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New Build Advice for a powerful Web & Media PC 1st build

Last response: in Systems
March 17, 2011 8:28:49 AM

Reposted in correct section...

REDO in correct format... kindly suggested by WannaTurnUpTheHeat

I should note that I have never built a computer before, but I've read quite a bit about parts and have seen videos.

Approximate Purchase Date: within the next 1-2 weeks

Budget Range: $1700-$1900

System Usage from Most to Least Important: surfing the internet, watching movies, Folding@Home, gaming

Parts Not Required: keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers

Preferred Website for Parts:

Country of Origin: USA

Parts Preferences: I would like to use an Intel CPU & Asus mobo with a 24" LCD and full tower case)

Overclocking: Maybe

SLI or Crossfire: Maybe SLi

Monitor Resolution:1920x1080

Additional Comments:

This place is AWESOME! :bounce: 

Parts list:

COOLER MASTER HAF X RC-942-KKN1 Black Steel/ Plastic ATX Full Tower Computer Case

Sparkle Computer Corp GOLD CLASS SCC-850AF 850W ATX12V / EPS12V 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active, 0.99PF Typical PFC Power Supply

Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop

ASUS P8P67 DELUXE (REV 3.0) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

ARCTIC COOLING ACFZ13 92mm High Performance CPU Cooler for Intel and AMD

EVGA SuperClocked 01G-P3-1563-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

Intel 510 Series (Elm Crest) SSDSC2MH120A2K5 2.5" 120GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Model #:SSDSC2MH120A2K5

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit 1-Pack for System Builders - OEM

SONY Black SATA DVD-ROM Drive Model DDU1681S-0B - OEM

Recertified: Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
March 17, 2011 1:14:51 PM

There's some major problems with that build. First, a $180 case. The HAF X isn't that great and it's extremely expensive. I would highly recommend taking a really hard look at the HAF 922 instead. It's a little smaller, but it's still easily one of the best cases on the market at any price, much less it's nice $90 (after rebate). The name might say it's a mid tower, but it's actually the size of many full towers.

Second, that Sparkle PSU is an absolute POS. I wouldn't trust that thing to run a lightbulb, much less a nearly $2,000 PC. It's not even a good price. Instead, check out Silverstone's 850W for $125. You'll need a power code, but it's a great PSU.

Third, a recertified HDD isn't a good idea. Period. Much less a SATA III mechanical drive. SATA III does next to nothing for mechnical drives, besides adding nearly 50% to the price. Grab a Samsung Spinpoint F3 1 TB for $65 and save $14 over a recertified one. Or pair it with Windows and save another $5.

Fourth, the Deluxe board is overpriced. Look around for the Pro model. It should be about $50 cheaper.

Finally, that Arctic Cooling HSF isn't that great. Instead, spend that same amount on the Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B. Or spend less and get it in a combo with the i7 and save $10.

Also, here's a cheaper SATA DVD burner. No reason to pay any more than the minimum for it.

Now, with all those changes above, you've saved over $200. That's enough that you can afford to step up to the GTX 580 and still have $30-50 left.
March 17, 2011 1:20:28 PM

great advise, with the deluxe board vs pro, will I be missing anything without the 16+2 DVRM?
Related resources
March 17, 2011 2:26:20 PM

I don't think so. I think that as long as you have 8 phase or higher, you're not missing anything.
March 17, 2011 9:21:37 PM

I need to read up on the onboard bluetooth (BT GO!), because I thought I read somewhere it causes more trouble than good, when installed.

You think I should install my own bluetooth adapter or the onboard bt go! should suffice?

March 17, 2011 10:28:59 PM

Do I not need the USB 3.0 on the HAF X either?, saw those are missing from the 922.

Best solution

March 18, 2011 10:50:15 AM

USB 3 headers are pretty much useless, and will be for a long time. To make them useful, you need to have devices that need the extra speed (large HDDs), are widely available (majority of people have them) and need constant switching (used by mp3 players, iPods, smartphones, etc.). Not only that, but you'd need to own multiple devices using USB 3. If you just want it to transfer large files regularly, it's extremely likely that you don't need to switch the external device quickly. Therefore, the USB 3 ports in the rear will be just fine.
March 28, 2011 8:29:00 AM

Best answer selected by jungli3.