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New Build ... No video on boot up

Last response: in Systems
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May 22, 2011 8:14:22 PM

Listing specs first, but skip to "Symptoms" and "Tried" if better for you. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

CPU - Intel Core i7 950 Processor BX80601950 - 3.06GHz, 8MB L3 Cache, 4.8GT/s QPI, HyperThreading, Quad Core, Bloomfield, LGA 1366

MBO - MSI X58M Motherboard - Model MS-7593, Intel X58, LGA 1366, micro ATX, PCI Express 2.0, CrossFire Ready, SLI Ready, Gigabit LAN, Firewire (S/N:601-7593-050B1101102041)

CASE - Cooler Master HAF 922M ATX Black Mid-Tower Case - 5 External 5.25" Drive Bays, 5 Internal 3.5" Drive Bays, 2 200mm Fans, 1 120mm Fan

Video - EVGA 012-P3-1573-AR GeForce GTX 570 HD SuperClocked Video Card - 1280MB, GDDR5, PCI-Express 2.0 (x16), Dual DVI, HDMI, DisplayPort, Overclocked, DirectX 11, Dual-Slot, SLI Ready (SN 1110611573000909)

RAM - Corsair CMX12GX3M3A2000C9 XMS3 Tri Channel 12GB PC16000 DDR3 Memory - 2000MHz, 3x4096MB, 1.65 volt.

PS - Cooler Master RS850-AMBAJ3-US Silent Pro M 850W Power Supply - ATX, Modular, 850 Watt, 80+ Bronze Certified, SLI, 135mm Ultra Silent Fan
Main HD - Western Digital WD1002FAEX Caviar Black Hard Drive - 1TB, 7200RPM, 64MB, SATA 6G

DVD - LG Super Multi DVD Rewriter 24X SATA

Symptoms:
• No video at all. No beeps.
• All fans turn on including CPU, video, power and case fans.
• DVD RW opens, closes and spins.
• Power on switch starts fans and lights, but HDD only flashes red very briefly. Power light does not come on.
• MB LED lights indicate CPU is in 6 phase power mode. (I have no idea what this means. Just quoting the manual.)
• Memory Warning LED is not red as it would be if memory was installed incorrectly, i.e., memory is installed correctly.


Tried:
• Checked front panel wiring carefully. Seems correct per directions.
• Checked all wiring - MBO, CPU, HDD, DVD RW
• Checked and re-installed CPU and fan.
• Replaced new video card with one know to work on a similar MBO. Did not work in the new setup.
• Double-checked to confirm placement of 3*4096MB on MBO as per instructions.
• Minimum hardware run test ... only video and CPU. Same result.
• Cleared CMOS settings and returned to pins 1 and 2
• Confirmed CPU compatibility on MSI MBO website
• Confirmed Corsair memory listed above is compatible with MBO on Corsair website
• Confirmed video is compatible with MBO/CPU combination on EVGA website

More about : build video boot

Best solution

a c 122 B Homebuilt system
May 22, 2011 8:27:34 PM

Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.
The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
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a b B Homebuilt system
May 22, 2011 9:06:43 PM

Here's some of the one's that have caught me:

1. Forgot to connect CPU (4 pin ATX or 8 pin EPS)

2. Used splitter to control push-pull CPU fan and it was wired correctly.

3. Monitor OSD (on screen display) was set to something other than what I used to connect.
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May 22, 2011 11:46:25 PM

JackNaylorPE said:
Here's some of the one's that have caught me:

1. Forgot to connect CPU (4 pin ATX or 8 pin EPS)

2. Used splitter to control push-pull CPU fan and it was wired correctly.

3. Monitor OSD (on screen display) was set to something other than what I used to connect.


Jack. I wanted to thank you for taking the time to make these suggestions. Were not the problem this particular time, but thanks anyway! =) Problem was a short on an extra standoff pin. Separate note on that.
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May 22, 2011 11:46:46 PM

Best answer selected by devilunchained.
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May 22, 2011 11:56:24 PM

2317496,2,125307 said:
Work systematically through our standard checklist and troubleshooting thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-read-postin...
I mean work through, not just read over it. We spent a lot of time on this. It should find most of the problems.

If not, continue.
The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.[/quotemsg

JSP ... Apologies on not spotting the great checklist prepared on this very subject. And thanks for calling it to my attention. Problem solved. It was a standoff pin that was labelled by the case manual as ATX-mini, but not used by the motherboard. I put in all the standoffs and then screwed in the MB. I remembered seeing that one standoff was not used, but it never occurred to me that it could short out the board. When removed ... instant and successful boot! What a relief! Rapture did come after all! =) Thanks again.
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