HELP - Dead Motherboard?

Hi here are the specs for this computer I built myself.

CPU: AMD X6 1090T
MOBO: MSI 880G-E45
PSU: COODMAX 650W (some generic brand)
Memory: 8GB Kingston DDR3 PC10600
CPU Fan: Thermaltake Frio
Case: Antec Nine Hundred V3
HDD: 1 TB Seagate
GPU: Onboard Radeon 4230HD

That's basically all.

Alright so I've had this PC working wonderfully with me for about 3 months now. When I first got the PC, I left it on stress testing just to see if everything will work stock.
I HAVE NO OVERCLOCKED ANYTHING. The other day, I decided to see what temps I would get so I decided to test stress the PC and leave it running for about 20 minutes.
I then left the room to use the toilet for about 10 minutes, and when I came back the PC was off.

I then tried turning on the PC, and the blue leds on the FANs on the case turned on for half a second then turned off.

With myself being in panic, the first thing I did was disconnect the HDD and other drivers and tried re-booting the PC but no success. I'm not sure if my motherboard somehow died under pressure. Because I've already stress tested my PC about 15 times, but this was the first time for the PC to actually turn off WITH STOCK.

Could anyone help me out to see if it is not dead or what is the problem.

EDIT: I had another 550W PSU lying around. I just tried it but still no luck. I then did the PSU paperclip trick, to see if the PSU actually turns on, and both PSUs SEEM to be working. For now I am sticking with my 550W psu just in case the 650W did something bad.
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  1. Okay I just tried disconnecting everything but only having the following connected to the PSU:
    CPU (4 PIN connector)
    1 Blue LED case fan.

    When I tried turning on the PC, the LED lit up and the fan only ran for half a second then everything just turned off.

    I then tried disconnecting the POWER from the CPU, and guess what, the mobo turned on, and my CPU fan started spinning as it normally would.

    Does this mean I have a dead CPU?
  2. power supply have a built in dead short protection. sound like something in your build failed and the mb are not turning on to protect them selfs. I would pull the mb from the case and check to see if you can see any pop caps or burn marks. looks carefully on the mb where all the caps are that the voltage reg for the mb. if it not a dead short you may have had a temp get to hot (gpu or cpu) and the mb/cpu shut off for safty. most time you have to reset the bios with the jumper to clear the cmos and have the mb post again.
  3. Tehnoob2010 said:

    I then tried disconnecting the POWER from the CPU, and guess what, the mobo turned on, and my CPU fan started spinning as it normally would.
    Does this mean I have a dead CPU?

    No. What you saw is pretty normal behavior of a system with an unplugged CPU power cable.

    And all the paperclip test tells you is that the PSU may be good.

    Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    If not, continue.
    The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

    I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
    If the system POST's here, you have a case shorting problem.

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

    Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

    I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps:

    Check for line power at the PSU input. Extension cords, power strips, and power cords do fail.

    If you have power and no beeps, suspect components in likely order are PSU, motherboard, and CPU.

    Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

    The green wire will alway have 5 volts on it. When you press the power switch, the voltage should drop to 0 volts.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.

    A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card. If you get this with motherboard graphics, your motherboard is bad.

    Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
    At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card. In this case, you will POST successfully (single short beep). But your monitor will display a "missing signal" message.

    In that case, the first thing you do is to test the monitor and data cable with another system to make sure it works. If the monitor works, the video card is bad. If you have motherboard graphics, again, the motherboard is bad.
  4. I had the same problem with MSI mobo recently, ended up sending for RMA, according to them if they send the same motherboard with same serial number back it means motherboard is ok. Guess what they sent the same motherboard back to me and (knock on the wood) it still works, but what does that mean then? I didn't send for RMA any other component except for motherboard, and they sent me the same one back claiming nothing's wrong, yet it works now!?
    What I would suggest before you rma, try to reseat the cpu and memory. Take it out of their sockets and then put it back. Clear cmos. Heck maybe even turn on the power supply with everything removed, so mobo notices changes, and then put it all back. If no luck most likely you will end up RMAing
  5. I've already sent it for RMA.
    So I am hoping that I get a new board, so that I can trade it for a better board.
  6. They sent back a new mobo.
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