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Power supply and motherboard issue

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July 15, 2011 8:03:48 AM

So I got a new build and stuck my old PSU with my new kit. Here's what Im running:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Now here's what puzzles me. It was all plugged in and set to go. I hit the power switch and everything kind of flashes like it's going to boot up (LED lights and all). Then I hear a small pop and it all goes dead. I fiddle with the wires a bit check everything and again same results. So I tested my friends 650W PSU, that has all 20pin slots with cables and scokets, and the computer turns on! Full power everything running.
Later I examined the cables and my 850W PSU was missing one black wire on the main 20Pin plug (Came this way). Later found the motherboard to be DOA. Either cause of the pop or what idk. Newegg is replacing.

NOW!
I traded PSUs with my friend. The 850W works great for them. It's fine. 650W works in my old build and started up the DOA board+everything else.
The question is, should I be concered with getting my replacment and going back to my 850W PSU? If I do plan to get a new PSU with 800W+ what should I get to ensure it will have all full 20 pins and work just like the 650W.
a b ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 8:41:12 AM

welcome to the forums newcomer!

that antec psu is really old to go into that system of yours...the pop sound would mean that the PSU's capacitor popped.

Why did you get a DOA board? thas the first thing that comes to mind when getting a device. I can't say for sure that the board didn't take out anything else in the process...it'll be a matter of time until your going to experience glitches - something to think about when you look back at the PSU/mobo failing.

what dya mean by full 20 pin? mobo's even the ones you linked have 24 pin connectors for the mobo power and a 4/8 pin atx 1.9~2.0 connection.
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July 15, 2011 9:08:22 AM

Well one idea was that it was just old. I didnt get a DOA, only after I actually got my friends PSU in did I find it was DOA. Oh well cant win em all. I just said 20 pin to be simple. Dont need to get the other 8 pin and the extra 4 invovled when they are not the issue here. I made an observation of having 19 cables going into the 850W PSU and 20 going into the 650W PSU 20 pin connector. Which led me to believing that was the issue. Since it was a black cable missing me thinking it was a ground wire which caused the short.
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a b ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 9:16:04 AM

fine - I'll just address the last question - get an NZXT Hale90 850W PSU - its modular and is 80+ gold rated.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

can't go wrong with them. I would've advised a few other brands but seeing how good this unit really is and the looks of it. I can't help but recommend it :) 

See if you can sell the antec off. Wouldn't want a faulty PSU taking out $500~$1000 rig..:/ IMO
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July 15, 2011 9:27:40 AM

Ye fair point. I was thinking of trying to sell it off. So to confirm, my PSU is just...old? Too old to support new tech? If that's the case I will chalk that up for future builds to keep in mind. Unless there are any specifics that I'm overlooking.
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a b ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 9:51:26 AM

PSU's are made mostly of capacitors. When a PSU is subjected to long hours of usage and under hot/humid or even dry conditions, the psu's capacitors take damage - relax its called aging and they produce leaks or cause swelling of the capacitors. They later become less efficient and they have lower output.

if it were a quality psu, they'll die silently. But if it were an el-cheapo psu - they go out with a bang!
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July 15, 2011 10:01:29 AM

I would definatly go with a 800 PSU or more. Try Zalman's 850 dual heat pipe multi raid PSU i have it and love it. Has a load of differnt cable options so you dont load your case full of unused cables.
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July 15, 2011 10:14:21 AM

Gotcha, so it's just showing its age. Best get a new one before it blows out on my friend. Been a couple years, guess I should be lucky it didnt go KABOOM on me. Suppose that shows it's good or I'm just lucky.
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a b ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 10:20:09 AM

well my chinese PSU on my P4 rig went kaboom infront of me with my friends as my witnesses - they claimed they were innocent and they saw nothing :lol: 

i lost $1000 worth of hardware in the process - thas when i learnt of getting a branded, quality PSU to power ANY rig. FYI you can read the Power supply guide link in my signature that should give you a better idea/knowledge of PSU's
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July 15, 2011 10:57:00 AM

Cheers! Will do. I was thinking maybe 750W. Since I only have the 1 graphics card. Dont know if it's worth going SLI yet with this graphics card. Im new to the company but for the price and ratings it had it was worth a go. CORSAIR, Antec, and SSeasonic seem fair. What should I avoid other than Diablotech.

