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Need advice on component compatibility

Hi everyone, first time builder.

I’ve spent many hours reading and researching to come up with the components below. Could use your advice about compatibility of the components and upgrade/change recommendations.

Approximate Purchase Date: Within a month

System Usage from Most to Least Important: I use the computer for everyday tasks, MS office applications, internet, etc. I also use it for Photoshop and video editing and the occasional game but I just don’t have the time to be a heavy gamer.

Parts Not Required: I have a WD Caviar Blue 1TB that I can use for my non-boot HDD, Operating System, Mouse, scanner and printer. Everything else I have should be thrown out.

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Canadacomputers.com and newegg.com for research

Country of Origin: Canada

Overclocking: I don’t overclock, mainly because I don’t know how, don’t think I need to for my purposes. Also don’t have the time to figure it out.

SLI or Crossfire: No

Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080

Additional Comments: I’m looking for a system that will boot up fast, run fast and not too loud. I don’t mind paying a little extra for some of the components as I don’t upgrade that frequently so getting components that will last a little longer works for me.


Here’s what I’m thinking of piecing together:

Intel Core i7 2600k Sandy Bridge

MOTHERBOARD = Asus P8P67 Deluxe B3

MEMORY = G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series DDR3 1600MHz 8GB (2x4GB) Dual Channel Kit

POWER SUPPLY = Corsair Professional Series Gold CMPSU-750AX Full Modular 750W Power Supply

VIDEO CARD = Gigabyte Super Overclock Series GV-N560SO-1GI GeForce GTX 560 Ti Video Card - 1GB, GDDR5, PCI-Express 2.0 (x16), Dual DVI, HDMI, DirectX 11, SLI Ready

BOOT DRIVE = Crucial RealSSD C300 2.5" 128GB SATA III

OPTICAL DRIVE = ASUS DRW-24B1ST Black SATA

HEATSINK = COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus Heatsink

THERMAL COMPOUND = Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound – OEM

CASE = Cooler Master 690 II Advanced

MONITOR = ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" 5ms HDMI Full 1080P Widescreen LCD Monitor

KEYBOARD = Logitech Comfort Curve Wireless Keyboard K350 (Retail Box)

SPEAKERS = Logitech 2.1 Z523 Stereo Speaker System (Retail Box)

OS = Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit (already have)

I recognize that it`s probably a bit of an overkill for someone who doesn`t OC and play games all that often, but I want a fast machine that will last a bit of time.

Here are some specific questions:
1) Does anyone have experience installing the 212 + HS on this mobo? Can it be done without losing RAM slots?
2) Does anyone have experience installing the 212 + HS in this case? Can it be done without having to mod the case?
3) I think 8GB RAM is sufficient. What would be the purpose of installing 16GB RAM which I’ve read a few people doing? Am I missing something?
4) The G.Skill DDR3 above is stated as “Designed Specifically for Intel Sandy Bridge CPUs, H67 and P67 Platforms”, however, it’s not on the Asus QVL– Memory/Device support tab. Should I stay away from it? Has anyone used this memory successful on this mobo?
5) Thoughts about the video card? I had a hard time selecting between the technical specs?
6) Any other components I should change/upgrade or that won’t be compatible?
7) Is it better to connect your monitor to the video card via HDMI or DVI cable?
8) For a first time builder, how complicated is it to use the online guides and put this puppy together? Should I pay a local shop to do it (that would take all the fun out of it :( ? Maybe I could watch.

Any help is appreciated.
24 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about need advice component compatibility
  1. Quote:
    1) Does anyone have experience installing the 212 + HS on this mobo? Can it be done without losing RAM slots?

    Reviewers have reported that slot 1 is lost when installing on p67Mb's.

    I recommend a CM GeminiII. cools well and is quiet. it also can be rotated to move the heatpipes away from the ram slots. I am runnign one on a mATX ASUS P8P67-M Pro MB with RipJaw X memory and I have about a 1/16" of clearance in slot 1. I would have to remove the Heatsink to change out the Ram though. so make sure to install Ram before mounting the HSF.
    Quote:
    3) I think 8GB RAM is sufficient. What would be the purpose of installing 16GB RAM which I’ve read a few people doing? Am I missing something?

