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D70 Night shots

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Anonymous
February 12, 2005 11:44:34 PM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

Hi

Any suggestion for D70 night shuts, need advice in bright night photos .
have you any experience with M setting ISO 200, appreciate it.

Cheers.

More about : d70 night shots

Anonymous
February 12, 2005 11:44:35 PM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

Majid Khosrow wrote:
> Any suggestion for D70 night shuts, need advice in bright night
photos .
> have you any experience with M setting ISO 200, appreciate it.

For night shots, you need:
- A fast lens
- A tripod
- ISO set to atleast 400, if not 800
- Nice lens hood to avoid flare during long exposures
- Mirror lockup
- Remote IR or wired shutter release. Failing these, use the timer
- Lots of patience

- Siddhartha
Anonymous
February 12, 2005 11:44:35 PM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

"Majid Khosrow" <makhosrow@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:W_sPd.8669$IW4.207367@news2.e.nsc.no...
> Hi
>
> Any suggestion for D70 night shuts, need advice in bright night photos .
> have you any experience with M setting ISO 200, appreciate it.
>
> Cheers.

Experiment, as you can see your results right away. The D70 will also allow
the ISO to float, where you set a minimum shutter speed you want to work
with, and the ISO will rise based on the shutter speed you set and the
maxumum aperture of the lens. I don't thing this works with the M setting,
however.
>
>
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Anonymous
February 12, 2005 11:44:35 PM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

Why the higher ISO speeds? Unless the subject is moving, all you gain
is a bit extra noise along with shorter shutter speeds.

I would also add - remove ANY filters from front of lens to avoid
double images.
Anonymous
February 13, 2005 12:25:52 AM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

chrlz@go.com wrote:
> Why the higher ISO speeds? Unless the subject is moving, all you
gain
> is a bit extra noise along with shorter shutter speeds.
Yes, I start with low ISO (100-200) but lower ISOs mean longer shutter
speeds as well. With longer shutter speeds the chance of stray light,
flaring, being disturbed by surrounding elements increases. In my Canon
300D, I find ISO-400 produces relatively noise free images.

>
> I would also add - remove ANY filters from front of lens to avoid
> double images.
Yes, a UV filter isn't going to help much in the night with the image
quality. But that said, I haven't noticed any double images in my shots
and my B+W UV filter always remains on.

- Siddhartha
Anonymous
February 13, 2005 12:43:56 AM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

I tried this settings with 18-70 mm, tripod, UV filter
happy with brightness but mirroring bothers ..... so I think ISO 200 coming
best out in landscape under moonlight.


Exposure Mode: Manuel
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
8 sec - F/7.1
Exposure Comp: -0.3 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 200
Optimize Image: Normal
White B: Auto -2
AF Mode: Manuel
Flash Sync: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode Ia (sRGB)
Tone Comp: Auto
Hue Adjustment: 0
Saturation: Normal
Sharpening: Auto



Cheers.




"Sheldon" <sheldon@XXXXXXXXsopris.net> wrote in message
news:o YydnR2GZIhh-JPfRVn-3g@comcast.com...
>
> "Majid Khosrow" <makhosrow@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:W_sPd.8669$IW4.207367@news2.e.nsc.no...
> > Hi
> >
> > Any suggestion for D70 night shuts, need advice in bright night photos .
> > have you any experience with M setting ISO 200, appreciate it.
> >
> > Cheers.
>
> Experiment, as you can see your results right away. The D70 will also
allow
> the ISO to float, where you set a minimum shutter speed you want to work
> with, and the ISO will rise based on the shutter speed you set and the
> maxumum aperture of the lens. I don't thing this works with the M
setting,
> however.
> >
> >
>
>
Anonymous
February 13, 2005 12:43:57 AM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

Majid Khosrow wrote:

> I tried this settings with 18-70 mm, tripod, UV filter

As others have mentioned.. Remove the UV filter for night
shots.

You'll most certainly wind up with reflections, especially
if you're shooting city scenes where there are lots of points
of light from things like signs, windows and street lights.

Quality multi-coated filters will reduce the reflections,
but no filter at all will work much better :-)

A lens hood is also a good investment.. Especially if you're
using a wide angle lens.


> happy with brightness but mirroring bothers ..... so I think ISO 200 coming
> best out in landscape under moonlight.
>
>
> Exposure Mode: Manuel
> Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
> 8 sec - F/7.1
> Exposure Comp: -0.3 EV
> Sensitivity: ISO 200
> Optimize Image: Normal
> White B: Auto -2
> AF Mode: Manuel
> Flash Sync: Not Attached
> Color Mode: Mode Ia (sRGB)
> Tone Comp: Auto
> Hue Adjustment: 0
> Saturation: Normal
> Sharpening: Auto
>
>
>
> Cheers.
>
>
>
>
> "Sheldon" <sheldon@XXXXXXXXsopris.net> wrote in message
> news:o YydnR2GZIhh-JPfRVn-3g@comcast.com...
>>
>> "Majid Khosrow" <makhosrow@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:W_sPd.8669$IW4.207367@news2.e.nsc.no...
>> > Hi
>> >
>> > Any suggestion for D70 night shuts, need advice in bright night photos .
>> > have you any experience with M setting ISO 200, appreciate it.
>> >
>> > Cheers.
>>
>> Experiment, as you can see your results right away. The D70 will also
> allow
>> the ISO to float, where you set a minimum shutter speed you want to work
>> with, and the ISO will rise based on the shutter speed you set and the
>> maxumum aperture of the lens. I don't thing this works with the M
> setting,
>> however.
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
February 13, 2005 1:55:29 AM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

When I started serious photography, there was only Manual.

