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Motherboard Screws, computer starts up shuts down

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March 12, 2011 4:23:58 AM

I've read the other threads on similar topics, and the troubleshooting thread, but none seemed to help me identify my problem.

I just spent 5 hours putting together my first computer, i turn it on, it runs for about 5 seconds and shuts down. It repeats this until I turn off the PSU.

I inspect my board and notice that the screws i used were too small. I only had 5 good screws and there are 9 holes.

My questions:

Could this problem be due to the screws being too small?

Is it likely that i damaged anything by this?

If it ends up not being the screws, what else should i check?

I'm going to the store to buy the new screws tomorrow.

Thanks!
a b V Motherboard
March 12, 2011 4:39:51 AM


There should have been nine brass stand off studs under the motherboard and matching up with all nine screw holes on the MB.

And then nine screws to fasten the motherboard to the standoffs.

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March 12, 2011 4:52:35 AM

Hi anthony1832,

As you've not mentioned your system specs this is just a suggestion based on a problem I had which was similar.
If the new screws/standoffs don't solve the problem, take a look at the PSU.
It might just be a simple connection issue, or a faulty/not powerful enough PSU.
Good luck.

Regards keith263
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There are 9 brackets and only 6 appropriate screws. I dont know whythey would do that. Although the board did come with noly 6 brackets in. but i figured, the more the merrier, now i just need screws.
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a c 156 V Motherboard
March 12, 2011 1:04:56 PM

I have three Antec 900 cases and they all came with plenty of screws and standoffs. The Antec cases do not come with a system (case) speaker. Because your system is not working, you will need one for troubleshooting.

Lay the motherboard down in the empty case and use a pencil to mark through the motherboard mounting holes. That will tell you where the posts need to go.

But first, breadboard the system for testing.

Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.
The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
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