard drives. However I will try to buy my graphicscard with a stock cooler as silent as possible. Regarding the psu, do you think the hx1050 is a silent psu?
    I'm just thinking that I may end up with a quite noisy pc with one of these very open cases. I know it's probably difficult to achieve good airflow and also dampen the noise at the same time, but some sort of mix between the two would be ideal :)
  26. On any of the SB/SB-E up to 4.5GHz it's practically child's play and 30 seconds in the BIOS. The Corsair PSU is near silent and the least of your concerns for noise; you could get a Gold or Platinum PSU and many of those are now offering 'Hybrid' fan control -- meaning the fans don't even turn-on until there's a higher load. Corsair's AX series, except AX1200, offer hybrid fan control. I know, but I don't like their PSU's, XFX has a 1000W with hybrid.

    I only run into noise with GPU's that are OC'ed and are under 100% load.

    Personally, I don't run into the noise issues that you are concerned about, but as I mentioned I know what to do to avoid most noise. There is a balance of noise to 'types' of cooling and the solutions I mentioned.

    In contrast, if you UNDERSIZED your PSU and it's reaching it's limits then YES the fan will be running CrAzY to keep the PSU from 'melting down' (overloading). If you have restrictive or poorly thought out airflow then everything run HOT and therefore noisy.

    You're obviously a smart guy if you weren't I wouldn't be responding, you know what to do so consider this a virtual kick in the pants to Do it Right...
  27. Sounds nice with the fan control, but I think I'll stick to the HX1050 as it seems the shop mainly sells Corsair PSU's- they didn't have Seasonic psu's like the X-1050.

    Another thing I was thinking about is how much dust these very open cases will accumulate - I have an Antec P182 for my current PC and when I open it I am always surprised about how little dust there actually is in there even though it's standing on the floor.

    When looking through the various cases I stumpled upon the Antec P280 and it appears to offer quite good cooling, it can be expanded with additional fans and it's spacious - it does feature dampening material too, but seems like people building a pc with it are happy with its cooling too, so maybe I should try that one :)

    It's difficult though as I haven't really heard a pc with good components built in a "gamer" case or similar cases with focus just on airflow and cooling, but I guess I'll just have to pick something and get my new computer soon :)
  28. A lot of dust intrusion entirely depends on the case, example on Corsair cases all those perforated holes on the front panel covers have a porous foam to filter dust not to mention removable and washable filters on the front, bottom, etc fans. Every case is going to become dusty inside so regular cleaning and maintenance is essential.

    However, those that don't have filters then you can purchase and add filters. Also, get the case off the floor and add some form of a stand; the floor is full of dust and debris that gets sucked into the case and fouls fans, increases heat, etc; on the cheap milk crates.

    For most folks Rendering and especially if the 'product' is final grade then I don't recommend 'consumer' parts, and instead recommend Xeon, Workstation grade MOBO's, ECC RAM, etc. The total cost isn't that much more but in many instances they cannot be OC'ed. LGA 1366 Xeon systems can be OC'ed.
  29. Didn't realize that the Corsair cases got that kind of dust protection, that's nice. I'm of course cleaning my computer but it's not needed that often because my P182 apparently got good dust protection with the filters since there's actually not much dust in the case (or on the fans) after half a year without cleaning it. Do you have any experience with the P280? Seems like it got good possibilities of extra cooling and I like the simple design.
    If it wasn't for the fact that I don't have room on my desk I'd move the computer up on the desk to avoid as much dust and dirt as possible - could use a box as you suggest if dust turns out to be a problem :)

