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I7-2600k 98c temp on load

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July 4, 2011 12:13:59 AM

I just wanted to know if this is normal, I have a I7-2600k not OC, and it is running max 98c temp when rendering. Is this normal or okay temp?

I am running stock heatsink that comes with it. I am monitoring with CPUID, idle is 35-41c on all cores.

More about : 2600k 98c temp load

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July 4, 2011 1:21:43 AM

No it is not normal and is likely to burn out your CPU long before its time. You either need to reseat the stock heatsink/fan better or best of all, get a cheap cooler like the CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ that will be far better

My 2600K is at 4.5 ghz right now and I am just a hair under 70 C on full load over several hours
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July 4, 2011 2:22:44 AM

bearclaw99 said:
No it is not normal and is likely to burn out your CPU long before its time. You either need to reseat the stock heatsink/fan better or best of all, get a cheap cooler like the CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ that will be far better

My 2600K is at 4.5 ghz right now and I am just a hair under 70 C on full load over several hours



Damn Really, I set it right, it's nice and tight, what can it be? Heatsink seems to be pulling a 2010-2030rpm.

I'll look into getting a better heatsink, but it seems, weird that it's so hot with the stock. does this happen sometimes?
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July 4, 2011 2:27:21 AM

You say that's the temperature when rendering. What's the temp after running Prime95 for an hour?
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July 4, 2011 2:34:31 AM

bearclaw99,

I see that you use a Noctua NH-U12P SE2, is that a better heatsink to use. I never OCed before, but was thinking about doing it.

the COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus looks nice though.
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July 4, 2011 2:37:26 AM

Leaps-from-Shadows said:
You say that's the temperature when rendering. What's the temp after running Prime95 for an hour?



Never ran Prime95, don't really no anything about OCing. I want to try OCing though. But i used 3dsmax for Rendering since I thought that would be the biggest stress you could put on a processor for 4 minutes and monitored the temps in CPUID.

I don't know, what do you think?
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July 4, 2011 2:49:16 AM

Is their a place where I can find correct temps for different cpus, my friend said he use to know a site, that showed you normal cpu temps but he couldn't remember what site. :pt1cable: 
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July 4, 2011 3:46:45 PM

doody said:
Never ran Prime95, don't really no anything about OCing. I want to try OCing though. But i used 3dsmax for Rendering since I thought that would be the biggest stress you could put on a processor for 4 minutes and monitored the temps in CPUID.

Prime95 is kind of the standard around here to check whether the cooler is operating like it should, which is why I suggested using it. I've never done any rendering, so I don't know whether it puts more stress on the CPU than Prime95 does.

I've never seen a site like that. It might be out there, but I probably wouldn't trust it unless it was run by someone I know from the various forums I visit.
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July 4, 2011 9:54:05 PM

doody said:
bearclaw99,

I see that you use a Noctua NH-U12P SE2, is that a better heatsink to use. I never OCed before, but was thinking about doing it.

the COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus looks nice though.



The Noctua is better yes, but not by a great difference. The CM 212+ is a very solid cooler for the price
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July 5, 2011 5:21:33 AM

What are your idle temps? That may tell us more as to whether it is likely the cooler or something else. Don't suggest that you "did something right" when you come here asking about that exact point. Reseat your processor and heatsink and make sure all the pins on the HSF (Heast Sink/Fan) are correctly in the holes and none of the plastic clips are bent back. I can't speak for all processors however, in general, a good idle temp for any CPU is 40 C or below and under load, around 70 C is decent. This is just a ballpark, all processors are different. I usually like to see Core 2's at 35 C at idle with stock cooler. It is a bit surprising your motherboard didn't shut down with temps that high. If you disabled tempurature warning in the BIOS, turn it back on. This setting should only be changed/disabled by extremely experienced PC enthusiasts. (I NEVER disable the shut down temp. Mine is set to 85 C in all my systems and has only been triggered once or twice. When a stock cooler fan died)

REMEMBER!!! If you have been using the computer, turn it off and let it sit for about half an hour BEFORE removing the cooler. The CPU is still HOT and NEEDS to dissipate heat even after it has been turned off. (Similar to letting baked goods sit and "cure" when removed from the oven. Why you don't take cookies out when they are done but when they look *almost* done, they are still hot and are still cooking from internal heat after removed) This is an easy thing for even experienced users to forget. And can spell the demise of a processor very quickly.

