HP P6130F - Graphic Card & Power Supply inquiry

Switch the power supply for this one: 35$ AR
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] sair%20430

Now you have 165$ left.
Get this motherboard for 70$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6813131595

You now have 95$ left.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] -_-Product
100$ AR.

You'll get way more performance and the motherboard is upgraded as well since you know have a 16x 2.0 slot instead of a normal 16x slot.

It's really easy to replace the motherboard. Just youtube some guides "How to remove a motherboard" for that matter, no you wouldn't need extra cables and such. Technically your not building a PC, you're just upgrading one.

Honestly if your replacing a motherboard your pretty much building a computer. There is more to it but that is really the same thing. Not to mention he has an OEM computer there is no telling if they use standard standoffs for their board or even a standard board. There are few things you can plug into the wrong spot but there are a couple that can either destroy the board or the thing you plugged in wrong. Though the power supply is nice The psu should work fine but i would research your system a lot more to see if the motherboard is even replaceable with none OEM parts. Also i haven't a clue how old your OEM HP is but the psu might need an adapter before you can even plug it in. Then there are things like from ports top ports ect. might not even plug into normal standard plugs on the motherboard so you might lose all functionality of those USB firewire and headset ports. Make sure the PSU in your machine has no proprietary plugs for power or anything else. And it has a standard power connector for motherboard power None OEM PSU's might not have any extra special plugs assuming your computer even uses them.

Which ever country you shop in wouldn't really matter. They all use the same parts. The tricky thing about that computer is the case. HP does a real good job of keeping their cases un-upgradable.

PSU 40$
http://www.directcanada.com/produc [...] re=CORSAIR

MOBO 60$
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produ [...] 6813157226

Case 30$
http://www.directcanada.com/produc [...] OLERMASTER

GPU 75$
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Produ [...] 6814102871

Uhh yes wiring may be needed. What do you mean by that though. Like pluggin in cables in cables? If so yes.

Sorry for sounding dumb... I have never built/assemble a PC before. So I'm not sure what additional things I would need. I'm talking about the components to hook up the parts inside the PC. Initially I've only thought about replacing graphics card/power supply as it seems less complicated and lesser chances of me screwing up when I put it together.

I can't tell if my reply wasn't read or not, but basically what I told you is all you need. Now there will be a 4 pin connector that needs to go from the power supply to the video card. Again, I don't have step by step instructions on the power supply, but the card itself there are pictures in the service manual.

Yes, I read your message and I also so you edited it. I was checking out the graphics card you had mentioned. It says crossfire. I don't believe I came across that when I was looking at the computer specification. Is it required to have before the graphics card feature can be used? I actually have no clue what is a 4 pin connector. But I think replacing the power supply/graphics card is alot easier and straightforward than replacing than the motherboard. Then again, it might be but I just don't feel comfortable after someone said I can possibly destroy the board if I plugged it in incorrectly.

Cpatel, do you realize that OEM cases such as cases from HP do not use the same stand off placements as other manufacturers? That is where the new case comes in.

The new motherboard is because his motherboard doesn't have a PCI Express 16x 2.0, granted 16x is backwards compatible, however it's much slower and he wouldn't be getting all the perf he'd could be getting with that bandwidth restriction of 16x to 16x 2.0

Replacement for the PSU is needed not because the one from the HP unit does not have cables, but because it would supply enough power, OEM PSUs suck.

Sir, I'm fully aware of the x16 1.0 limitation, and to be honest its not that big of a deal, especially for what his application is. And yes, I clearly understand a PSU replacement is needed, I've done graphics card upgrades for many people, and hence why I reccomended one.

Am I missing a key piece of info here? We are assuming the computer is intact? Who cares where the standoffs are? I'm looking at an image of this actual computer's motherboard, including the placement of all the components, and I am again seeing no issues here. Thus, if it is in one piece, why do we need to recommend a new case AND a new motherboard? And quite frankly, 430W is the bare minimum for the card you reccomended, and could cause issues down the road.

I really don't like getting into arguments here. Sir the choice is yours at this point, and I don't want to confuse you any further than this debate between us has.

The difference is bandwidth communication. An analogy would be like USB 2.0 vs USB 1.1, only its not 8x of a bandwidth difference. Its twice as much. Hence why I didn't want to mention that because in my opinion, it doesn't matter for your application. The other poster believes otherwise. Again, the choice is yours, mine requires a lot less work, however, I will agree that the other poster's recommendation would allow for further future upgrades.

Basically you wouldn't take full advantage of the bandwidth capabilities of the card I reccomended. You can honestly go his route if you want (in terms of the GTS 450 he chose in his first reply), MINUS the motherboard and case upgrade and, in my opinion, his power supply recommendation. That would still work for the games your playing. You would have extra cash leftover.

If you are going to go that route though, put a 500W power supply to save money instead of the 600W one I paired with my card reccomendation: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod [...] 6817182044

Oh, and just to prove my claim that x16 2.0 vs 1.0 isn't relevant for the situation we are talking about: http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews [...] ng/4.html. They tested cards even more powerful then what we're recommending. Although they are still working off the 2.0 slot, again, the equivalent would be x8 anyway.

Dead link for me.

Also I defiantly think that PSU is not even fully up to the 500w it suggests. If you can a more solid high efficicent 430w from Corsair I'd take it. Plus they are actually good with their MIRS which would bring it down to 35$ cheaper than the rosewill.

Just a warning, I've heard many Rosewill units are faulty and have exploded within cases, frankly I payed more to be safe.

I also have a friendly forum member, ScrewySquirrel, He's running the i5 2400 with a 6850 on that 430w I recommended so I honestly don't see the problem. I've recommended to many a 430w and it's fine powering their system. Don't believe me eh?
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.p [...] 4&reid=214

Also I've tried to do the same upgrade Raplh is doing with his build for my HP before. And needless to say, a new MicroATX board did not even fit into the case. None of the standoffs even aligned. So we bought a new case, didn't fit our budget, we ended up going overboard. But meh.

So it's your choice really. If you find you can handle the bottleneck, you know it's your choice. You probably could to be honest, but I just find that if you can upgrade all in one budget. Why not just do it. You'll have the AM3 socket available to you when you want to the upgrade the CPU later.