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ASUS M5A88-V EVO Getting hot.

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April 29, 2012 2:55:08 AM

As the title says, my ASUS Mobo has been getting hot since I put my PC together, it gets so hot it freezes up whatever game I'm playing and makes a loud repeating noise about 30 minutes into gaming in a room at 80F and the only way to get out of it is a hard reset or to shut it down completely by holding the Power button.

PC Specs:

CPU: AMD FX-4100 Unlocked Black Edition @ 3.6-3.9GHz Turbo Mode 12MB Total Cache
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB = 8GBs
GPU: AMD Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 1GB GDDR5 RAM
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM
Perif: Samsung Blu-Ray Player and DVD/CD Re-writer
MOBO: ASUS M5A88-V EVO
PSU: Thermaltake 850W TR2 Black Widow
CASE: Thermaltake Element G

My case also has pretty good airflow as my CPU, GPU and RAM never get too hot during intense gaming, just the Mobo, the Mobo is also updated to the newest Firmware and nothing is overclocked.
Usually my PC sits idle at about 70F-80F depending on the room temperature, if the room temp is 70F, my CPU will be at about 80F-86F and my RAM stays a little higher than room temp when idle but never goes over 100F even when gaming, now my CPU has hit about 48C when gaming but has never caused the freeze and has never gone over 48C when in room temp of 80F and my GPU has gotten to about 65C in the same 80F room temp, I know this is a heat problem as when my room is about 60F I never have a problem with it freezing, I also notice that when I turn my PC back on RIGHT after it froze it freezes on the Windows 7 boot screen as it froze again and have to shut it down, my HDD also stays in the 70F-88F range so it's not that either.

I've measured the temp of every heatsink in the case using my laser thermo reader and it shows that the south bridge once hit about 120F when I checked it and was concerned at how hot it was and the fact it's RIGHT next to my GPU could be adding to the problem, I also measured the inductors around the CPU and have seen them hit about 110F right after the PC freezes and same with the ones around my RAM sticks, they hit about the same temp even though the RAM will be cool and the onboard video is disabled in the BIOS so it can't be that either, I'm very good with computers hardware, software you name it and I'm great with it, I've built many computers and figured out any problem I've come across but I cannot find an answer as to why my PC keeps freezing when playing games, I've also updated, deleted and reinstalled my GPU drivers, disabled all other Audio devices except for my main, onboard sound and I still have yet to figure it out so it must be a heat problem, this Mobo also states that it can be ran in a room at room temp without fans at all and claims it's the best for overclocking as it doesn't get hot..but I've experienced none of that.
Any help would be grateful and I can post pictures of my case, inside, etc. upon request, another thing, I clean all my PC's out regularly so it's not dust piling up either.

More about : asus m5a88 evo hot

a b V Motherboard
April 29, 2012 3:42:59 AM

loanstar744 said:
As the title says, my ASUS Mobo has been getting hot since I put my PC together, it gets so hot it freezes up whatever game I'm playing and makes a loud repeating noise about 30 minutes into gaming in a room at 80F (Edit: 27C) and the only way to get out of it is a hard reset or to shut it down completely by holding the Power button.

PC Specs:

CPU: AMD FX-4100 Unlocked Black Edition @ 3.6-3.9GHz Turbo Mode 12MB Total Cache
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB = 8GBs
GPU: AMD Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 1GB GDDR5 RAM
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM
Perif: Samsung Blu-Ray Player and DVD/CD Re-writer
MOBO: ASUS M5A88-V EVO

My case also has pretty good airflow as my CPU, GPU and RAM never get too hot during intense gaming, just the Mobo, the Mobo is also updated to the newest Firmware and nothing is overclocked.
Usually my PC sits idle at about 70F-80F (Edit: 21-27C) depending on the room temperature, if the room temp is 70F (Edit: 21C), my CPU will be at about 80F-86F (Edit: 27-30C) and my RAM stays a little higher than room temp when idle but never goes over 100F (Edit: 38C) even when gaming, now my CPU has hit about (Edit: 118F) 48C when gaming but has never caused the freeze and has never gone over (Edit: 118F) 48C when in room temp of 80F (Edit: 27C) and my GPU has gotten to about 65C (Edit: 149F) in the same 80F (Edit: 27C) room temp, I know this is a heat problem as when my room is about 60F (Edit: 16C) I never have a problem with it freezing, I also notice that when I turn my PC back on RIGHT after it froze it freezes on the Windows 7 boot screen as it froze again and have to shut it down, my HDD also stays in the 70F-88F (Edit: 21-31C) range so it's not that either.

I've measured the temp of every heatsink in the case using my laser thermo reader and it shows that the south bridge once hit about 120F (Edit: 49C) when I checked it and was concerned at how hot it was and the fact it's RIGHT next to my GPU could be adding to the problem, I also measured the inductors around the CPU and have seen them hit about 110F (Edit: 43C) right after the PC freezes and same with the ones around my RAM sticks, they hit about the same temp even though the RAM will be cool and the onboard video is disabled in the BIOS so it can't be that either, I'm very good with computers hardware, software you name it and I'm great with it, I've built many computers and figured out any problem I've come across but I cannot find an answer as to why my PC keeps freezing when playing games, I've also updated, deleted and reinstalled my GPU drivers, disabled all other Audio devices except for my main, onboard sound and I still have yet to figure it out so it must be a heat problem, this Mobo also states that it can be ran in a room at room temp without fans at all and claims it's the best for overclocking as it doesn't get hot..but I've experienced none of that.
Any help would be grateful and I can post pictures of my case, inside, etc. upon request, another thing, I clean all my PC's out regularly so it's not dust piling up either.



First off I would suggest you list all of the temps in your room and computer using the same temperature scale (Celcius is the easiest to understand when referring to computer temps) so I took the liberty of going through your message and converted them (See Edits above).

That makes it a lot easier to understand what's going on. Quite frankly, I don't see any temps that look out of the ordinary. The only one that looks at all high is the one place where you said the GPU got to 65C (149F) and that's not that bad. I would expect the GPU to reach that temp range while gaming with the stock cooler. If you setup a fan profile for that you can keep the GPU temp below 60C (140F) which would be better.

As for your room temp, I would suggest you get a room air conditioner to keep your room at least closer to 21C (70F). Personally, I would be more distressed at having to sit in a room at 27C (80F) while gaming than worrying about how it affects the computer. I start sweating when the room gets above 23C (74F).
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a c 143 V Motherboard
a b Ĉ ASUS
April 29, 2012 3:46:26 AM

post a picture or link of the case and what fan you got it
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April 29, 2012 4:25:11 AM

Lonestar,
I just installed the very same mobo and I have AMD 960t unlocked to 6 cores with some small overclocking to 3.7. I also installed 8 gigs of G.Skill ram. But, I noticed the temps go up fast gaming, so, I spent all of $60.00 to put in the new Antec Kuhler 620 liquid cooler. It comes with a 120 mm fan. I have a small case, so with any case that fits a full size mobo, like this, it will fit in the back where your exhaust fan now sits.
This cooler not only cools the cpu, but has dropped the temps by an adverage of 10c. all around the board as well. My cpu used to run around 45 at idle with stock cooler and the mobo was around 35-38c. But now, the cpu is at 32-35 idle and 40-42 gaming, where it used to jump to 52 gaming. The mobo goes to 33-35 gaming. So, it's been working great, and they are very quiet. Great investment and well worth the dough. Go to Newegg and read the reviews on this, and they just dropped the price a little. The cooler also gives you the option of adding a second fan to the front to pull the warm air in and go through the radiator and blow out the back by the second fan. A suck and blow situation lol- Check em out.
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April 29, 2012 4:31:44 AM

Well, I lied, sorry. The price just went up. Newegg had a sale going, but now they went up by about 2 bucks. This well built cooler is all you need to beat the heat.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
There is one thing to remember if you decide to buy this cooler. You need to install the mounting bracket for the cpu pump, from UNDER your mobo. So, if you have a newer case with an access to the bottom of the mobo, great. If not, the mobo has to come to mount this, and mine came out. Here's a partial video of the way it goes in the case.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbNKNkLxCpk
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April 29, 2012 7:09:44 AM

JKatwyopc said:
First off I would suggest you list all of the temps in your room and computer using the same temperature scale (Celcius is the easiest to understand when referring to computer temps) so I took the liberty of going through your message and converted them (See Edits above).

That makes it a lot easier to understand what's going on. Quite frankly, I don't see any temps that look out of the ordinary. The only one that looks at all high is the one place where you said the GPU got to 65C (149F) and that's not that bad. I would expect the GPU to reach that temp range while gaming with the stock cooler. If you setup a fan profile for that you can keep the GPU temp below 60C (140F) which would be better.

As for your room temp, I would suggest you get a room air conditioner to keep your room at least closer to 21C (70F). Personally, I would be more distressed at having to sit in a room at 27C (80F) while gaming than worrying about how it affects the computer. I start sweating when the room gets above 23C (74F).