    8 should be fine and does reduce swap file usage. if you do a lot of video editing 16GB may be worth a look. below is a good article on Ram:
    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ram-memory-upgrade,2778.html
    Quote:
    4) The G.Skill DDR3 above is stated as “Designed Specifically for Intel Sandy Bridge CPUs, H67 and P67 Platforms”, however, it’s not on the Asus QVL– Memory/Device support tab. Should I stay away from it? Has anyone used this memory successful on this mobo?

    it works fine on my MB. I had to set the memory manually to 1600 as the P67 platform defaults to 1333. Other reviews report no issues on any P67 MB's with the G.skill RipJaw X Ram.
    Quote:
    BOOT DRIVE = Crucial 128GB RealSSD C300 1.8" SATA 3 Solid State Drive

    this SSD is not a good performer. you would be better off (in my opinion) with a SandForce based SSD. you will save about $30 too:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231415
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233160
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233125
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226152

    Quote:
    VIDEO CARD = Gigabyte Super Overclock Series GV-N560SO-1GI GeForce GTX 560 Ti Video Card - 1GB, GDDR5, PCI-Express 2.0 (x16), Dual DVI, HDMI, DirectX 11, SLI Ready

    this will be a quieter card and is better rated.
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127565&cm_re=gtx_560_ti-_-14-127-565-_-Product

    Quote:
    7) Is it better to connect your monitor to the video card via HDMI or DVI cable?

    Darn good question... I don't know. I always use DVI.

    Quote:
    8) For a first time builder, how complicated is it to use the online guides and put this puppy together? Should I pay a local shop to do it (that would take all the fun out of it :( ? Maybe I could watch.

    it's so easy a caveman could do it. lol
    You should be alright with the online guides as long as you are not technology challenged.

    some money saving sugestions:
    MB:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157229&cm_re=p67_motherboard-_-13-157-229-_-Product
    PSU:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139010
  2. jerreddredd said:
    Quote:
    1) Does anyone have experience installing the 212 + HS on this mobo? Can it be done without losing RAM slots?

    Reviewers have reported that slot 1 is lost when installing on p67Mb's.

    I recommend a CM GeminiII. cools well and is quiet. it also can be rotated to move the heatpipes away from the ram slots. I am runnign one on a mATX ASUS P8P67-M Pro MB with RipJaw X memory and I have about a 1/16" of clearance in slot 1. I would have to remove the Heatsink to change out the Ram though. so make sure to install Ram before mounting the HSF.
    Quote:
    3) I think 8GB RAM is sufficient. What would be the purpose of installing 16GB RAM which I’ve read a few people doing? Am I missing something?

    8 should be fine and does reduce swap file usage. if you do a lot of video editing 16GB may be worth a look. below is a good article on Ram:
    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ram-memory-upgrade,2778.html
    Quote:
    4) The G.Skill DDR3 above is stated as “Designed Specifically for Intel Sandy Bridge CPUs, H67 and P67 Platforms”, however, it’s not on the Asus QVL– Memory/Device support tab. Should I stay away from it? Has anyone used this memory successful on this mobo?

    it works fine on my MB. I had to set the memory manually to 1600 as the P67 platform defaults to 1333. Other reviews report no issues on any P67 MB's with the G.skill RipJaw X Ram.
    Quote:
    BOOT DRIVE = Crucial 128GB RealSSD C300 1.8" SATA 3 Solid State Drive

    this SSD is not a good performer. you would be better off (in my opinion) with a SandForce based SSD. you will save about $30 too:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231415
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233160
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233125
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226152

    Quote:
    VIDEO CARD = Gigabyte Super Overclock Series GV-N560SO-1GI GeForce GTX 560 Ti Video Card - 1GB, GDDR5, PCI-Express 2.0 (x16), Dual DVI, HDMI, DirectX 11, SLI Ready

    this will be a quieter card and is better rated.
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127565&cm_re=gtx_560_ti-_-14-127-565-_-Product

    Quote:
    7) Is it better to connect your monitor to the video card via HDMI or DVI cable?

    Darn good question... I don't know. I always use DVI.

    Quote:
    8) For a first time builder, how complicated is it to use the online guides and put this puppy together? Should I pay a local shop to do it (that would take all the fun out of it :( ? Maybe I could watch.

    it's so easy a caveman could do it. lol
    You should be alright with the online guides as long as you are not technology challenged.

    some money saving sugestions:
    MB:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157229&cm_re=p67_motherboard-_-13-157-229-_-Product
    PSU:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139010


    Thanks for the reply jerreddredd.

    The GeminII looks good, any idea if it would fit the 690 II Advanced?

    How do you set your memory manually? How do you check to see if that's even necessary?

    Sorry, I linked the wrong SSD. The one i'm considering is the Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD). At first, I was looking at the G.SKILL Sniper Gaming Series but changed my mind based on the good reviews for the Crucial. I've updated my original post to reflect this correction.

    Haven't considered the MSI Twin Frozr II. Looks like "MSI N560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II OC was no match for the Gigabyte and Galaxy cards". However, I may not need that extra performance boost. Having said that, my local retailer has the MSI listed for $276 while the Gigabyte card is listed at $235. Seems like I would get better performance with a louder card for $40 less. How much louder is the Gigabyte card?

    Thanks again for your reply, really appreciate the input!
  3. zona said:
    Thanks for the reply jerreddredd.

