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Advice on $2500 Photography/Video Editing SandyBridge Build

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March 16, 2011 10:22:51 PM

OK, sorry for the HUGE post, but I have tried to get all the information into the initial post!

Approximate Purchase Date: in the next 2 weeks.

Budget Range:
- Please note that I am based in Christchurch, New Zealand so this budget is NZ$3,000 - 3,500. (which is about US$2,000-2,500)
- I have limited places to purchase from in NZ and everything is more expensive than on newegg and US based companies, so that budget probably buys me less here. Yes, everything is expensive here. Petrol is NZ$2.16 a litre. ouch.

Preferred Website(s) for Parts:
I will most likely be purchasing from www.computerlounge.co.nz. www.dragonpc.co.nz is another alternative, but their website sucks, so is hard to look things up.
Note: I want to buy everything from one supplier.

System Usage from Most to Least Important:
1. Photography
- Photoshop CS5 / Lightroom, I use a 5d MKII - so processing lots of 25-35mb RAW images, retouching etc
2. Video Editing (Premiere CS5 - Processing 1080p video from the 5dmkII HDDSLR.)
- I am not doing massive video projects, mainly short stuff/doco's/interviews/music videos etc.
- I intend to do more involved projects in the future.
3. Very occasional gaming, but not too much.

Parts Not Required:
- Monitor - I already have a HP LP2475W Widescreen LCD Monitor - 24".
- I also already have keyboard, mouse.
- 1TB Western Digital Black Caviar 3.5 SATA2 32M Cache HDD (WD1001FALS) in existing system, but will get put in here too
- 1.5TB Western Digital 3.5" Elements USB External Hard Drive (WDBAAU0015HBK-AESN) - used for onsite backup

Country of Origin: New Zealand
Overclocking: Maybe, but not essential.
SLI or Crossfire: No
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1200

MY PLANNED BUILD____________________________________________________
Below is the list of what I am planning to purchase. I have added comments next to each item to indicate things i am already happy with, and things that I want advice on.
Note: prices indicated are in NEW ZEALAND $ including tax (GST of 15%)

System overview:
- i7 2600K sandy bridge, with 12-16Gb RAM and medium/high level Graphics card.
- Windows 7 OS installed on SSD, all other data stored on standard 7500 SATA harddisks.
- A quiet PC build is preferred - but I don't need to go overboard making it quiet.
- I am not intending to have any elabourate RAID setups for video editing. If I considered RAID it would be for data redundancy only.

MOBO & CPU & COOLING

* ASUS P8P67 Deluxe Intel P67 DDR3 USB3+SATA3 SLI+ CrossFire LGA1155 PCI-E ATX (NZ$471.22 inc gst)
- From what I have seen in reviews the Asus P8P67 seems like a really good board.
- Unless anyone gives me a really convincing reason to look at a different model I will use this one.
- I would like advice on if I should be getting the ASUS P8P67 Pro or Deluxe version of this mobo? The 'pro' model sells for NZ$374.90, which is a quite a large difference in price. Not sure that the Deluxe is worth it.

* Intel Core i7 2600K Sandy Bridge 3.40GHz 8MB 95W LGA1155 (NZ$513.88 inc gst)
- happy with this, unless anyone has a really good reason why I should not be going down the
SandyBridge route

* Corsair Hydro Series H70 Hydro CPU Cooler LGA1156/LGA1366/AM3 (NZ$209.10 inc gst)
- I am tossing up between the H50 and the H70. What do you recommend?
- H70 is not a lot more money, and seems like a better buy. So leaning this way.
- Want an easy cooling solution. Nothing too complex or over the top, a closed water system or really good head sink option is best. Open to advice.
- H50 costs NZ$175.36 inc gst, so the H70 is about $35 more.

