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New build won't turn on at all. Help please

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May 12, 2011 5:33:02 AM

First time builder. Putting it together was fairly easy, I am 90% sure that everything is in place. All plugs are tight and in order. Went for the first boot up, and nothing. No lights, although I didn't kno there was a mobo light that was suppose to be on, if it was I didn't notice it. No beeps either JUST now, after going over troubleshooting again, i see that the reset panel plug can short out and cause it not to boot, but I figured the fans and lights would still come on atleast. There is no video card in this setup.

Thing is my panel wires, reset, power up were actually in the wong places. Red light on Challenger case came on after PSU switch was turned on, but would not actually start up, no fans, no LED lights, nothing. Went through the troubleshooting guide did alot of that, changed my panel plugs to there right location, then no lights whatsoever came on, not even the red light on the front of the case.

I got worried that maybe my processor wasnt installed right and made the mistake after an hour of misery to pull the heatsink off before trying the pull overthing but the PSU and HSF and trying to get it to start beeping. Now that my heatsink is off I am afraid to put it back on and try it without having some thermal paste handy, all that is on there is from what came on the Heatsink. Is it safe to put it back on and atleast try to find a MOBO light or See if I can get it to beep atleast doing the troubleshooting method.

I tried switching the CMOS to the 2-3 slot for a bit, i didn't kn o if you have to try and boot it in that configuration or let it sit like that for a little bit, I just let it sit then switched it back. Obviously that didnt work.

Things I would like to mention that I did wrong and didn't know about until investigating problems.

1. I built this down on the floor (carpet) no anti static wrist band. Didn't know this was a no no until about 1/2 to 3/4 through build. This worries me
2. Didn't ground until finding out about it. This worries me
3. Installed motherboard without standups, had it all tightened down, then had to take back out and redo with standups.
4. Not a known problem, but there is still one plug coming from the PSU that is not hooked up, but I don't know what it goes to, It is a 6+2 plug in that comes strait out of the PSU, it says PCI-express. I can't see a place where it goes, so I figured it was for another device I don't have in the computer, video card, etc.

Sorry for the long post, just seeing what you guys think this problem could be, don't kno where to go from here. Any help would be great. First build has become a major headache. If you have any more questions, dont be afraid to ask, I will try to tell you the best I can

Components.
-Rosewill Challenger case
-Antec Earthwatts 550 plus
-ASrock H61M
-G-sKILL F3 4GB
-Intel i5 Sandybridge 2400


More about : build turn

May 12, 2011 5:44:45 AM

6+2pin is for a graphic card no worries about that one. The chance for shorting out your motherboard from the sounds of it is there but I wouldn't go that route yet.

It sounds like you've got the power/reset/speakers on right since you know you had them on wrong :p  Is the 4/8pin and 24pin power connections on the motherboard?

Another thing that scared me the first time is the amount of force required to put RAM in. It might seem like a lot but if you just lightly put them in they can still clamp but not actually be in. Reput the RAM sticks in firmly to make sure that isn't the case.

I assume your motherboard has 2 jumper pins to reset the bios. Make sure you don't have the jumper cable or anything connecting those pins together.

Make sure the power switch is on >.>

Can't think of anything else atm let me know if one of those things works.
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May 12, 2011 12:57:51 PM

Ya tried the reset,power,led plugs in every possible way, nothing changed. I have checked the 24 pin/8 pin power connections a bunch of times, that was what i figured was my best best, but they both seem plugged in fully, I tried giving them a tug and everything, all seeems well.

As far as the RAM goes, I have pushed and made sure they are fullly seated, seems so. It wouldn't seem from what i have read that the RAM being faulty or not all the way in would be a reason for no lights at all coming on.

Teh CMOS jumper is just a cap that goes over two pins at a time. No wires on it that i can tell.

Power switch was one

I am stumped.
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May 12, 2011 5:02:44 PM

Is it safe to put my Heatsink back on to test the stuff out, breadboard etc? Or do I need to wait to get some compound first.

