HELP replaced PSU, now PC turns on and off NO BEEP!

[welrod]

Hello,
I had a 580w PSU in my PC (q-c yorkfield 8300 cpu, msi p45 platinum mobo, 8gig ddr2, 500gb hdd, 1cdrom, 1 ati radeon 4870 512k gfx card) because since i bought i've been having restarts during high-load moments in games.. anyway i replaced it with a silverstone 1000w st-g, which should be a very good product.. never heard of one that was DOA, but it could happen.

so i turn it on when it's finally all hooked up and it turns on/off/on/off.. also it whines rather loudly when it turns on, but i've never heard the 135mm fan in this psu before so that didn't scare me.. but every 2 secs, on/off.. i unplugged it and now need to troubleshoot.

i have no idea how to troubleshoot!

some things i had to bump into a bit during installation (mind you, with a wrist strap) - 1. i had to remove 1 ram chip to unplug the 24-pin from the old psu.. looks seated properly back though and anyway no beep code so i don't suspect it's that 2. i had to press down a small bit on the video card for the same 24-pin, it always sagged a bit but now i think it's a bit more.. 3. i have a ccfl neon light and an inverter for it, w a bracket switch in the back of the case.. NEVER seen/used these before but i went ahead and wired them up.. they did appear to light though who knows if they could have been the problem? 4. the cords though modular are kind of everywhere in the case, didn't want to tie them down if i would have to go back in and do something and this IS my first time.. 5. though i've taken incredible precautions, the door has been off of the side of the case for 3 days.. 6. i don't know enough about JPWR, but it seems to require power from the PSU, and it seemed like it was used originally in the old fan setup with the old PSU.. so i set a similar thing up using a 6-pin-to-many molex nodes-cord on my PSU, I ran the molex from the inverter into 1 node, the front chassis light into 2nd node, the front chassis fan into the front chassis light's own Y end, and then the final molex on my 6-pin cord into the side window fan, which then fed into my back exhaust fan, and that back fan's own Y finally terminates by feeding into JPWR on the mobo.

The other thing, it didn't just turn on and off... rather, umprompted, it turned on 2 seconds, off 2 seconds, on 2 seconds, off, until i unplugged it (about there, ~6 secs)
I'm bloody well confused as to what I've done wrong, what to correct, where to start.. please help and i'll stop asking all my annoying questions, promise =)

4 days no pc - starting to exhibit withdrawal symptoms.. using (gulp) ink and paper for things.. =0

 

[rolli59]

Start by running through the guide step by step http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/261145-13-perform-steps-posting-boot-video-problems
If everything is correct I would reinstall the old PSU to see if the new one is possibly faulty!

 

[AdrianPerry]

As above id suggest trying your old PSU and see if it works. IF it does work then the only other thing i can suggest you check is the power switch (if it has one) and check your using the right voltage 115 or 230 (this switch is usually found on the back of the PSU where the kettle lead plugs in).

If you've tried all those steps and the old PSU DID work then it seems likely the new PSU is faulty.

 

[daship]

You need the 24 pin and the 4/8pin for the CPU, sounds like you may have forgot the CPU 4/8pin power. And or your other wiring sounds iffy?

 

[briansklein]

I would suggest as daship did in making sure your pins on your cords are matching your connection pins on your board. Make sure you have 4 to 4 8 to 8 and so on. Also try starting your comp with one stick of ram let it stay on for a min and then restart if you can get it to boot properly after putting the rest of your ram back in.

 

[jsc]

Remove everything that you do not need to boot (the CFL comes to mind).

Then connect the old PSU. If your system works, the new PSU is the problem. If the system still does not work, you have a real problem.

Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-posting-boot-problems
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.
The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboarding

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=youtube_gdata

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.