One last dumb check (Honestly, we have ALL made this mistake at some point in our CPU temp careers) You are SURE you are seeing the temp in Celsius and not Fahrenheit ? A lot of younger builders from the states often set if to F and then forget about that because all other PC temps are in C. Just check that and make sure you are reading it correctly. WE have all made this mistake, whether we noticed it before getting concerned. I'm used to mental C to F conversions but, others may need to sit and calculate.

Hope your fever breaks soon! I sick PC is no fun.
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July 5, 2011 6:09:30 AM

puttsy said:
What are your idle temps? That may tell us more as to whether it is likely the cooler or something else. Don't suggest that you "did something right" when you come here asking about that exact point. Reseat your processor and heatsink and make sure all the pins on the HSF (Heast Sink/Fan) are correctly in the holes and none of the plastic clips are bent back. I can't speak for all processors however, in general, a good idle temp for any CPU is 40 C or below and under load, around 70 C is decent. This is just a ballpark, all processors are different. I usually like to see Core 2's at 35 C at idle with stock cooler. It is a bit surprising your motherboard didn't shut down with temps that high. If you disabled tempurature warning in the BIOS, turn it back on. This setting should only be changed/disabled by extremely experienced PC enthusiasts. (I NEVER disable the shut down temp. Mine is set to 85 C in all my systems and has only been triggered once or twice. When a stock cooler fan died)

REMEMBER!!! If you have been using the computer, turn it off and let it sit for about half an hour BEFORE removing the cooler. The CPU is still HOT and NEEDS to dissipate heat even after it has been turned off. (Similar to letting baked goods sit and "cure" when removed from the oven. Why you don't take cookies out when they are done but when they look *almost* done, they are still hot and are still cooking from internal heat after removed) This is an easy thing for even experienced users to forget. And can spell the demise of a processor very quickly.

One last dumb check (Honestly, we have ALL made this mistake at some point in our CPU temp careers) You are SURE you are seeing the temp in Celsius and not Fahrenheit ? A lot of younger builders from the states often set if to F and then forget about that because all other PC temps are in C. Just check that and make sure you are reading it correctly. WE have all made this mistake, whether we noticed it before getting concerned. I'm used to mental C to F conversions but, others may need to sit and calculate.

Hope your fever breaks soon! I sick PC is no fun.



In my first post I posted the idle temps, but now I disabled EPU in the bios and am getting better performance and the cpu and case fans are going much faster. so my Idle temps now are 30-36c, and yes I am reading in C. I am using CPUID, so I get C & F readings. the heatsink is solid on the Cpu, I checked for any give or wiggle, but no. I have not taken it completely off the cpu and replanted it.

If I take it completely off and replant it, should I remove the adhesive and put new one on? I would need to go buy some since I am using just stock heatsink adhesive that it came with. But it is running at 98c when rendering. It didn't trigger any alarm or shut down my computer, I don't know if I have internal speaker hooked up, maybe that's why I didn't hear an alarm. but I did not shut any alarm setting off in my bios.
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July 6, 2011 12:22:38 AM

Yes, unfortunately you would need to purchase new thermal paste. I use Arctic Silver for all my CPU's (It's a bit pricey but easily available. Radio Shack even sells it (a bit expensive but, cheaper than waiting I guess...plus, you don't pay shipping. Only your fuel fee.) so I would get some of them. Remember, less can be more when applying thermal paste. Clean off your processor and heatsink with paper towels and 91% rubbing alcohol (70% will do, but less ideal) and DO NOT touch the cooler or proc. with bare fingers after cleaning. Everyone has their own way of applying thermal paste so look around. I usually make a thin X and dot the middles of the 4 x openings. I may be "doing it wrong" but it has yielded good results for some hundreds of builds. To each their own. Ask around and read what others do if you want. It's YOUR PC, better to make it YOUR way so you can be that much more proud of it.

