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I7 2600k Build, ~$2000 Budget, Advice Welcome

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March 20, 2011 9:05:12 PM

I had a P67 build ready to go before the recall, but I had to wait like everyone else for the revised motherboards and I am now ready to give it another shot. I have decided to go with P67, but if there is a compelling reason to wait for LGA 2011 I would consider waiting. This will be my first build completely from scratch. I have been doing a lot of forum watching and the parts below are the result. My budget is around $2000. Thanks for all of your help and advice.

Approximate Purchase Date: ASAP, but I could wait if someone could give me reason enough to wait for LGA 2011.

Budget Range: ~$2000

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming, Adobe CS5, Internet, Microsoft Office

Parts Not Required: Monitor, Keyboard, Mouse

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Amazon and Newegg, Parts below are all Newegg

Country of Origin: United States


Case: HAF-942 ($180)

Processor/CPU:i7-2600k ($330)

Motherboard: Asus P8P67 Deluxe (Rev. 3.0) ($240) (Or should I go with P8P67 Pro?)

Cooler: Hyper 212+ ($30)

Memory: 2x G. Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 ($260) (Corsair Dominator Better?)

SSD: Crucial RealSSD C300 128GB ($225) (Or should I wait for Vertex 3?)

HD: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 7200 RPM 32 MMB Cache ($65)

Drive: Lite-On Blu-ray Burner ($110)

Video Card: EVGA Geforce GTX 580 ($500)

PSU: Corsair AX850 850W ($190)

Price ~$2120

Thanks again for all of your help and advice.
March 20, 2011 9:30:47 PM

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
- Antec Nine Hundred Two V3 Black Steel ATX Mid Tower: $110

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
- CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-850HX 850W 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular: $165

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
- Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit: $100

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
- ASUS Black 24X DVDRW: $18

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
- Intel 510 Series SSDSC2MH120A2K5 2.5" 120GB SATA III: $290 -> takes great advantage of the Sandy Bridge SATA3 controller

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
- 2 x SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB: $130 ($65 each) -> for a fast 2TB RAID0, or a 1TB RAID1 mirror drive -> your choice

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
- MSI P67A-GD55 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0: $165

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
- G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600: $130

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
- Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz: $329

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
- COOLER MASTER Hyper N 520 RR-920-N520-GP 92mm Sleeve CPU Cooler: $30

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
- GIGABYTE GV-N580UD-15I GeForce GTX 580: $500

TOTAL: $1966
March 20, 2011 9:47:05 PM

Thanks for the build. What is the difference between the corsair hx and ax psu? Just gold and silver rating? Also, is the cooling of the hyper n 520 far better then the 212 plus?
Related resources
March 20, 2011 11:07:00 PM

In terms of quality and cooling ability the Antec edges out the coolermaster. I'd choose the Antec every day of the week.

The build wasupmike posted is very good and would give you a pretty killer PC, but I think with a few component tweaks, you can get a better PC for less money:

The CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W is only $110 and supplies more than enough power for 2x GTX 580s in SLI in case you ever decide to go that route. It's just as solid as the Pro IMO.

MSI quality control has gone downhill recently so I would avoid that mobo. The Gigabyte GA-P67A offers pretty much the same features, better build quality, slightly better performance and layout and is $30 cheaper. No brainer, really.

Forget the Intel SSD, the OCZ Vertex 3 is out in the next few weeks and wipes the floor with the Intel in every way and is priced around the same.

Stick with the Intel reference cooler unless you're going to be overclocking, save yourself $30.

Not sure about that G-Skill ram... I think most of the extra cost is for the fruity-looking red heatsinks. I would go for the more conservative-looking and equally good Corsair 1600 RAM for $30 less.

I assume like most people you wont be using RAID-1. RAID-0 with two mechanical hard drives only offers very marginal performance benefits, especially with a super-fast SSD in the mix. I would go for a single 2TB drive with twice the cache rather than two 1TB. A single-drive configuration will also make less noise and use a fraction less power.

I assume you already have an OS you're happy with, so I haven't included the cost of Windows 7, but do make sure you install a 64bit OS.

