Question about No Boot

Hello,
So I have built my new computer few days ago and recently installed the new cooler.
The problem is, after shutting down the comp and installing, my system does not boot.

I have read all the guides and stickies and I'm positive it has to do with CPU, Mobo, or PSU.

I'm leaning towards the PSU for many reasons.
First of all, the PSU is 500 Watts. However, it is holding an i7 2600k.
It's Antec Basiq 500 Watts.

The problem is this:
The fans and lights all work. I can see everything working, but there just is no boot.

I have tried replacing video card, RAM sticks, and cooler.

The confusing part is the fact that it was running fine couple of days before this.

So do you guys think I should test out a new PSU?
4 answers Last reply
More about question boot
  1. The 500 watt Basiq is a pretty nice power supply:
    http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/792

    I would start troubleshooting before I started just replacing parts.

    Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-posting-boot-problems
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    If not, continue.
    The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

    I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboarding

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

    Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

    I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps:
    Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%. If you have a white wire (many modern PSU's do not), it should be -5 volts.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=youtube_gdata

    A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

    Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
    At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
  2. It seems like after few more hours of trying to fix this, PSU IS the problem.
    PSU does not even power up anymore (from both paper clip trick and regular).
  3. Is this a bolt on cpu cooler? If so are the isolating washers installed correctly?
    You might do well to post your entire system specs...cpu,ram,graphics card,etc....
    My suggestion below might serve well after verifying the new addition....
    You might like the Corsair power supplies..I personally have the vx550 and so does my son..(because mine is so stable!)
    I've also built several systems with corsair supplies and they range fron low power needs to huge power sli/crossfire systems....never had a complaint!!!
    I've also heard good things about PC Power & Cooling....they have some very nice supplies...and last but not least Seasonic who make alot of supplies for other manufacturers...
    Hope this helps...JQ
  4. Thanks for the suggestion.
    Well this is my system spec:
    Intel i7 2600k Sandybridge (part of the reason I know it won't most likely be CPU that's the problem)
    CM H212+
    Biostar TP67B+ Motherboard
    8gb Crucial Ram (2x4gb)
    crappy 8400 gs (as I am not a gamer/graphic designer)

    I pretty much sorted out that Antec Basiq 500w PSU has to be the reason why.

    I have ordered a new PSU and will inform you guys on how it goes.
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