    I think it's going to be ok with the consumer parts, it's easier for me to get a pc with these parts in a shop for a good price (I like to have a guarantee on the whole system so I don't have to troubleshoot hardware issues - last year my motherboard broke and it was a mess to identify this as the issue because I didn't have many spare parts around). And isn't the 3930k the most powerful cpu for rendering (apart from the extreme version)? I was cosindering to wait for ivy bridge too but based on what I can read the 3930k will beat it because the performance increase is not that big for ivy bridge and it will only have four cores, so I decided for the 3930k :)
  30. No I haven't used the Antec P280, though here's a nice video review -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIwvek4tDf8 but I have mixed feelings about it. I don't like the 'fan controller' in the rear (tough it's there), and there's no bottom inlet for an added 120/140 fan. Overall it has side panel insulation, looks good, nice fit and finish, and should be quite. I would still choose the more flexible optioned Corsair Obsidian Series 550D which should be available any day now. However, if you happened to choose an XL-ATX MOBO then obviously the Antec P280.

    Both the i7-3930K and i7-3960K are indeed excellent CPUs, the i7-3960X 'real' difference is tis larger cache +3MB. However, by no stretch can they compete with (2) Xeon CPUs in rendering. Eventually, there will be an IB-E the question is 'when'?! My question is when is Intel going to 'fix' the yield problem and offer 8/16 core/thread LGA 2011?

    The only 'problem' is finding an i7-3930K. The only way to get a 'guarantee' is to buy one from a place like CyberPowerPC, Dell/Alienware, etc but just looked and their ETA is March 15th.
  31. The 3930k should be in stock at the shop where I'm buying the computer so that shouldn't be a problem.

    The 550D indeed looks nice, but it's probably going to be 2 weeks or so because I would be able to get it (and maybe longer since there's no reviews or anything around yet?), I could try ask them what they expect though - but 2 weeks is a little long to wait :)
    The Fractal R3 does have an optional fan placement on the bottom and the side, but I just think the case is a little small and I think the P280 looks like a nicer case overall even though it doesn't have the bottom inlet.

    A system with 2 xeons would probably be more expensive and I guess not as powerful in stuff that's not heavily multithreaded? I'd also like the computer to be a good gaming computer :)
  32. Interesting "should be in stock" -- I'd check 1st. If the i7-3960K is MIA then you have A LOT of time to wait for other 'stuff' e.g. 550D.

    The VRM gets hot especially on higher >4GHz and >4.5GHz you must have good airflow. I'm still playing with the idea of the best solution with the exhaust fan and H100 while considering 'dust'.

    The Xeon 's I've played with on an SR-2 build I did last year were dual Xeon X5670 ($1500/ea) 12 cores and 24 threads and I guarantee they will run circles around the SB-E for rendering. But yep it's more expensive. Rendering as you know is a time vs money problem; rending time = money; see -> http://www.channelpro.co.uk/reviews/6551/intel-sandy-bridge-e-review/page/0/3

    It's your time and it's your money. If you're having problems meeting deadlines then the solution is throwing money at the problem, in some cases you can use a rendering farm.
  33. Shad0w said:
    Hi there,

    I am getting myself a new computer with a i7-3930k, but I'm in doubt about what motherboard to go for.

    Originally I was planning a Gigabyte X79-UD3 but I think it would be nice with 8 ram slots so that I can get install 16GB extra memory later if I want (may not need it, but I'm using lots of memory when doing 3d work in maya, photoshop etc. - so I figured it would be nice with the option).

    Then there's a X79-UD5, but also an Asus P9X79 (standard edition) where the latter is the cheapest one. However, I can't find any reviews of this Asus board as it seems only to be the pro or deluxe edition being reviewed.

    Saw a review of the UD3 here on Tom's hardware where it was recommended as much as a P9X79 Pro, but I don't know what I should choose considering that I'd like the option of more ram later? :)

    What do you think?

    Think about this:
  34. I'll ask them about availability but I've been talking with them for a while and it sounds like everything is on stock, didn't ask specifically about the cpu though, but there's a bunch of shops where they list the availability and number of stocked items, and there are a lot of places where they got them in high quantities (here in Denmark at least) - so I'd be surprised if I couldn't get one by next week if I ordered it now :)

    Regarding the 550D then I guess no one can actually know for sure if it will have good airflow and perform good since no one tested it?