My Build:

- INTEL 2600K - $329
- GIGABYTE GA-P67A: $135
- CORSAIR XMS3 1600 8GB: $100
- GIGABYTE GV-N580UD-15I GeForce GTX 580 $500
- ANTEC Nine Hundred Two V3: $110
- ASUS Black 24X DVDRW: $18
- CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W: $110
- OCZ Vertex 3 120gb SSD: ~$300
- SAMSUNG Spinpoint F4 2TB: $90

Total: $1692

Leaving you with $300 to play with. Maybe get a nice big LCD monitor, or a Blu-ray writer? Whatever you want really.
March 20, 2011 11:12:39 PM

McBane505 said:
Thanks for the build. What is the difference between the corsair hx and ax psu? Just gold and silver rating? Also, is the cooling of the hyper n 520 far better then the 212 plus?


pretty much yeah... i'd save the $ and go with the HX...

not far better, no... looks cooler though :) 

if you're going full tower... i'd go with the Antec 1200 v3 over the HAF X personally (both are great cases though)... The Antec has lots more fans - something to consider (3 x front intake, 2 x back exhaust + 1 large top), as well as the v3 has the front USB3.0 ports on it and 2.5" SDD bay too
March 20, 2011 11:18:04 PM

Thanks for the great replies and build tweeks. I will strongly consider the antec and the tweeks.
March 20, 2011 11:25:06 PM

i agree with Ten98 on the PSU - you would be most fine with the Corsair 750HX... good point

however on the HD comments i disagree - 2 x 1TB HD's in a 2TB RAID O array will be quite faster than 1 x 2TB HD (mind you more expensive - but with a $2000 budget - why not)

as for the Vertex 3 mopping the floor with Intel's 510... that's not true... they're quite similar in performance... and quite frankly... at those speeds... no-one will be able to tell the difference in real-world scenarios... only benchmarks...

so since the Vertex 3 is still not out yet... the new Intel 510 series is the one to go to now
March 20, 2011 11:38:50 PM

You're on the right track. Just a few things to add, or subtract.

MSI P67A-GD65 ($179) - MSI uses Military Grade Hi-C capacitors. Capacitors are usually the biggest problem in high end builds. This will help with overclocking (assuming since you want the (k) model) and longevity. The rest on other boards you'll probably barely use.

NZXT WHISPER WHI - 001BK ($120) - I'm not a fan of the cheesy clear side panels. This model still looks classy and illuminating. 2 x 120mm; 2 x 80mm fans

Intel Core i7 2600k ($330) - Best bang for the buck

COOLER MASTER Hyper N 52 ($30) - Think the 212 with dual fans and less noise

Kingston HyperX 8GB KHX1333C7AD3K2/8G ($105) - Kingston has a solid reputation ans has won many overclocking competitions. cas lat 7-7-7-20 is around the best you will find at 1600. Just don't buy into needing the faster RAM hype. At most, this is usually a MILLISECOND difference and not worthy of spending the extra money

Crucial RealSSD C300 128GB ($225) - I own one, and it is the best upgrade I have ever done to my computer. Consider if you need the 128GB model vs the 64GB, the 128GB has faster write speeds, but you'll be doing most of your writing to the HDDs.

Seagate Barracuda LP 2TB ST2000DL003 ($80 x 2 = $160) - At 140MB/s, this is the best deal on HDDs. Two of these in RAID will probably have you running close to the same speed as the C300.

EVGA 015-P3-1485-AR GeForce GTX 480 (Fermi) SuperClocked+ ($370 w/ rebate - $20 promo = $350) These cards are pretty much the best in the business. A 480 is only 10% slower than a 580; yet, this card is 30% cheaper than the 580, making this the best high performance bang for the buck

LITE-ON Black 12X Blu-ray Burner with Blu-ray 3D feature SATA Model iHBS112 ($110) - The higher model merely has Lightscribe, unless you like spending as much time burning a "hololabel" as burning the disc itself.