MEMORY

* Corsair (CMZ12GX3M3A1600C9) 12GB (3x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz CL9 Unbuffered DIMM Vengeance Performance Memory for Intel Triple Channel DDR3 platforms. (NZ$353.80 inc gst)
- I want 12gb+ of ram I am open to suggestions. This seemed like a good deal and ok memory.
- The suppliers this side of the world don't stock a lot of options.
- Is this kit ok for the Mobo I have selected?
- Another option is: Corsair (CMP12GX3M3A1600C9) Corsair 12GB (3x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1600MHz DOMINATOR memory kit for Intel triple channel memory solutions with Airflow Fan. (which costs $473.35 inc gst)
- Another Option: KINGSTON HYPERX 16GB (4X4GB) DDR3-1600 KIT CL9 (KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX) (which costs NZ$549 inc gst, and i can only get that from computerlounge)
- see a list of memory options here

GRAPHICS

* Gigabyte (GV-N560OC-1GI) Gigabyte GV-N560OC-1GI Overclocked GTX 560 1GB GDDR5 256bit PCIE2.0 2x DVI HDMI HDCP (NZ$425.50 inc gst)
- Ideally I wanted a GTX470 as this is compatable with Premiere CS5 mercury engine. Premiere CS5 requirements - this lists the compatbile cards.
- There is a 'hack' which you can do to make other cards can work with mercury. details here
- The GTX470 seems to be hard to get here now, (and also cost NZ$515-540 inc gst) which i think i can get a much better card for less /similar money.
- Note: I am not a heavy game player. the power of a GTX460 is probably plenty for photography/video editing stuff (as far as I understand it), but please let me know your thoughts.
- Here are the options that I have. Ideally I need to keep the cost under $500.
- GTX460 - NZ$335 inc gst - Gigabyte (GV-N460OC-1GI)
- GTX560 - NZ$425 inc gst - Gigabyte (GV-N560OC-1GI)
- GTX470 - NZ$515 inc gst - Palit (NE5TX470F10DA) (expensive for this card? 560 probably better?)
- GTX570 - NZ$583 inc gst - Gigabyte (GV-N570OC-13I) (costs a bit too much)
- GTX480 - NZ$611 inc gst - Asus (ENGTX480/2DI/1536MD5) (costs a bit too much)

HARD DRIVES

* OCZ Vertex 2 120GB 2.5" SandForce SSD SATAII (NZ$399 inc gst)
- Will be installing Windows 7 home on this drive, along with all software/applciation installs
- From what i have seen OCZ is the brand to get
- 120GB is possibly more than i need(?) but have seen that some people say that after Windows 7 install + adobe creative suite, regular applications and a few other installs like games etc, that they have seen up to 90GB of space used. I believe that this also includes 20-30GB pageing file or hibernation file or something as well?
- recommendations on the best size drive welcomed. If there is a better SSD (which is available through my suppliers) I would be interested in your thoughts as well.
- OCZ (OCZSSD2-2VTXE90G) 90GB costs NZ$335 inc gst

* Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 64MB Cache SATA6GB (WD2002FAEX 64MB 2TB) (NZ$255 inc gst)
- I will use this drive for storing all my photos/videos etc

OTHER

* LG BH10LS30 10X Blu-Ray Writer Lightscribe Black SATA Retail (NZ$282 inc gst)
- I don't have a specific need for writing blu-ray, but it is nice to have the option. Especially if I do bigger video projects
- I have seen this particular drive highly rated. Any other recommendations?

* Microsoft Windows 7 OEM Home Premium 64Bit (NZ$179 inc gst)
- not interested in any windows vs mac recommendations. ;) 

CASE & POWER SUPPLY

* Antec P183 V3 Performance One Black ATX Mid Tower New SSD Mounting - NO PSU (NZ$260 inc gst)
- I have chosen this case for a few reasons:
- most importantly it looks nice. I like something fairly sleek and clean - modern and minamilst looking. (I like the look of dells XPS range as well that kind of thing). I don't want a blingy case shaped like an alien. The visual look is fairly important. I'm vain.
- It is rated as being a good quiet case, with pretty good airflow.
- it has plenty of space for extra hard drives etc.
- I am open to other suggestions for a case, but generally I think that this is a good case.

* Antec CP-850 ATX Power Supply (For Twelve Hundred, P183, P193 only) (NZ$229 inc gst)
- this PSU is specific to this case, and has some pretty good reviews.
- I am open to suggestions if there is something better suited to my needs


This current build costs about NZ$3,500
March 16, 2011 11:31:11 PM

Nice build :)  A few changes to that build though

First off is the RAM. DDR3 Dual Channel RAM with low voltage is such as 1.5v or even lower. That Kingtson 16gig (4x4gb) would be perfect if it wasn't the 1.7v - 1.9v,

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_i... <--- something like that is what you want.

http://www.computerlounge.co.nz/components/componentvie... <--- The cpu cooler that most peeps on here would suggest.