Will do, I was just citing the temps I remember and in what format, for now I'll refer to them in Celcius. I know, that's the weird part, all of my components even when under HEAVY load don't get that hot and from what I read the max temp for the FX-4100 is 65C and then it shuts down to protect itself but I've never ever had it close to that temp. My GPU does have a fan managing software and I did have a custom profile but when i reinstalled the drivers I had to stop the program from coming up, but the temp I posted about my GPU was close but not the hottest it's been, it's been to a max of 68C which is still within it's safe zone, the max you can go on this card is about 90C before it over heats and shuts down as people have said. Considering I live in the High Desert, my room temperature isn't that bad, but I do agree, I wish to keep it cooler but alas I don't have the money for a single room AC unit, usually I put my fan in my window at night and it can get anywhere to about 10C or colder depending on how long I leave it on for and during that time I have no problems, but considering all of my components stay cool even when it's a little hot it still sounds like a Mobo issue. I'm comfortable in about any temp unless it starts to hit 90F or higher, I used to live in Big Bear Lake for a few years and it would get really cold their, though I agree with you having to sit in a room at 80F while gaming might be distressing, I am far to worried about my PC getting hot to care as I haven't really been able to enjoy any of my games nor have I been able to continue building maps for the Source Engine or practice in Blender.

scout_03 said:
post a picture or link of the case and what fan you got it


Case is a Thermaltake Element G: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133086&Tpk=Thermaltake%20Element%20G Images:
Spoiler













Above you see the blue square behind the GPU, that is the South Bridge and I worry that is what's getting too hot.



Robspace1 said:
Lonestar,
I just installed the very same mobo and I have AMD 960t unlocked to 6 cores with some small overclocking to 3.7. I also installed 8 gigs of G.Skill ram. But, I noticed the temps go up fast gaming, so, I spent all of $60.00 to put in the new Antec Kuhler 620 liquid cooler. It comes with a 120 mm fan. I have a small case, so with any case that fits a full size mobo, like this, it will fit in the back where your exhaust fan now sits.
This cooler not only cools the cpu, but has dropped the temps by an adverage of 10c. all around the board as well. My cpu used to run around 45 at idle with stock cooler and the mobo was around 35-38c. But now, the cpu is at 32-35 idle and 40-42 gaming, where it used to jump to 52 gaming. The mobo goes to 33-35 gaming. So, it's been working great, and they are very quiet. Great investment and well worth the dough. Go to Newegg and read the reviews on this, and they just dropped the price a little. The cooler also gives you the option of adding a second fan to the front to pull the warm air in and go through the radiator and blow out the back by the second fan. A suck and blow situation lol- Check em out.

The Phenom's are great but I heard they get quite a bit hotter than the FX series and overclocking it is asking for heat troubles, but luckily liquid cooling solves all that, I agree but it seems that it isn't any of my major components getting hot, now if this cools the Mobo as well I might look into it, I'm just not in the position of spending anymore money right now, though I was looking at the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ and even though it's strictly air cooling, thruthfully I'm a little scared of liquid cooling, had too many bad experiences with leaking pumps, hoses, etc with coffee machines and the such and it would only take one drop, unless there's some kind of special non conductive liquid in it like an oil, never really looked into it and do they come with the liquid or do you have to buy that as well?

Robspace1 said:
Well, I lied, sorry. The price just went up. Newegg had a sale going, but now they went up by about 2 bucks. This well built cooler is all you need to beat the heat.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
There is one thing to remember if you decide to buy this cooler. You need to install the mounting bracket for the cpu pump, from UNDER your mobo. So, if you have a newer case with an access to the bottom of the mobo, great. If not, the mobo has to come to mount this, and mine came out. Here's a partial video of the way it goes in the case.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbNKNkLxCpk

You didn't lie, just didn't know the price went back up and no problems. Yes I know this very well, I've installed many aftermarket fans and heatsinks and luckily a lot of cases have holes on the back like mine, but the hole on the back of mine cuts off the access a little bit so I would probably have to take the Mobo out anyways, my CPU is using it's stock cooler but instead of the original heat transfer paste I applied Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound to help a little bit.
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April 29, 2012 4:35:48 PM

Lonestar, to start with, I know very little about building computers. I'm one of those old guys that never had that option as a young man. They didn't have any! lol
But, I used to live in West Texas, and I know the climate can be brutal, and let's not even talk about the sandstorms.
All that plays hard on a computer. But, while some Phenoms do run on the warm side, the 960t does not. It's only 95w, not the
125w like most of the other models. And, I am still learning the right way to overclock, so's not to burn it up. I'm using the Turbo Evo software to kick the cpu up. This cpu has 6 cores, 2 of which are locked, and with the right mbo, like our's, it opens the latent cores up, for most people with this cpu. Not always, for everyone, but most. I was going to buy the FX also, either 4100 or 6100, but after looking at alot of reviews and tests done on the new bulldozers, I went with the Phenom, tried and true, 960t, and it's been great. I got it, winning an Ebay bid, for $85.00. Not bad for a new 6 core processor.
Anyway, where your at, heat is always a big factor. The ambient temps are over the top on most days. Come summer, your going to cook, and your cpu will fry without a room ac. I found a few on Craigs list for about $50.00. Used, but that's ok. They work great. A 5000 btu would be plenty for any single room.
The Kuhler 620 does indeed come with some kind of oil in it. You never touch it though. The unit is sealed, and filled already. You don't have to do anything but install it. It's easy, even though I paid a shop to do it for me, it was a very cheap heat fix, and yes, it drops the mobo temps right along with the cpu temps.

The Kuhler people did alot of testing on the best way to set this up. To put the fan on the back of the radiator and blow warm air out, or have it on the front of the radiator and blow the cool air in and over all the other components, and then exhaust out the top and front. They tried adding a second fan to the front, and had it sucking warm air in, and having the second fan behind the radiator blowing warm air out. The overall winner for best temps was by having the fan behind the radiator, blowing in and over the other parts and going out the front. I have mine blowing out the back as my case has no front vents.
But, just to drop the temps even more, with summer coming, and me wanting to overclock more, I'm adding a second fan. If you do get one, ask Antec for 4 extra mounting bolts. You will need them to add a second fan. The fan that comes with the radiator and pump is 120 mm and very quiet, but no leds. As I have a window case, I want the second fan to have color. I emailed Antec and their mailing me 4 of the long bolts,FREE OF CHARGE, to mount the second fan to the front of the radiator. The radiator already had holes drilled just for this.
So, if I was you, I would get this cooler, with a second fan, for those long hot Texas summers, and incredible sandstorms. (That are so fast that they can actually bury a guy under a few inches of sand while napping on a couch, if he forgot to close the front door, just sayin)
My temps are real good now, and I can't even hear this thing running, just a very low, soothing hum, nice. Again, check the user reviews on Newegg. There's no reason to add another fan or standard cpu cooler when this unit will cool everything, by removing most of the case heat along with the cpu heat. For the price, and the quality, it's untouchable.
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a b V Motherboard
April 29, 2012 4:38:06 PM

Actually, water cooling is not that bad. I've had my system water cooled for about a year and a half and never had any problems with leaks but I am Extremely careful with it. You just have to make sure that, when you open it up for maintenence, you don't have anything plugged in to the wall. That's a major headache sometimes. If you get a self contained kit, such as the Corsair Hydro series, there's a lot less hassle and no maintenance. In your situation, I would consider water cooling because your room temp can't be easily controlled.

The Caveat is that it can get very expensive. When you add up the cost of all of the parts necessary, you can end up spending more on the water cooling system than you spend on the actual computer, especially if you want to cool everything.

One of the local shops where I live, built a computer inside a fishtank and cooled it with mineral oil (it's non-conductive). They even hooked up an air pump with an air curtain bubbler in front of the motherboard. It was really cool.

One thing you should probbly consider as an alternative to water cooling would be a better CPU cooler. Those stock coolers work fine but they really aren't intended for the heavy loads created by many games. You could pick up a good quality CPU cooler for under fifty bucks that would drop your CPU temps by 5-10 degrees C. One of the better ones is this for $30: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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April 29, 2012 4:54:36 PM

JK,
This is my first liquid cooler, but as far as I know, there is no additional cost for anything. The unit is pre-filled and sealed, so I'm not aware of any more costs for anything. The cost to drop my temps, on the motherboard and the cpu by 10
degrees celcius was $60.00. There's no maintence to do other then keep the dust off the radiator and fan(s).
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April 29, 2012 5:09:42 PM

Here's the story on the Kuhler 620 from the Antec site, it states there is no maintenece needed.
The Antec KÜHLER H₂O 620 delivers high-performance liquid cooling for your CPU in a quick, easy-to-install package. Unlike traditional liquid cooling systems, this self-contained unit comes prefilled and requires no maintenance. The voltage-controlled 120 mm fan and 3rd generation copper coldplate ensure efficient cooling, while the estimated 50,000 hour pump lifetime means this cooler is even likely to outlast the system it cools. Lastly, easy-bend flexible tubing allows the KÜHLER H₂O 620 to be installed in nearly any orientation. Take your PC's Quiet Computing™ to the next level with liquid cooling performance at a price that rivals aftermarket air coolers
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a c 143 V Motherboard
a b Ĉ ASUS
April 29, 2012 9:19:51 PM

case look good but i will do a dust cleaning for the fan and even to the south bridge and northbidge,you be suprise to see how much dust get betweeen those blue fins on them even the cpu one
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April 30, 2012 1:46:03 AM

Robspace1 said:
Lonestar, to start with, I know very little about building computers. I'm one of those old guys that never had that option as a young man. They didn't have any! lol
But, I used to live in West Texas, and I know the climate can be brutal, and let's not even talk about the sandstorms.
All that plays hard on a computer. But, while some Phenoms do run on the warm side, the 960t does not. It's only 95w, not the
125w like most of the other models. And, I am still learning the right way to overclock, so's not to burn it up. I'm using the Turbo Evo software to kick the cpu up. This cpu has 6 cores, 2 of which are locked, and with the right mbo, like our's, it opens the latent cores up, for most people with this cpu. Not always, for everyone, but most. I was going to buy the FX also, either 4100 or 6100, but after looking at alot of reviews and tests done on the new bulldozers, I went with the Phenom, tried and true, 960t, and it's been great. I got it, winning an Ebay bid, for $85.00. Not bad for a new 6 core processor.
Anyway, where your at, heat is always a big factor. The ambient temps are over the top on most days. Come summer, your going to cook, and your cpu will fry without a room ac. I found a few on Craigs list for about $50.00. Used, but that's ok. They work great. A 5000 btu would be plenty for any single room.
The Kuhler 620 does indeed come with some kind of oil in it. You never touch it though. The unit is sealed, and filled already. You don't have to do anything but install it. It's easy, even though I paid a shop to do it for me, it was a very cheap heat fix, and yes, it drops the mobo temps right along with the cpu temps.