LITE-ON 24X DVD Writer Black SATA Model iHAS-324-98B ($23) - Get this because it's the fastest DVD Burner out there. Chances are that you'll burn more DVDs than Blu-rays

CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-850HX 850W ($165) - Pretty much the best 850W PSU out there.

Total = $1800
March 20, 2011 11:45:25 PM

wasup thanks for the great points about the psu and ssd/hd. ox thanks for the great part by part suggestions.
March 21, 2011 4:14:44 AM

Ten98 said:
In terms of quality and cooling ability the Antec edges out the coolermaster. I'd choose the Antec every day of the week.

The build wasupmike posted is very good and would give you a pretty killer PC, but I think with a few component tweaks, you can get a better PC for less money:

The CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W is only $110 and supplies more than enough power for 2x GTX 580s in SLI in case you ever decide to go that route. It's just as solid as the Pro IMO.

MSI quality control has gone downhill recently so I would avoid that mobo. The Gigabyte GA-P67A offers pretty much the same features, better build quality, slightly better performance and layout and is $30 cheaper. No brainer, really.

Forget the Intel SSD, the OCZ Vertex 3 is out in the next few weeks and wipes the floor with the Intel in every way and is priced around the same.

Stick with the Intel reference cooler unless you're going to be overclocking, save yourself $30.

Not sure about that G-Skill ram... I think most of the extra cost is for the fruity-looking red heatsinks. I would go for the more conservative-looking and equally good Corsair 1600 RAM for $30 less.

I assume like most people you wont be using RAID-1. RAID-0 with two mechanical hard drives only offers very marginal performance benefits, especially with a super-fast SSD in the mix. I would go for a single 2TB drive with twice the cache rather than two 1TB. A single-drive configuration will also make less noise and use a fraction less power.

I assume you already have an OS you're happy with, so I haven't included the cost of Windows 7, but do make sure you install a 64bit OS.

My Build:

- INTEL 2600K - $329
- GIGABYTE GA-P67A: $135
- CORSAIR XMS3 1600 8GB: $100
- GIGABYTE GV-N580UD-15I GeForce GTX 580 $500
- ANTEC Nine Hundred Two V3: $110
- ASUS Black 24X DVDRW: $18
- CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W: $110
- OCZ Vertex 3 120gb SSD: ~$300
- SAMSUNG Spinpoint F4 2TB: $90

Total: $1692

Leaving you with $300 to play with. Maybe get a nice big LCD monitor, or a Blu-ray writer? Whatever you want really.


First off anyone that thinks a 750w psu will push dual 580's and leave room for o/c needs to lay off the sauce. 850w is the bare minimum and that's pushing it. 900w + is more realistic.

Secondly congratulations on that Gigabyte board you purchased seeing how it runs 1 card @16x and the second card @ 4x.

Third that Corsair RAM you recommended is 1.65v, when every board manufacture and SB review recommends low voltage RAM..like 1.5v or less for the fact these 1155 boards don't do so well with crappy RAM that you need to juice with 1.65v to get it's rated timings and speed.

Last but not least, your probably the only poster on here that thinks that Antec has better cooling than the HAF X.
March 21, 2011 4:27:50 AM

AFAIK 750W is plenty to run SLI 580's....
March 21, 2011 4:29:50 AM

majin ssj eric said:
AFAIK 750W is plenty to run SLI 580's....

Really ? Link me to that site please.
March 21, 2011 5:18:53 AM

http://www.anandtech.com/show/4012/nvidias-geforce-gtx-...

http://www.guru3d.com/article/geforce-gtx-580-review/7

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... $199.99
ENERMAX REVOLUTION85+ ERV920EWT 920W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... $159.99 - $139.99 after mail-in rebate card FREE SHIPPING
PC Power & Cooling Silencer PPCS910 910W ATX12V 2.2 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Active PFC Power Supply Compatible with Core i7

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... $184.99
SILVERSTONE ST1000-P 1000W ATX 12V v2.3 & EPS 12V 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
March 21, 2011 10:14:37 AM

why_me thanks for the insight about the antec not cooling as well and the mobos and psu.
March 21, 2011 11:16:56 AM

Wasupmike:

I have to disagree, the Intel 510 is nowhere near as fast as the Vertex 3, which is due out any day now. You'd be a fool not to wait for it.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/4202/the-intel-ssd-510-review/4

Check the Anandtech review which explains *exactly* why you should not purchase the Intel 510.

