ASRock H61M-VS LGA 1155 Intel H61 Micro ATX Bent pins
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Here are pics
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It may or may not be the cause of the other problem I'm having which is when I plug in one of my case fans, my hard drives, or my graphics card into the power supply the computer only starts for a couple seconds. I've tried two PSU's so I don't think its that. Finally took the CPU fan off and CPU out to check the pins and found that. Any ideas? I feel like some of them are kinda bending to the right, but I am not sure and then there's that small patch or even one pin that's bent the wrong way.
Edit: It looks like all of them are bent one way or the other is that bad?

It may or may not be the cause of the other problem I'm having which is when I plug in one of my case fans, my hard drives, or my graphics card into the power supply the computer only starts for a couple seconds. I've tried two PSU's so I don't think its that. Finally took the CPU fan off and CPU out to check the pins and found that. Any ideas? I feel like some of them are kinda bending to the right, but I am not sure and then there's that small patch or even one pin that's bent the wrong way.
Edit: It looks like all of them are bent one way or the other is that bad?
More about : asrock h61m lga 1155 intel h61 micro atx bent pins
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To be honest I'm not even sure if It was like that before I never checked (stupid me), but I did have a hard time pushing the cpu down with the latch, but it was positioned correctly and saw a video of a guy putting just as much pressure to shut his so I figured it was natural. Surgical gloves? dam I don't have those or slim q-tips :\
Edit: Note main post edit, it seems others are bent, but they are all bent together in the same way is that good or bad?
Edit: Note main post edit, it seems others are bent, but they are all bent together in the same way is that good or bad?
Bakuryu42 said:
To be honest I'm not even sure if It was like that before I never checked (stupid me), but I did have a hard time pushing the cpu down with the latch, but it was positioned correctly and saw a video of a guy putting just as much pressure to shut his so I figured it was natural. Surgical gloves? dam I don't have those or slim q-tips :\Edit: Note main post edit, it seems others are bent, but they are all bent together in the same way is that good or bad?
It just falls right in. No pushing is needed. It might have been damaged, before u got it.
Since u are saying u had to push it in. Where did u bought it?
All bent pins on the side, could be from you, when u tried to get it in and u have used some force because it didn't fit.
bought it from newegg so nothing shady there. I felt like it didn't feel right, but I remember my last computer I had to use some force. Also I remember from my last build about the notches and the arrow on the cpu for placement so I never placed it wrong I know that. Based on the pictures do you think they are all bent one way or another?
Intel i5 2400, guess ill contact them I might go at it tomorrow with a cheap magnifying glass a light and a knife.
new images http://imageshack.us/g/43/20120327180118851.jpg/
new images http://imageshack.us/g/43/20120327180118851.jpg/
Knife or anything fibrous - no! You need a Jeweler's Tweezers.
Photos - use the Macro setting for proper focusing and a separate light source than the flash (disable).
Q - How long ago did you get the H61 MOBO?
My opinion, bent CPU pins are a real stickler in RMA's. Therefore the quicker they're discovered the better the chances for an RMA to succeed. Unless you are really (really) careful you'll make things worse. The first thing I do is both photograph and inspect a MOBO for bent pins, and IF they're present no one questions an RMA the day or next day you receive the MOBO.
Example of a good LGA 1155 socket:
Photos - use the Macro setting for proper focusing and a separate light source than the flash (disable).
Q - How long ago did you get the H61 MOBO?
My opinion, bent CPU pins are a real stickler in RMA's. Therefore the quicker they're discovered the better the chances for an RMA to succeed. Unless you are really (really) careful you'll make things worse. The first thing I do is both photograph and inspect a MOBO for bent pins, and IF they're present no one questions an RMA the day or next day you receive the MOBO.
Example of a good LGA 1155 socket:
Well I only got my stuff a couple days ago, how expensive and where can I find jewels tweezers. I tried the macro setting it didn't help. That picture is nice, but without a closer option its hard to tell how they are position. I feel like I might have made it worse, but I really can't tell. I'm really frustrated I hope newegg helps me out because I know I put it in there right the notches have to match or it doesn't go in right?
I'm still wondering if it was just this the whole time instead of my PSU giving me trouble Id hate to replace this only to find the PSU wasnt working either.
I'm still wondering if it was just this the whole time instead of my PSU giving me trouble Id hate to replace this only to find the PSU wasnt working either.
Best solution
There's only (1) way to install the CPU, any other way it wouldn't latch.
TRUST ME, if you think the PSU is bad then RMA it!
I'd call NewEgg right now and tell them you were having problems and folks in TH Forum suggested you might have a bent CPU pin -- and wala you did. NewEgg offers Expedited RMA (aka Cross Ship) service and if you call them NOW you might get a replacement MOBO and PSU by tomorrow. "The catch" is they charge your credit card and refund it once the RMA is returned.