    Since my budget is already stretched by going from a 2600k to 3930k I think I'll better stop at this point and not get tempted to anything more crazy/expensive, I'm sure the 3930k is going to be a nice performance boost from my Q9450 2.6GHz :D

    And thanks for the mobo suggestion, though I think I'll stick with the P9X79 :)
  35. Regarding the 550D, or any 'case' review no one, other than subjectively, tests 'airflow.' I suggest you take a few minutes and actually look at the Corsair 550D link, in it there's a review of such done by Corsair in which all of the features are explored. The 550D is a modded 500R with ideas from the 800D and who knows were they 'garnered' the other ideas from e.g. sound. The 550D has the option for removable side and top insulated panels for a total of 4x120mm or 4x140mm fans -- it's not a stretch to know that adds a potential EXTRA 100+CFM pulled/pushed through the case.

    If you want the 'best' case then either the Corsair 800D, Silverstone Temjin Series, or a few of the Lian-Li; my gaming rig is the 800D.

    @aqe040466 - I also have the ASUS Sabertooth X79, it's a nice MOBO though limited to 2-WAY SLI, but it also caries a 5-year warranty and active cooled chipset and VRM. It looks really nice with my gold Corsair CMZ16GX3M4X1600C9G and gold VRM sinks.
  36. I did watch it which is why I think it looks like a nice case - but I guess the airflow/performance does vary among cases even though they got the same amount of fans in it, which is why I said what I did :)

    I sent an email to corsair customer support and they informed me that it "should" be available in Denmark "mid-march"..

    That's unfortunately a quite long wait :/ I'm tempted to just go with the P280, it seems a little silly to wait up to 4 weeks for a case or possibly a little longer if it gets delayed? Considering that everything else is ready to go.

    "CMZ16GX3M4X1600C9G" - lol that's one hell of a product name :D
  37. Hi again :)

    I am about to order the computer (decided for P280), but I was recommended to put in the Gigabyte X79-UD5 instead of the P9X79 due to some memory incompatibility issues, but then there is the the C2/Vt-d bug you mentioned - isn't that only related to the C1 revision? And I guess most cpu's that the stores got in stock now are the newer C2?
  38. CPU-z -> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2261309
    It also currently holds the validated 3DMark11 record for its class of SLI -> http://3dmark.com/compare/3dm11/2647641/3dm11/2799442

    Get what you want.
  39. Sorry but I'm not sure why you post those figures? :)
  40. Because I know ASUS works, works well, and if the 'plan' is to OC then ASUS is what I have and will continue to recommend. Look at the spreadsheet and note both the MOBO's & vCores -> http://www.overclock.net/t/1167939/sandy-bridge-e-overclock-leaderboard-owners-club

    If you choose not to take my advice then I had 'hoped' real data might knock some sense. The discussion with 'data' is no longer 'subjective' but indeed irrefutable fact.
  41. I'm not in doubt that the Asus is a good mobo and I'd like to get the P9X79, but considering that I'm buying the computer assembled I have to choose between the options they offer (and I can for most parts get exactly the part I'd like) - but they mentioned an issue with using that memory on the asus board. I will see if they can offer some other memory modules (like some Kingston HyperX for examle), but if that's not possible I have to choose another board which is why I was curious about the details about that VT-d bug you mentioned.

    I'm thankful for the advice that you have given to me, but I'm just considering the best way to solve that issue regarding the memory :)
  42. What 'memory issue' and with what kits? Who are these guys?

    Post what they said and if possible their website.
  43. They didn't go in detail about what the issue was, but at second thought I'm unsure if it is specific to the memory modules or that they in general have experienced more memory compatibility issues with asus boards than other brands (I guess memory not working or not running at the right speed etc.) - The kit in question is 16 GB G.Skill RipjawsX 1600 CL9.