As for the age-old RAID0 vs Single Drive argument, I agree that 2x 1TB in RAID0 is faster than 1x 2TB single-drive, but if you're using an SSD as your main system drive all you're using that RAID0 array for is long-term storage so it won't really offer any performance benefit. 2x 1TB drives are more expensive, hotter and noisier than a single 2TB drive.

I only use Samsung HDs in my PCs, I simply love the quality, performance and low noise of them. I have a couple of 1TB F3s and a 2TB F4. The F4 spins slower but gives much faster transfer rates than the F3, a it has higher data density. Since it's spinning slower it's also much, much quieter and runs much cooler than the F3s.

To run my Operating System from and all my apps, sure I'd go for RAID0 every time, but we've moved on from using hard drives for OS now and we're on to SSD, so there's no need to have a blazing fast HD array.

For long-term storage and backup purposes I'd have a single F4 over two F3's any day of the week.

Why Me: thanks for your insight but...

Antec 900 performance vs Coolermaster HAF:

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2009/02/25/antec-nine-hundred-two-902-review/4

At idle they're about the same, but check the results in "GPU Stress Test" and "CPU Stress Test" it's clearly a better performing case while being a lot cheaper and looking nicer (imo).

The spec is for a single-GPU machine, two 580s in SLI is just a future option which probably *wont* be taken.

Even so, 750W is more than enough for 2x GTX580s at stock. They use less than 300W each, leaving you more than 150W for the rest of the system, which is plenty. 900W+ is just overkill.

OP never mentioned overclocking, which is good, since overclocking a graphics card which is already close to the ragged edge like the 580 is pretty stupid. Nevertheless, if he wanted to OC his one GTX580 on a 750W PSU that would also be fine.

Again, low voltage RAM is not at all needed unless you're overclocking, which was not mentioned, and since this is his "first system build", not recommended either.

I'd love to see the source for your comment: "1155 boards don't do so well with crappy RAM that you need to juice with 1.65v" What does "Don't do so well" mean?

A P67 board will run perfectly well with 1.65V ram, you'll just be limited in the amount of overclock you can apply to it.
March 21, 2011 11:35:12 AM

Ten thanks for the insight and keeping what I mentioned in the original post in mind. Thanks for the link to the benchmarks.
March 21, 2011 11:36:10 AM

I think I will be waiting for the Vertex 3 and I may go to the HX Corsair PSU instead of the AX.
March 21, 2011 12:07:31 PM

I'll 2nd Why_Me posts. He has not steered me wrong yet. Based on experience over the last 6 months I definitely suggest not leaving yourself short when it comes to your PSU... but a lot of depends on your OC. On $2000 build you don't want the disappointment of instability, crashing or worse because you wanted to save $30-$50 bucks on your PSU.
March 21, 2011 12:32:43 PM

Sure, there's no harm in having too much power I guess. The 750W will be more than you ever need for a single GPU, the argument for 850W+ only really has any merit if the user intends at some point to upgrade to 2 graphics cards. Even then, 750W would be absolutely fine unless they are severely overclocked.

OP never said he wanted to OC or run 2 graphics cards, so this point is pretty much moot. Sure, waste $$$ on an overspecced PSU if you like.
March 21, 2011 12:51:38 PM

I plan on staying with the 580 for a few years. It should be able to play everything I throw at it for at least that time. So if the 750 will do the job, I will gladly save the money and look to upgrade when the time comes, but that will most likely be 2-3 yrs away.
March 21, 2011 1:03:30 PM

Ten98 said:
Wasupmike:

I have to disagree, the Intel 510 is nowhere near as fast as the Vertex 3, which is due out any day now. You'd be a fool not to wait for it.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/4202/the-intel-ssd-510-review/4

Check the Anandtech review which explains *exactly* why you should not purchase the Intel 510.