The Kuhler people did alot of testing on the best way to set this up. To put the fan on the back of the radiator and blow warm air out, or have it on the front of the radiator and blow the cool air in and over all the other components, and then exhaust out the top and front. They tried adding a second fan to the front, and had it sucking warm air in, and having the second fan behind the radiator blowing warm air out. The overall winner for best temps was by having the fan behind the radiator, blowing in and over the other parts and going out the front. I have mine blowing out the back as my case has no front vents.
But, just to drop the temps even more, with summer coming, and me wanting to overclock more, I'm adding a second fan. If you do get one, ask Antec for 4 extra mounting bolts. You will need them to add a second fan. The fan that comes with the radiator and pump is 120 mm and very quiet, but no leds. As I have a window case, I want the second fan to have color. I emailed Antec and their mailing me 4 of the long bolts,FREE OF CHARGE, to mount the second fan to the front of the radiator. The radiator already had holes drilled just for this.
So, if I was you, I would get this cooler, with a second fan, for those long hot Texas summers, and incredible sandstorms. (That are so fast that they can actually bury a guy under a few inches of sand while napping on a couch, if he forgot to close the front door, just sayin)
My temps are real good now, and I can't even hear this thing running, just a very low, soothing hum, nice. Again, check the user reviews on Newegg. There's no reason to add another fan or standard cpu cooler when this unit will cool everything, by removing most of the case heat along with the cpu heat. For the price, and the quality, it's untouchable.


I've been building computers since about the age of six or so starting with scrap parts and building them into a new PC to boot and even though I'm only seventeen, I'm also an auto mechanic, so the reason for always using fahrenheit over celcius is for that reason, we always measure the temp of a car with fahrenheit.
My CPU is also a 95w and a 32nm design, so really they are about the same, just a different architecture and some new abilities, I was actually going to purchase the same CPU you have but I kept hearing they get hot so I decided not to as I was going to use this PC for really heavy gaming, 3D design and while mapping and learning C++, so it was a clear choice for me and so far it hasn't let me down, only the Mobo has in terms of heat even though it stated it could be ran without being cooled. :/ 
Well I live in the High Deserts of California and I gotta say it does get hot but the house usually stays 60F-80F as this area is very windy, but it's so modernized now there isn't much of a way for sand storms to form since it's mostly city and buildings. I agree that the Antec is a great choice, I'd have to save up, my favorite thing about it though is how low profile the cooler itself is, it allows for MUCH better airflow of the inductors around the CPU and since I already have a 140MM exhaust fan, all I need are the brackets for the radiator and bam even more cooling, yeah, pointing a rear fan in is a big no no, the reason being is that the heat rises and the air behind the PC is usually hotter than the front or sides and all that does is causes hot air to flow past the devices on the Mobo, learned my lesson the hard way with an old Pentium 4, those things get REALLY hot.

JKatwyopc said:
Actually, water cooling is not that bad. I've had my system water cooled for about a year and a half and never had any problems with leaks but I am Extremely careful with it. You just have to make sure that, when you open it up for maintenence, you don't have anything plugged in to the wall. That's a major headache sometimes. If you get a self contained kit, such as the Corsair Hydro series, there's a lot less hassle and no maintenance. In your situation, I would consider water cooling because your room temp can't be easily controlled.

The Caveat is that it can get very expensive. When you add up the cost of all of the parts necessary, you can end up spending more on the water cooling system than you spend on the actual computer, especially if you want to cool everything.

One of the local shops where I live, built a computer inside a fishtank and cooled it with mineral oil (it's non-conductive). They even hooked up an air pump with an air curtain bubbler in front of the motherboard. It was really cool.

One thing you should probbly consider as an alternative to water cooling would be a better CPU cooler. Those stock coolers work fine but they really aren't intended for the heavy loads created by many games. You could pick up a good quality CPU cooler for under fifty bucks that would drop your CPU temps by 5-10 degrees C. One of the better ones is this for $30: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


Yes, I agree, I love the idea of water cooling, just never really got into it, didn't think I would have to because all the devices I had bought for this Mobo were purchased specifically for how cool they run, specially the Mobo itself, but it seems I don't have a choice, and I was actually looking at the Cooler master Hyper 212+ as an aftermarket cooler but why spend the money if water cooling is only a tiny bit more? Plus it's the Mobo getting hot, more than likely the SB OR possibly the Inductors by the RAM as they do get pretty hot. Yeah, I unplug it from the wall and hit the power switch on the PSU as well and make sure to drain the power, the nice thing about this Mobo is that it has Anti-Surge and short protection as well. I'm going to go with water cooling, it should also decrease the sound my fans make as well, as it is right now my PC is louder than my floor fan. >:| Thanks to the CPU and 60MM exhaust fan, they both hit over 4000RPM max and the 140MM stays just about 850RPM and all the 230MM fans stay at 800RPM but are controlled by the case itself using a power dial LED color changing button, not the Mobo. I remember when they first started doing the fishtank computers using mineral oil, a few even had plastic fish. :lol: 

Robspace1 said:
JK,
This is my first liquid cooler, but as far as I know, there is no additional cost for anything. The unit is pre-filled and sealed, so I'm not aware of any more costs for anything. The cost to drop my temps, on the motherboard and the cpu by 10
degrees celcius was $60.00. There's no maintence to do other then keep the dust off the radiator and fan(s).


That's not a bad drop in temps, plus not having all that extra crap in the case (CPU heatsink) means more room for the air to flow around and it's nice that Antec would send those brackets free of charge, not many places would have the common courtesy to do so.

Robspace1 said:
Here's the story on the Kuhler 620 from the Antec site, it states there is no maintenece needed.
The Antec KÜHLER H₂O 620 delivers high-performance liquid cooling for your CPU in a quick, easy-to-install package. Unlike traditional liquid cooling systems, this self-contained unit comes prefilled and requires no maintenance. The voltage-controlled 120 mm fan and 3rd generation copper coldplate ensure efficient cooling, while the estimated 50,000 hour pump lifetime means this cooler is even likely to outlast the system it cools. Lastly, easy-bend flexible tubing allows the KÜHLER H₂O 620 to be installed in nearly any orientation. Take your PC's Quiet Computing™ to the next level with liquid cooling performance at a price that rivals aftermarket air coolers


That cooler is now on my list, now I play the waiting game, hopefully that cooler solves my problems, I'd really like to not have to worry about my PC getting too hot specially considering the kind of money I shelled out for it. Newegg page is now bookmarked.

scout_03 said:
case look good but i will do a dust cleaning for the fan and even to the south bridge and northbidge,you be suprise to see how much dust get betweeen those blue fins on them even the cpu one


Well, it's a little dusty right now as I haven't cleaned it in a while, but even when clean and dusted out thoroughly the Mobo still overheats the same. I use an air compressor with a Vacula air chuck to blow all the dust out of it, off the cables, heatsinks, fans, GPU, RAM and even the case itself on the outside just to make it look like new. ;) 
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April 30, 2012 2:32:32 AM

I was thinking, by the name Lonestar, and the fact your in a dry hot climate, you were taling Texas. Well, glad to hear it's Cal. I grew up there, and no matter how hot it get's in Sacramento in July, Texas is much hotter everyday.
Yea, I'm really liking this motherboard with all the features. But, using the Turbo V Evo software, I'm not able to overclock more then 3.7 gh. But, I think I need to learn the whole process via the bios so I can forget the Asus overclocking software. I've heard it's not too good. And this cpu just begs to be overclocked! Most have them at 4 ghz.
Your 140mm fan won't fit on the radiator. It fits 120mm fans only. Antec sent me the 4 bolts to add the second fan, but no bracket. But, I just needed the bolts, and then just mount fan#2 to the front. And yes, blowing warm air across the computer components sounds like a bad idea, but they showed it was the best way to cool the entire cpu, and and everything else in the case. To blow the air out the front gave lower temps then out the rear with this unit, and that's with the one fan that's included, which really puts out alot of air and quietly.
But, as I don't have anyplace for the air to go in the front, it's going out the back and top. I don't know where I found that test that Kuhler did, but it's out there. It showed a 3-4 degree difference when it was blown out front. Sounds nuts, but it's true. Good luck, your going to love this thing. It's super quiet, and works really good.
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April 30, 2012 4:00:23 AM