    They are nice and friendly people and I got friends recommending them too, so I got no worries about buying the computer here.
  44. The Ripjaws X XMP is more optimized for the LGA 1155 (P67/Z68), but a matched kit of 4x4GB should pose no issues that I've seen or heard of in forums. You get those folks who simply blame RAM because they don't know how to set it in the BIOS. Dirt simple for (1) one kit -- AI Overclock Tuner -> XMP -- yeah that's it.

    Otherwise, get the G.SKILL Ripjaws Z series 'optimized' for LGA 2011/X79 e.g. F3-12800CL9Q-16GBZL or better.

    Again, WHERE??!!
  45. It's a local danish shop, www.game-station.dk so probably not of much use for you :)

    Are there any actual benefits of having memory "optimized" for X79? I mean, isn't it basically the same memory?
    They can install HyperX memory instead, I see though that Kingston got some X79 memory too, HyperX Genesis, but it's more expensive - you think I should go for that (or other x79 memory) or am I ok with the standard HyperX?
  46. If the RAM is being set 'manually' by the builder then both optimized and particularly XMP goes through the window. X79 'optimized' RAM IMO does a better job at setting the voltages per platform and to some degree the deeper timings than (CAS-TRCD-TRP-TRAS-CMD). In either case any DDR3-1333~2600 <1.35v~1.65v quad channel set 'can' run on the platform.

    Went to their site:
    2x4GB (8GB) G.Skill RipjawsX 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Gaming Memory (Dual Channel)
    4x4GB (16GB) RipjawsX G.Skill 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Gaming Memory (Quad Channel) + 399.00 DKK
    2x4GB (8GB) G.Skill RipjawsX 1866MHz CL9 DDR3 Gaming Memory (Dual Channel) + 199.00 DKK
    4x4GB (16GB) RipjawsX G.Skill 1866MHz CL9 DDR3 Gaming Memory (Quad Channel) + 699.00 DKK

    ...of the choices:
    4x4GB (16GB) RipjawsX G.Skill 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Gaming Memory (Quad Channel) + 399.00 DKK

    ...or get the Default (included) RAM and toss it for the kit(s) of your choice. It's not that complicated to build, but that's your call.
  47. The possibilities are not limited to what they list on their site, maybe a little confusing, but I can choose pretty much whatever I'd like to go with :)

    They wanted to put in some Kingston HyperX 1600 instead so I think I can just as well go with that instead of the G.Skill - unless the HyperX Genesis is better, but if I understood you correctly it's better to save that money :)
  48. 'Best' is a very complicated and budgetary situation. Best are the Corsair Dominator GT's - period next are Ripjaws Z F3-19200CL9Q-16GBZMD. The gains in performance are minimal and the costs are indeed high. On my i7-980X gaming and all my i7-9XX have 12GB Corsair Dominator RAM.

    I've seen the CMT16GX3M4X2133C9 go up to DDR3-2600+ in an OC, but you better know what you're doing. Otherwise CMP16GX3M4X1600C7 (CAS 7!) or CMP16GX3M4X1866C9. All of the Corsair 'Dominator' kits easily (EASY) exceed Rated specs.

    Some options -> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007611%20600006073&IsNodeId=1&page=2&bop=And&CompareItemList=147%7C20-231-503%5E20-231-503-TS%2C20-226-271%5E20-226-271-TS%2C20-233-230%5E20-233-230-TS%2C20-231-497%5E20-231-497-TS%2C20-231-516%5E20-231-516-TS

    BTW - No, I don't particularly like the Kingston HyperX.
  49. I ended up with the G.Skill F3-12800CL9Q-16GBZL you mentioned :)

    I also opted for a Noctua cooler, the NH-D14, but while waiting for the memory to be in stock (should take a few days) I was thinking if I should go for a Corsair H100 instead. I see you have a H100 and H50 in and I am wondering what you think a bout the H100 cooler?

    I think it looks like a nice cooler, but the risc of leaking (though probably very small) is holding me back - I know it's probably quite unlikely that it happens, but who knows if I'm unlucky - and it seems like the performance of the Noctua is about the same..
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