Computer won't turn on after lighting hits house

brunch

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Lighting hit my house today and now my computer won't turn on. There's a light on the motherboard, which is on, but I tried turning on the computer with a screwdriver to the power prongs, as well as by crossing the wires (I have no power button >_<). And nothing happened. No fans, nothing whatsoever.

Which component should I replace? A friend of my uncle who knows hardware told me it's definitely the power supply. Is that true? Keep in mind a motherboard light is on (even though computer is off, that light is always on).

Also, I have a surge protector. Why did this happen? How can I prevent it from happening again?
 

brianbuys

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Since your mobo's light is on, your PSU must still be providing some kind of power. Do fans spin? Your motherboard may still be fried though you have a light. That's what is would try first. And check whether you really have a surge protector or is it just a multi-outlet splitter. You can also check out your PSU by shorting it (just do a google search) and see if the power supply fans spin.
 
Pull out your power supply and a fan that isnt powered from the motherboard and perform the test shown in this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4

If the fan spins up then your PSU is still providing some power, if not its totally cooked. The lights on the motherboard are powered by a seperate power source in the PSU isolated from the primary power source so you could still have power on the 5VSB rail even nothing else worked.
 

westom

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Appreicate the problem. A completely defective supply can still spin fans and light indiicators. A defective supply may still boot a computer for months. Swapping parts can only identify some obvious failures. And create even more confusion. A supply can pass that paperclip test and still be completely defective. So the diagnostic tech then starts blaming other perfectly good parts.

For an answer without any doubts, the best solution is to measure six wires from the PSU with a multimeter. Somethhing so rediculously simple as to be sold even in Kmart. And in most any store that also sells hammers. Takes at least three time less labor to get the answer that has no doubts. The meter reports on all components of a power supply 'system' including components that determine whether a supply can power on or off and that are ignored by swapping and the paper clip test. And the resulting numbers mean others who know so much more can provide additional facts; identify other potential defects immediately.

Less labor also means answers without doubt. But that means spending $5 in Harbor Freight or $18 in Wal-Mart for one tool.
 

croc

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Not really.... If the (for instance) +12vdc supply is degraded, your DVM may well report good numbers... But under load it may drop to a level that's unusable, or with too high a ripple to be useful. So, while a good tool to have, a DVM is not the end-all of diagnostic tools.
 

westom

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No it will not. Without everything in a computer consuming power from that supply, then no test can define a supply as good. Your degraded 12 volts is only detected when no wires are disconnected, when the computer is drawing serious power, and only by numbers from the meter.

A degraded supply might still execute a computer for months. But numbers from a meter (which means all three digits and which enables analysis by others with superior experience) will make that defect obvious - immediately.

What might also detect problems with 12 volts? Numbers from the 3.3 and 5 volts. Only definitive solution available to layman is using a meter. Nothing else can provide an answer without doubts.

Good diagnostic procedure also says collecting facts without disconnecing or changing anything. A meter does that. Another reason why the paper clip test can create confusion and will not result in 'anwers without doubt'. The meter is recommened by one who designed supplies. Who was doing this long before the IBM PC even existed. And who sometimes must re-educate techs so that problems are solved the first time. We have no time or tolerance for procedures such as the paper clip test that can create confusion. That take so much more time and labor. And that can report a defective supply as good.
 

croc

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(Sigh) ...gee I feel stupid, once again. Hope that you are happy now.... As one that made the test equipment to test power supplies, back before Ogg invented the wheel, I think that it is safe to say for a definitive test of ANY power supply a simple DVM is not the answer. It may be a good quick diagnostic tool to see if everything 'looks OK', but it will not accurately measure the outputs under load unless it is an inline meter... And one of those, (as I am sure you are aware) that can handle the load amperage of even a cheap PSU will cost big bikkies.

So, in short, don't give people false expectations. There's a reason that a good PC PSU test bench costs ~50k.

And for brunch, a good pinout of the power connector can be found here:

http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml
 

brunch

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Hey guys guess what, a few hours later my computer started working again all by itself. Wtf happened?

Also, I checked under the surge protectors and they both say that they are surge protectors. Should I buy a better brand? One of them is really old. Can you recommend good surge protector?

My router was fried tho, and the internet is down at home (I'm at work right now >_>).