Lonestar,
Just so you can get an idea of the temps using this Kuhler cpu cooler, I just played Call Of Duty Black Ops for an hour, and my cpu went from 35c to 40c., and my mobo went from 30c to 35c. Now, it would all be even cooler if I had it running just 4 cores, instead of 6, and if it was not overclocked. But, those are still good temps. My ambient temp is around 75f. right now.
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April 30, 2012 4:19:54 AM

Robspace1 said:
I was thinking, by the name Lonestar, and the fact your in a dry hot climate, you were taling Texas. Well, glad to hear it's Cal. I grew up there, and no matter how hot it get's in Sacramento in July, Texas is much hotter everyday.
Yea, I'm really liking this motherboard with all the features. But, using the Turbo V Evo software, I'm not able to overclock more then 3.7 gh. But, I think I need to learn the whole process via the bios so I can forget the Asus overclocking software. I've heard it's not too good. And this cpu just begs to be overclocked! Most have them at 4 ghz.
Your 140mm fan won't fit on the radiator. It fits 120mm fans only. Antec sent me the 4 bolts to add the second fan, but no bracket. But, I just needed the bolts, and then just mount fan#2 to the front. And yes, blowing warm air across the computer components sounds like a bad idea, but they showed it was the best way to cool the entire cpu, and and everything else in the case. To blow the air out the front gave lower temps then out the rear with this unit, and that's with the one fan that's included, which really puts out alot of air and quietly.
But, as I don't have anyplace for the air to go in the front, it's going out the back and top. I don't know where I found that test that Kuhler did, but it's out there. It showed a 3-4 degree difference when it was blown out front. Sounds nuts, but it's true. Good luck, your going to love this thing. It's super quiet, and works really good.


A lot of people say that same exact thing, thinking I'm from Texas because of my username and yeah, I gotta agree, it may get hot here, but I feel bad for Texas, Nevada and Arizona. The overclocking features in the BIOS are the best I've seen by far, I haven't seen any BIOs with more options to overclock than this one, there's also a profile manager in BIOS that allows you to store OC settings, you should REALLY update the BIOS on that Mobo before OC'ing through them because you lose your settings when you update and the new update solved a lot of game compatibility problems for me because of the onboard graphics and increases stability, which would be great for you since you overclock so much, you can actually go to 4GHz and higher in the BIOS from what I was testing and have seen many Phenoms at 4.2GHz as that seems to be the most stable before getting too hot. My exhaust fan could be a 120MM but I'm pretty sure it said it was a 140MM, if that's so then that means that radiator may not fit in my case, might be too small unless it's JUST the size of the fan they're talking about, luckily it comes with some mounts for the radiator, it should still fit when I purchase it, if not i could always return it and find another one.

Robspace1 said:
Lonestar,
Just so you can get an idea of the temps using this Kuhler cpu cooler, I just played Call Of Duty Black Ops for an hour, and my cpu went from 35c to 40c., and my mobo went from 30c to 35c. Now, it would all be even cooler if I had it running just 4 cores, instead of 6, and if it was not overclocked. But, those are still good temps. My ambient temp is around 75f. right now.


Wow, that is impressive, what was your room temp? Also, might I ask your age? i'm interested in seeing what the age base is around Black Ops as a multitude of people I know of all ages play Black Ops, but anyone 30-40 and up prefer Black Ops and don't really like Modern Warfare, I rather like both but black ops drops into my top favorite, then COD4 being the first to start the more futuristic warfare and being one of the most impressively realistic FPS of it's time.
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April 30, 2012 6:06:39 AM

This is the first time I've played any of the games in that series. My age is 62, but people think I'm about 50. I am a retired musician/trucker, and have only been using computers for about 8 years. Like I said, they weren't around when I was in school. Now, I have a 5 year old grandaughter that plays games on my computer when she's here. They teach kids her age in pre-school, which is amazing.

As far as the fan, it is the same size as the radiator. It's 120mm. The radiator does extend slightly above the top of the fan, but the fan screws into the radiator and the case. I have a smaller size, mid size case, and I was worried it would not fit, but if you can fit a 140mm fan on the back, then you can fir this easy.

The fan is only 1"wide, and the same with the radiator. So, if you have 2" from the back, out, and if you have 5" from top to bottom, and about 4.5" width, it will fit. In other words, if your 140mm fan fits, so will this. Just figure it's 2"thick from the back of the case , outward. The pump is small and does not block anything. I was going to get a regualr fan cooler, but as you know, there's very little room between the cpu and the ram. This fits easy.
And, your right, this board comes with some really amazing software. Once, I figure out how to safely overclock, I'm taking this cpu up. Right now, I'm playing it safe and using just the Asus software. I do use the included update program that came with this. So, it is updated bios. I just don't know what I'm doing in the bios. This cpu can be overclocked easy, if you know how. I'm in the learning stage.
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May 1, 2012 5:40:39 AM

And, again, I just got done playing CODBOs, for nearly 2 hours and the temps were 44c. on the cpu, and 34c. on the mobo. This game has solid action, and if this Kuhler can keep things this cool with just the one exhaust fan and two other case fans, running this fast action game, then it should be fine for anything.
This cooler is new to me, so I'm still testing it, and I'm really impressed with the performance so far.
I also just bought the Antec Truepower 750w. psu, and it's also working great and staying cool. I'm sold on Antec products. The components I bought are made really good. You know when you have stuff thats made good and not flimsy, like so many other company's sell. This company makes great stuff, and stands behind it. Too bad they don't make other parts like cpus and mobos. O' and my room temp (my ambient temp) is around 75f.
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May 1, 2012 6:15:38 AM

Robspace1 said:
This is the first time I've played any of the games in that series. My age is 62, but people think I'm about 50. I am a retired musician/trucker, and have only been using computers for about 8 years. Like I said, they weren't around when I was in school. Now, I have a 5 year old grandaughter that plays games on my computer when she's here. They teach kids her age in pre-school, which is amazing.

As far as the fan, it is the same size as the radiator. It's 120mm. The radiator does extend slightly above the top of the fan, but the fan screws into the radiator and the case. I have a smaller size, mid size case, and I was worried it would not fit, but if you can fit a 140mm fan on the back, then you can fir this easy.

The fan is only 1"wide, and the same with the radiator. So, if you have 2" from the back, out, and if you have 5" from top to bottom, and about 4.5" width, it will fit. In other words, if your 140mm fan fits, so will this. Just figure it's 2"thick from the back of the case , outward. The pump is small and does not block anything. I was going to get a regualr fan cooler, but as you know, there's very little room between the cpu and the ram. This fits easy.
And, your right, this board comes with some really amazing software. Once, I figure out how to safely overclock, I'm taking this cpu up. Right now, I'm playing it safe and using just the Asus software. I do use the included update program that came with this. So, it is updated bios. I just don't know what I'm doing in the bios. This cpu can be overclocked easy, if you know how. I'm in the learning stage.


Glad to see that you're still playing games, my man and nice, my Dad used to be a trucker as well. I also looked at the rear fan, it is a 140mm but the case has two screw sets, one for 140mm and the other for 120mm, so that cooler will fit perfectly, and I'll be picking it up fairly soon, probably sometime mid May as this heat issue takes a toll on my future career. Wow, teaching kids about computers at the age of five? Amazing, though I doubt they'll be having any classes about the ins and outs of computers instead of just teaching children how to use them.

Robspace1 said:
And, again, I just got done playing CODBOs, for nearly 2 hours and the temps were 44c. on the cpu, and 34c. on the mobo. This game has solid action, and if this Kuhler can keep things this cool with just the one exhaust fan and two other case fans, running this fast action game, then it should be fine for anything.
This cooler is new to me, so I'm still testing it, and I'm really impressed with the performance so far.
I also just bought the Antec Truepower 750w. psu, and it's also working great and staying cool. I'm sold on Antec products. The components I bought are made really good. You know when you have stuff thats made good and not flimsy, like so many other company's sell. This company makes great stuff, and stands behind it. Too bad they don't make other parts like cpus and mobos. O' and my room temp (my ambient temp) is around 75f.


Those are the temps I get when playing without liquid cooling, if my temps drop 10C-20C then that will literally blow me away and I have an extra fan to use on the other side of the radiator, so it'll be even cooler. I am psyched and waiting patiently until I can get that cooler. I agree, I do indeed love Antec as well, I've had several small fans from them and still do in storage somewhere that still work after years of use, though right now I have a Thermaltake TR2 850W in my PC and all the fans I'm running in my case are Thermaltake's except for the two small fans on my RAM, CPU fan and the small Foxconn 60mm exhaust fan and all of those mentioned products are very sturdy and all backed by three to five year warranties, the same reason I'm hooked on AMD products, I've never had a problem with them though I have always wanted to try out a ASUS AMD GPU at some point and an XFX, as I still have an original 256MB XFX Nvidia GeForce 8800GTS that still works flawlessly stored away but as for now I'm sticking to Sapphire because of how well built the Mainboards are on them, the copper cooling tubes and the expensive capacitors, I really wish now that I had gotten the 6890 FLEX instead as it has two fans and 2GBs of GDDR5, it's also the same size as the 6870.
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May 1, 2012 6:59:29 AM

I'm finally going to spend the dough and upgrade to Windows 7, on Thursday, from XP. I just had 8 gigs of G.Skill put in, and Xp only uses 3 of it. So, I have 7 gigs just sitting there. I'm hoping the switch to 64 bit will even more speed. Also, right now, I'm running the graphics that came with this board, the Radeon 4250. It's not a bad card for low end applications and games, and I have played Fear3, and a few others, so far with the settings on medium. But, I had to lower and/or turn off everything in the graphics to run COD. I had to lower the screen res.
So, my next card will be coming in a few months. I don't need to spend a fortune, but I want a decent Nvidia. It's too bad the Crossfire X uses such low end cards. I was wanting to try using that setup, but I can't see getting to cheap cards to run together. I've been told, it's much better to just use one good one, so I'm going with Nvidia. My old system, that I just replaced, lasted 7 years! I had it custom built with Amd 3500+cpu, and the Radeon hd 3850 card. It was AGP. That was/is a great card in it's day. It was still working great when I upgraded a few months ago. It lasted about 5 years. Now, I'm no power gamer, so that's probably why it made it so long. But, it was good for what it was. I don't know yet, which card I want next.