http://www.computerlounge.co.nz/components/componentvie... <--- plenty of juice and then some to run that build up above

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March 16, 2011 11:34:05 PM

Some points:

1) Motherboard - seems fine

2) CPU seems fine - ensure it's the OVERCLOCKABLE version with no internal graphics

3) I don't recommend water cooling. I've done a lot of research (more in next REPLY)

4) RAM. Is 12GB required? (for example, if you open 5, 40MB pictures with 10 layers each that's about 2GB. You need to be using more RAM than this at the SAME TIME to justify purchasing more RAM. RAM is cheap now, but it does add a lot of heat)

I'd probably recommend 6GB but I really can't be certain how you use your PC.

5) RAM (type) - any 1600MHz DDR3 RAM should be fine. It's not worth it to spend much extra as your RAM won't be a bottleneck. Quality is most important though it's hard to compare beyond customer reviews.

6) Graphics:
- do NOT get an NVidia 4xx card. The 4xx series runs way too hot. I highly recommend the NVidia GTX 560 Ti (there's a review on the Tomshardware site).

- note that presently if you use a graphics card to help with video conversion the quality will NOT be as good as using the CPU only. The software simply isn't there yet though it's improving rapidly. Just FYI. It's often quite minor. Some CUDA accelerated video conversion was very poor.

7) OCZ Vertex 2 120GB is a very good choice for size and brand. I have three 60GB's in RAID0, however do NOT build a RAID SSD setup. You lose TRIM support, some other minor features and flashing RAID is very, very difficult. A single 120GB drive is ideal. You could expect to see around 30GB consumed after Windows 7 is installed but that creeps up to over 60GB with programs and System Restore points being created.

*Do create an IMAGE of your Windows drive on your hard drive periodically using both Windows 7 and Western Digital's Acronis tool.

8) WD 2TB Black - a good drive (the Green version runs slower and quieter. Speed may not be that big a deal on a secondary drive. Ensure you get the more reliable EARS model. It has 50% better data protection.)

9) BluRay? Unless you need it NOW I'd wait and just get a normal DVD-burner. BluRay drives are going to increase the SPEED significantly over the next year or two and it's hard to justify the disc costs. Single layer (DVD+R) discs which store 4.3GB are very cheap in bulk such as the Verbatim 100-pack which is good quality (burned 300 with no errors).

10) Windows 7 OEM Premium x64 - yes

11) Antec P183 - I was VERY DISAPPOINTED with my case for several reasons
- attempts to eliminate noise actually cause noises which are hard to fix (such as the screw-on rails which I needed to stick paper next to to dampen vibrations)
- My video card made the entire middle section useless (has a pull-out mount).
- The front door can be annoying (gets in my way while burning; if I close it the drive tray hits it since I can't disable auto-eject in NERO)

I bought my dad the Antec 300 which I think is a really great case; it was inexpensive but it wasn't even about price. It comes with two 120mm fans. The PSU (not included) mounts at the bottom-rear.

If money was no object, this is the case I'd get:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/r-photo.ph...

12) PSU - The Antec CP-850 sounds good unless there's a sale on a similar, quality PSU. 850W is plenty.
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Related resources
March 16, 2011 11:42:14 PM

photonboy said:
Some points:

1) Motherboard - seems fine

2) CPU seems fine - ensure it's the OVERCLOCKABLE version with no internal graphics

3) I don't recommend water cooling. I've done a lot of research (more in next REPLY)

4) RAM. Is 12GB required? (for example, if you open 5, 40MB pictures with 10 layers each that's about 2GB. You need to be using more RAM than this at the SAME TIME to justify purchasing more RAM. RAM is cheap now, but it does add a lot of heat)

I'd probably recommend 6GB but I really can't be certain how you use your PC.

5) RAM (type) - any 1600MHz DDR3 RAM should be fine. It's not worth it to spend much extra as your RAM won't be a bottleneck. Quality is most important though it's hard to compare beyond customer reviews.

6) Graphics:
- do NOT get an NVidia 4xx card. The 4xx series runs way too hot. I highly recommend the NVidia GTX 560 Ti (there's a review on the Tomshardware site).

- note that presently if you use a graphics card to help with video conversion the quality will NOT be as good as using the CPU only. The software simply isn't there yet though it's improving rapidly. Just FYI. It's often quite minor. Some CUDA accelerated video conversion was very poor.

