First build ever...?

Hi guys, I want to build a computer soon (in a month or so when we move into our new house finally), but it will be my first ever. I have owned 2 laptops before (Dell Studio and HP Envy) but apart from that I've never really played around with a desktop. It's not choosing the hardware I'm having an issue with, I'm just scared to buy $2000 worth of hardware and then stuff it up when I put it together, especially because I want it to look good too. And I also want custom loop wc cpu and gpu
So I guess what I'm asking is, is it difficult to build a computer from scratch? How did you go your first time? I'm quite good with my hands but I'm still a bit nervous.
Do you think I should just build the comp I want, or start off with something small and cheap? The problem with that is I would waste another few hundred bucks and I haven't got that much money to play around with.
What would you recommend I do?

Oh and sorry if I put this in the wrong section
21 answers Last reply
More about first build ever
  1. 99% of the worlds computers are assembled by people who are below average intelligence , can barely read , and earn about $20 a month .

    Are you smarter than them?
  2. haha that makes me feel much better.
  3. Outlander_04 said:
    99% of the worlds computers are assembled by people who are below average intelligence , can barely read , and earn about $20 a month .

    Are you smarter than them?

    Damn near wet myself. Well done, sir. +1
  4. If you go with a Sandy- or Ivy Bridge build, the only reason to have a WC setup is for extreme overclocking. They can get to 5.0GHz on air with a quality tower cooler (ie: Megahalems). About the only thing that needs water cooling these days is the HD 6990, and that's more for noise than temperature.
  5. Especially for first build ever, watercooling will wreck your components if its done wrong
  6. Haha ok I just wrote like 3 paragraphs explaining my situation but I'll try and some it up in 1. I don't need anything spectacular but I want to build a pc for the sake of building a pc, and so wc would make it so much more interesting. I could use a ps3 (which we will be getting as a family use) for all my gaming but I just think you have so much more freedom and better graphics on pcs. Now I don't know if I should get average performance with liquid cooling or high performance without wc and upgrade in a year or so (to wc).

    I think I'm going to get something like a i5-2300, gtx 460, 60GB SSD, 24" LED monitor and liquid cooling. Then upgrade the gpu and monitor so I can 3d game in maybe 2 years.

    God I hope that makes sense because I re-wrote it a few times so I'm not actually sure if it makes sense.
  7. If you can manage it, get an i5-2500k
  8. ^ I second. If you don't get a -k CPU, your watercooling is pointless because you won't be able to overclock. I think it's pointless with a Sandy Bridge CPU anyway, because quality air will get you to 5GHz, if the CPU allows. But, you want to, so I won't tell you not to.

    I will suggest, along with the i5-2500k CPU, a current generation GPU. Since you want to game (and you are correct that PC graphics are better), you will want at least a GTX 560 Ti or 1GB HD 6950 for 1080p resolution and high to max settings. If you want to game in 3D you will probably want a second card at that time. Buy high-end parts now so you don't have to replace them in a year or so when you want to do the wc loop. A decent wc setup is going to run you $500+, so that makes it an expensive undertaking, and it requires constant maintenance.

    Case consideration at this time is important also. Are your res and rad going to reside inside or outside of your case? What size radiator are you thinking of going with? Etc, etc. While you're not going to watercool at this time, these are important questions you need to ask yourself so you can get the proper case now.
  9. I was thinking of going with the Corsair 650D and mounting a dual 120mm rad and a single 200mm rad inside the case ( i know it will fit because it has been done before). I would like everything to be inside the case because I think it looks a lot better.

    But I am considering going with something like the Lian Li A04 (sff) instead and forget about watercooling and get like a 570 with i5-2500k. But yeh, I'm really not sure. The problem is, if I want to go 3d I have to spend A LOT more, for the gpu and monitor. Otherwise I could get a 560/570 and a 24" Full HD LED monitor for around $200.
  10. I think I should forget about watercooling for now and build a really nice pc when I'm older (and have more money).
  11. Aleckazee said:
    I think I should forget about watercooling for now and build a really nice pc when I'm older (and have more money).

    Well, I agree with forgetting about watercooling. But you can still build a really nice PC for around $1000 (or less) that will play everything maxed and be relevant for several years. What's your current budget?
  12. $2000 absolute max including monitor, keyboard, shipping etc. Oh and I'm from Australia so the prices will probably vary...
    Hows this?
    Case: $149 Lian Li PC-A04
    CPU: $219 Intel Core i5-2500k
    GPU: $379 Asus GeForce FTX570 1280mb overclocked
    SSD: $229 OCZ Vertex 2 120GB
    HDD $138 x2 500GB WD Caviar Black
    RAM $118 x2 G.Skill Ripjaws 1333MHz 7-7-7-24 1.5v (8GB total)
    MB: $165 Asus P8P67-M Pro B3
    PSU $119 XFX Core Edition Pro 650W (Is that enough?)

    CPU Cooler $109 Noctua NH-C14 (any other recommendations?)
    Fans $87 x3 Noctua NF-S12B FLX 120mm (x2 front intake, x1 top exhaust)
    Monitor $199 ASUS 23.6" LED 300cd/m 10m:1, 2ms
    Keyboard $19 Gigabyte GK-K7100

    All that totals $1930 aud, not including shipping

    Buying it all from here:

    I could get the price down by getting a 60GB SSD, different RAM and maybe a 560 instead.
  13. I'd go for the NH-D14 instead of C14 if you can
  14. Not sure if it will fit in the Lian Li A04 case but I think it should
  15. also, it doesn't say it supports 1155 socket...?
  16. it does! 1155 socket is the same as 1156 as far as cpu coolers go
  17. Couple questions/comments....

    1. Are you going to put those WD drives in RAID 0? If not, get a single SATA II 1TB drive.

    2. Buy a 2x4GB set for the RAM. They will be tested to ensure stability. This can't be guaranteed if you mix-n-match, even from the same brand with the same listed specs.

    3. That PSU is plenty for one card, but I would recommend a 750 watt unit if you plan to SLi later.

    4. Three fans for almost $90. That effectively makes your case cost $240. You can't find one for less that offers good stock cooling? The HAF 922 ($129 or $139 w/ window) will work fine without the need for extra fans.

    5. The Thermaltake Frio is $75 and will take you to within about 95% of the performance of a Noctua NH D-14
  18. 1. yes I will put them in RAID 0
    2. should I go for 2x4 or 4x2 so I get 8GB? (Currently on my envy I have 4GB and there have been a couple times I needed more)
    3. Probably won't SLI, but if I find a 750w for not much more then I'll get it
    4. The reason I wanted to get those fans is because I want my pc to be quiet, what about these? According to the specs they blow 90CFM at 19dBA spinning at 2000rpm.

    5. From what I've read, there is only 160mm clearance from the motherboard to the side panel in the Lian Li A04, the Frio is 165mm so it won't fit.
  19. Here's a few answers, assuming you haven't ordered yet. Sorry for the long delay, I've been dealing with flooding for a week or so...

    2. 2x4GB is the way to go. If you need more, you can easy double it.
    3. that makes sense
    4 & 5. I still think you could do better for a case. The HAF series cases are almost silent and they have room for a large cooler. Perhaps you might want to look at the Silverstone Raven build quality and silent.
  20. I reccomend the Raven rv02-e (must get the E!) or Raven rv03 also
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