My current temps, right now, at idle, with all 6 cores running, and overclocking to 4.7 ghz, and Turbo evo on, is cpu-34c,mobo31c. It would be about 3 points less if I turned off the TPU and Coreunlocker and ran 4 cores. But, thats a good temp. This cpu, is good up to about 62c or so. It dosen't shut down until 70c, so I've got alot of room to play around.
Did you find the little switches on this mobo? The TPU and Coreunlocker? The red leds are a little annoying. I wish they would go out when the powers off, but they don't. Also, there's another red led on the board. It stays on if theres a problem with the ram.So far, it goes out when I start up.
Well, that 4100 doesen't have any locked cores to it right? Glad your case has the room. Did you measure top to bottom and out? Figure 5 inches, top to bottom, which is a little more then a 120mm fan. Thats the radiator height. The fan itself is identical to any other 120mm fan, in size. And 4.5 wide, and 2 inches from the back of the case out, towards the front. I an adding a second fan to mine in a few days. I want a red led. The radiator has no color. It's black and I like lights. So, it will also be nice to have more air being sucked out the back. If you buy from Antec, be sure to ask for 4 extra bolts to mount that second fan. Regular fan screws won't work. You need the long bolts they have to go all the way through your fan and into the front of the radiator. The holes are there already. Why they don't just provide the extra bolts when they ship these, makes no sense as most people will want to add their own second fan.
Also, people have asked if both fans can plug in together, or into the same input as the other fan and raiator, and no you can't do that.
I also just bought 2 Thermaltake fans. Small 80mm, blue led. One's working fine. Nice and quiet. The other one was bad. The 3 wires came off where they are soldered on. Bad solder job. Newegg gave me credit and told me to just toss it.
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May 2, 2012 2:50:25 AM

Robspace1 said:
I'm finally going to spend the dough and upgrade to Windows 7, on Thursday, from XP. I just had 8 gigs of G.Skill put in, and Xp only uses 3 of it. So, I have 7 gigs just sitting there. I'm hoping the switch to 64 bit will even more speed. Also, right now, I'm running the graphics that came with this board, the Radeon 4250. It's not a bad card for low end applications and games, and I have played Fear3, and a few others, so far with the settings on medium. But, I had to lower and/or turn off everything in the graphics to run COD. I had to lower the screen res.
So, my next card will be coming in a few months. I don't need to spend a fortune, but I want a decent Nvidia. It's too bad the Crossfire X uses such low end cards. I was wanting to try using that setup, but I can't see getting to cheap cards to run together. I've been told, it's much better to just use one good one, so I'm going with Nvidia. My old system, that I just replaced, lasted 7 years! I had it custom built with Amd 3500+cpu, and the Radeon hd 3850 card. It was AGP. That was/is a great card in it's day. It was still working great when I upgraded a few months ago. It lasted about 5 years. Now, I'm no power gamer, so that's probably why it made it so long. But, it was good for what it was. I don't know yet, which card I want next.

My current temps, right now, at idle, with all 6 cores running, and overclocking to 4.7 ghz, and Turbo evo on, is cpu-34c,mobo31c. It would be about 3 points less if I turned off the TPU and Coreunlocker and ran 4 cores. But, thats a good temp. This cpu, is good up to about 62c or so. It dosen't shut down until 70c, so I've got alot of room to play around.
Did you find the little switches on this mobo? The TPU and Coreunlocker? The red leds are a little annoying. I wish they would go out when the powers off, but they don't. Also, there's another red led on the board. It stays on if theres a problem with the ram.So far, it goes out when I start up.
Well, that 4100 doesen't have any locked cores to it right? Glad your case has the room. Did you measure top to bottom and out? Figure 5 inches, top to bottom, which is a little more then a 120mm fan. Thats the radiator height. The fan itself is identical to any other 120mm fan, in size. And 4.5 wide, and 2 inches from the back of the case out, towards the front. I an adding a second fan to mine in a few days. I want a red led. The radiator has no color. It's black and I like lights. So, it will also be nice to have more air being sucked out the back. If you buy from Antec, be sure to ask for 4 extra bolts to mount that second fan. Regular fan screws won't work. You need the long bolts they have to go all the way through your fan and into the front of the radiator. The holes are there already. Why they don't just provide the extra bolts when they ship these, makes no sense as most people will want to add their own second fan.
Also, people have asked if both fans can plug in together, or into the same input as the other fan and raiator, and no you can't do that.
I also just bought 2 Thermaltake fans. Small 80mm, blue led. One's working fine. Nice and quiet. The other one was bad. The 3 wires came off where they are soldered on. Bad solder job. Newegg gave me credit and told me to just toss it.


I thought you were already running Windows 7, if you aren't you really should and if I might add, dual boot XP and Windows 7, it's always best to have a backup and x64 does actually help a bit with speed as the CPU isn't having to do x32 calculations and another thign about Windows 7 is that it uses Direct X 10 & 11 which makes games look better and Windows 7 is a lot like XP, there isn't really a learning curve besides some things were moved around like certain options in the Control Panel plus Windows 7 also uses GPU acceleration to speed up the OS so the Theme isn't taking away from the CPU. I haven't used the 4200 on the board but if you get an AMD GPU instead of an Nvidia you could do GPU Boost with Hybrid Grossfire which uses part of the IGP to speed up Graphics Processing, also, what do you mean by Crossfire X uses cheap cards? I have a 6870 with Crossfire X enabled so I can run two of them if I want to and my GPU is not cheap, but it is better to use a single GPU than multiple for a few reasons, one being that most applications don't support two including some games, a lot of added heat and a lot more power consumption. I recommend getting either a GeForce 460 GTX or any series AMD HD Radeon 6000 or if you want a card that will play even next generations games very well get an AMD HD Radeon 7000 series preferably the 7950 or 7970 since they have better cooling, XFX makes great GeForce's and Sapphire makes great Radeon's. Yeah, most series of Phenom's usually shut down around 65C but it's hard to get it that hot. Yes I have seen both switches, I have no use for the Core Unlocker as my CPU is naturally Unlocked and even the BIOS says no locked cores, MemOK is a great feature of this Mobo as well though I shut off TPU as it tries to Auto Clock my CPU and I don't want my CPU over or underclocked. You might have a bad RAM configuration, my Red LED only comes on for a second at boot to test itself then shuts off but I do have a constant green LED to show power to the Mobo but that's it, did you put each stick of RAM in a blue RAM slot? Unless you have TPU set to on, then that might be the red LED, but if you clock that thing yourself you don't really need TPU on but it's not hurting anything being on so it's probably best to just leave it on.
I have plenty of room in my case, specially right where the exhaust fan is and I agree, for some reason, adding lights to a case just makes it look a lot better. That's a shame, I've never had a problem with any of the Thermaltake products I've had, but I guess it's bound to happen every once in a while like my old Gigabyte i7 Mobo, I was going to build a PC running an i7 but the pins were bent when I received it and decided to wait on building a PC until I had the money for all the components and decided on building an AMD strictly powered PC. Well, most Mobo's have about three, three pin fan plug ins on the board, since you take the exhaust fan out and the CPU heatsink and fan out that leaves you with two more fan plug slots to power both exhaust fans.
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May 2, 2012 3:25:02 AM

Lonestar, I hate to tell ya bud, but that card you have, will not work in the Hybrid Crossfire X configuration. It will work by itself but not in Crossfire. This is not true Crossfire but Hybrid. Here is a list, from AMD on the cards that will work, and they are all low end, cheapies-
Dear Customer,
Your service request : SR #{ticketno:[8200242264]} has been reviewed and updated.
Response and Service Request History:
Hybrid CrossFireX support is limited to select low end HD2K and HD3K series cards and some integrated 3200 chipset motherboards.
4200 chipset motherboards and HD4K series cards are not yet supported in Hybrid CrossFireX setups.
The link below is for the CrossFire Combination Options Chart and should be helpful in selecting CrossFire video card and chipset combinations.
So it's strange, and people are complaing about the false advertising. They state right on the box that this will work, in Crossfire. They must have printed the box info, THEN installed the graphics. But the 4250 won't work, and neither will all but the lowend cards, as stated by the company rep.

