First build, PSU clicks won't start up

Hi guys, this is my first build I've already bought, received, and put everything together but when I flip the power on and press the power button all that happens is 2 clicks from the PSU, no fans or led's light up like I expected. Google hasn't been helpful and all my parts looked compatible but I could be mistaken. If you guys have any suggestions about what could be wrong or how to fix it please let me know. Here's my set up:

Antec Earthwatts 650W
Seagate 7200.11 1.5TB HDD
AMD Phenom II x4 965 Deneb Black 3.4GHz
GIGABYTE Radeon HD 6870 (Haven't installed yet MOBO had onboard graphics)
Rosewill Cruiser
Sony Optiarc DVD burner
G.SKILL 2x4GB DDR3 1333

If there's any info that I left out I will be happy to give it.

The 8GB of ddr3 aren't listed on the supported memory list for my motherboard. I thought I checked for it before I bought it but maybe not, anyways if they're actually not supported could that cause this problem?

Final Edit:
Case fans were giving me crap, just went through the guide jsc posted, was very helpful thanks a bunch!
4 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about first build clicks start
  1. Make sure you have 110V/220V selected depending where you live. Make sure all the power connections are connected to your motherboard (4/8pin 24pin). Make sure your Power, reset, speaker connections are connected to the motherboard.

    You can also try the paper clip test on your psu to make sure its working correctly.
  2. Best answer
    crewton said:
    Make sure you have 110V/220V selected depending where you live.

    :pfff: His Antec does not have a 110/220 volt switch. Modern PSU's do not have this switch.

    crewton said:
    Make sure all the power connections are connected to your motherboard (4/8pin 24pin). Make sure your Power, reset, speaker connections are connected to the motherboard.

    Good advice.

    crewton said:

    You can also try the paper clip test on your psu to make sure its working correctly.

    The paperclip test can tell you if a PSU is dead, but it cannot tell you if a PSU is good. All it can really tell you is that the PSU can produce enough 12 volt current to power a fan. It doesn't tell you anything about the 3.3, 5, and 5 volt standby outputs. It also does not check the PowerGood control signal or how well it performs under load.

    Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
    I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

    If not, continue.
    The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

    I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

    Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.

    Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

    Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

    I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

    You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

    If no beeps:
    Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

    At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

    The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

    You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.

    A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

    This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

    If the system beeps:
    If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

    Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

    Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
    At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

    Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
  3. I'm going to get a system speaker from microcenter tomorrow so that should help but I have another question about the power cable for the motherboard.

    it says "the detachable 4-pin section cannot be used in place of a 4-pin +12V connector." My mobo uses 24 pins, does that mean I take off the detachable 4-pin from the 24-pin main power connector and plug in the 4-pin coming directly from the PSU? It would be like 20 pins from the main power cord and 4 from what I think is a 4pin +12v for the total 24 pins.

    I'm sure it's just me being a tard but my brain just can't handle those couple sentences.
  4. Best answer selected by boodro.
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