NewEgg is cool, so be nice!
TRUST ME, if you think the PSU is bad then RMA it!
I'd call NewEgg right now and tell them you were having problems and folks in TH Forum suggested you might have a bent CPU pin -- and wala you did. NewEgg offers Expedited RMA (aka Cross Ship) service and if you call them NOW you might get a replacement MOBO and PSU by tomorrow. "The catch" is they charge your credit card and refund it once the RMA is returned.
NewEgg is cool, so be nice!
It's 10:19 where I am now so its past the time I can call, I guess Ill do it tomorrow, Im not sure the PSU is faulty though as my other PSU did the same thing basically should I just RMA just in case?
Also about cross shipping ]http://www.newegg.com/HelpInfo/FAQDetail.aspx?Module=6] seems like they dont do that anymore?
Edit: RMAed the MOBO for a replacement and refunded the PSU because I have one from my old computer that should work fine. I had to be a little stern on the chat to get it though, but in the end newegg came through XD. Now that I had to take off the Heatsink I need to wipe and reapply the thermal paste right? ******* hate doing that, but I'd rather clean them now and store them in their boxes then have them sit there.
Also about cross shipping ]http://www.newegg.com/HelpInfo/FAQDetail.aspx?Module=6] seems like they dont do that anymore?
Edit: RMAed the MOBO for a replacement and refunded the PSU because I have one from my old computer that should work fine. I had to be a little stern on the chat to get it though, but in the end newegg came through XD. Now that I had to take off the Heatsink I need to wipe and reapply the thermal paste right? ******* hate doing that, but I'd rather clean them now and store them in their boxes then have them sit there.
Quote:
"The catch" is they charge your credit card and refund it once the RMA is returned. Does Newegg cross-ship?
Newegg does not cross-ship any items. If you do have a defective item, and it is eligible for a refund, you can get an RMA for a refund on that item. Separate from that, you can re-order the item on the website. You will receive the refund for the defective item once we process the RMA.
I posted you at 9:28PM EST and NewEgg is in California 5:28PM and their facility ships until 8~10PM their time; there was a 'chance' you could have saved-off a day and/or reduced the processing time.
Anyway, Good Luck!
I'll post a pic when I get a chance im now thinking it might have been a better idea just to return it and then order another one
fml the package said CA I better not have to wait for that to get to them in CA that will take forever
I dont even care about the refunded money I just want my dam mobo and a working computer. I'm super depressed about this now.
fml the package said CA I better not have to wait for that to get to them in CA that will take forever
I dont even care about the refunded money I just want my dam mobo and a working computer. I'm super depressed about this now. jaquith said:
It's very rare that the CPU Pins are damaged before shipping (i.e. MOBO Mfg), but I look and photograph them anyway -- just in case they are...most of the time 99.99%+ it's the End User's doing.
The Intel i5-2400 - http://ark.intel.com/products/52207 is an LGA 1155 socket CPU and only drops-in one way and the notches line up one way, and as I mentioned the arm wouldn't lock-down.
Are you sure you didn't drop the CPU edge-first into the socket??
Are you sure you didn't drop the CPU edge-first into the socket??
edge first? you mean sideways? no I place it down from above (in if you will) I didn't slide it in there that's not how you put a CPU in. From experience you place it in and latch it in, I didn't remember having that much trouble latching it, but its been years since I last put a CPU in, but that person can attest to it working fine to this day.
I meant did you accidentally DROP the CPU into the socket.
What I do:
* Press the latch arm down and out to 'clear' the latch
* Move the CPU retainer back and tilted so it stays open
* Remove the plastic CPU Cover from the metal CPU retainer
* CAREFULLY examine the CPU and socket to match-up the notches on both the socket and CPU
* Holding the CPU on the PCB edges (typically top and bottom) line-up the top first so the top slides in from my index finger and then the bottom with my thumb
* Close the CPU retainer holding it while it closes (not allowing it to slap shut)
* Pull the latch arm down and under the latch
Done ; typically start to finish <15 seconds or less (for me) and on an LGA 2011 with (2) latches.
What I do:
* Press the latch arm down and out to 'clear' the latch
* Move the CPU retainer back and tilted so it stays open
* Remove the plastic CPU Cover from the metal CPU retainer
* CAREFULLY examine the CPU and socket to match-up the notches on both the socket and CPU
* Holding the CPU on the PCB edges (typically top and bottom) line-up the top first so the top slides in from my index finger and then the bottom with my thumb
* Close the CPU retainer holding it while it closes (not allowing it to slap shut)
* Pull the latch arm down and under the latch
Done ; typically start to finish <15 seconds or less (for me) and on an LGA 2011 with (2) latches.