7) OCZ Vertex 2 120GB is a very good choice for size and brand. I have three 60GB's in RAID0, however do NOT build a RAID SSD setup. You lose TRIM support, some other minor features and flashing RAID is very, very difficult. A single 120GB drive is ideal. You could expect to see around 30GB consumed after Windows 7 is installed but that creeps up to over 60GB with programs and System Restore points being created.

*Do create an IMAGE of your Windows drive on your hard drive periodically using both Windows 7 and Western Digital's Acronis tool.

8) WD 2TB Black - a good drive (the Green version runs slower and quieter. Speed may not be that big a deal on a secondary drive. Ensure you get the more reliable EARS model. It has 50% better data protection.)

9) BluRay? Unless you need it NOW I'd wait and just get a normal DVD-burner. BluRay drives are going to increase the SPEED significantly over the next year or two and it's hard to justify the disc costs. Single layer (DVD+R) discs which store 4.3GB are very cheap in bulk such as the Verbatim 100-pack which is good quality (burned 300 with no errors).

10) Windows 7 OEM Premium x64 - yes

11) Antec P183 - I was VERY DISAPPOINTED with my case for several reasons
- attempts to eliminate noise actually cause noises which are hard to fix (such as the screw-on rails which I needed to stick paper next to to dampen vibrations)
- My video card made the entire middle section useless (has a pull-out mount).
- The front door can be annoying (gets in my way while burning; if I close it the drive tray hits it since I can't disable auto-eject in NERO)

I bought my dad the Antec 300 which I think is a really great case; it was inexpensive but it wasn't even about price. It comes with two 120mm fans. The PSU (not included) mounts at the bottom-rear.

If money was no object, this is the case I'd get:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/r-photo.ph...

12) PSU - The Antec CP-850 sounds good unless there's a sale on a similar, quality PSU. 850W is plenty.

6 gigs would be fine if this was a 1336 build, but it's not. 8 gigs, etc.. of dual channel.

As far as using a 850w psu to run a photo shop build... ya. I mean it's not like the OP is going to run dual 570's in SLI.
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March 16, 2011 11:49:57 PM

About COOLING:

1) Use two, 120mm case fans. Constant, low RPM (if the Antec, set the slow on slowest speed). Place FRONT-BOTTOM and TOP-REAR.

2) Purchase a large heatsink/fan combo. Lots of reviews. Ensure it fits properly and doesn't hit either the RAM or the top PCIe slot. Sites like NCIX have good reviews.

3) the CPU fan should be plugged into the proper CPU fan speed control. The BIOS should be set properly (I had three options: voltage, auto, and PWM. The default was NOT correct as it was for the stock fan which uses PWM. I changed to VOLTAGE and my fan control worked properly. Use a CPU stress app like Orthos to see if your fan control works.)

4) the CPU heatsink fan should be lined up with the rear case fan.

5) any opening with no fan should be covered over to ensure proper pressure in the case (such as the side fan mount on the Antec 300)

Other:
- change your Power Settings to turn off your hard drives when not needed (I use 30 minutes)

- do NOT overclock unless you need it. Most high-end boards have a utility which can easily overclock the CPU. I open my Gigabyte program (quickboost?) select the 3.4GHz CPU overclock then it REBOOTS. I use this ONLY for converting video. When I'm done for at least several days I go back to idle as it uses less power and creates less noise.

- flash the BIOS to latest (I had two major issues causing crashing which BIOS updates fixed. One was Memory compatibility and one was for SSD compatibility)

I hope this all helps.
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March 17, 2011 12:06:54 AM

Why_Me said:
Nice build :)  A few changes to that build though

First off is the RAM. DDR3 Dual Channel RAM with low voltage is such as 1.5v or even lower. That Kingtson 16gig (4x4gb) would be perfect if it wasn't the 1.7v - 1.9v,

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_i... <--- something like that is what you want.

http://www.computerlounge.co.nz/components/componentvie... <--- The cpu cooler that most peeps on here would suggest.

http://www.computerlounge.co.nz/components/componentvie... <--- plenty of juice and then some to run that build up above


Thanks for the links!

