Replacing am3 heatsink, random temp increase **bad feeling about this

hey all,

so im running, an phenom II 965BE (3.4 stock) on an asus M4A79XTD Evo motherboard (8gb ddr3 1600mhz + gtx460 FTW) its a home build-- up till this point i had been fine, ideling about 34, maxing out at 54 during gaming (for 4 months-since i built it).

now i moved room, and it was fine last week, but when i got home (yesterday) i noticed temps were wayy above normal, i managed to hit 67 in dr2, ive not put it under load since, and temps have dropped to idels of 30-32 (lower than before?!?)

now, im aware you dont want to be above 62, on this chip (correct?)

also cpu fan is like jammed at 3300 rpm, not seen it change in hwmonitor

so what ive done is order an arctic freezer pro rev 2, some cleaning material, and thermal paste.

now this pc i built my self, and this will be the first time i've ever replaced a heat sink (aside from installing the original and thinking holy crap this takes a lot of force lol), ive been told to be very careful because amd uses an adhesive thermal compound, which has got me a little worried about this procedure, horror stories of people hauling the entire cpu out of its socket and bending pins, so any tips on removing would be amazing,

basically my questions are:

why has this happened?

how do i replace the heat sink?

is this heatsink any good in your experinece
15 answers Last reply
More about replacing heatsink random temp increase feeling this
  1. Quote:
    before you remove the heatsink twist it gently until it moves freely then lift it off the cpu.

    i would use a coolermaster hyper 212 for your new cooler.

    hello, will a slight twist be enough yeh? what about all the stuff i read about having to run ur pc at max load to "soften" the compound?

    ive already ordered the arctic, but is the coolermaster much better? im hoping for a temp drop of about 10-15 degrees c? will it provide more.

    also the arctic (if i stick with it) come with pre-applied compound, am i better using it, or scraping it off, cleaning and re-applying some arctic silver?
  2. beanoslim said:

    hey, thanks that does help alot, feeling alot more confident about the new cooler going in now, however the question still stands,

    why all of a sudden did the max load temps go from 54, to 67? even after cleaning out the case of the little dust that was in there.

    i mean an idle temp of 30 degrees is good for the stock cooler right?

    also, the fan speed seems stuck at 3,300 rpm, should it not go higher than that?

    thanks again for the responces
  3. Ambiant room temps??

    Thermal paste needs re-applying?

    Idle temps are pretty unimportant, load temps are the ones to watch.

    Different fans go different speeds, check the model number of the fan to find out its max speed and check your cool n quiet settings if it is enabled.
  4. Ambients could definitely have done it, especially if you've just run into summer.
    I like to go by this, another good guide with good pictures:
  5. ambient room temps are cooler if anything than the previous room, its in the bedroom now (partly because its a cooler room)

    case temp reads at 24 degrees.

    currently its just the stock amd am3 shitty fan, max rpm of this fan is 3,300 rpm (which its at constantly) even when totally idle. (i have a feeling it used to go faster than that tho)

    tried every variation or cool'n quiet and q-fan setting, speed never changes.

    as for thermal paste, its just the stock stuff, coolers been on there since i built the thing
  6. Well you'd probably reduce your temp by 5C with a fresh application of decent paste but you might as well wait for your new cooler.

    If OC ing I always turn CnQ off anyway and set the fan speed manually.
  7. I've always used the "spread-with-finger-in-baggie" method, and it has always worked well.
    I just installed a 120mm Xigmatek Gaia last night. It is almost identical to the Hyper212+ (which had its price jacked $5), except that the mounting doesn't use screws to apply pressure; you have to judge how tight you want it to be.
    Sorry I can't report results yet. This is for my Omega build, and I was just installing the hardware. I need to finish the interior cabling before I can wake it up.
  8. Dot or line for me and remember too much paste is just as bad as not enough.
  9. hey again,

    updated the cooler order, canceled arctic, and ordered a corsair h60 (overkill?) hopefully, i should never need to worry about cooling again, and will free up some space in the case.

    your opinions on this cooler?

    also, stick with pre-applied thermal paste? or get some arctic silver on there?

    my one question bearing the h60, how much power does the pump use, say compared to a normal led fan, as i understand the pump plugs into a 4 pin molex, and the fan into the cpu fan?
  10. Your cpu can never be too cool.

    I'd put some fresh AS or MX on there personally.

    Don't know about the power usage, whats your psu like?
  11. its a 500 watt corsair power supply,

    running phenom 2 965 3.4ghz
    8gb ddr3 corsair 1600
    gtx 460 ftw
    dvd drive
    2 hdd's (5400 240gig + 7200 1tb)
    nzxt led lights
    3 coolermaster led fans

    a quick power supply calc says im using 410 watts atm

    so adding the pump, surly will keep me under 500watts, (being corsair, i would assume the 500watts refers to continual output.

    ill be going upto a 750 when i make the jump to am3+
  12. Yeah should be fine, what model is the Corsair PSU?

    I used to run a PII 555 unlocked @3.6 with 4 GB RAM, 2 HDDS, 4 120mm fans and 2 GTX460's on an OCZ 550W.

    I switched to a Corsair TX2 750W.

    there's the supply, out of curiosity, ruffly how many watts you you guesstimate i am using atm? and the average usage or 1 standard 120mm fan.

    can't thank you enough for your help.
  14. This is a very good PSU calculator, have a play with it.

    The CX500 isn't one of Corsairs best units but should be sufficiant for your needs.

    Glad I could assist. :D
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