Computer Shutdown for the 4th time.

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humanstorm

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Dec 9, 2010
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I recently this Christmas 2010 built myself a rig for medium setting gaming (FPS). For some FREAKING reason, it starts to shutdown on me starting in mid Feb. I don't know for sure what is the problem but hypothesis, i think there are at least 3 main components could be my problem and just letting you know, I DIDN'T OC anything.

1st: GPU, Galaxy gtx 465. For 1st shutdown on me, i thought it was overheating, but what is overheating! I tried the BurnInTest with the CPU and it was fine. I downloaded HWImointor from CPUID to measure the temp. And the highest i got was 64*C it could be higher if i was able to see it before it shut down. Then artifacts start to pop up like 3 times then 2nd shutdown happened in this time period, i told a friend of mine about this, he was a evga freak :), he told me to do a driver sweeper and update to the newest driver which my gpu driver outdated. the problem was fix for now.
FYI: I don't have an on-board GPU

2nd PSU, I bought a rosewill PSU 600 watts which i will give you the links at the bottom. My friend said it isn't a good psu b/c its rosewill but based on the review, not all of them are negatives. But you never know when you get a bad PSU. I can't really test this one out b/c I do not have a spare PSU. sadly.

3rd is my ventilation. My case is a CoolMaster Elite 310 MidTower. I bought it with 2 additional 120mm fans, one in front which is blocked by the HDD bays and one is on the side with LED which directly intake air to the side of the GPU. I do have at last 4 blue LED light for cooling, 2 LED fans, CPU led, power fan LEDand GPU fan led. I talked to a friend of mine who is an IT guy and he said it could be my ventilation that is creating these overheat and the layout of my mobo power pins (those little pins that are next to the I/O) are getting all the heat that generated and exhausting from the CPU cooler. And I don't have top ventilation.

Links to all my parts.
ASUS 750a Motherboard
CoolMaster Elite 310 Case
Rosewill 600 Watts
Galaxy GTX 465 Fermi
Corsairs XM3 1600mhz 2x2gb
Kingston HyperX 1600mhz 2x2gb
Zalman 110 CPU Fan Cooler


If anyone have a brilliant idea of what is the problem, I would hug you and kiss you and all sort of things, no homo tho. :D




 
jsc

jsc

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Jul 14, 2004
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Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-posting-boot-problems
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.
The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboarding

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=youtube_gdata

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
 
jerreddredd

jerreddredd

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Mar 22, 2010
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Not sure what you meant by "4 blue LED Light for cooling" mmmm... LED's don't cool, they are just lights.

When you say "System Shutdown" exactly what do you mean? ie. the system just turns off, or the OS conducts an orderly shutdown?

Based on the your description I would suspect the PSU. I am not a fan of Rosewill PSU's. Get a good Corsair or Antec PSU.

Suggestions:

CORSAIR Enthusiast Series CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible ...
Item #: N82E16817139005
-$30.00 Instant
$10.00 Mail-in Rebate Card
$119.99
$89.99

CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-650HX 650W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power ...
Item #: N82E16817139012
-$20.00 Instant
$15.00 Mail-in Rebate Card
$139.99
$119.99

CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650 V2 650W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power ...
Item #: N82E16817139020
-$20.00 Instant
$20.00 Mail-in Rebate Card
$119.99
$99.99

Antec EarthWatts EA650 650W Continuous Power ATX12V Ver.2.2 / EPS12V version 2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified ...
Item #: N82E16817371015
-$30.00 Instant
$99.99
$69.99

Antec High Current Gamer Series HCG-620 620W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V v2.91 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Item #: N82E16817371048
-$5.00 Instant
$94.99
$89.99



A check on your case cooling:

The front and side fans should be intake and the back fan should be your exhaust. your rear fan (exhaust) should move the most air, so you will want one that moves around 80CMF. this is assuming the front and side fans are typical 30-45CMF fans. I'm a fan of Scythe brand fans.

BTW:Did you check you system event logs to see if the was an entry after your system shut down?
 
H

humanstorm

Distinguished
Dec 9, 2010
5
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18,510


Sorry i didn't state very clear about my system shutdown, i was playing Bad Company 2/ Homefronts recently and the system just shutdown on me, i give it a 3 mins before i start to boost. And it restarted without any problem.

@jsc Thanks for the help links, but i don't think that is what i am looking for. But the checking system method is exactly what i am going to do next.
 
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