As for the red lights. When you have the core unlock switch on , the red led stays on, and it's supposed to, same with the tpu switch. I can turn them off, but it will lose the settings. It's ok, it's just a small red glow. Now, if the ram warning light stays on, then I have a problem. So, before you go buy another card thinking it will work in Crossfire, remember to make sure it will work. This is the reason I'm going with one good Nvidia rather then two cheap Radeon cards. This is Hybrid Crossfire X, which is different then regular Crossfire. But, for now, you need to downgrade to use it. I'll see if I can find another article on this for ya.
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May 2, 2012 3:32:20 AM

.The ATI Hybrid Graphics technology, is a collective brand from AMD for its Radeon line of discrete and integrated GPU, promoting higher performance and productivity while saving energy consumption in GPUs. The technology currently applies to selected chipsets of the AMD 700 chipset series and AMD 800 chipset series only. The ATI Hybrid Graphics technology was announced on January 23, 2008 with Radeon HD 2400 series and Radeon HD 3400 series video cards supporting hybrid graphics functionality. Originally, ATI announced this feature would only be supported in Vista, but in August 2008 they included support in their Windows XP drivers as well[1]. The architecture has been patented by ATI.[2] Right now the latest generation of Hybrid Crossfire pairs an 890GX or 880G (Radeon HD4290 and HD 4250 respectively) motherboards from the AMD 800 series chipset with an HD 5450 Radeon video card from the HD 5000 Series

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May 8, 2012 10:15:33 PM

Robspace1 said:
Lonestar, I hate to tell ya bud, but that card you have, will not work in the Hybrid Crossfire X configuration. It will work by itself but not in Crossfire. This is not true Crossfire but Hybrid. Here is a list, from AMD on the cards that will work, and they are all low end, cheapies-
Dear Customer,
Your service request : SR #{ticketno:[8200242264]} has been reviewed and updated.
Response and Service Request History:
Hybrid CrossFireX support is limited to select low end HD2K and HD3K series cards and some integrated 3200 chipset motherboards.
4200 chipset motherboards and HD4K series cards are not yet supported in Hybrid CrossFireX setups.
The link below is for the CrossFire Combination Options Chart and should be helpful in selecting CrossFire video card and chipset combinations.
So it's strange, and people are complaing about the false advertising. They state right on the box that this will work, in Crossfire. They must have printed the box info, THEN installed the graphics. But the 4250 won't work, and neither will all but the lowend cards, as stated by the company rep.

As for the red lights. When you have the core unlock switch on , the red led stays on, and it's supposed to, same with the tpu switch. I can turn them off, but it will lose the settings. It's ok, it's just a small red glow. Now, if the ram warning light stays on, then I have a problem. So, before you go buy another card thinking it will work in Crossfire, remember to make sure it will work. This is the reason I'm going with one good Nvidia rather then two cheap Radeon cards. This is Hybrid Crossfire X, which is different then regular Crossfire. But, for now, you need to downgrade to use it. I'll see if I can find another article on this for ya.


Oh yes, I know Hybrid Crossfire won't work on newer cards because of the new Architecture, I'd rather Crossfire X my 6870 at some point with an identical one, as for Crossfire X, take a look at this: http://sites.amd.com/PublishingImages/Public/Graphic_Illustrations/WebBannerJPEG/AMD_CrossfireX_Chart_1618W.jpg that graph shows all card series that can use Crossfire X and which cards each card supports in a Crossfire setup. Also, I thought you meant that your MemOK light was staying on, my bad.

Robspace1 said:
.The ATI Hybrid Graphics technology, is a collective brand from AMD for its Radeon line of discrete and integrated GPU, promoting higher performance and productivity while saving energy consumption in GPUs. The technology currently applies to selected chipsets of the AMD 700 chipset series and AMD 800 chipset series only. The ATI Hybrid Graphics technology was announced on January 23, 2008 with Radeon HD 2400 series and Radeon HD 3400 series video cards supporting hybrid graphics functionality. Originally, ATI announced this feature would only be supported in Vista, but in August 2008 they included support in their Windows XP drivers as well[1]. The architecture has been patented by ATI.[2] Right now the latest generation of Hybrid Crossfire pairs an 890GX or 880G (Radeon HD4290 and HD 4250 respectively) motherboards from the AMD 800 series chipset with an HD 5450 Radeon video card from the HD 5000 Series


The reason for this is probably because new cards use a different architecture and are now 32nm, I actually do have a Sapphire Radeon HD 5570 in another computer but even then it would be slower in comparison to just my single 6870.
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May 9, 2012 6:20:04 PM

I wrote to Asus and got this reply:
Response and Service Request History:

I'll give you the list of discrete graphics cards that should work with the HD4250 Integrated Graphics do to "Hybrid Crossfire", and then I'm going to tell you do NOT purchase any of them.

The best I can get from our website is that an HD5450, HD5550, HD5570, and HD5670 will work to do Hybrid Crossfire with an 890G and 890FX chipsets. Those chipsets use the same HD4250 graphics of the 880G, so it should be the same.

I am going to tell you to NOT do Hybrid Crossfire, because it is a waste of money and effort. You need to ask yourself why you're trying to do Hybrid Crossfire. Is it for gaming, and/or better performance? If so, get yourself a single, faster graphics card from the HD6000 series or HD7000 series. It's simpler, and cleaner. All those cards above are TWO generations old now.

Any type of Crossfire requires a bit of processing power to do it, so you take a bit of a hit, and then hope the combined Crossfire processing power is great enough to overcome that, and be a big enough boost to make it all worth it. I'm suggesting it isn't.


In order to update this service request, please respond, leaving the service request reference intact.

Best regards,

Marc
AMD Global Customer Care

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May 9, 2012 10:56:27 PM

Lonestar,
You may be able to help me with this, as I'm still learning alot. OK, yesterday, I finally made the jump from XP32bit to Windows 7 64 bit. Like I said before, I just had 8 gigs of ram put in, and now it's using all 8, which is great. I'm still getting everything setup, as far as the right drivers etc. But, when I opened the Asus Update mobo program that came with this board, and try to flash the bios, it's not working. It worked fine in 32 bit, but not 64. So, I went to the Asus support and got the new bios update for this board. I put it on the desktop, and used Asus Update to flash the bios from the desktop. It worked, and was fine until I rebooted and got a message asking if I want to reset the bios to default.
In short, it would not boot to Windows without entering bios. So, why is 64 bit not working like the 32 bit did to update the bios with this M5a88 v evo mobo. I may have to email Asus and find out the right way to do this. Did you have this problem updating this boards bios? I know your running Win 7, is it 64 bit? If so, have you tried flashing the bios yet with this board?

Also, I put in the second 120 fan on the Kuhler 620. I got one with red leds. It looks great up against the black radiator. The temp has dropped maybe 2 degrees C., which don't sound like much, but every bit helps. I have it sucking the warm air, then after going through the radiator, the other, stock fan from Antec, blows it out the back.
The stock Antec fan that came with the cooler is really a good fan. It spins real fast and is super quiet. Actually, I can't hear either fan running, just the real low, peaceful hum of the Kuhler. And, I did get the 4 extra screws from Antec. I also found the same ones at the hardware store. So, if you buy this cooler, as you said, you should go ahead and go to the Antec support site and request 4 extra screws for the second fan. Why they don't just ship with the Kuhler 620, I don't understand, as most people will want to add the second fan. If you have a window case,I do, then you really should add a fan with leds. The radiator is black and adding some color in front of it, makes for a nice looking case.
Looks like I'll just get a really good graphics card, and forget all about doing the Hybrid Crossfire X. After seeing what the people at Asus have to say about that setup, has me convinced that whoever came up with that idea should be sent packing! Why would anyone want to add second cheap, junk $30.00 graphics card to the 4250? Makes no sense and Asus even says so, which is really nice and honest for them to do. I mean, nobody would add a $30.00 card and expect to play any games, dumb idea.
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May 10, 2012 8:02:18 PM

Robspace1 said:
Lonestar,
You may be able to help me with this, as I'm still learning alot. OK, yesterday, I finally made the jump from XP32bit to Windows 7 64 bit. Like I said before, I just had 8 gigs of ram put in, and now it's using all 8, which is great. I'm still getting everything setup, as far as the right drivers etc. But, when I opened the Asus Update mobo program that came with this board, and try to flash the bios, it's not working. It worked fine in 32 bit, but not 64. So, I went to the Asus support and got the new bios update for this board. I put it on the desktop, and used Asus Update to flash the bios from the desktop. It worked, and was fine until I rebooted and got a message asking if I want to reset the bios to default.
In short, it would not boot to Windows without entering bios. So, why is 64 bit not working like the 32 bit did to update the bios with this M5a88 v evo mobo. I may have to email Asus and find out the right way to do this. Did you have this problem updating this boards bios? I know your running Win 7, is it 64 bit? If so, have you tried flashing the bios yet with this board?

Also, I put in the second 120 fan on the Kuhler 620. I got one with red leds. It looks great up against the black radiator. The temp has dropped maybe 2 degrees C., which don't sound like much, but every bit helps. I have it sucking the warm air, then after going through the radiator, the other, stock fan from Antec, blows it out the back.
The stock Antec fan that came with the cooler is really a good fan. It spins real fast and is super quiet. Actually, I can't hear either fan running, just the real low, peaceful hum of the Kuhler. And, I did get the 4 extra screws from Antec. I also found the same ones at the hardware store. So, if you buy this cooler, as you said, you should go ahead and go to the Antec support site and request 4 extra screws for the second fan. Why they don't just ship with the Kuhler 620, I don't understand, as most people will want to add the second fan. If you have a window case,I do, then you really should add a fan with leds. The radiator is black and adding some color in front of it, makes for a nice looking case.
Looks like I'll just get a really good graphics card, and forget all about doing the Hybrid Crossfire X. After seeing what the people at Asus have to say about that setup, has me convinced that whoever came up with that idea should be sent packing! Why would anyone want to add second cheap, junk $30.00 graphics card to the 4250? Makes no sense and Asus even says so, which is really nice and honest for them to do. I mean, nobody would add a $30.00 card and expect to play any games, dumb idea.


