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Did I just break my computer....?

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June 25, 2011 12:52:31 AM

So I decided to replace my Phenom II with a 2500k. I bought a new motherboard (ASUS p8-67m pro) and a 2500k from amazon. I unpluged my computer, grounded myself, unplugged the motherboard and components, unscrewed it, took it out, placed my new one in, screwed it in, attached the CPU, and then plugged everything in best I could. It won't start now - when I press the power button, it just sits there dead. I've tried swapping around what RAM dimms I'm using (hynix 2gig x3), but to no avail.

I have the 20 pin and 4 pin PSU connectors in on one side, and 2 4 pin connectors near the CPU. The green LED on the motherboard does light up, but I think its just running off the battery. I'd be so grateful for help....

Thermaltake TR2 600w PSU so I have the power...

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June 25, 2011 1:22:58 AM

"plugged in everything the best I could".....this is a cause for concern, to stay the least....; your MB has a manual with detailed pinout, i suggest you use it.

You will need to double check all power connections to MB, with extra attention paid to PWR SW header from case switches to MB, cpu fan to correct header, and CPU aux power inputs from PSU to MB .....

You can completely remove the gpu, drop to a single stick of RAM in required slot, disconnect all hard drive power inputs as well...; since GPU is missing, system should at least power up and beep constantly to reflect 'no VGA adapter found'....
June 25, 2011 2:00:02 AM

CPU pins aren't bent. The motherboard seems to be working somewhat - when I plug it in and turn the PSU on and then old down the "Mem OK" button to test the RAM the CPU and case fan both run.
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June 25, 2011 2:08:49 AM

It may be that I don't have my On/Off switch plugged in..? I have a wire coming from the area of the on off switch at the top of my computer (origin is hidden by my optical drive case) it is a 4 pin top 5 pin bottom arrangement. It only fits in one place on this motherboard, and that place is too far for it to reach.
June 25, 2011 2:26:09 AM

old motherboard works when i plug that thing in..... any idea what i should do? it wont reach the pin on my new motherboard
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a b V Motherboard
June 25, 2011 3:49:31 AM

Wire it by hand, if you have to. Attach wires to the FP header. Or, better yet, cut the header, strip its wires and install an extension in the middle to maintain the connector on the end. If you're confident with wiring, this shouldn't be a big deal, as it isn't exactly a delicate, precise connection.
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a b V Motherboard
June 25, 2011 7:23:37 AM

You say you plugged 2x4pins into the cpu socket?
are you sure its the correct one? the connector is an 8pin block that splits into two,
you may have the pcie plugs in there in error
as for the front panel wires, if you dont want to diy, get some of these from here http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1839/ele-190/FrozenCP... so they reach the required spot
Moto
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a b V Motherboard
June 25, 2011 9:30:58 AM

Motopsychojdn said:
You say you plugged 2x4pins into the cpu socket?
are you sure its the correct one? the connector is an 8pin block that splits into two,
you may have the pcie plugs in there in error
as for the front panel wires, if you dont want to diy, get some of these from here http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1839/ele-190/FrozenCP... so they reach the required spot
Moto


The 8-pin AUX power connector has different shape pins from the 8-pin PCIe connector - you cannot fit the wrong connector in (well, not without an awful lot of force!).

Not having the front-panel switches attached could be part of your problem.

You can turn it on by simply shorting the power switch pins - that would let you test it, at least.

I always prefer to install the CPU, cooler, and RAM before installing the motherboard in the case. Most of the coolers I favour require a backplate, so you have to install it before screwing the motherboard into the case.
a c 172 à CPUs
a c 156 V Motherboard
June 25, 2011 12:35:37 PM

Your TT PSU is not the best in the world. I wouldn't even call it average.

Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.
The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
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