Excuse my ignorance - but why do I need/want RAM with 1.5v?
Is this needed to be compatible with my build, or is it just preferable for other reasons? (ie better performance?)
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March 17, 2011 12:28:46 AM

DDR3 RAM:

as someone commented it's dual-channel not triple-channel. I recommend starting with 2x4GB (total 8GB). If you use 2x4GB (and not 4x2GB) you leave two slots open in case you wish to go up to 16GB.

I strongly stress that you are very, very unlikely to benefit from more than 8GB of RAM in the slightest and could, in fact see a slight DROP in performance. I read a very extensive article on this comparing 2GB, 4GB and 8GB. The only benefit of 8GB vs 4GB was in Photoshop with very heavy use AND some additional multi-tasking going on. The benefit was about 25% but that's 8GB vs 4GB; more than 8GB of RAM would require a very unique situation which would likely only benefit users such as those modelling real-time 3D creations (texture-overlaying wireframes for movies, video games).
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March 17, 2011 12:51:20 AM

photonboy said:
DDR3 RAM:

as someone commented it's dual-channel not triple-channel. I recommend starting with 2x4GB (total 8GB). If you use 2x4GB (and not 4x2GB) you leave two slots open in case you wish to go up to 16GB.

I strongly stress that you are very, very unlikely to benefit from more than 8GB of RAM in the slightest and could, in fact see a slight DROP in performance. I read a very extensive article on this comparing 2GB, 4GB and 8GB. The only benefit of 8GB vs 4GB was in Photoshop with very heavy use AND some additional multi-tasking going on. The benefit was about 25% but that's 8GB vs 4GB; more than 8GB of RAM would require a very unique situation which would likely only benefit users such as those modelling real-time 3D creations (texture-overlaying wireframes for movies, video games).



I do have some pretty heavy photoshop use. I create composite images sometimes which the .psd file is upwards of 2GB in size with 50+ layers. I also run some fairly intesive retouching actions.
I am of the impression that 12GB of RAM would see some benifit in this scenario and also when rendering 1080p video files. But I have not done extensive research.

Given that the Mobo has 4 dual channel slots, what would happen if a filled it with 3x4gb sticks? can i buy a triple channel 'set' and use that - or is there something specific about the memory that will not work in a dual channel setup?
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March 17, 2011 12:55:10 AM

Why_Me said:
6 gigs would be fine if this was a 1336 build, but it's not. 8 gigs, etc.. of dual channel.

As far as using a 850w psu to run a photo shop build... ya. I mean it's not like the OP is going to run dual 570's in SLI.


yes 8gb(2x4gb) the absolute minimum i would install. 12gb is probably better though. can i stick in one extra 4gb stick, or would dual channel not like that?

re: PSU - i have no intention of running SLI - so would 550w be enough for my suggested build? if i don't need 850w i might as well save some money where i can :) 
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March 17, 2011 1:09:08 AM

photonboy said:
Some points:

1) Motherboard - seems fine

Should i get the Pro or the Deluxe version? any recommendations?
photonboy said:
2) CPU seems fine - ensure it's the OVERCLOCKABLE version with no internal graphics

how to i tell if it is the overclockable version?

photonboy said:
3) I don't recommend water cooling. I've done a lot of research (more in next REPLY)

the colling solution linked to above by why_me looks like a good option

photonboy said:
4) RAM. Is 12GB required? (for example, if you open 5, 40MB pictures with 10 layers each that's about 2GB. You need to be using more RAM than this at the SAME TIME to justify purchasing more RAM. RAM is cheap now, but it does add a lot of heat)
I'd probably recommend 6GB but I really can't be certain how you use your PC.

see above comments. I will get at least 8gb due to dual channel. I have photoshop files that are sometimes 2-3gb in size as working files.

photonboy said:
5) RAM (type) - any 1600MHz DDR3 RAM should be fine. It's not worth it to spend much extra as your RAM won't be a bottleneck. Quality is most important though it's hard to compare beyond customer reviews.

I think that for my application CPU and RAM are the two 'most important' factors (even before the graphics card). as Premiere and photoshop are reliant on cpu and RAM more. so yes. quality is important.

photonboy said:
6) Graphics:
- do NOT get an NVidia 4xx card. The 4xx series runs way too hot. I highly recommend the NVidia GTX 560 Ti (there's a review on the Tomshardware site).

- note that presently if you use a graphics card to help with video conversion the quality will NOT be as good as using the CPU only. The software simply isn't there yet though it's improving rapidly. Just FYI. It's often quite minor. Some CUDA accelerated video conversion was very poor.