Final note, how long you think how much life my Antec has left in it? Had it about 3 years almost. Dont want my friend to suffer from this ><
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a b ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 11:07:35 AM

If the list to avoid is introduced - we'll come up with names you've never heard of, or will hear in the future. But we can tell you what to stick to;

Antec
Corsair GX, CX
Seasonic
XFX's range from 550W above
NZXT hale 90 (and yes you can find them in ranges from 550W all the way to1000W PSU's - mind you the 550 W is the only one in the range thas not modular)
Thermaltake - i've used the TR2 420W, Toughpower 600W and now using toughpower grand 750W.

have also used the xfx 450W and its quite sturdy.

to answer the latest ques - pick up a kill-a-watt meter and hook it to your psu - it'll show you how much the psu is pulling and consuming.

and if your sticking to 750W then here you go bro
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July 15, 2011 11:12:34 AM

I did some calculations, with 1 Graphics card I would need 450W. With two I would need like 650W. I'll search Antec first, since it proved its 3 years worth. Still I guess my old one is toast now? So I shouldnt even bother trying to sell it huh?
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a b ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 11:16:45 AM

well keeping it will be of no use to you either - so go figure bro :)  maybe kick it around for soccer practice :p 

how about this go here and punch in the numbers - see how much power YOU REALLY NEED while this is more precise but not entirely prcise :) 
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a c 243 ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 11:25:46 AM

Tjaden said:
Well one idea was that it was just old. I didnt get a DOA, only after I actually got my friends PSU in did I find it was DOA. Oh well cant win em all. I just said 20 pin to be simple. Dont need to get the other 8 pin and the extra 4 invovled when they are not the issue here. I made an observation of having 19 cables going into the 850W PSU and 20 going into the 650W PSU 20 pin connector. Which led me to believing that was the issue. Since it was a black cable missing me thinking it was a ground wire which caused the short.

A cable missing is fine, the -5v rail had been optional for many years ( gone from the ATX spec now ) and the SG 850 doesn't have one.
Should be a white cable though. If that isn't the case you should be talking with Antec support.
You've got one of the best psu's ever manufactured and at 850 watts it would take an awful lot of abuse to make it " show it's age "
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July 15, 2011 11:41:47 AM

Suppose I could check on what the warranty says. Forgot to think about it. Good reminder! Well the long calculator took me to almost 700W with everything I would put in my PC, IE 2 graphics cards 2 HDDs, More PCIs than I would use, etc just to make sure.

Note* I looked it up, it has a 5 year warranty! So I guess I just need to explain to them what's going on. Any other suggestions for this battle? I know people dont give in easy on their warranties. Plus technically it still "works". Worked for my friend last night so I guess my argument would be it cant support the higher workload Im requesting from it?
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a b ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 11:44:39 AM

:)  better to be prepared then worried.
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July 15, 2011 12:57:31 PM

True but I am concerned of one small thing. When I was doing diagnostics on trying to see what was wrong with the computer when I was booting it I removed everything but the Mobo, CPU, and RAM. I still got the same results. So if my power demand is about 300W and my friends is running at least 450W. How did the PSU work for them but not for me even when my power demand was about 1/3 less?

I only bring this up cause if they do replace it, I dont want to go through all this again and have it be because there is a wire missing on the 20pin slot. As mentioned before it could be a -5v. I dont know alot on PSUs, my only guess was a ground wire because if anything ground wires come and go from my experience. One computer has it the other doesnt. Any feedback on my concerns?
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a b ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 1:17:52 PM

sell existing psu and buy a new one - well provided you don't buy a pseudo "new" psu from ebay off of a shady/dodgy buyer. :p 
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July 15, 2011 1:29:00 PM

Suppose I could do that. I just feel like I dont want to dish a bunch of money out again for a new PSU...maybe I could get one from warranty, buy a new one, sell the one I get off warranty. Fair deal?
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a b ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 1:36:03 PM

your choice to go the long route via the coast of Columbia to reach Washington :D  from new york - i know that sounded like a bad joke :p 
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July 15, 2011 1:39:29 PM

Aye but Im a cheapskate. Cant help it. Alright I think that's a safe bet. Get some money out of it. Get a new PSU that's newer. I suppose the other alternative would be if Antec didnt have mine in stock anymore and offered me a newer one. Sometimes they do that.
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a b ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 1:41:59 PM

:/  sometimes - but if that psu took everything out - the support team would pay for everything inside your case :D  but yeah that sounds a better option to sell existing psu and pick up a fresh one
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July 15, 2011 1:47:18 PM

Lol not bad. Ok so I'll find another and go from there. Thanks for racking my brain to figure this out ^^ Probably saved me about 100$ minus one square soccer ball. But in the end the sell warranty one and buy brand new one is the safest and most cost efficient option!