    The GeminII looks good, any idea if it would fit the 690 II Advanced?


    yes its a low profile cooler. I have one in my mATX Vulcan case. I replaced the stock fan with a 110CMF killer LED fan. see pics here:
    http://www.nzxt.com/forum/showthread.php?8419-JD-s-NZXT-Vulcan-Build&p=54292#post54292


    Quote:
    How do you set your memory manually? How do you check to see if that's even necessary?

    in the Bios/UEFI, its simple, you MB manual should tell you how to.

    Quote:
    Sorry, I linked the wrong SSD. The one i'm considering is the Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD). At first, I was looking at the G.SKILL Sniper Gaming Series but changed my mind based on the good reviews for the Crucial. I've updated my original post to reflect this correction.


    That one is better, but I still think the G.skill Sniper/(Sandforce based SSD's) are a better buy and will be a slightly better performer, but your choice is not a wrong choice.

    Quote:
    Haven't considered the MSI Twin Frozr II. Looks like "MSI N560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II OC was no match for the Gigabyte and Galaxy cards". However, I may not need that extra performance boost. Having said that, my local retailer has the MSI listed for $276 while the Gigabyte card is listed at $235. Seems like I would get better performance with a louder card for $40 less. How much louder is the Gigabyte card?

    Thanks again for your reply, really appreciate the input!

    here is a link to Tom's test of 5 different GTX 560 Ti's:
    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-560-ti-roundup-asus-engtx560-graphics-card-overclocking,2858-20.html

    It looks like a wash, the MSI is 4 dba quieter unless at a full load then its 2 dba more noisy, but it runs 10-20C cooler also. My big concern with the Gigabyte SOC, is stability (might be that the GPU run hot), its a crapshoot on whether you get a good one or not. there is only a 3-6 FPS difference in the two cards (Gigibyte the winner) @ 1920x1080. So if you get a good deal locally go for it, check their return policy and don't register the warranty of cut the upc off for rebate until you know its stable.
  4. All this is Free Shipping

    This board allows you to add another 8GB of that RAM if you so choose.

    http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=10370AC4832&vpn=BP-550%20Plus&manufacture=ANTEC $59.58
    Antec Basiq BP550 Plus 550W 24PIN ATX 12V Modular Power Supply Active PFC

    http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=12980BD8717&vpn=H67MA-E45%20(B3)&manufacture=MSI $97.00*
    MSI H67MA-E45 (B3) H67 mATX LGA1155 DDR3 PCI-E16 3PCI-E HDMI DVI Audio GBLAN SATA3 Motherboard

    http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115071 $294.99 FREE SHIPPING
    Intel Core i7-2600 Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor

    http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=15380BD7171&vpn=F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL&manufacture=G.SKILL $77.51
    G.SKILL F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL Ripjaws 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1333 CL9-9-9-24 240PIN Dimm Memory

    http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=12980BD8066&vpn=N560GTX-TI%20Twin%20Frozr%20II/OC&manufacture=MSI $222.18*
    MSI GeForce GTX 560 Ti Twin Frozr OC 880MHZ 1GB GDDR5 Dual DVI Mini-HDMI DX11 PCI-E Video Card
  5. In regards to your first question. I have the 212+ and I have RAM in the first slot. The RAM is Corsair XMS3, however it doesn't have a tall heatspreader like Ripjaws or Vengeance sticks do. The fan clears the stick by about 2mm. I had to move it up slightly for clearance. You really have to look to notice the difference. The previous generation G.Skill Snipers, some Kingston HyperX sticks, and some Mushkin Enhanced sticks come to mind that have low-profile heatspreaders. I believe the stock cooling will be adequate, but a smaller (than the 212+) low-profile cooling option would probably be quieter when your CPU is loaded.
  6. Why_Me said:
    All this is Free Shipping

    This board allows you to add another 8GB of that RAM if you so choose.

    http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=10370AC4832&vpn=BP-550%20Plus&manufacture=ANTEC $59.58
    Antec Basiq BP550 Plus 550W 24PIN ATX 12V Modular Power Supply Active PFC

    http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=12980BD8717&vpn=H67MA-E45%20(B3)&manufacture=MSI $97.00*
    MSI H67MA-E45 (B3) H67 mATX LGA1155 DDR3 PCI-E16 3PCI-E HDMI DVI Audio GBLAN SATA3 Motherboard

    http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115071 $294.99 FREE SHIPPING
    Intel Core i7-2600 Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor

    http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=15380BD7171&vpn=F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL&manufacture=G.SKILL $77.51
    G.SKILL F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL Ripjaws 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1333 CL9-9-9-24 240PIN Dimm Memory

    http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=12980BD8066&vpn=N560GTX-TI%20Twin%20Frozr%20II/OC&manufacture=MSI $222.18*
    MSI GeForce GTX 560 Ti Twin Frozr OC 880MHZ 1GB GDDR5 Dual DVI Mini-HDMI DX11 PCI-E Video Card