Sure, I have no problem helping. If you look around everyone says DO NOT update the BIOS using the update tool, instead use EZ Flash. If Windows won't load, you should probably switch back to your default BIOS if you haven't yet, then download this: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/SocketAM3+/M5A88-V_EVO/M5A88-V-EVO-ASUS-1202.zip it's the newest BIOS version for our Mobo from the ASUS website, I've already updated the BIOS on mine twice using EZ Flash with no problems at all. Put the BIOS update file on the root of a flash drive reboot your PC and enter EZ Flash from the BIOS boot screen, from there it's pretty simple, you just select the media in which the update is on then select the update and EZ Flash does the rest for you, might I add that this BIOS update fixes a lot stability and compatibility issues with some games and applications.
I also agree, Hybrid Crossfire is a really bland idea, I guess it's just for people who either have a compatible card already or just want a cheap solution for some soft core gaming. However Crossfire X with two 6800 series GPU's would be amazing and would satisfy anyone's need for raw gaming performance, not to mention with a liquid cooler you could probably push the FX 4100 to about 4.6GHz before it starts to get hot if not even more, though I'm not sure about the Phenom considering it gets a bit more hot. Hopefully following my little guide helps you with your BIOS predicament and thank God for backup BIOS. :D 
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May 10, 2012 11:31:01 PM

I did update the bios to the newest version, which is 1202, from 3-16-12. I have it installed now, and working, and I did it using the Asus Update tool. But, I had to do it the way another person said, and it worked. The tool itself won't work with the 64 bit, but if you download the new file, and put it on the desktop, then open the Asus Update program, and tell it where the new file is, it will load it.
It worked just fine. I have never used the EZFlash, but it sounds like alot more steps involved, like having to put the file on a disk, or some other removable storage to transfer it. Doing it this way, you don't even need to open up bios or burn a disk. Why Asus does not fix this, I don't get. How come their Update does not work with 64 bit? It worked fine with the 32 bit.

Well, I just added one more fan. I wanted one more 80mm, for the lower part of the case. It's brought the temps down a little more. The current idle temps are 33c for the cpu, and 28c for the mobo, with the room temp at 72f. That's with 1 intake, 2, inner case, and 3 exhaust fans going, and the Kuhler 620. I used Amd Overdrive to overclock to 3.7 ghz. It's running great with the new OS and 64 bit. Call Of Duty looks amazing, and even with this cheap 4250 running, it's doing a really decent job of keeping up. I'll be adding a real card next month.
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May 11, 2012 2:44:41 AM

Robspace1 said:
I did update the bios to the newest version, which is 1202, from 3-16-12. I have it installed now, and working, and I did it using the Asus Update tool. But, I had to do it the way another person said, and it worked. The tool itself won't work with the 64 bit, but if you download the new file, and put it on the desktop, then open the Asus Update program, and tell it where the new file is, it will load it.
It worked just fine. I have never used the EZFlash, but it sounds like alot more steps involved, like having to put the file on a disk, or some other removable storage to transfer it. Doing it this way, you don't even need to open up bios or burn a disk. Why Asus does not fix this, I don't get. How come their Update does not work with 64 bit? It worked fine with the 32 bit.

Well, I just added one more fan. I wanted one more 80mm, for the lower part of the case. It's brought the temps down a little more. The current idle temps are 33c for the cpu, and 28c for the mobo, with the room temp at 72f. That's with 1 intake, 2, inner case, and 3 exhaust fans going, and the Kuhler 620. I used Amd Overdrive to overclock to 3.7 ghz. It's running great with the new OS and 64 bit. Call Of Duty looks amazing, and even with this cheap 4250 running, it's doing a really decent job of keeping up. I'll be adding a real card next month.


Glad to hear you got it working, and actually I'm pretty sure you can just put the Update File on the root of your hard drive as well when you go to do the update through EZFlash, EZFlash is a part of the BIOS but is separate and has it's own menu. On the boot screen you use to go into BIOS or choose boot device you press ALT+F4 I believe to get to it then just choose update BIOS then choose the update file and hit yes, it's the safest way of updating the BIOS. The reason it probably doesn't work for 64-bit is probably because it's trying to tell the BIOS it's using a 32-bit CPU, as to why ASUS hasn't fixed it I have no idea, it's such a great tool and I would have used it but I heard people had some issues with it so I updated the old fashion way. ;) 

Is the new fan for exhaust or intake? Also, those temps sound a little high for idle (judging by my idle now which is about the same.), but it's probably because of the overclocking, you should also check the temp of your RAM as well, they will probably be pretty cool if you haven't overclocked them, though usually Mobo temps mean RAM temps, not always but commonly they are.
I just took my old PC that's running a 1.8GHz Sempron 3400+ Single Core, 1.5GB DDR2 RAM and an AMD Sapphire Radeon HD 5570, I overclocked the CPU to 2.4GHz stable with almost no temp increase and also increased the RAM clock but not by much, I will also overclock the 5570 and run some tests as it plays pretty much everything unless it's both CPU and GPU intensive like Crysis, it will run it great but starts to get slow because of the Physics memory leak the demo had, GRID plays pretty well until it starts getting really graphically intensive, like 28 vehicles and a huge detailed track then it starts to get pretty slow and I will be overclocking my main PC, the one this thread is based off, I'll try overclocking safely about 200MHz each time until I find a safe and fast clock, this PC doesn't need to be clocked but I just like overclocking, it's like a hobby. :p 
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May 11, 2012 3:19:16 AM

The fan I just put in is intake, but it's not really bringing in much fresh air, but more as a circulation fan. I have a window fan up above it, and it does have outside vents. This case, which I really like, as it's small enough to fit in my desk, under the overhead cabinets, and yet, it's big enough to fit any size graphics card and full size mobo. It's only 16" high, and I bought it 7 years ago, to fit this desk. It still looks good, and now, everything in it is brand new
All the components are less then a few months old. But, it has no front air vents, so I needed air to move more and now it does. I have two led fans that simply blow air from front to back, and up, towards the mobo. I have the 1 led intake fan on the window, and then 1 exhaust led fan at the top, as well as the 2, 120mm exhaust fans at the rear. All but the one Kuhler 120 fan have multi colors, and it's a nice light show. I made sure to get realy quiet fans and all I hear is the cooler.

The temps are really good. The normal idle temps for this cpu, which is Phenom Black 960T, with 6 cores unlocked, is in the mid 40s. That's with the stock fan. If you read the Newegg customer reviews on this cpu, it gets great ratings and stays cool.
Most people, running the stock cooler, are seeing 45-47c, and into the mid 50s when gaming. So, mine is running super cool now. I'm below 35c at idle, and about 38-40c gaming. The red line for this cpu is around 65c. It starts shutting down around 70c. So, depending on the air temp, it looks like about 10-12 degree drop from the stock cooler. Also, most people buy this cpu for one reason. It has 6 cores and it's easy to overclock. The cpu is a 6 core with 2 of the cores disabled. Most people, if lucky, can get the two extra cores to unlock, but, some don't.
But, it does raise the temps a tad to unlock the two extra cores and overclock. That's where the Kuhler comes in, and it's doing great, and this system is now a rocket! I can't believe the difference in performance. It's like going from a slugbug to a Vett. And, just think, I bought the cpu, new on Ebay for only $85.00! I won the bid. Not bad for 6 cores!

I was considering buying the Windows 7 from there too, but heard some real horror stories about bad activation codes and bootleg copies going for cheap, so I played it safe and plucked down big money for the real deal from Newegg. I don't shop much on Ebay, if ever. Too many pirates.
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May 11, 2012 4:43:50 AM

Robspace1 said:
The fan I just put in is intake, but it's not really bringing in much fresh air, but more as a circulation fan. I have a window fan up above it, and it does have outside vents. This case, which I really like, as it's small enough to fit in my desk, under the overhead cabinets, and yet, it's big enough to fit any size graphics card and full size mobo. It's only 16" high, and I bought it 7 years ago, to fit this desk. It still looks good, and now, everything in it is brand new
All the components are less then a few months old. But, it has no front air vents, so I needed air to move more and now it does. I have two led fans that simply blow air from front to back, and up, towards the mobo. I have the 1 led intake fan on the window, and then 1 exhaust led fan at the top, as well as the 2, 120mm exhaust fans at the rear. All but the one Kuhler 120 fan have multi colors, and it's a nice light show. I made sure to get realy quiet fans and all I hear is the cooler.

The temps are really good. The normal idle temps for this cpu, which is Phenom Black 960T, with 6 cores unlocked, is in the mid 40s. That's with the stock fan. If you read the Newegg customer reviews on this cpu, it gets great ratings and stays cool.
Most people, running the stock cooler, are seeing 45-47c, and into the mid 50s when gaming. So, mine is running super cool now. I'm below 35c at idle, and about 38-40c gaming. The red line for this cpu is around 65c. It starts shutting down around 70c. So, depending on the air temp, it looks like about 10-12 degree drop from the stock cooler. Also, most people buy this cpu for one reason. It has 6 cores and it's easy to overclock. The cpu is a 6 core with 2 of the cores disabled. Most people, if lucky, can get the two extra cores to unlock, but, some don't.
But, it does raise the temps a tad to unlock the two extra cores and overclock. That's where the Kuhler comes in, and it's doing great, and this system is now a rocket! I can't believe the difference in performance. It's like going from a slugbug to a Vett. And, just think, I bought the cpu, new on Ebay for only $85.00! I won the bid. Not bad for 6 cores!