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a b ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 1:51:52 PM

trust me i'd first find a use for a bad psu and then see if it can be played :)  literally

I got off my hands a Thermaltake Toughpower 600W PSU cos it was with me for a while. I sold it off @ a decent price and i know my pal wouldn't push the unit like i did with OC'ing. So i got some cash - added it to my wallet and picked up a Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 750W psu. I reckon he can still use it to OC his H67 chipset mobo. But yet be able to keep my pal solidly content for some time to come :D 
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a c 243 ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 2:17:14 PM

Tjaden said:
Aye but Im a cheapskate.
Along with being one of the best psu's made it was one of the most expensive, hard to imagine a " cheapskate " buying one to begin with.
Tjaden said:
As mentioned before it could be a -5v. I dont know alot on PSUs,
Match your connector up with this
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors....
Is the missing pin in the same place ? It's the -5v.

Tjaden said:
But in the end the sell warranty one and buy brand new one is the safest and most cost efficient option!

Tjaden said:

I traded PSUs with my friend. The 850W works great for them. It's fine.


Might put a couple of dollars into your pocket, of course if there's nothing wrong with the psu you'll get the same one back, hard to imagine it's a bad psu when it works with your buddies system.

Your motherboard link brings up a page of Asus boards, does the model you have/had include the Anti-surge protection ?
It doesn't get along with some powersupplies and is fixed by turning the feature off in the bios.

The whole idea of " buy a new power supply " when you don't know the cause of the issue is rather silly.
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a b ) Power supply
July 15, 2011 2:41:28 PM

you did mention a small pop right? maybe one of your connections were loose and that stray/half connected plug might caused a spark to jump - when you had the 800W PSU connected. when you brought your friends psu over and connected everything - you got no such pop sound as the connections were made properly this time.

Even though delluser1 has made a case in point, I went through the same problem - rather than tackle warranty - i went ahead and got a new psu. when warranty came back with the psu - i sold it off to a friends friend.
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July 22, 2011 2:26:22 AM

It is the -5v that is missing. It maybe rather silly to buy a new PSU, but the results pointed to the PSU and what are returns for anyway? Bottem line, I dont want to have to do another RMA and wait another week to play this game. I want to do things right. The Antec I can get the warranty on and flip it. OK money back there.

Trust me, at one point those connections had to be in all the way, cause I unplugged and plugged everything in over and over and over trying different combinations, places, plugs, hardware, etc. Even when I had just the motherboard and CPU in it still popped. No graphics, no ram, just motherboard, CPU, powers switch, and I still got a pop. Yet when I plugged in the 650W it would boot to a blank screen and stay on at least. Between the whole combination, the only time I got ANYWHERE but a pop was when I used a different PSU. So if every combination I get the same results except for the difference in PSU, logic dictates a problem with the PSU. Hence why I pointed to the -5v. That was the only difference between the PSUs that I could visually see and understand why I would have an issue.

The motherboard has the ability to detect when something is wrong with it even before the BIOS kicks in. There are LEDs on the motherboard that turn red when something either CPU, RAM, Graphics, etc is out of order. Every issue has it's on LED. None were active through any of my combination of experiments. As I said, only time I got different results was with a new PSU.

Delluser1, I bought that Antec long long ago. Back on when it was someone else paying for it. Today I am my own person.

I went with PC power and cooling PSU. It had good ratings, simple, recommended, good price, 7 year warranty. So for now that's what I chose. I'll go from there.

here's th Motherboard: ASUS M5A97 EVO http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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a b ) Power supply
July 22, 2011 2:49:20 PM

^ so your settling with a pc power and cooling?

not interested in the brands i named :)  ?
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July 29, 2011 2:46:13 AM

Update: So AMD ran a test with the CPU. Not sure what they found but they are going to replace it. Not sure why I got different results with different PSUs then...

Well PPC was a rebrand for Seasonic and had a 7 year warranty. Plus the ratings were fantastic with a good price. I'll probably send it back if my old PSU starts my new unit. Haven't had any issues with the Antec since I tried putting it in my new system. Suppose we could say the Antec had a built in fail safe that protected the rest of the components so it prevented further damage? No idea, but once I get my CPU back I'll try and see what happens.
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