For night work, you just have to experiment. f5.6 or f8, and guess at how
many seconds you might need, your guess is as good as anyones.
You will be able to review your result, and try again. The exposure time
also depends on what sort of result you want.

With longish exposures, any shake induced by you pressing the shutter
release will be insignificant, but it can be eliminated by using a very
short delay on Timed Release. For very long exposure times use "Bulb", and
live with the shake if you don't have a remote. Remember that most Tripods
are not all that rigid, and a wind can also induce Shake.

Unless your subject is moving, remember the Moon and Stars do move, then you
can use 200ASA, and just expose for longer.

Why were you using exposure compensation?

Why not save as NEF and then you can play around with White Balance on your
computer, when you convert to Tiff or PSD.

As always my advice is "Try it and See".

Roy


"Majid Khosrow" <makhosrow@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:W_sPd.8669$IW4.207367@news2.e.nsc.no...
> Hi
>
> Any suggestion for D70 night shuts, need advice in bright night photos .
> have you any experience with M setting ISO 200, appreciate it.
>
> Cheers.
>
>
Anonymous
February 13, 2005 4:21:17 AM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

Fun is the Manual part :-) otherwise lots of settings to remember LOL.

I got a good result on f10 in 15 sec. shooting city scenes with a lot of
street lights, but
its not easy moving around city with a tripod along.

I think is much better to do all sharpen, tone comp, color modes on camera
then doing
PS or Nikon CE.

Sometimes I get blur (spot) in my pictures (look likes reflection),
especially around the moon, maybe is time to
get a remote (I have suspicious about shakes when I press the shutter- as
you mentioned).

Cheers



"Roy" <royphoty@iona-guesthouse.co.uk> wrote in message
news:BPvPd.3174$GW4.2721@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...
> When I started serious photography, there was only Manual.
>
> For night work, you just have to experiment. f5.6 or f8, and guess at how
> many seconds you might need, your guess is as good as anyones.
> You will be able to review your result, and try again. The exposure time
> also depends on what sort of result you want.
>
> With longish exposures, any shake induced by you pressing the shutter
> release will be insignificant, but it can be eliminated by using a very
> short delay on Timed Release. For very long exposure times use "Bulb", and
> live with the shake if you don't have a remote. Remember that most Tripods
> are not all that rigid, and a wind can also induce Shake.
>
> Unless your subject is moving, remember the Moon and Stars do move, then
you
> can use 200ASA, and just expose for longer.
>
> Why were you using exposure compensation?
>
> Why not save as NEF and then you can play around with White Balance on
your
> computer, when you convert to Tiff or PSD.
>
> As always my advice is "Try it and See".
>
> Roy
>
>
> "Majid Khosrow" <makhosrow@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:W_sPd.8669$IW4.207367@news2.e.nsc.no...
> > Hi
> >
> > Any suggestion for D70 night shuts, need advice in bright night photos .
> > have you any experience with M setting ISO 200, appreciate it.
> >
> > Cheers.
> >
> >
>
>
Anonymous
February 13, 2005 11:44:35 AM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

"Majid Khosrow" <makhosrow@hotmail.com> wrote:

....
> I think is much better to do all sharpen, tone comp, color modes on
> camera then doing PS or Nikon CE.
>

How so?
Anonymous
February 14, 2005 5:34:12 PM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

Majid Khosrow <makhosrow@hotmail.com> wrote:

>Any suggestion for D70 night shuts, need advice in bright night photos .
>have you any experience with M setting ISO 200, appreciate it.

No one seems to have mentioned the "dark noise subtraction" mode,
which you can switch on from custom settings. I've not found need
for it myself, but it helps if you have some hot pixels. (It takes
a second exposure with shutter closed, and uses it to compensate
noise in the image).

--
Ken Tough
Anonymous
February 17, 2005 2:41:40 AM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

Ken Tough <ken@objectech.co.uk> wrote:


> No one seems to have mentioned the "dark noise subtraction" mode,
> which you can switch on from custom settings. I've not found need
> for it myself, but it helps if you have some hot pixels. (It takes
> a second exposure with shutter closed, and uses it to compensate
> noise in the image).
>

You'll also need it if your exposure is long enough to show the dreaded
'amp glow'.
!