"Close the CPU retainer holding in wile it closes" can you phrase that? Also CPU pics are up
http://imageshack.us/g/594/201203281552474371.jpg/
I don't see anything strange then again I've never seen any others before, but I don't see any scratches or anything different from another.
http://imageshack.us/g/594/201203281552474371.jpg/
I don't see anything strange then again I've never seen any others before, but I don't see any scratches or anything different from another.
typos (2) * Close the CPU retainer holding it while it closes (not allowing it to slap shut)
What's the CPU doing ATTACHED to the Stock HSF???
I hope you didn't attached the CPU to the HSF then attempt to install it into the Socket?? That's really weird.
CPU Install Video LGA 1156 (same for LGA 1155):
What's the CPU doing ATTACHED to the Stock HSF???
I hope you didn't attached the CPU to the HSF then attempt to install it into the Socket?? That's really weird.
CPU Install Video LGA 1156 (same for LGA 1155):
No i didn't try installing it like that, I didn't want the thermal paste to dry out so I put it back on for now, I need to clean it off though (pain in my ass) Did you notice anything wrong with it other than that lol
Edit: Totally order another the mobo again and had them change the rma to refund, they want 2-5 business days both ways for the replacement, 3 day free shipping on an ordered one? yea.
Edit: Totally order another the mobo again and had them change the rma to refund, they want 2-5 business days both ways for the replacement, 3 day free shipping on an ordered one? yea.
Bakuryu42 said:
No i didn't try installing it like that, I didn't want the thermal paste to dry out so I put it back on for now, I need to clean it off though (pain in my ass) Did you notice anything wrong with it other than that lolEdit: Totally order another the mobo again and had them change the rma to refund, they want 2-5 business days both ways for the replacement, 3 day free shipping on an ordered one? yea.
Clean it with isopropyl alcohol.
I have cleaning stuff, and some arctic silver or w/e from radio shack although I heard that stuff isn't as good anymore. Also watching that video I did exactly the same thing although he seemed to have had a much easier time with the latch then I did then again i can "see" how much pressure he put so.
Which is why I reordered it and changed the RMA to a refund.
jaquith said:
Unless you cross ship, expect a 20~30, closer to 30, days total turn around time.Which is why I reordered it and changed the RMA to a refund.
TIM use Arctic Cooling MX-4 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... 1/4" thin line in the center of the CPU.
Bakuryu42 said:
Is the Arctic silver that bad? Just trying not to spend more money then I have to, but I will if I need to.Its not bad at all, just that Arctic Cooling MX-4 is probably the best : )
Read this....
Thermal Compound Roundup 2011
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/268354-29-thermal-com...
Ok I have everything, took pictures of the mobo before doing anything, nothings bent. I cleaned my CPU and CPU Fan off using the arctic silver cleaning kit, I'm going to use it's step 2 before applying the new thermal paste I just got. I hope this works, my biggest worry is doing the latch wrong again or something, it seems like the pressure to actually hold it down doesn't start till about half way, mine started immediately last time.
Immediately suggests either something's pinched or the latch is improperly aligned. Remember don't use too much TIM. My recommendation is to make a test run with TIM until you get the amount right. The first time I do an new socket I test and clean 1~2 times before I KNOW how much to use...yeah it takes a couple cleanings...you might as well get the practice and use the stuff you purchased.
Nearly a 100% of the FIRST time you use too much.
My 2 cents.
Nearly a 100% of the FIRST time you use too much.
My 2 cents.
Test = Take out ... clean and redo. A fat grain of rice not a dehydrated gain. (~3/8" line middle sized i.e. not fat or thin) Further, the variable is the HSF itself; polished flat = less vs tube 'groves' = more.
IF you get it right the first time then you KNOW it's right and Kudos for you, otherwise you are totally GUESSING and you know it. Peace of mind is worth a lot.
You do what you feel is best, I do this all of the time and my first time with LGA 2011 took me x3 tries to get it exact.
IF you get it right the first time then you KNOW it's right and Kudos for you, otherwise you are totally GUESSING and you know it. Peace of mind is worth a lot.
You do what you feel is best, I do this all of the time and my first time with LGA 2011 took me x3 tries to get it exact.
jaquith said:
Test = Take out ... clean and redo. A fat grain of rice not a dehydrated gain. (~3/8" line middle sized i.e. not fat or thin) Further, the variable is the HSF itself; polished flat = less vs tube 'groves' = more.IF you get it right the first time then you KNOW it's right and Kudos for you, otherwise you are totally GUESSING and you know it. Peace of mind is worth a lot.
You do what you feel is best, I do this all of the time and my first time with LGA 2011 took me x3 tries to get it exact.
Can you rephrase that? 3/8 line middle size? Is it a dollop or a line? Also what are you talking about the HSF beind polished flat? less vs tube "groves" = more? Really confused right now.
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