Also, when putting the heatsink on, "snap" in opposite corners first. Similar to changing a tire. Alternate sides that you are securing. That helps get an even spread of thermal paste.

Good luck and have fun!
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July 6, 2011 4:35:40 AM

puttsy said:
Yes, unfortunately you would need to purchase new thermal paste. I use Arctic Silver for all my CPU's (It's a bit pricey but easily available. Radio Shack even sells it (a bit expensive but, cheaper than waiting I guess...plus, you don't pay shipping. Only your fuel fee.) so I would get some of them. Remember, less can be more when applying thermal paste. Clean off your processor and heatsink with paper towels and 91% rubbing alcohol (70% will do, but less ideal) and DO NOT touch the cooler or proc. with bare fingers after cleaning. Everyone has their own way of applying thermal paste so look around. I usually make a thin X and dot the middles of the 4 x openings. I may be "doing it wrong" but it has yielded good results for some hundreds of builds. To each their own. Ask around and read what others do if you want. It's YOUR PC, better to make it YOUR way so you can be that much more proud of it.

Also, when putting the heatsink on, "snap" in opposite corners first. Similar to changing a tire. Alternate sides that you are securing. That helps get an even spread of thermal paste.

Good luck and have fun!



Hey thanks for all the help man :) 

Well I realized I still had a tube of Antec Formula 5 thermal paste. so I cleaned off the old compound with a razor, then cleaned it with 70% rubbing alcohol. then applied the new thermal paste, and I always click down on opposite corners when installing heatsink.

Well I ran the CPUID again to find nothing changed, full load on rendering still 98c :cry: 
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July 6, 2011 7:30:19 AM

I would like to have seen the results of a one-hour Prime95 run just to find out which works the CPU harder, but it doesn't really matter. You can't run anything consistently with temps at 98ºC and expect the CPU to last, so you you need a better hunk of metal to radiate the heat away.

Some would suggest the Hyper 212 Plus which is really good for $30, but I think you need something better. I recommend something along the lines of the Cooler Master V6 GT. Bigger cooler, better fans, lower temps.
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July 6, 2011 3:53:57 PM

Leaps-from-Shadows said:
I would like to have seen the results of a one-hour Prime95 run just to find out which works the CPU harder, but it doesn't really matter. You can't run anything consistently with temps at 98ºC and expect the CPU to last, so you you need a better hunk of metal to radiate the heat away.

Some would suggest the Hyper 212 Plus which is really good for $30, but I think you need something better. I recommend something along the lines of the Cooler Master V6 GT. Bigger cooler, better fans, lower temps.



I guess I will buy one, but I don't get it, this shouldn't be running this hot with a stock cooler, what the hell is going on? I tried everything. :cry: 

you think a bios update would help at all, maybe I'm getting wrong readings?
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July 6, 2011 4:38:18 PM

Okay I think I might have found what is wrong.

I run CPUID hardware monitor for temperatures.

well I downloaded CPUID CPU-Z to see more specs on how the cpu is running in GHZ. well Idle it's at 1600.0MHZ, but at rendering or full load it's at 4300.5MHZ, so for some reason it's overclocked, I left everything in bios alone, except for turning off the EPU, but that shouldn't have anything to do with it. My motherboard is the P8z68 Deluxe, so does that sound right on stock cooler if I'm running at 4.3ghz temps could reach up to 98c ? not all cores were that hot, some where lower 90c's.
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July 6, 2011 5:44:57 PM

Dammit! this fricken mother board came overclocked. How stupid. I restored defaults, and just ran normal mode. In EZbios, their are only three modes to choose from.