    The MB/CPU you are recommending is and H67/None "K", not very future proof. though he is not OCing right now in the future he might want to (ASUS auto tune does it for you, its easy) and it might buy extra time before he has to upgrade again in 2 or 3 years. the board he has already has 4 ram slots, he was asking if 8 GB was enough and if the Hyper 212 blocked the 1st ram slot (it does if the ram has tall heatspreaders). that PSU @550w won't be very future proof and the Ram you selected is only 1333 which is ok for a H67, but not a P67. he doesn't mind spending some money to future proof it. he has selected some quality components based on the P67MB and "K" series CPU.

    the deal on the GTX560 is a good buy
  7. MoBo - For $20 I'd upgrade to the WS Revolution and its twin x16 x16 lanes.
    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/p67-gaming-3-way-sli-three-card-crossfire,2910.html
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131714

    RAM - If ya gonna spring for CAS 8's, consider CAS 7's
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226178

    http://www.anandtech.com/show/2792/12

    22.3 % (SLI) increase in minimum frame rated w/ C6 instead of C8 in Far Cry 2
    18% (single card) / 5% (SLI) increase in minimum frame rated w/ C6 instead of C8 in Sawn of war
    15% (single card) / 5% (SLI) increase in minimum frame rated w/ C6 instead of C8 in World in Conflict

    PSU - XFX Black Edition gets higher performance rating from jonnyguru than AX750 and is $40 cheaper to boot
    http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=184
    http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=165
    http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=197
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207003

    SSD - Vertex 3 is 50 % faster the C300 .... watch newegg in evenings, thats' when they seem to get posted ... grabbed mine at 12;30 am
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227706

    Cooler - If you are building a $1,000 box, I'd put the Hyper 212 in to meet budget constraints. The Scythe Mugen 2 tops it by 7C in BMR testing and is just $10 more.
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185142

    TIM - Read the bottom of AS5's home page .... 200 hour curing time should be of concern. That's NOT 200 hours after install, that's 200 hours of ramping up and ramping down along the heat curve ..... time cold don't count .... time from reaching peak heat till turning off machine, don't count. Shin Etsu has identical cooling properties once fully cured as AS5 but no curing issues.

    http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=138&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=5

    Quote:
    So by my estimation of this statement it would take almost a year of normal use to properly cure the AC5 compound, or almost nine days of continuous power cycles to meet their recommendation.


    Whether you take this as gospel or not, the fact remains that even you accept 200 hours since ya turn the machine on that's 25 full days sitting at the machine 8 hours per day before ya can expect to obtain any accurate temperature data dialing in your overclocks. Here's the top 5 in an 80 way TIM test:

    http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=12

    Quote:
    Tuniq TX-3 (0) Aluminum Oxide Moderate 37.65°C A+
    Gelid GC-Extreme (0) Aluminum Oxide Low / Thin 37.65°C A+
    Thermaltake Grease A2150 (4) Polysynthetic Silver Low / Thin 37.65°C A+
    Arctic Silver 5 Polysynthetic Thermal Compound (4) Polysynthetic Silver Low / Thin 37.55°C A+
    Shin-Etsu MicroSi G751 (0) Aluminum Oxide Moderate 37.55°C A+


    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150080

    I'm using the Shin Etsu with these temps at a 4.6 Ghz OC (Voltage Offset Method)

    Max Core Temps under P95 (idle - load) 4.6004
    Core 1 31 - 62
    Core 2 31 - 66
    Core 3 31 - 68
    Core 4 31 - 65
    Core Voltage (Idle) 1.040-1.048
    Core Voltage (Under Load) 1.360 - 1.368

    Personally, I favor a larger case ... the HAF-922 was one of my favorites but it's way overdue for an upgrade (i.e. no front USB 3 port. If ya not gonna go for a HAF-X or DF-85, I'd strongly suggest the Antec 902 V3.

    As to your questions ......

    1 & 2. Most 3rd party cover at least the 1st RAM slot but most times it goes unused. Some coolers (i.e. Prolimatech Genesis) cover (and cool) all of them. It may make it hard or impossible for you to easily remove the RAM modules once in place, but it will not normally interfere with RAM installed in its slots unless you get RAM with those tall fin things on top which do absolutely nothing for you but they do look cool in the packaging. :)

    3. Photoshop and video editing enthusiasts benefit from 16GB of RAM .... some go with 1366 / 24GB systems for that reason. But for Gaming and general office stuff, 8GB is ideal.