I had heard that the 4xx series run hot. I think that is probably the best option for price/performance for me.

photonboy said:
7) OCZ Vertex 2 120GB is a very good choice for size and brand. I have three 60GB's in RAID0, however do NOT build a RAID SSD setup. You lose TRIM support, some other minor features and flashing RAID is very, very difficult. A single 120GB drive is ideal. You could expect to see around 30GB consumed after Windows 7 is installed but that creeps up to over 60GB with programs and System Restore points being created.
*Do create an IMAGE of your Windows drive on your hard drive periodically using both Windows 7 and Western Digital's Acronis tool.

do you think that i would be better to save a little money and get the 90gb model? or for price difference am I better off just playing it safe and having the extra space just in case?

photonboy said:
8) WD 2TB Black - a good drive (the Green version runs slower and quieter. Speed may not be that big a deal on a secondary drive. Ensure you get the more reliable EARS model. It has 50% better data protection.)

I had not heard about this EARS model. is this the SATA6.0gb range?
hard drive performance is important for what i do - so will stick the black (faster) drives.

photonboy said:
9) BluRay? Unless you need it NOW I'd wait and just get a normal DVD-burner. BluRay drives are going to increase the SPEED significantly over the next year or two and it's hard to justify the disc costs. Single layer (DVD+R) discs which store 4.3GB are very cheap in bulk such as the Verbatim 100-pack which is good quality (burned 300 with no errors).

You might be right - perhaps waiting for blu-ray to improve is better

photonboy said:
10) Windows 7 OEM Premium x64 - yes

11) Antec P183 - I was VERY DISAPPOINTED with my case for several reasons
- attempts to eliminate noise actually cause noises which are hard to fix (such as the screw-on rails which I needed to stick paper next to to dampen vibrations)
- My video card made the entire middle section useless (has a pull-out mount).
- The front door can be annoying (gets in my way while burning; if I close it the drive tray hits it since I can't disable auto-eject in NERO)

I bought my dad the Antec 300 which I think is a really great case; it was inexpensive but it wasn't even about price. It comes with two 120mm fans. The PSU (not included) mounts at the bottom-rear.

If money was no object, this is the case I'd get:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/raven/products/r-photo.ph...

12) PSU - The Antec CP-850 sounds good unless there's a sale on a similar, quality PSU. 850W is plenty.


I don't go into the front of the case very often, so the door is probably not a major issue for me. i will investigate the other case you linked to for comparison.
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March 17, 2011 10:45:43 PM

Here is the revised build at the moment. Scaled back a few things and made some small changes. this current build is option is about NZ$3,000.

Can you let me know what your thoughts are?

MOBO & CPU & COOLING
* ASUS P8P67 PRO REV 3.0 INTEL P67 DDR3 USB3+SATA3 RAID SLI+ CROSSFIRE LGA1155 PCI-E
* Intel Core i7 2600K Sandy Bridge 3.40GHz 8MB 95W LGA1155

COOLING
Probably going to go with the H70 - but what would you recommend between these two:
* Corsair Hydro Series H70 Hydro CPU Cooler LGA1156/LGA1366/AM3
* PROLIMATECH MEGAHALEMS REV. B CPU COOLER LGA1366 LGA775 W/ FAN W/BRACKET

MEMORY
* Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8 Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3-1600 CL8

GRAPHICS
* Gigabyte (GV-N560OC-1GI) Gigabyte GV-N560OC-1GI Overclocked GTX 560 1GB GDDR5 256bit PCIE2.0 2x DVI HDMI HDCP

HARD DRIVES
* OCZ (OCZSSD2-2VTXE90G) 90GB 2.5" SandForce SSD SATAII (windows 7 OS install)
* Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 64MB Cache SATA6GB (WD2002FAEX 64MB 2TB)

OPTICAL
I am downgrading the optical drive to just be DVD writer for now. I will wait for Blu-ray. Would you recommend one of these?
* LG GH22LS50 22x LightScribe Black SATA DVD Writer
* ASUS DRW-24B3LT 24X DVD Writer LightScribe SATA

OS
* Microsoft Windows 7 OEM Home Premium 64Bit

CASE & POWER SUPPLY
I am still looking at case options. P183
* Antec P183 V3 Performance One Black ATX Mid Tower New SSD Mounting - NO PSU
* ANTEC TRUE POWER TP-550 550W POWER SUPPLY
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March 17, 2011 11:15:17 PM

The video editing builds and the advice on the Adobe site generally reflect that one should go towards the high end on power, both in wattage and quality: 850 watts seems to be the minimum. That may be due to the fact that many folks run Raid arrays with multiple hard drives, and some of the nVidia Cards can be power hogs with heavy usage, like video editing.