As for the age-old RAID0 vs Single Drive argument, I agree that 2x 1TB in RAID0 is faster than 1x 2TB single-drive, but if you're using an SSD as your main system drive all you're using that RAID0 array for is long-term storage so it won't really offer any performance benefit. 2x 1TB drives are more expensive, hotter and noisier than a single 2TB drive.

I only use Samsung HDs in my PCs, I simply love the quality, performance and low noise of them. I have a couple of 1TB F3s and a 2TB F4. The F4 spins slower but gives much faster transfer rates than the F3, a it has higher data density. Since it's spinning slower it's also much, much quieter and runs much cooler than the F3s.

To run my Operating System from and all my apps, sure I'd go for RAID0 every time, but we've moved on from using hard drives for OS now and we're on to SSD, so there's no need to have a blazing fast HD array.

For long-term storage and backup purposes I'd have a single F4 over two F3's any day of the week.

Why Me: thanks for your insight but...

Antec 900 performance vs Coolermaster HAF:

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cases/2009/02/25/antec-nine-hundred-two-902-review/4

At idle they're about the same, but check the results in "GPU Stress Test" and "CPU Stress Test" it's clearly a better performing case while being a lot cheaper and looking nicer (imo).

The spec is for a single-GPU machine, two 580s in SLI is just a future option which probably *wont* be taken.

Even so, 750W is more than enough for 2x GTX580s at stock. They use less than 300W each, leaving you more than 150W for the rest of the system, which is plenty. 900W+ is just overkill.

OP never mentioned overclocking, which is good, since overclocking a graphics card which is already close to the ragged edge like the 580 is pretty stupid. Nevertheless, if he wanted to OC his one GTX580 on a 750W PSU that would also be fine.

Again, low voltage RAM is not at all needed unless you're overclocking, which was not mentioned, and since this is his "first system build", not recommended either.

I'd love to see the source for your comment: "1155 boards don't do so well with crappy RAM that you need to juice with 1.65v" What does "Don't do so well" mean?

A P67 board will run perfectly well with 1.65V ram, you'll just be limited in the amount of overclock you can apply to it.


Not saying that your wrong about the whole HAF X vs Antec 900, but that source you threw up there doesn't even include the HAF X in there tests. The case they test is the HAF 932, which is not the HAF X. That would be the HAF 942.
March 21, 2011 1:07:22 PM

That is true. From what I have read, the HAF 942/X cools much better then the HAF 932. I was originally going to go with the HAF 932 because I like the look better then the X, but the X has better reviews.
March 21, 2011 1:08:27 PM

True enough, but there's not a huge difference between the X and the 932. The X has slightly improved ducting and venting for a dual GPU setup, but it's essentially the same case.
March 21, 2011 1:15:23 PM

The X also has integrated USB 3.0 which will help with allowing the case to be relavent in the upcoming years. I have heard that CoolerMaster is also working on a adapter for the X so the front usb 3.0 ports will work with the usb 3.0 headers on the P67 boards.
March 21, 2011 1:16:15 PM

McBane505 said:
That is true. From what I have read, the HAF 942/X cools much better then the HAF 932. I was originally going to go with the HAF 932 because I like the look better then the X, but the X has better reviews.


Ten98 said:
True enough, but there's not a huge difference between the X and the 932. The X has slightly improved ducting and venting for a dual GPU setup, but it's essentially the same case.


Well yeah, but HAF X does cool better than the 932 all around though. So who knows, the Antec 900 and the HAF X could provide the same results. Considering the 932 wasn't much far behind. Besides all that it comes down to what the person likes though.
March 21, 2011 1:33:22 PM

Very true, if only the X came in blue, :-).
March 21, 2011 1:38:36 PM

McBane505 said:
Very true, if only the X came in blue, :-).


That would be pretty sweet, not gonna lie lol.
March 21, 2011 1:45:36 PM

I mean, you could replace all of the fans, but at that point, the price would be huge. A blue edition like Cooler Master did for the HAF 932 would make sense.
March 21, 2011 1:49:59 PM

McBane505 said:
I mean, you could replace all of the fans, but at that point, the price would be huge. A blue edition like Cooler Master did for the HAF 932 would make sense.