I just want to test some more stuff, but like an idiot i removed the heatsink.

Am i at a standstill right now or is there other things i can do?
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May 12, 2011 6:08:34 PM

You definitely want to clean the cpu and heatsink and get some new thermal paste before you put things back together.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/274745-31-step-step-g... <--Step by step guide to building
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-ste... <--Troubleshooting guide

Not sure if you have read these. They are very informative and helpful if you haven't.

Does the fan on your PSU spin when you press the power button? Have you taken the front panel of the case off to look for shorts? Have you tried this in more than one outlet?
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May 12, 2011 6:37:42 PM

Do you have a case speaker plugged in? No beeps without one, and I'm pretty sure the challenger doesn't come with one.
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May 12, 2011 6:41:37 PM

^+1 ND Hunter On the trouble shooting quide. Most of the time it is one of the things listed
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May 12, 2011 6:45:40 PM

You should be ok to put sink on to test only, but Once you figure out the problem you need to clean, prep and reapply.(using proper cleaners, prep and compund) This is why folks should have some handy even if the THermal compound is preapplied. You just never know when you may have to pull things apart or reposition a heatsink core due to caps or what ever. The $10 to $20 or so is well worth it

Products similar to these

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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May 12, 2011 6:51:30 PM

Is the cpu wire /power connector plugged in?
Try just 1 stick of ram also in diff slots
gpu power plugged in

Ah heck just read the trouble shooting. If you have a multi meter you can also test the PSU
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May 12, 2011 9:12:43 PM

I have went over the troubleshooting tips a bunch of times now, doing most of them. Havent tried just one stick of ram yet, and haven't tried pulling front panel of and looking for shorts.

My friend down the street said he has some thermal compound that i can use to put heat sink back on, just found that out a little bit ago.

CPU wire. power con is plugged in. Everything is in place and tight. The PSU fan does not work, nothing is working.

As far as the case speaker goes, dont know about that. I know the motherboard or case came with a little speaker thing that plugged into the motherboard. Have heard no noise from it.

I am going to unplug the PSU from everything and do the paper clip test to see if it is not faulty when I get home. I also want to try and start the computer from the mobo if I know how. Heard it was just screw driver to the two pins that are for the start up button.
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May 12, 2011 9:51:39 PM

Try things in a different outlet before you short the PSU. Sounds like that's what's holding up the show :( 
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May 12, 2011 9:59:28 PM

I just tried the PSU paperclip test. Unplugged everything that PSU plugs into. Plugged PSU into wall, inserted paperclip, and all i heard was a clicking noise, fan never turned on, but PSU acted like it was trying to do something.

From what I read around if fan does not come on, there is something wrong with PSU.

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May 12, 2011 11:38:13 PM

If you or a friend had a multimeter then you could check PSU output. It can save so much time
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May 13, 2011 5:42:03 AM

rechecked power supply, it is in working order. Did pin test and it ran my dvd burner, hard drive and the fan was running.

Still doesn't work while plugged into mother board, which brings me to my next question. I did not know this when purchasing motherboard, but it does not have a onboard video card. Could this be my main problem why nothing is working??????????

I did not buy a video card, I didn't know I needed one, I thought that was just an upgrade you could make.

Still no case lights, or case fans coming on, PCU fan still not running when power is applied to mobo. Video card missing problem
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May 13, 2011 6:08:00 AM

Hell yes, LOL do you or a friend have a GPU(Video card) that will fit. The mobo paperwork should tell you what interface you need. OOps just checked you info above, you will need a gpu for PCI express slot. Not 100% sure but I think any PCI interface should work although the new technology is PCI Express 2.0 X16. Double check your paperwork as your mobo also has 2 pci slots and 1 pci express x1 and a card with one of those interfaces should work also. If your going to buy one and your gaming then your best bet would be pci express 2.0x16

With ASRock I'm pretty sure you need the H67 mobo to get onboard/intergrated video, not sure if any of there lower mobos have one.
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May 13, 2011 6:19:50 AM

The integrated graphics should be in the cpu. HD 2000. You don't need a gpu for it.
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May 13, 2011 6:24:22 AM

Actually being and H along with H67 you should have Intel Graphics and there Z68 mobo also has intergrated video but the cheapest one ARSock Z68 has is about $125.00. Even though their Z68 mobos show no video chipset I believe it is part of the new z68 chip.
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May 13, 2011 6:30:51 AM

crewton said:
The integrated graphics should be in the cpu. HD 2000. You don't need a gpu for it.


