I pulled the trigger and bought the RAM probably a bit early because I got it for cheap. I thought the P67 Sabertooth would work no problem and intended to go that route. Now I'm not sure. I'm certainly no expert and I was hoping to find a more definitive answer here. Thanks in advance.
Shooting for sort of a budget gaming build with i5-2500k, gtx560ti (single GPU, not going to do SLI), 8gb of the above-mentioned gskill RAM, basically looking for a motherboard with easy-to-use and understand BIOS so a noob like myself can get it all running properly... I'm told getting the RAM to run at 2133 is going to require an OC whichever way I go? The system will be used primarily for gaming, single HDD, just OS and games/utilities, building in a HAF912.
If it comes to it, I believe I'd rather buy the right board and swap out the RAM rather than settling for the wrong board to make the RAM work.
ref - http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/SABE...
4 x DIMM, Max. 32GB, DDR3 1866/1800/1600/1333/1066 MHz Non-ECC, Un-buffered Memory
Dual Channel Memory Architecture
Supports Intel® Extreme Memory Profile (XMP)
* According to Intel® SPEC, the Max. 32GB memory capacity can be supported with DIMMs of 8GB (or above). ASUS will update QVL once the DIMMs are available on the market.
* Hyper DIMM support is subject to the physical characteristics of individual CPUs.
QVL "The above QVL is for the DDR3 2400 MHz memory module. Due to CPU behavior, DDR3 2400 MHz memory module will run at DDR3 2133 MHz frequency.
While the DDR3-2133 is not officially listed, nothing mentioned in the manual either - in theory it would work per Rated 'IF' an update to the BIOS supports the DRAM Multipliers. In simple, go into your BIOS and look in the 'AI Tweaker' tab, click on 'Memory Frequency' this will bring-up the supported Frequencies.
In the 'Sabertooth P67 QVL List' it does list DDR3-2133/2200, on the LGA 2011 whenever I see 'OC' added to the end of a DRAM frequency, it suggest to OC the CPU. Further, if the BIOS lacks 'Memory Frequency' with 'DDR3-2133' then you'll need to update the BIOS -- only use ASUS EZ Flash 2 procedure; see -> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/289507-30-what-flash
Looks like I was editing as you replied. Added a bit of additional info. Sorry. Thanks for the welcome and for the response. I guess I should have been more clear on one point -- I do have the RAM already but I don't have the board.
Thanks for the replies so far. I downloaded the RAM compatibility .pdf for the ASUS boards and it's not listing the RAM I have. The p8z68-V/gen3 looks like a good board for me, but would I have to choose different RAM to work with it?
I was also looking at the ASRock Fatal1ty Professional P67/Z68 boards. GSkill lists the Z68, Newegg sells only the P67 for a comparable price to the two boards you listed, I'd be willing to grab it elsewhere, as long as it worked and was a good choice. Any opinions on the Fatal1ty Professional Z68/P67 route? If it's clearly a better choice just to grab some 1600 Ripjaws and use the ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3, then I may just do that.
The 'QVL List' aren't that important with the Sandy Bridge other than steer clear of 1.65v or higher DRAM voltage RAM. There's no way that the QVL lists for any OEM MOBO can be kept up to date.
Generally, I only recommend getting:
1. Matched Kits 2x__GB or 4x__GB
2. 1.35v~1.50v DRAM Voltage RAM
3. 4GB/stick density ; >4GB requires 64-bit OS see -> http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/desktop...(v=vs.85).aspx
4. DDR3-1600 (P67/Z68), DDR3-1333 all other LGA 1155 MOBOs
5. Never mix-match RAM of different Frequency, CAS timings, Voltage, etc
6. Tip - even two identical kits is a 'mix', and the Rated characteristics and not guaranteed.
7. Tip - don't use XMP in any 'mix'
For any of the MOBO's listed above, either the G.SKILL Ripjaws X or Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1600 CAS 8/9. I've seen issues with two kits of F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL running DDR3-1600 together.
Thanks. I'll be using a singe 2x4gb kit, whether it's the current Sniper kit I already have or if I grab a different kit (along with the i5-2500k, etc). I impulse-bought due to the low price without knowing what I was doing. Some stuff I've read seems to suggest I would get better performance out of 1600 CL9 than the Sniper F3-17000CL11D-8GBSR. I'm also getting the impression that lower voltages is going to serve me better, but I assume that may be an oversimplified understanding of the situation, as my understandings generally are.
I was comparing these 3 potential replacement kits (to go with a P8Z68-V/GEN3 if I go that way). Any thoughts?
The F3-17000CL11D-8GBSR doesn't have to run its' Rated speed, if you look at CPU-z 'SPD' tab there you'll find other Frequencies and CAS Timings, you can use any of those pretty easily. If you set nothing in the BIOS aka defaults, then the RAM is running @ DDR3-1333. CPU-z -> http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
As far as the other kits listed above, as mentioned 'F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL' can have issues in two set configurations. The F3-12800CL9D-8GBXM is fine, and so is the F3-12800CL9D-8GBSR2. My fav's are the F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM, but at $75 they're pricey.
The F3-12800CL9D-8GBXM are color coordinated with the ASUS blue
As I have not seen it mentioned yet going over 1.5v DDR3 1333 voids the CPU warranty on a Sandy Bridge chip. You may want to consider the overclockers insurance if you plan on going over both voltage and speed.
Thanks again for taking the time to reply. I will be primarily (99+%) gaming on the machine. I noticed another minor difference, not sure if it will matter, but
F3-12800CL9D-8GBXM (RipjawsX 1.35V, blue) is "XMP ready"
F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL (RipjawsX 1.5V) is "XMP certified"
This is what I'm thinking. Which (if either) of those two kits is a better choice to go with this combination?
GTX560ti (single card, no SLI)
And is that a good setup? I know I don't personally need all the features of the P8Z68-V/GEN3, but I want the right motherboard and I'd rather have a few unused extra features than try to save a few bucks and wind up with an inferior board/BIOS/package. Any additional thoughts about 1.35V vs 1.5V, the XMP ready/certified distinction, or if any of it will matter with the P8Z68-V/GEN3?
Thanks for the help! Hate to be a pain, I realize I have a TON to learn. Heck, it'll probably take me years to learn to navigate this site efficiently.
Just started processing RMA on the old kit for a refund and ordered a new kit to go with the P8Z68-V/GEN3. Thanks again.