    4. Hooey .... aka "stuff manufactured by the marketing department".

    http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/39184-p67-sandy-bridge-overclocking-guide-beginners.html

    Quote:
    Sandy Bridge does not demand only 1.5v modules, it will be perfectly happy with 1.65v modules too. If someone tries to tell you that you must have 1.5v modules, then they are either trying to sell them to you, or they have been reading misinformation, or both! Another point to consider here, is that in your BIOS, if you head to the memory voltage setting, and enter 1.5v, the text will remain white/grey, if you enter 1.65v, it will turn yellow, and it isn't until 1.73v that it turns red, so at the moment, I'd rest assured that 1.65v modules are OK to use, and I have had this confirmed by Asus, Gigabyte and Corsair so far, as soon as I hear from anyone else, I will update this again.


    5. The 900 MHz version is $215 ... you can OC it to 1000MHz as everyone seems to be able to do.
    http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/nvidia_asus_gtx560ti/4.htm

    6. Suggestions above

    7. HDMI if sending sound to monitor, DVI if not

    8. Case Manual, MoBo manual and Mobo installation guide contain all ya need to kno.
  8. jerreddredd said:
    The MB/CPU you are recommending is and H67/None "K", not very future proof. though he is not OCing right now in the future he might want to (ASUS auto tune does it for you, its easy) and it might buy extra time before he has to upgrade again in 2 or 3 years. the board he has already has 4 ram slots, he was asking if 8 GB was enough and if the Hyper 212 blocked the 1st ram slot (it does if the ram has tall heatspreaders). that PSU @550w won't be very future proof and the Ram you selected is only 1333 which is ok for a H67, but not a P67. he doesn't mind spending some money to future proof it. he has selected some quality components based on the P67MB and "K" series CPU.

    the deal on the GTX560 is a good buy

    Maybe I was on the wrong thread and didn't read what this OP posted. Here why don't you help me out seeing how my English is so so at best. It's the words down below that are in the bold underlined print that I need help with. So hopefully you can explain what the OP meant with those English words/sentences. :ange:

    zona said:
    Hi everyone, first time builder.

    I’ve spent many hours reading and researching to come up with the components below. Could use your advice about compatibility of the components and upgrade/change recommendations.

    Approximate Purchase Date: Within a month

    System Usage from Most to Least Important: I use the computer for everyday tasks, MS office applications, internet, etc. I also use it for Photoshop and video editing and the occasional game but I just don’t have the time to be a heavy gamer.

    Parts Not Required: I have a WD Caviar Blue 1TB that I can use for my non-boot HDD, Operating System, Mouse, scanner and printer. Everything else I have should be thrown out.

    Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Canadacomputers.com and newegg.com for research

    Country of Origin: Canada

    Overclocking: I don’t overclock, mainly because I don’t know how, don’t think I need to for my purposes. Also don’t have the time to figure it out.

    SLI or Crossfire: No

    Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
  9. Quote:
    BOOT DRIVE = Crucial 128GB RealSSD C300 1.8" SATA 3 Solid State Drive

    this SSD is not a good performer. you would be better off (in my opinion) with a SandForce based SSD. you will save about $30 too:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231415
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233160
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233125
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226152

    Apples and Oranges .... The vertex 3, Intel 510 and C300 are SATA III drives ..... none of those SATA II drives listed above can approach the speeds of the AATA 3 drives.

    Vertex 3 - up to 550 MB/s (SATA 6Gb/s)
    Intel 510 - Up to 450 MB/s (SATA 6Gb/s)
    C300 - 355MB/sec (SATA 6Gb/s)

    Mushkin - up to 285MB/s (SATA 3Gb/s)
    Sniper - up to 285MB/s (SATA 3Gb/s)
    Corsair CSSD-F120GB2-BRKT - up to 285MB/s
    Corsair - CSSD-F115GB2-BRKT-A up to 280MB/s (SATA 3Gb/s)


    Quote:
    VIDEO CARD = Gigabyte Super Overclock Series GV-N560SO-1GI GeForce GTX 560 Ti Video Card - 1GB, GDDR5, PCI-Express 2.0 (x16), Dual DVI, HDMI, DirectX 11, SLI Ready

    this will be a quieter card and is better rated.
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127565&cm_re=gtx_560_ti-_-14-127-565-_-Product

    Five OC'd 560's (including the Giga and the Frozr) are tested and compared here:

    http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-560-ti-roundup-asus-engtx560-graphics-card-overclocking,2858-21.html
  10. jerreddredd said:
    It looks like a wash, the MSI is 4 dba quieter unless at a full load then its 2 dba more noisy, but it runs 10-20C cooler also. My big concern with the Gigabyte SOC, is stability (might be that the GPU run hot), its a crapshoot on whether you get a good one or not. there is only a 3-6 FPS difference in the two cards (Gigibyte the winner) @ 1920x1080. So if you get a good deal locally go for it, check their return policy and don't register the warranty of cut the upc off for rebate until you know its stable.