Power saving mode
Normal Mode
Asus optimal mode

in normal mode cpu ran at highest 3.5ghz, at a temp of 72c. Does that sound like a normal temp? also why is it maxing out at 3.5ghz, when the 2600k is suppose to turbo boost to 3.8ghz?

I guess Asus optimal mode is a auto overclock mode, cause in that mode it ran at 4.1-4.3ghz at a max temp of like 92-94c

rendering on overclocked as it was set before was 4min30sec, now in normal mode it's 6min16sec. looks like I better get that heatsink and overclock.
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July 6, 2011 8:57:49 PM

Here are the Heatsinks I found, Can somone tell me the best one? putting this in a antec three hundred case.

Cooler Master Hyper N520 CPU Cooler

Cooler Master V8

Cooler Master RR-V6GT-22PK-R1 V6 GT Multi-Socket CPU Cooler

Or should I water cool. I'm just afraid of water cooling because I've heard some horror stories, even from my friends that done it and it leaked on motherboard or graphics card and burnt out their system.

I'd like to have a nice 4.5-4.6ghz overclock.
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July 6, 2011 9:10:38 PM

I do not have a 2600k myself(wish I had the money) but those temps are NOT normal. I have a hyper tx-3 and 212+ and they work pretty well. For some reason my tx3 seems to work better but maybe the 212+ has more dust. I think tx3 or 212+ would be an improvement for you and also I use arctic silver 5 for all my builds.
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July 7, 2011 6:17:24 AM

Those temps actually are normal for the stock cooler.

You're right -- that optimal mode is an auto-overclocking mode that ASUS has. I don't know why they don't tell you that in the BIOS there.

If your rendering program uses all four of the cores, the Turbo Boost speed should be 3.5GHz, so it looks like it's operating normally. The other Turbo Boost settings are 3.8GHz for one loaded core, 3.7GHz for two, and 3.6GHz for three loaded cores.

You don't need water cooling to get 4.5-4.6GHz, but a good air cooler is essential. I'd still recommend the V6 GT for you, as it seems that your rendering program really stresses the CPU similar to Prime95.
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July 7, 2011 6:48:08 AM

I would go into the BIOS and set timings, clock speeds, and multiplier to where they *should* default at. I'm not sure what they all would be so look that up. Once you are setup so that everything is how it should be on stock (sans the Asus EZ-OC feature or whatever they have [They have had it for a while. I have an old P5Q-?? in a machine that has the same feature.] I suppose it's nice for people with more money than knowledge but, If you want to overclock, you should KNOW what you are doing. not rely on the board to make the decisions for you. But Asus does it because it sells, can't blame them, and I keep buying their boards...except I know how to configure it to OC :S)

I wouldn't water cool but that is more out of inexperience than knowledge. I have never had the opportunity to watercool a rig, don't have much of an interest, so I can't speak on that front and argue a valid reason one way or the other. Water Cooling experts, please share your experience and knowledge! Best I can say to you though is, if you have the budget, it would be a great learning experience. I started working in servers instead of water cooling. Invested my money there and it was worth it for me but for others, see what happens.

I do have to mention I am intrigued by your rendering. To the guy pestering about Prime95 vs. rendering, STOP. Rendering will produce much more draw and heat on the processor than those tests. That is because there is the variable of unknown in the rendering jobs whereas Prime95 has a pattern. The temps may get close, but rendering will blow prime out of the water in usage and load any day of the week. Yes, they may both appear to be using 100%, Rendering bill stay more constant longer. Most of the time anyway. (I used to work with a guy doing animation and such in 3DStudio Max and it was hella intense on the proc. Prime95 was nothing compared to all night rendering jobs)

Thermalpaste note: Antec Formula 5 is a decent compund too. I would rate it a bit less than Arctic Silver but not enough to buy it instead of using what you've got.

