$700-$900 Gaming PC request / Advice

Well this is sort of a dual request thread. If it isn't too much trouble, I'd like to have everyone review a build I've put together and post their thoughts, like where I could cut the cost down without sacrificing performance. I haven't used any combo deals in my build since I've been working on this for a while. ;_;

(For sake of thread length, I'll link to my public wish list instead of piecing out individual parts like the sticky suggests. http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/ [...] r=15880952


Next I would like to request the following build if the one I put together isn't worth nitpicking certain parts and you guys feel I could have a better system for the money.

Approximate Purchase Date: Around April 22, 2011 and I don't plan on upgrading for at least another year

Budget Range: $700-$850 Before Rebates

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming (Crysis series, Just Cause 2, Assassin's Creed, GTA4) MMOs (KOTOR 3, Vindictus), Emulation (Ps2, Dreamcast, DS, maybe Wii)

Parts Not Required: Monitor, keyboard, speakers)

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Newegg.com

Country of Origin: USA

Parts Preferences: Full tower/Large mid tower

Overclocking: No

SLI or Crossfire: No

Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080p

Additional Comments: I've used an HP Athlon X2 w/ integrated graphics on a 17" monitor my entire life, being able to play only Halo Trial @ low settings and extremely choppy MMOs. I'd like to max out (4x AA) most recent games and the ones I listed at 30+ FPS @ 1080p, but I'm perfectly fine with lowering some settings like particles or draw distances to get steady FPS... The only exception is Ps2/Wii emulation which will require at least a 3.2 GHz CPU to get stable gameplay and I won't really be able to lower settings.

Also, I chose a huge, pricey case in my above build for a reason. Since this is my first time actually building a PC, I figure my cable management is going to suck hard. I know heat kills hardware, and buying a huge case w/ great airflow and large fans (as well the vapor-x GPU) would make up for it if I do a horrible wiring job. I guess it's more of a safety net for the hardware and peace of mind for myself. It also might look better if I throw some purple cathodes in thar.



I greatly appreciate any responses I get.

ok, try this:

i5-2500: $210
AS Rock H61/U3S3: $80
4 GB DDR3-1333: $40
Samsung 1 TB HDD: $65
HD 6850: $165
Corsair CX430: $45
Antec 300 Illusion: $70
---
$694
Add Windows 7 home premium: $100

$794 total.

Oh wow, thanks for the quick replies

Sounds like the common theme here is going with the Intel i5 2300. How would it preform over the Phenom II X4 840 since it has a lower clock speed?

And I have to be honest here, I'm concerned about the power supplies that both of you chose. Based on the reviews, there's a 12% chance that the 550w Antec could be faulty / not last long, and a 51% chance for the 430w. Are there any others you could suggest?

I'll definitely go with the HAF 912 case if I end up going with Intel to lower the cost.

the 2400 is a very solid gaming CPU, does everything you might ask of it.

The CX 430W is actually VERY reliable, and is a JonnyGuru recommended buy. I'm using it myself.

Antec and Corsair are two of the top-5 PSU makers, very reliable companies with quality parts.

I use a $165 HD 6850 myself. Most HD 6870 models are in your $200 price range:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] geSize=100

the only real difference is quality of build materials, warranty, what sort of fan/heat sink chosen, and if they overclocked the GPU or its Memory. If the GPU & Memory clocks are the same, it'll have similar performance. Different fans may give different heat and noise levels, and overclocks will be faster that reference cards.

Otherwise no real difference