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New build wont post

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June 3, 2011 11:49:48 PM

First off, hello everyone. Been a long time reader of this site; just never posted in the forums before.I have built several computer systems so I have expertise, but this build just leaves me puzzled. I have been following the advice over at this post. I haven't done all the steps yet, but heres what I have so far:

Here's what its doing. I hit the power button and the system powers up (all the case fans, psu fan, and cpu fan come on). It stays on for about 3 seconds before shutting down. About 3 or 4 seconds later it attempts to boot again. This continues until I shut the power off to the system. It shuts off so soon that I don't really know if its trying to post or not, but I see absolutely nothing on the screen, so I suspect its not even getting that far.

1) Yes
2) Yes
3) Yes
4) Yes
5) Yes
6) Yes - tried both sticks individually
7) Yes
8) Yes - didn't know some were different but my mobo uses dimms 1 and 3 and slot 1 starts the closest to the cpu
9) Yes
10) As far as I know. This was my first Intel build and I had never used the LGA before, but I carefully followed the directions to make sure I did it right.
11) How do I tell if the motherboard pins are bent? They are so tiny...
12) I applied a tiny amount of the included thermal paste on the center of the cpu
13) Yes
14) Not using stock
15) No
16) Yes
17) Didn't come with one, but I had one that I installed. No beeps at all.
18) I've tried the front panel plugs facing all ways possible. My mobo has a power button directly on it and still wont post with front panel stuff completely off
19) Yes
20) Yes
21) Yes
22) I haven't tried this yet
23) Done this 3 times.

Here is the hardware:
MSI Z68A-GD80
i7-2600k
2 x 4GB G.Skill PC 1600 DDR3 @ 8-8-8-24
Zalman CNPS 11X CPU cooler
Corsair HX 750W PSU
Intel 320 series SSD 120GB
WD 640GB Caviar Black 32MB cache HDD

I still have some things to test, like trying with just 1 HDD, removing the DVD-RW drive, disconnecting the USB headers, trying the onboard video... The PSU and video card have been sitting in my old computer for a month while I assembled the rest of the parts, so I know they work, but I do have an 8600 GT I can try as well if I need too....

I'll post back when I have tried some more things, but in the meantime I'd love to hear some of y'alls ideas.

More about : build wont post

June 4, 2011 12:44:59 AM

Have you tried breadboarding yet? Have you run MemTest86+?
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June 4, 2011 2:20:44 AM

Quote:
Have you tried breadboarding yet?


I've been tinkering with the stupid thing all day and decided to take a break and watch a movie after I posted this. I'm about to try a couple more things (like use onboard video) and then breadboarding if that doesn't work. I'll post the results of that either later tonight or tomorrow morning depending on when I get that done.

Quote:
Have you run MemTest86+?


I can't get that far... its not that it just fails to post and just sits there at a blank screen... the power cuts out after about 3 seconds. It wont boot from HDD or CD.

I'll post updates as I test more tonight/tomorrow.
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June 4, 2011 2:49:12 AM

Ok... so I have now tried disconnecting one by one both hard drives, the dvd-rw drive, removed the video card and switched to on board video. The only things plugged into the motherboard now are the bare essentials, though I suppose I should use just 1 stick of ram just in case. I guess the next step though is to pull the motherboard out and see if it will run outside the case.

Also, just for completeness's sake, here is a short video clip of exactly what the computer is doing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ur0bmqf82fw
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June 4, 2011 3:15:19 AM

I pulled the motherboard out and it is now sitting on the box it came in, and the only thing plugged into it is the cpu and power supply and I'm still getting the same result. I just noticed that the speaker I have has a loose wire and I think it may be trying to beep but my speaker is messed up. The speaker is kinda old, so I think I'm gonna go get me a speaker in the morning and see if there are any beep codes to listen to...
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June 4, 2011 3:59:47 AM

OK. You have been through the checklist. Once you get a working system speaker, continue.

The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboardi...

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=yout...

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
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June 4, 2011 2:40:56 PM

Well, I was about to go out and buy a speaker, but I just happened to find one right before I left. Apparently my new case came with one (I got the HAF 922). Anyway, I'm not getting any beeps at all. I'm thinking its the motherboard.

I can't tell if any pins are bent, because they are so small and I have issues getting my eyes to focus on them. There is a little section that looks funny to me, but like I said before I have never built an Intel system that uses LGA before, so I don't know if it's normal or not. I'll try to explain what it looks like.

When looking at the socket, near the top right (when oriented the same way it would be in a case) there is a small upside down L shape that stands out from the rest of the pins. However, the pins themselves look fine (I think). What seems to be slightly out of place is the little diagonal metal stripes on the bottom of the socket in-between the pins. They seem to be at a slightly different angle, or sticking up a little or something.

Anyway, I think I've done all I can do with it. I work at a small computer shop and I should be able to take the board in and test it there. I've just been trying to do what I can myself first because the technicians (I work on the sales floor) don't get paid to work on employees computers because employees get free service and its commission based. So everyone hates it when you bring in a computer to be worked on.
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June 4, 2011 4:12:06 PM

When looking at the bottom of the CPU to see if each "landing" has a mark on it from the pins on the motherboard, like what is mentioned in this thread, I see a small number of landings that have no markings, does this mean I have bent pins?

How common is it for a motherboard to ship with bent pins? Do you think Newegg will RMA it if that's the case? I remember reading in their return policy that physical damage isn't covered under their return policy. Should I bother with Newegg or should I try and go straight through MSI?
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June 7, 2011 5:24:59 PM

Were you able to test the PSU? If so, what were the voltage readings?

The poster DM in the linked thread certianly raises a good question; however, his theory isn't indictative of a bad CPU. However, if the voltages from the PSU are within tolerance; you've cleared CMOS; ensured there are no shorts; worked through the checklist; breadboarded, and still nothing, then I would seek an RMA for the mobo. If the problem persists after the mobo has been replaced, seek an RMA for the CPU.

In regards to warranty, the physical damage clause pertains to you damaging the item, for instance, mishandling the mobo while installing, or trying to force your RAM in with the incorrect orientation. If the board is shipped to you with damage (remember, it's sealed, so Newegg has no idea or control) then you can return the defective product.

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