I would check out some good reviews of a PSU before buying it (JonnyGURU.com is one good place).
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March 17, 2011 11:44:43 PM

An overclocked GTX 560 will pull 300+ watts at load. A 550 PSU will leave little room for much.

The preferred OS in the Adobe Crowd is Windows 7 Professional 64 Bit, and that is the one Adobe Gurus recommend most.

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March 18, 2011 2:37:21 AM

texbldr said:
An overclocked GTX 560 will pull 300+ watts at load. A 550 PSU will leave little room for much.

The preferred OS in the Adobe Crowd is Windows 7 Professional 64 Bit, and that is the one Adobe Gurus recommend most.


I think that i will get the 850w PSU that i listed in the original post then...best to be safe!

what 'benifit' is there to having windows 7 professional. as far as I can understand it, there is not a lot of difference except for backup over network?

is there a specific reason that professonal is recommended?
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March 18, 2011 9:36:48 AM

I did an i7 build last fall for CS5, and I cannot recall the exact reason. I came across the recommendation on this forum, and they may know:

Adobe HW Forum

Edit: OEM version is still fine though

They seem to have some questions about Sandy Bridge for CS5 as you can see in this thread:

Adobe HW Forum SB discussion

Edit: Just for context, a lot of the people on that thread are major league video editing folks. They push their machines to the max, so a 10% differential in performance is significant, especially when time can equate to money.

Edit: Just in case you do not know, SB Mobos had some weaknesses in the Intel controller chips. The updates are supposed to be out in April. If you buy an older version now, many places will allow you to exchange it when the update comes out.
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March 18, 2011 3:59:30 PM

neax said:

what 'benifit' is there to having windows 7 professional. as far as I can understand it, there is not a lot of difference except for backup over network?

is there a specific reason that professonal is recommended?


A lot of Adobe CS Users have i7 builds as you can see here at a benchmarking site for Adobe builds:

Premiere Pro Benchmark for CS5

In that listing, many of the i7 builds have 24GB of memory. A lot of 1366 Mobos support 24GB, and many people like to have the option of moving up to that amount of memory. Windows 7 Home Premium only supports 16 GB of memory while Professional supports 192 GB.
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March 25, 2011 4:36:57 AM

thanks for all the advice!
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April 1, 2011 3:52:10 AM

Here is what i finally ordered. Settled on 16GB of ram and also found out that SATA6.0gb versions of the OCZ SSD have been released so ordered that. Total cost NZ$3470

MOBO & CPU & COOLING
* ASUS P8P67 PRO REV 3.0 INTEL P67 DDR3 USB3+SATA3 RAID SLI+ CROSSFIRE LGA1155 PCI-E
* Intel Core i7 2600K Sandy Bridge 3.40GHz 8MB 95W LGA1155

COOLING
* Corsair Hydro Series H70 Hydro CPU Cooler LGA1156/LGA1366/AM3.

MEMORY
* Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8 Vengeance 4x4GB DDR3-1600 CL8 - a total of 16GB RAM.

GRAPHICS
* Gigabyte (GV-N560OC-1GI) Gigabyte GV-N560OC-1GI Overclocked GTX 560 1GB GDDR5 256bit PCIE2.0 2x DVI HDMI HDCP

HARD DRIVES
* OCZ Vertex 3 120GB 2.5" SandForce SSD SATA3. (windows 7 OS install)
* Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 64MB Cache SATA6GB (WD2002FAEX 64MB 2TB)

OPTICAL
* LG GH22LS50 22x LightScribe Black SATA DVD Writer

OS
* Microsoft Windows 7 OEM Home Premium 64Bit

CASE & POWER SUPPLY
* Antec P183 V3 Performance One Black ATX Mid Tower New SSD Mounting - NO PSU
* Antec CP-850 ATX Power Supply (For Twelve Hundred, P183, P193 only).
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!