Alrigt, I'm going home now, but I'll see you guys tomorrow.
 

westom

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Tie knots in wires. That is also a surge protector. Your question is answered. Or you can view the manufacturer specification numbers for each strip. Like each knot, it only does effective protection when numbers define that protection for each type of surge. Best protector each power cord iis already inside each appliance.

If your protector does not make the always required short ('less than 10 foot') connection to earth, then those spec numbers will not list protection from each type of surge. A $7 protector sold in a supermarket is equivalent to a protector selling for $25 or $150. As spec numbers state. Numbers also define same protection in a wire knot.

 

compulsivebuilder

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Lightning can be too much for (almost) any of our modern technology.

A simple surge protector is designed to protect you against, for example, the power surging briefly from 110V to 300V, for a fraction of a second, with a current measured in amperes. A direct lightning strike, on the other hand, may be measured in many thousands of volts, and thousands of amperes. The average surge protector is not going to help. Kind of like expecting the drain in your sink to handle a flood :)

Glad to hear your computer seems to be working again! Guess you didn't get a direct lightning strike.
 

westom

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A surge protector that most recommend (due to education by advertising) does nothing until voltage exceeds 330 volts. Most do not read tech numbers even on its box. A protector does nothing - remains completely inert - until voltages well exceed 330 volts.

Surge protectors are for transients that might overwhelm superior protection already inside every appliance. A power strip protector often fails on surges too small to harm the adjacent appliance. But again, that becomes obvious when one first learns spec numbers rather than recite hearsay.

Ben Franklin's solution was taught in elementary school science. Lightning seeks earth ground. So it strikes conductive materials to obtain that earth connection - a wooden church steeple. But wood is not a very good conductor. Therefore 20,000 amps through wood creates high voltage. High voltage times 20,000 amps is high energy. Church steeple damaged.

Franklin connected a lightning rod to earth. 20,000 amps down a conductive wire to earth means near zero volts. 20,000 amps times near zero volts is near zero energy. No damage.

Same applies to a surge protector. Lightning only has high voltage when something tried to stop or block it - ie a protector adjacent to electronics. A protector connected short (ie. 'less than 10 feet') to single point earth ground means near zero voltage. Then appliances all over the house suffer no destructive surge. Then energy dissipates harmlessly outside and in earth.

Lightning rods and 'whole house' protectors are why reliable facilities suffer direct lightning strike routinely without damage. A science so well proven over the pat 100 years that damage is traceable to human failure. One source of surge damage is knowledge from advertising, hearsay, and wild speculation.

OP asked how to avoid future damage. Once a surge is inside the house, then nothing (but protection inside each appliance) can protect that appliance. So that superior protection already inside every appliance (ie router) is not overwhelmed, an informed homeowner earths every incoming wire Cable must already have that earthing as required by code and installed routinely by better cable companies. Telephone has had 'whole house' protectors installed for free longer before AT&T was broken up.

Most common surge that seeks earth ground is incoming on AC electric. Any hone without upgraded earthing and a 'whole house' protector can expect lightning to find earth destructively through appliances via the cable or telephone wire. Routers are often destroyed by surges incoming on AC electric; outgoing to earth via the communication wire. Damage so easily averted when a '$1 per protected appliance' solution is installed. Routine is to have direct lightning strikes without damage once one disposes of popular myths; instead learns the science

Lightning is typically 20,000 amps. A minimal 'whole house' protector starts at 50,000 amps. Because protection is installed to make even direct lighting strikes irrelevant. Protectors do nothing until voltage exceeds 330 volts. Numbers are even on the box. Most will recite wild speculation and hearsay rather than learn about protection already inside every appliance. Or forget what Franklin demonstrated in 1752. Direct lightning strikes without damage is routine when a protector does what a lightning rod does. Connect massive energy harmlessly to earth outside the house. What advertising hopes you never learn to protect sales.

A protector is only as effective as its earth ground. Protectors too close to appliances and too far from earth ground do not even claim to do protection. Explains why some recommend protectors that permit or make damage easier. Again, one should learn from spec numbers before recommending a “woe is me; nothing can stop lighting damage” myth. But a protector is only as effective as its earth ground. So many power strip protectors do not claim any protection. But are recommended anyway due to advertising and hearsay.