Hate to ask this...but is my motherboard dead?

I went afk for <15 minutes with steam and DotA2 open. I was about to get back on dota, when all of a sudden it wouldn't open. So I thought I would open task manager to make an attempt to close it. after Ctrl+alt+del i clicked task manager and my computer froze. After about 15 seconds I blue screened but I didn't manage to get a picture of it (maybe).

After it restarted, I didn't get video signal, but all the fans and leds were on. Then I noticed my mouse and keyboard didn't light up like the normally do, so I checked my power connections on my case to see if the front usbs were in, and also all the other connectors, they were all in. http://imgur.com/a/oQUjl is the album of everything that happened. At first I was thinking it was the gpu but at this point I really don't know.


*Amd phenom 965t clocked at 3.95ghz @ 1.5v (I know its a little high but if I dropped it down a notch windows wouldn't start up)
*2xDiamond 5770s in Xfire
*8 gigs of Kingston 2x4 sticks 1333 mhz
*asus m4a89gtd/with usb 3.0 mobo
*antec 900
*thermaltake tr2 rx 650w psu.

Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!

Also, I tried booting without the gpus and only using the intergrated, restarting my CMOS by taking out the battery and the little pin thing and set it back after a few minutes. I still have warrantys on everything but no boxes, so Would I still be able to RMA without the box? (I still do have the box for my psu which has a 5 year warranty if thats the case.)

I went through the checklist, and after what i've been reading maybe a rewire and reseating of RAM might do the trick, but since it happened well my computer was on I don't know. I have a local frys by me which I still have a 1 year warranty on all my parts but I have seemed to misplaced the reciet :(. I hate asking for help so I probably won't take it in unless it's to claim something for my warranty.
1 answer Last reply
More about hate this motherboard dead
  1. To start with, remove all overclocks and pull one video card. Then try again.

    Still broken? For a blind first guess, I would suspect your power supply. TT TR2's are not particularly good power supplies.

    Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    If not, continue.
    The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

    I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
    If the system POST's here, you have a case shorting problem.

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

    Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

    I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps:

    Check for line power at the PSU input. Extension cords, power strips, and power cords do fail.

    If you have power and no beeps, suspect components in likely order are PSU, motherboard, and CPU.

    Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

    The green wire will alway have 5 volts on it. When you press the power switch, the voltage should drop to 0 volts.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.

    A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card. If you get this with motherboard graphics, your motherboard is bad.

    Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
    At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card. In this case, you will POST successfully (single short beep). But your monitor will display a "missing signal" message.

    In that case, the first thing you do is to test the monitor and data cable with another system to make sure it works. If the monitor works, the video card is bad. If you have motherboard graphics, again, the motherboard is bad.
Ask a new question

Read More