    I agreed w/ the THG article and gave the nod to the Asus model. This reviewer took the Asus model and cranked it up over 1000 MHz as have many others.

    http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/nvidia_asus_gtx560ti/4.htm

    However, with the Gigabyte 900MHz model at just $220, that changes everything.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125363
  11. For the OP, here's the BIOS settings (Most are default - Bolded items are ones I set manually as best as I can recall) on WS Revolution for a guaranteed 4.4 GHz overclock:

    AI TWEAKER
    AI Overclock Tuner: Manual
    BCLK/PEG Frequency: 100
    Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
    By All Cores: 44
    Internal PLL: Auto
    Memory Frequency: DDR3-1600
    EPU Power Saving: Disabled

    OC Tuner Cancel Out - This will auto tune your system (Don't Use)
    DRAM Timing Control (The 4 settings below are for the CAS 7 Mushkin RAM I recommended, type in what it says on ya RAM box)
    DRAM CAS Latency 7
    DRAM RAD to CAS Delay 9
    DRAM RAS PRE Time 8
    DRAM RAS ACT Time 24
    All Else Auto

    CPU Power Management
    CPU Ratio Auto
    Enhanced Speed Step Tech Enabled
    Turbo Mode Enabled
    Long Duration Power Limit Auto
    Long Duration Maintained Auto
    Short Duration Power Limit Auto
    Additional Turbo Voltage Auto
    Primary Plane Current Limit Auto

    Load Line Calibration: Auto
    VRM Frequency: Auto
    VRM Fixed Frequency Mode NA
    VRM Spread Spectrum: Disabled
    Phase Control: Standard
    Duty Control: T-Probe
    CPU Current Capability 100%
    CPU Voltage: Offset (1.176)
    Offset Mode Sign: +
    CPU Offset Voltage: Auto
    DRAM Volatge Auto (1.65)
    VCCSA Voltage: Auto (0.925)
    VCCIO Voltage: 1.15 (keeps voltage within 0.50 of DRAM, probably unnecessary on SB)
    CPU PLL Voltage: Auto (1.796)
    PCH Voltage: Auto (1.062)
    DRAM Data Reference Voltage (CHA A) Auto
    DRAM CTRL Reference Voltage (CHA A) Auto
    DRAM Data Reference Voltage (CHA B) Auto
    DRAM CTRL Reference Voltage (CHA B) Auto
    CPU Spread Spectrum Auto

    ADVANCED
    CPU Ratio Auto
    Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitoring: Enabled
    Hyper Threading Enabled
    Active Processor Cores All
    Limit CPUID Maximum Disabled
    Execute Disable Bit Enabled
    Intel Virtualization Technology Disabled
    Enhanced Intel Speed Step Tech Enabled
    Turbo Mode Enabled
    CPU C1E Auto
    CPU C3 Report Auto
    CPU C6 Report Auto

    The following are the operating temps with Thermalright Silver Arrow

    Max Core Temps under P95 (idle - load) 4.4001
    Core 1 29 - 56
    Core 2 30 - 60
    Core 3 22 - 60
    Core 4 29 - 57
    Core Volatge (Idle) 1.040-1.048
    Core Voltage (Under Load) 1.280 - 1.288


    4.6 is easily doable but, at least on my CPU, requires LLC, ..... I am currently trying to tweak the 4.8 GHz OC settings which I don't like as temps are > 72C
  12. JackNaylorPE, thanks for taking the time for the write up.

    Quote:
    MoBo - For $20 I'd upgrade to the WS Revolution and its twin x16 x16 lanes.

    I think I will get more use out of the 3.5 inch front USB 3.0 bay bundled with the Deluxe than I would with the possibility of twin x16 x16 lanes

    Quote:
    RAM - If ya gonna spring for CAS 8's, consider CAS 7's

    I’m trying to stay away from the 1.65 volts. I’m sure it’s fine but I just don’t see the need to risk it. The RAM I selected seems to be a common choice for this mobo from what I read.

    Quote:
    PSU - XFX Black Edition gets higher performance rating from jonnyguru than AX750 and is $40 cheaper to boot

    I will try to track down this PSU locally, sounds like a good option.

    Quote:
    SSD - Vertex 3 is 50 % faster the C300 .... watch newegg in evenings, thats' when they seem to get posted ... grabbed mine at 12;30 am

    I’m sold but have to find a retailer in Canada where I can get it. Looks like supply is an issue and I’m sure Canada isn’t on the top of the list right now so new supply probably goes to Newegg.com before it gets to Newegg.ca. Canada computers does not carry it. :(

    Quote:
    Cooler - If you are building a $1,000 box, I'd put the Hyper 212 in to meet budget constraints. The Scythe Mugen 2 tops it by 7C in BMR testing and is just $10 more.