I was considering buying the Windows 7 from there too, but heard some real horror stories about bad activation codes and bootleg copies going for cheap, so I played it safe and plucked down big money for the real deal from Newegg. I don't shop much on Ebay, if ever. Too many pirates.


It's a shame it doesn't have a front intake, pulls in much colder air from the front bottom.
Yes, I remember people always saying that, Phenom was probably AMD's best line of CPU's, next will be Bulldozer/FX. Even though Phenom's get a little hotter than normal CPU's I've almost never heard of big overheating issues with them, hell, my CPU doesn't overheat either, doesn't get anywhere NEAR the thermal shutdown temp, usually stays 20C-30C under it when gaming, it's just the Mobo/RAM Slot Inductors, I just thought it was a little weird you were getting those temps with a Liquid Cooler at idle, as my idle right now is lower with stock fan, but it could be due to not having a front intake fan, could be cycling warm air. I bought all my parts except for the RAM on Newegg as well, paid $110 for the CPU which wasn't bad considering that was one of the newest CPU's out at the time and one of the fastest and one of the best to overclock but I agree, you got a hell of a a deal on that CPU my friend as it's worth $125-$130 new, most people are trying to buy them up right now because they might be discontinued soon with the FX series as the successor which really sucks, I really liked the Phenom series, maybe they will make a new Phenom series.

Yes and thoroughly agreed, never buy software from Ebay, it's usually a scam, my copy of Windows 7 Pro x64 I got discounted because a friend of mine has a Microsoft College account when he was taking his Microsoft Certification.
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May 11, 2012 5:23:46 AM

Yea, I was going back and forth for weeks trying to decide on the Fx-4100 or one of the Phenom class cpus. I like the idea of getting the newest line when they come out, but, in this case, I heard too many mixed reviews on the Bulldozer, and they actually did alot worse in tests then expected. I looked at the 4100 vs. different Phenom Black editons, and the Phenoms did better in nearly every test

This 960t is basically the same as the Phenom 1090t, once all 6 cores are unlocked. So, I figure if I can gain 2 more cores for the same price as the 4 core 4100, and have the same performance, then I'd role the dice and hope to get one of the good ones that would unlock with the right mobo. I needed a new mobo anyway, so I replaced it all at the same time. That's one of the main reasons I got this board, was because it has core unlocker

But, until it was setup and I flicked the unlock switch on the board, I didn't know if I had just bought a 4 core or 6 core. It's a gamble, but even if it did not unlock, it's still well worth the $85.00 I spent! I mean how much is the FX 6100 6 core going for? I'm thinking that I'll keep this cpu for a year, and then get the newest 8 or 10 core FX or whatever they have. The FX 8150 is a brute! And it has a sweet price tag.

My case does have 2 front panels that come off, and there's empty space behind them, where another hard drive or burner goes. I was thinking about mounting one big 120mm fan there maybe. I'll wait to see what the summer temps look like

I was going to get an Antec case with front fans, but the case is too tall for my desk. So, I may have to modify this one to add another fan, if need be. But, right now, these temps are perfect. Comparing my numbers to other 960t owners, mine are great. To keep any Phenom in the 30c range is real good.
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May 15, 2012 4:39:48 AM

Robspace1 said:
Yea, I was going back and forth for weeks trying to decide on the Fx-4100 or one of the Phenom class cpus. I like the idea of getting the newest line when they come out, but, in this case, I heard too many mixed reviews on the Bulldozer, and they actually did alot worse in tests then expected. I looked at the 4100 vs. different Phenom Black editons, and the Phenoms did better in nearly every test

This 960t is basically the same as the Phenom 1090t, once all 6 cores are unlocked. So, I figure if I can gain 2 more cores for the same price as the 4 core 4100, and have the same performance, then I'd role the dice and hope to get one of the good ones that would unlock with the right mobo. I needed a new mobo anyway, so I replaced it all at the same time. That's one of the main reasons I got this board, was because it has core unlocker

But, until it was setup and I flicked the unlock switch on the board, I didn't know if I had just bought a 4 core or 6 core. It's a gamble, but even if it did not unlock, it's still well worth the $85.00 I spent! I mean how much is the FX 6100 6 core going for? I'm thinking that I'll keep this cpu for a year, and then get the newest 8 or 10 core FX or whatever they have. The FX 8150 is a brute! And it has a sweet price tag.

My case does have 2 front panels that come off, and there's empty space behind them, where another hard drive or burner goes. I was thinking about mounting one big 120mm fan there maybe. I'll wait to see what the summer temps look like

I was going to get an Antec case with front fans, but the case is too tall for my desk. So, I may have to modify this one to add another fan, if need be. But, right now, these temps are perfect. Comparing my numbers to other 960t owners, mine are great. To keep any Phenom in the 30c range is real good.


I agree, the 4100 did worse than the Phenom's but it wasn't because of the raw power or speed, these new Bulldozer series CPU's run a new Architecture that programs and applications haven't followed yet and not once has my 4100 bottlenecked and since it stays cooler than the Phenom series there's more room for OC'ing, I bet I could get this baby up to about 5GHz if not more if I clock it right and it should be a stable clock, if not I'll go to 4.6-8GHz and leave it there.
Ah yes, I've seen many people use the expansion bays for attaching more fans, on my case i can either use the big 120MM fan in the front or stick two 80MM fans in there using included mounts which would help with air flow considerably specially near the RAM, South Bridge and GPU.
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May 15, 2012 5:49:46 AM

Yea, I just may add a big 200 mm intake fan to the bottom of the case. This means drillng alot of holes in the bottom metal case. It's either that, or try to make the 80mm window fan bigger. But, the only problem there is trying to drill through the clear plexiglass window without it cracking. The older cases, like this one were not made with air good air flow in mind. But, 8 years ago, they never thought about how hot these new parts could get. I ran an Athlon 3500 in this case for nearly 7 years with no heat problems at all. It had the stock cpu cooler, and 1 intake and 2 exhaust fans. Now, I have the same case with all new, much faster cpu and 8 gigs of ram and a board that probably generates twice the heat as the old one. I have 2 intake fans 3 exhaust, and one for circulation, as well as the liquid cpu cooler and the Antec 750 psu fan. Thats alot of fans, and still I'd like to see it cooler. I'm trying to get the cpu down to the high 20c if possible, at idle. So far, it stays between 30-33c at idle.. I'm slowly learning how to overclock the right way, using the bios rather then the Asus software or Amd Overdrive program. When I use those, it's not stable and reverts back to the default settings.
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May 15, 2012 8:50:01 PM

Robspace1 said:
Yea, I just may add a big 200 mm intake fan to the bottom of the case. This means drillng alot of holes in the bottom metal case. It's either that, or try to make the 80mm window fan bigger. But, the only problem there is trying to drill through the clear plexiglass window without it cracking. The older cases, like this one were not made with air good air flow in mind. But, 8 years ago, they never thought about how hot these new parts could get. I ran an Athlon 3500 in this case for nearly 7 years with no heat problems at all. It had the stock cpu cooler, and 1 intake and 2 exhaust fans. Now, I have the same case with all new, much faster cpu and 8 gigs of ram and a board that probably generates twice the heat as the old one. I have 2 intake fans 3 exhaust, and one for circulation, as well as the liquid cpu cooler and the Antec 750 psu fan. Thats alot of fans, and still I'd like to see it cooler. I'm trying to get the cpu down to the high 20c if possible, at idle. So far, it stays between 30-33c at idle.. I'm slowly learning how to overclock the right way, using the bios rather then the Asus software or Amd Overdrive program. When I use those, it's not stable and reverts back to the default settings.


I'd hate to see you have to drill into the case, maybe you can simply get a bracket for under the disc drive if possible, I'm not sure what your case looks like so it's hard to come up with an idea such as trying to mount more fans. Yeah, that might be more harm than good drilling into the plexiglass, though I've never really had any problems when I used to work with it we did get the occasional crack even with careful drilling and press drilling it really didn't matter, it more matters the quality of the sheet you have as well and to drill as slow as possible, though I've had a lot more wood split than plexiglass cracking.
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May 20, 2012 9:44:59 AM

Scratch that, I had a really bad case of driver conflicting, some time after Catalyst 12.1 they ruined one of the updates, it installs a new driver along side the old one and does not remove it, this caused me many problems, many many problems, so I swapped my 6870 back into my case booted up into Safe Mode, ran Driver Cleaner and erased all existence of anything ATI, booted into Windows 7 regularly and let it install the newest drivers through Windows Update because Catalyst would not install, kept giving me errors about not finding an INF file or not being able to find the Detection Driver, which you get that error if your are running in Safe Mode, but the INF error just kept happening for no reason, all the files were there but it just did not want to install. But after that whole ordeal, I noticed better temps on the card idled at 40C, most people report anywhere from 42C to 46C and up on idle and I was able to play Dirt 3, TF2, GRID, Sniper Elite V2 and more in a room at 80F and the hottest it got after two hours of gaming was 61C, it went no higher.

I thank you guys for the help, but this case has been solved after some good old fashion debugging.
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