I've heard good things about the Corsair Hydro coolers. ( H50 | H60 | H70 | H80) But they are a bit spendy. They are a mid-ground between water-cooling and air cooling. May want to take a look at them. I saw temps drop 5+ degrees over a V6 similar style cooler.
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July 7, 2011 5:11:11 PM

Thanks for all the info guys, can't thank you enough. All seems to be running well except for this double boot crap. I've heard of others complaining about the double boot start up. Seems a lot think it has to do with the EPU & TPU switches, but both of mine are off, if the manual is correct.

I'm use to building animation servers so all this new OC & Asus optimal Settings that don't explain themselves was throwing me for a loop. I would like to try OCing, was wondering is their a section in these forums that people post stable OCing setting for their hardware, so this way I can use it as a preset or a guide and know it's stable. Didn't see that anywhere.
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July 7, 2011 8:28:37 PM

Do you have PLL Overvoltage enabled in the BIOS? Disabling it might help with the double-booting.
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July 8, 2011 2:38:08 PM

Leaps-from-Shadows said:
Those temps actually are normal for the stock cooler.

You're right -- that optimal mode is an auto-overclocking mode that ASUS has. I don't know why they don't tell you that in the BIOS there.

If your rendering program uses all four of the cores, the Turbo Boost speed should be 3.5GHz, so it looks like it's operating normally. The other Turbo Boost settings are 3.8GHz for one loaded core, 3.7GHz for two, and 3.6GHz for three loaded cores.

You don't need water cooling to get 4.5-4.6GHz, but a good air cooler is essential. I'd still recommend the V6 GT for you, as it seems that your rendering program really stresses the CPU similar to Prime95.


Wow, load at 98C is normal??? I thought most cpu's shutdown around 80-90C.
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July 8, 2011 4:45:07 PM

The stock cooler is a hunk of junk -- it cannot handle even a moderate overclock and over-volt. That's why it went all the way to 98ºC when the ASUS board auto-overclocked. I bet the CPU was actually throttling itself to keep the temp from going higher.

TjMax (max safe core temp) for Sandy Bridge CPUs is 98ºC. Still, you shouldn't run anywhere near that for any sustained amount of time. It can severely shorten the CPU's service life.

To keep Sandy Bridge happy for a long-term overclock:
1. Keep the peak Prime95 core temps below 75ºC
2. Keep the CPU voltage below 1.4v

For that, you need a good after-market cooler.
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July 8, 2011 6:38:47 PM

Leaps-from-Shadows said:
The stock cooler is a hunk of junk -- it cannot handle even a moderate overclock and over-volt. That's why it went all the way to 98ºC when the ASUS board auto-overclocked. I bet the CPU was actually throttling itself to keep the temp from going higher.

TjMax (max safe core temp) for Sandy Bridge CPUs is 98ºC. Still, you shouldn't run anywhere near that for any sustained amount of time. It can severely shorten the CPU's service life.

To keep Sandy Bridge happy for a long-term overclock:
1. Keep the peak Prime95 core temps below 75ºC
2. Keep the CPU voltage below 1.4v

For that, you need a good after-market cooler.



Cool, thanks Leaps-from-Shadows,

I'm gonna go with a Cooler Master RR-V6GT-22PK-R1 V6 GT Multi-Socket CPU Cooler, seems really good, I was thinking of water cool, or something like corsair H50 or higher, but i'm just afraid of watercooling and dripping something on my motherboard or what not. so might stick with the V6.
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July 12, 2011 5:46:54 PM

Wow yeah that CPU temp surprised me. I don't have an i anything processor so I didn't realize that was within normal range as well.

You probably shouldn't wait around for that cooler to come out because it will be at least a couple of months and we haven't seen any actual review yet. go with a decent current gen CPU cooler like hyper-212 or V6 as recommended by others above is probably the best option.

If you really want superior cooling you are better of making your own water-cooling system. Most of the inclosed systems only do a degree or two better than good air cooling.
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