    The Mugen doesn’t fit the P8P67 Deluxe
    Here's a sample of a few posts:
    Quote:
    Cons: Took it out of the box and only after trying to put it on the motherboard did i realize that there is a screw that protrudes out of the back of the motherboard that does not all the back plate to sit snuggly on the motherboard.

    The motherboard that I have is the Asus Deluxe P67, so you should check to make sure that your motherboard is compatible. It said it is compatible with sandy bridge chips, but not necessary all of the motherboards.


    Any other cooler thoughts for the P8P67 Deluxe?

    Finally, after further review, the Gigabyte 560 Ti got more negative reviews about dead cards than did Asus or the MSI cards. I think I’m now leaning towards the MSI card.
  13. Why_Me, I did say that I'm not looking for OC capabilities. However, I want to future proof as much as I can and it seems to me that an OC capable system gives me more leeway.
    Quote:
    http://www.directcanada.com/produc [...] acture=MSI $222.18*
    MSI GeForce GTX 560 Ti Twin Frozr OC 880MHZ 1GB GDDR5 Dual DVI Mini-HDMI DX11 PCI-E Video Card

    The MSI card looks like a great deal, thanks!
  14. nd_hunter, thanks for your reply.

    Quote:
    In regards to your first question. I have the 212+ and I have RAM in the first slot. The RAM is Corsair XMS3, however it doesn't have a tall heatspreader like Ripjaws or Vengeance sticks do. The fan clears the stick by about 2mm. I had to move it up slightly for clearance.

    It seems that all the current generation RAMs (at least the ones Ive been looking at) have the heatspreaders. If you ony cleared by 2mm after you moved it up, looks like I'll have no room. :(

    I read somewhere (don't remember where) that someone installed the heatsink backwards somehow (the cooper pipes away from or maybe towards the back of the mobo?) to allow access to the DIMM. Based on your experience, do you think that's an option? I'm currently only looking at 8GB so I should be fine as I don't need all 4 DIMMs, however, I'm paying for them and would like to know I could use them in the future. Or maybe by that point there will be a good heatsink designed to work with these mobos.

    Quote:
    I believe the stock cooling will be adequate

    That's interesting. So you think i may not need to buy a heatsink at all?
  15. zona said:
    Why_Me, I did say that I'm not looking for OC capabilities. However, I want to future proof as much as I can and it seems to me that an OC capable system gives me more leeway.
    Quote:
    http://www.directcanada.com/produc [...] acture=MSI $222.18*
    MSI GeForce GTX 560 Ti Twin Frozr OC 880MHZ 1GB GDDR5 Dual DVI Mini-HDMI DX11 PCI-E Video Card

    The MSI card looks like a great deal, thanks!

    +1 for sticking with low voltage (1.5v or less) RAM. It's what the board manufactures recommend for these 1155 mobo's.

    Now if your looking for a P67 single card board, this one down below is about as good as it gets imo.

    http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_722&item_id=037679 $ 124.99
    ASRock P67 PRO 3 (B3)Socket 1155 Intel P67 Chipset Dual-Channel DDR3 2133(OC)/1866(OC)/1600/1333/1066Mhz 7.1 CH HD Audio Gigabit LAN 2x SATAIII 6.0 Gb/s 4xSATAII 3.0Gb/s 2x USB 3.0 6x USB 2.0 ATX

    http://www.asrock.com/news/events/201102ex/warranty.html <----- ASRock two year warranty

    http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=P67%20Pro3 <---- more info, specs, and pics on that board

    http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=15380BD5211&vpn=F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL&manufacture=G.SKILL $87.07
    G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 Memory
  16. Why_Me said:
    Maybe I was on the wrong thread and didn't read what this OP posted. Here why don't you help me out seeing how my English is so so at best. It's the words down below that are in the bold underlined print that I need help with. So hopefully you can explain what the OP meant with those English words/sentences. :ange:


    I didn't mean to insight a war. I know what he said, I was keying in on the Future Proof aspect and he was ok about spending extra money. I guess just as you keyed in on the no OC/SLi aspect of his post. . yes, your build would save him some $ and I also would recommend that path for someone one a limited budget.

    It's all good I hope?
  17. Quote:
    BOOT DRIVE = Crucial 128GB RealSSD C300 1.8" SATA 3 Solid State Drive

    this SSD is not a good performer. you would be better off (in my opinion) with a SandForce based SSD. you will save about $30 too:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231415
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233160
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233125
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226152

    Apples and Oranges .... The vertex 3, Intel 510 and C300 are SATA III drives ..... none of those SATA II drives listed above can approach the speeds of the AATA 3 drives.