Replacing all the fans would just be nonsense lol. They should make there fans where you can turn them blue or red. instead of selling separate ones.
March 21, 2011 1:54:48 PM

Interesting thought, I had never considered a changeable color fan.
March 21, 2011 3:49:28 PM

Wow, so much conflict on the case. Here's what I've learned after 24 years of doing this.

1) Get a case with 4 fans and create an air-conditioner like duct system across the main components. For example, you have 2 80mm close to the CPU. Reverse one of the fans to suck air in and the other will suck air out. Place air ducts into a small box that fits over the CPU and cooler. Just make sure the cooler fans and case fans are blowing in the same direction. This will give you maximum air flow and cooling for the best price, since cooling is all about air flow. Now create the same thing over the PCIe slots using the 120mm fans. You do not have to buy the highest rated case to get the best cooling. By creating a duct system, you can easily outperform the best cases. As long as you have these main components covered, you won't even need to worry about your RAM and HDDs. Some of the posters are correct. I would definitely want USB 3.0 on my front panel. You can either buy one already on the case, or save money and get an all-in-one card reader, usb 3.0, esata, audio panel of your choice. Personally, I would pick the most aesthetically pleasing case, since this is what you see 100% of the time, and upgrade according to my specific needs.

2) SSD DEGRADATION - Since no one else has brought it up, I will. Oh, it's easy to read which one of these has the fastest blazing speed when brand new, but many of the models begin to lose speed in the first few months. Something they like to keep quiet. These include the Intel and OCZ models. I began to read about this when I was researching for an SSD. Crucial was the only brand that did not show signs of degradation. I can say that, after a year of owning a C300 128GB, my drive has not slowed down a single MB.

3) OCZ has one of the worst reliability records in the computer component business, whether it's PSU, RAM, or anything else they make.

March 21, 2011 4:15:57 PM

Thanks for the great points ox. I had never heard of the SSD DEGRADATION. That is an excellent point and maybe I will stick with the C300.
March 22, 2011 1:05:39 PM

Recently built a system similar to original build posted in a Coolermaster CM690 II Advanced

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Just thought I'd throw it into the mix... it is one of the nicest, easy to organise cases I have built in and well priced.

Is there any reason you want such a massive case with the HAF X & Antec 1200 for your build? I guess it comes down to a personal preference, they do cool well. Always found cable management a pain with those big suckers :) 
March 22, 2011 3:51:11 PM

I was looking at the larger cases for ease of build, but perhaps a mid would be better. I was hoping I would have less issues with a larger build area.
March 22, 2011 3:52:51 PM

Thanks for the FYI on the Coolermaster CM690 II Advanced, I like the case.
April 4, 2011 4:28:45 AM

Formata said:
Recently built a system similar to original build posted in a Coolermaster CM690 II Advanced

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Just thought I'd throw it into the mix... it is one of the nicest, easy to organise cases I have built in and well priced.

Is there any reason you want such a massive case with the HAF X & Antec 1200 for your build? I guess it comes down to a personal preference, they do cool well. Always found cable management a pain with those big suckers :) 


McBane505 said:
I was looking at the larger cases for ease of build, but perhaps a mid would be better. I was hoping I would have less issues with a larger build area.


McBane505 said:
Thanks for the FYI on the Coolermaster CM690 II Advanced, I like the case.


I just built a computer in the HAF X and I found no problem at all for my cable management if anything it was easy. I have never built a computer from scratch in my life until this one. I was done with cable management in honestly 7-10mins, it's probably not the best in the world considering I've never done it before, and I was kind of anxious to get it together so I could use it, but I was impressed with myself. I am more than likely going to redo a little of it to make it a little bit prettier but for the most part everything is kind of nice and neat in my opinion, for a first timer at least. The case is amazing in my personal opinion and would recommend it to anyone.

I realized after taking this as well that my heatsink cable was tucked out of it's spot normally you don't see that at all, but whatever this is just to give you an idea what you can expect.




!