Gaming pc not booting.

Hi all,i have recently built a new pc
AMD 955 be cpu, Corsair 4 GB 1600 MHZ DDR3 RAM, some WD HDD,Sapphire 6850 gpu, ASUS M4A88T-MLE mobo, Gigabyte 460 watt PSU.
It was working fine. Then suddenly after a shut down ( proper shut down by me ) it refused to boot. Window icon was appearing on the screen but nothing was happening after that. I thought it was some OS error so i connected my HDD to some old pc then everything worked fine. Then i reconnected my HDD to my new build and tried safe mode, start up repair, low resolution mode etc but nothing worked. I also tried removing and reinserting CMOS battery and RAM stick but the problem remained the same. Sometimes the BIOS was also freezing. What can be the problem ? Please help.
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  1. No replies ????? I am dying to play some games ......plz someone help.....
    One more thing, my bios is showing DRAM frequency 1333 MHZ while i have 1600 mhz RAM.
  2. Welcome, Newcomer. Have you worked through our standard checklist for troubleshooting "no boot" issues? If not, please click on the link in my signature.

    When you reply, please use the checklist as a template to annotate the results/observations of each item in the list.
  3. Yeah, i have already checked all the steps but i am not sure if i accidentally damaged something on my mobo. Mobo is looking fine and the small light on mobo is also working. Cpu fan and bios are also working ( bios is sometimes freezing ).
  4. If you've already worked through the checklist, then you must've seen the link to jsc's breadboarding guide. What were the results of this?
  5. Drop to a single stick of RAM in required slot; check ram timings/voltage per Corsair
  6. Hello, T_T.

    Expanded breadboard guide:

    The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

    I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

    Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

    I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps:
    Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%. If you have a white wire (many modern PSU's do not), it should be -5 volts.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.

    A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

    Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
    At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
  7. I haven't tried breadboarding yet. I will try it and post here if it works between i have one single stick of 4 GB RAM.
  8. Ok, i have done with breadbording. But still no success.
    I started with cpu and mobo with no RAM. sound was like one long beep followed by two short beeps.
    Then i installed RAM. sound was same.
    Then i installed GPU. sound changed to long beep (no beeping, but it was long continuous sound) .
    Then i connected keyboard, mouse but again window icon appeared and freezed.
    Then i removed the RAM but the sound was again continuous long beep.Is it the problem with my RAM as
    my gpu and PSU are fine since they are working on my old computer.
    One more thing, when should i connect my HDD during this breadbording process ?
  9. While breadboarding, have you tried the single RAM stick in all of the DIMM slots?
    If not, try doing that. If the results are the same, then you've likely found your problem. At this point, though, I'd run MemTest86+ v4.2 on your RAM, just to be sure.

    In regards to your HDD question, since the problem is booting into Windows, then yes, you should have your HDD connected. However, if you've got a spare HDD to try installing Windows on, then that's certainly an avenue to explore.
  10. Hello, I have already tried putting the RAM in different slots. But the software you suggested seems good. I will run it and post here the results. Thanks for help.
  11. Okkk, i am done with RAM testing and it showed no errors.
    My cpu temperature is also 40 to 50 degree.I think the problem is with my motherboard because the BIOS is continuously freezing. Any suggestions ? :(
  12. Someone please help......
  13. Do you have another GPU to test on the maching you are troubleshooting?

    Gpu could be the problem maybe the PCIe slot on your mobo is be messed up
  14. I have tried onboard graphics, they are also not working.... and GPU is working fine on my old build.
  15. If the following statements are true, then you very likely have a bad mobo:

    1. PSU voltages have been tested, and all wires are within tolerance
    2. RAM has been tested by MemTest86+ v4.2; run for 3-4 passes each stick; no errors
    3. RAM has been tested, one stick at a time, and in every DIMM slot; no change
    4. Breadboarding does not reveal a short between mobo and case, or device(s) and case
    5. Non-boot devices (optical drives, storage HDD, etc) were left disconnected while attempting to boot
    6. CPU has been checked and verified that no pins are bent
    7. Thermal paste between CPU and HSF is spread out evenly and not too thick; ensured no thermal paste got into the CPU socket
    8. HSF spins at normal revolutions (doesn't spin for .5 second, then suddenly stop)

    If the above statements are true, and you still can't get the system to operate normally, then you very well could have a bad mobo. At this point, seeking an RMA might be your next step.
  16. I haven't checked step 1 yet. Will do it tomorrow.Should i try updating my bios from pen drive ?
  17. Not until you've confirmed your system is stable. Should you attempt to flash your BIOS, and then your system freezes before the update can complete, there will be a big chance that you'll ruin your motherboard.
  18. Suddenly my system successfully boot up. I opened up the cpu cooler and removed the cpu, reinserted it and tadaaaaa..... my system came to life but then i shut it down and again tried to boot then it refused again, then after 2-3 attempts it again started successfully. I don't know why this is happening. Between thermal paste was evenly distributed over the cpu and no traces of it were inside cpu socket.
  19. Try reinstalling the stock heatsink, but make sure you remove all of the thermal paste, and then reapply. If the problem persists, you could have a bad CPU or bad mobo.
  20. Okkkk, i will do that, but one more thing i want to add that once the system is on, games are working fine. For example last night i played battlefield bad company on highest settings and it worked flawlessly with no freezes or crashes. System is perfectly stable. How could it be possible if the cpu is bad ?
  21. I removed the cpu and reinserted it two times and both times the pc booted successfully. Other than that no luck.....What can be the cause of it ?
  22. do you overclock?
  23. No, i did not overclock it yet.
    My pc is booting only if i am removing and reinserting my cpu.
    Between once the pc is on, it is working flawlessly as I have played battlefield bad company and black ops on full HD for more than 2-3 hours.
  24. If you have to keep removing and reinstalling the CPU to get your system up and running stable, then that is a problem. You still have yet to post your results/observations of the PSU test and stock heatsink test.

    If PSU is good and problem persists, put in your stock heatsink, but remember to remove/reapply thermal paste.

    If problem still persists after reinstalling the stock HSF, then you've likely got a bad mobo.
  25. PSU test and stock heatsink test ? How can i do that ?
  26. Test voltages on the PSU, see post from jsc (above).

    For the stock heatsink/cooler, verify that the fan spins properly, and not just the .5 second, one revolution spin. If the heatsink fan doesn't spin properly, try connecting a different fan to the heatsink fan header on the mobo. Also connect the HSF to the case fan header.
  27. Fan is spinning fine. I will check PSU voltages and post here.
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