    Vertex 3 - up to 550 MB/s (SATA 6Gb/s)
    Intel 510 - Up to 450 MB/s (SATA 6Gb/s)
    C300 - 355MB/sec (SATA 6Gb/s)

    Mushkin - up to 285MB/s (SATA 3Gb/s)
    Sniper - up to 285MB/s (SATA 3Gb/s)
    Corsair CSSD-F120GB2-BRKT - up to 285MB/s
    Corsair - CSSD-F115GB2-BRKT-A up to 280MB/s (SATA 3Gb/s)



    I agree on the Vertex3 Buy advice if you have $$ and can find one. They are just very scarce right now and you'll pay premium for them. make sure its the SATA 6GB you get, they are making 3GB models also.
  18. Best answer
    zona said:
    nd_hunter, thanks for your reply.

    It seems that all the current generation RAMs (at least the ones Ive been looking at) have the heatspreaders. If you ony cleared by 2mm after you moved it up, looks like I'll have no room. :(


    First, you're welcome.

    Second, here are a few options through newegg.ca and ncix.ca.

    This Patriot memory will fit. It is DDR3 1600 1.5v.

    Here is the Corsair RAM that I have on my ASUS P8P67. It is 1.65v but works fine. Currently on back order at NCIX.

    This Kingston set is in stock at NCIX. It is 1.65v DDR3 1600.

    1.5v is probably ideal. 1.65v will work just fine with no performance or reliability issues.

    zona said:
    I read somewhere (don't remember where) that someone installed the heatsink backwards somehow (the cooper pipes away from or maybe towards the back of the mobo?) to allow access to the DIMM. Based on your experience, do you think that's an option? I'm currently only looking at 8GB so I should be fine as I don't need all 4 DIMMs, however, I'm paying for them and would like to know I could use them in the future. Or maybe by that point there will be a good heatsink designed to work with these mobos.


    Let me clarify a little bit about my experience with the Hyper 212+. I have it orientated to push air from the front of the case through the heatsink to get exhausted through the rear of the case. You could call this parallel to the board. You mount the heatsink with the fan off and snap it on when finished. I think the fan might have barely touched the top of my RAM stick in slot 1. So when I put the fan on, I just made sure there was some clearance. Anyone looking inside my case wouldn't notice that the top of the fan isn't perfectly lined up with the top of the heatsink (unless they were looking for it). I mounted it this way so I don't have to pull the heatsink off to replace or add RAM (I plan to add 8GB in a month or two when racing starts to aid in video editing). I will try to figure out how to post a picture here after work if you would like. I could have mounted it perpendicular to exhaust through the top of the case (I have an exhaust fan there too), like a chimney effect. I am pretty sure the copper pipes would have cleared the RAM in slot 1.

    zona said:
    Quote:
    I believe the stock cooling will be adequate

    That's interesting. So you think i may not need to buy a heatsink at all?


    If you aren't planning to overclock, you don't need to. That 690 II has good airflow and plenty of options for additional fans, and SB processors run cooler than previous-generation chips. If you buy a non -k CPU, I would recommend against buying an aftermarket cooler.

    However, I would recommend an unlocked processor as overclocking is pretty dang easy with a decent board and this will extend the useful lifespan of your rig.
  19. nd_hunter, a picture would be awesome!

    Quote:
    I could have mounted it perpendicular to exhaust through the top of the case (I have an exhaust fan there too), like a chimney effect. I am pretty sure the copper pipes would have cleared the RAM in slot 1.


    What was the reason not to mount perpendicular? Would it have prevented you removing the RAM without taking the heatsink off?

    I'm not as concerned about that issue as I rarely remove my RAM, if anything, I'll add more into the two empty slots in the future.
  20. Quote:
    What was the reason not to mount perpendicular? Would it have prevented you removing the RAM without taking the heatsink off?


    Yes

    Quote:
    I'm not as concerned about that issue as I rarely remove my RAM, if anything, I'll add more into the two empty slots in the future.


    I'm pretty sure I would have had to remove the heatsink to access slot 2 and maybe even 3. Pictures do not do this thing justice. It is big.

    PM me with your email address. I just think that will be easier for pics.
  21. nd_hunter, one more thing.

    Was the thermal paste that comes with the heatsink adequate or would you recomend buying a good one instead?
  22. I bought and applied Shin Etsu, but the stuff that came with will be good enough
  23. OK, I bought everything except for the SSD, still trying to source that.

    Any advice on drivers? I plan to install all the motherboard drivers (P8P67 Deluxe - which I understand i should get off the website not the included disc) and I'm guessing I need to do the same with the video card (ASUS GTX560 Ti Direct CU II)?

    Anything else need driver installation?

    Do I need something for my SSD when I finally get one (OCZ Vertex 3 VTX3-25SAT3-120G ) or does the mobo driver installation take care of that?

    What about my BIOS, do I just go with what's already on the mobo or do I install the latest version?

    Thanks in advance.
  24. Best answer selected by zona.
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