^+1 Sorry I pulled up the info on the wrong card. I thought it should have graphics as it's an H. I read his post wrong and had pulled up info for diff mobo


Here is the link to your card, as you will see you have graphics
http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=H61M/U3S3
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May 13, 2011 6:38:22 AM

You should be ok with your memory but what is the specifics of it I know it's G-sKILL F3 4GB but certain ones may not be compatible with your CPU and mobo

Your mobo mem info
Dual Channel DDR3 memory technology
- 2 x DDR3 DIMM slots
- Supports DDR3 1333/1066 non-ECC, un-buffered memory
- Max. capacity of system memory: 16GB*

*Due to the operating system limitation, the actual memory size may be less than 4GB for the reservation for system usage under Windows® 32-bit OS. For Windows® 64-bit OS with 64-bit CPU, there is no such limitation.

I quess another good question would be what OS are you running?

I also just read through your NO NOs and you could have shorted out your board, #1 is about the craziest. (#4)That plug I think should goto a GPU. I know men don't read or need directions but when it is your first you should get and use them. You are not the first and you will not be the last one to build a pc on the carpet. Did you run around w/ just socks on dragging your feet? I hope if the board is bad now(which I hope it's fine) and you can RMA it you do not give it a bad review like many others
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May 13, 2011 1:14:22 PM

This is the memory I have, I looked the list over, and did not see the ram listed. As a matter of fact i couldn't find any G-skill ram that corresponded with their part numbers. Weird.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Just to make sure, I do not need a graphics card, correct?

I am to the point that i believe my mobo is gone. I tried doing a breadboard last night, mobo never made a sound. I hope the processor isn't shot either, it has never done anything yet.

I am not the kind of guy to write negative reviews unless it was truly needed. Definitly not in a case like this.

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May 13, 2011 1:33:44 PM

That memory should work fine....even if it didn't post because of it, things would light up and beep and whatnot.
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May 13, 2011 4:30:44 PM

ND is correct on the memory, you would atleast get something, I thought you did but after reading again that was only on psu test. As you said the PSU is working due to test. I commend you on your review standards and don't take anything I wrote badly as it was not ment that way. If you followed the trouble shooting guide(several times) I can't say for sure as not being there and testing things but I think your conclusions on the mobo may be correct and cant tell on the cpu. I was hoping that things were going to be ok when I checked back. Well it's up to you on what you do now, you could try and contact ASRock for tech support. Good luck I think most things are/were covered but I will check again when I get back. Could be missing something right infront of us
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May 13, 2011 11:36:24 PM

I think it's time for an RMA... :(  that sucks dude.
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May 13, 2011 11:52:56 PM

Most of this stuff from the trouble shoot page

did you remove any protective covering b4 installing cpu?

Did you install the system speaker (if provided)You had said the mobo had come with a tiny speaker) so you can check beep-codes in the manual? A system speaker is NOT the same as normal speakers that plug into the back of the motherboard. A system speaker plugs into a header on the motherboard that's usually located near the front panel connectors. The system speaker is a critical component when trying to troubleshoot system problems. You are flying blind without a system speaker

Have you done this? need a/the system speaker though
"Pull everything except the CPU and HSF. Boot. You should hear a series of long single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence here indicates, in probable order, a bad PSU, motherboard, or CPU - or a bad installation where something is shorting and shutting down the PSU.

To eliminate the possiblility of a bad installation where something is shorting and shutting down the PSU, you will need to pull the motherboard out of the case and reassemble the components on an insulated surface. This is called "breadboarding" - from the 1920's homebrew radio days. I always breadboard a new or recycled build. It lets me test components before I go through the trouble of installing them in a case.


If you get the long beeps, add a stick of RAM. Boot. The beep pattern should change to one long and two or three short beeps. Silence indicates that the RAM is shorting out the PSU (very rare). Long single beeps indicates that the BIOS does not recognize the presence of the RAM.

If you get the one long and two or three short beeps, test the rest of the RAM. If good, install the video card and any needed power cables and plug in the monitor. If the video card is good, the system should successfully POST (one short beep, usually) and you will see the boot screen and messages.

Note - an inadequate PSU will cause a failure here or any step later.
Note - you do not need drives or a keyboard to successfully POST (generally a single short beep).

If you successfully POST, start plugging in the rest of the components, one at a time."

The best way to check the PSU is to swap it with a known good PSU of similar capacity. Brand new, out of the box, untested does not count as a known good PSU. PSU's, like all components, can be DOA.

Next best thing is to get (or borrow) a digital multimeter and check the PSU.

Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

Here are a few more sites/links for trouble shooting and might have some more ideas
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/ [...] g#t1934282


Here's a couple more sites that may help:


http://www.gamespot.com/pages/foru [...] d=26986920
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuc [...] ctors.html


You don't happen to live in NJ do you? I figured I would ask as sometimes it's a small world. One day I found I was chatting with a neighbor. If you do and your not far maybe I could bring buy a multimeter, I have several digital ones

Unfortunetly this is one of the most important steps -Did you ensure you discharged all static electricity before touching any of your components
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May 14, 2011 12:09:15 AM

nd_hunter said:
I think it's time for an RMA... :(  that sucks dude.


I was going to say that. (If it was me) I myself would be on the fence about returning as its a good chance I screwed the pooch(my fault) but it could have been DOA. Although they could eat the cost easier than I could

I just hope he got it at a place he can return it to, never know the cpu could be shot also and if so this could be a long process-return board wait for new-install(oh crap cpu shot) return cpu wait for new Damn could be a month or so even if its not it still sucks. Hope it wasn't CompUSA if they still have stores as they don't want to take anything back if opened.

What did you jump to get the hard drive and fan to spin? There is a very slight chance (miniscule) that it could be the PSU. Some times when bad they may produce power but not 12v say maybe only 10v or so. This would be enough to spin a fan and maybe an HD. Plus you could have a dead gray wire, but I think you should get something even if that was the case but maybe not. This is where a meter would make sure it's the mobo or PSU.
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May 14, 2011 12:16:03 AM

OFF topic-ND if you read this WHat do you think of the Z68, worth me getting instead of P67. I'm waiting about a week more to see what other boards ay come out, well unless someone has a super crazy deal on say a Deluxe, Sabertooth, Exteme6 P67
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May 14, 2011 12:34:45 AM

Forgive me if this isn't your problem, but it was the case in a post about a week ago that someone thought the PC should turn on when the power supply's switch was turned on.

This is not the case. Once you turn your PSU on and get the LED on your motherboard indicating that the board has power, you must then press the power button on the front of the case to turn the computer on.

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May 14, 2011 12:52:49 AM

technoidgit said:
OFF topic-ND if you read this WHat do you think of the Z68, worth me getting instead of P67. I'm waiting about a week more to see what other boards ay come out, well unless someone has a super crazy deal on say a Deluxe, Sabertooth, Exteme6 P67


If you're going Z68, wait until a few more boards that have Ludic Virtu are on the market. It looks like the ASRock Z68 Extreme4 and ASUS P8Z68-V Pro are the only ones that are currently available. From Gigabyte, you want to make sure there is an H after the model designator (ie. GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3). I assumed this (Virtu) would be more common, but apparently not. MSI's website isn't updated yet. It looks like the ASUS P8Z68-V will also have Hydra and support x8/x8 Crossfire.
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